Slap

This is also wrong.. " 6th the inlet cam gets retarded a tiny bit because it doesnt do much compared to the exausht cam gear but a little bit will help the head flow quicker by (i think increased valve overlap) also helping cooling, reducing compression slightly and allowing a speedy passage to the turbine and boost should build quicker ." As i ment less overlap but mixed them up.

Thats fine you dont have to be involved. The only nonsense would be the possibilities of the jittering belt cause i am unsure of that. Thanks though for being reasonable to me now.

Well its 45 minutes of aussies by the looks. Id watch it if i wasnt on mobile data.

I thinks he liked it.

There is events. They are poorly advertised and rarely are they supported by the goverment. Also yes there is some cheap events just not enough aimed at your average joe blow that cant afford $60 for entry. I have 10 kids man it cost an arm and a leg just to feed em the day not to mention the fuel cause usualy somehow they are always miles away bahaha. Lots of dirt stuff out here in gippy not much for burnouts and drift. So im up for 150 food 100-200 fuel 60 entry. Minimum. Or leave my family out it and go myself making it seem an exersise of greed causing guilt leading to me not going and maybe soloing cheap local naughty. 30 bucks. I also dont see much amature road drift either. Street or mountains. I think targa is the only realy big one.

Sorry i should have explained better but rushed. 1st i cant change the cars setup atm because i need to get some lifters after the rebuild its had. 2nd i have done it the correct way you say about setting the timming. 3rd i set my idle to 850 even if i wasnt ment to.(loved 850 rpm) 4th i did mean manual corection of the cas and then was explaining that the flame front will jet power the turbine due to the exauhst valve advance inturn the o2 will read richer because the fuel hasnt fully burnt as it was released earlier also the exausht temp indicator may come on if its to much - wich means that then it will need to either be spark advanced or fuel reduced to correct the flame front enough that the o2 and the exauhst temps are good or even both. Meaning: less fuel used at idle Quicker more powerfull spool up with hard hitting midrange rpm torque and good top and bottom end power. Weapon! 5th the inlet cam causes a lil belt jitter i say because now the belt will have less tension between the cam gears i believe. (Maybe?) 6th the inlet cam gets retarded a tiny bit because it doesnt do much compared to the exausht cam gear but a little bit will help the head flow quicker by (i think increased valve overlap) also helping cooling, reducing compression slightly and allowing a speedy passage to the turbine and boost should build quicker . 7th i have the safc wired up so i can watch airflow and i can change it. I cannot monitor the throttle atm but it was fine when i could before i boost refrenced the throttle load axis. I will try to keep things short and sweet from now on as that was a fair bit for one post just to try clarify And by the way the car ran sweet af until i got drunk and let a young bloke do a skid and he pinged it and held it flat past 9500 rpm in fisrt on a down hill(wanker). Oil starved and spun a bearing wich ive rebuilt the motor and now waiting for cash for lifters.

But now like someone said earlier the car may not be droping back to an idle map because maybe it cant cope on it or get the car down to it. And geebs im not sure if you guys are trying to confuse me. 1 moment you say it can to an extent then say no you cant. If i set it locked to the 15 with tps off and then reset my ecu why does it now say 30 tps on. And do it again over a few times. I have also tried running both advance and underadvance on the cas only to see it back at 30° on the light again. Tell me what i have done wrong?

That is similar to what i thpught... i thnk. So to clarify. I see 30° from the light this is total/absolute timing? Does this mean if im at 15 ° crank then the ecu is adding 15° to make it show as 30°? Lets get trickier just to spice up the mix now we can see a few things I advance my exauhst cam 7° and retard my inlet 2-3°.... we know the inlet wont impact timing much exept a bit of extra jitter.... the exausht cam will now have advanced the cas 7°... cas needs correction....flame front to turbine with rich 02 sensor now raising the exauhst temps(light only stock)......now the ecu has to correct its tune by 7° to the zorst valves and o2 how?

Anyone catch the ACA hoon crack down on tv tonigh? How was that smashed up black car. He was lucky to get out of it ok. Couldnt tell for sure what type of car it was. They were only ever gonna hurt themselves in the middle of no where. The goverment needs to create drift functionability ahahaha. I mean make some dedicated hoon playgrounds. For farks sake look at the summernats. Its so big now because they dont hold enough events or atleast advertise them. If it wasnt a once or twice a year prestige events i might be able to afford it 9nce in a while. Especialy if the events are held more often more local . Wich i believe if the goverment help funded people would take up the opurtunity to be a part of something big , legal and a possible carrer oppurtunities everywhere in an industry that hides its potential well. Careful careful hoons. Dont trust a you tube streamer bahahaha. Heres a pic of how i feel when i dont do the biggest skids.

So by reseting the idle timing to 15° as far as the ecu sees... Does this mean the ecu ads 0 ° advance now? What is the max advance it can go? Whats the max it can retard? Where should it be ~ at idle? What should i see on the light at the crank marks? Thanks

[emoji106]

I cant see the pics

Pics

Ok the thing is dosepipe. I know that. I just couldnt get across that i cant and havent - and i have volts. I remember reading that it was useless but id already wires it up. The wires seem correct pins 23 and 24. Off white almost cream wires as in the pic. Geebs i havent dove in there for a while hecticly taped and messy. Needs a tidy up. Ahahaha dont get sus i know theres wires everywhere i did most of em , and i just broke one with the tape lol. Easy fix. Former owner did safc as standard install with gtr injectors when i bought it back in 2013. Ok for e85 hahaha. There is also some hacking from b4 2. What is thar brown plug with all the wires. Is it to do with the wire shielding?

Thank you for being decent this post ben. I will check the pins again and will check the wires for any previous modifications. Yes terminology. Im not great with it and does me no favours when explaining to people who know the exact terms. Why i stated i wont be using it and that you guys are smart enough to decifer or re-correct me. I do remember reading about it back in the day. Just cant remember enough. Ill post back up the pins there on.

Sorry for the aggressive posts but im sick of being followed around on the forum and having smoke blown up my arse most posts i do.

Jump on to em. Cause if you get stuck using epoxy these guys are gonna molest us. [emoji23]

Hi leeroy. All ive done is wire the $2 volt display to the wires in the knock pins. They use a signal and have a positive and negative. Thanks for not being an asshole like some and actualy discussing it. I have not tested other sensors as they both were the same voltage. Althought i have seen one at 2.3 and one at 2.4.

Well if you werent a bunch of karnts trying to be so rightious that you do nothing but deliberately misinterpreting and manipulating what i say is my jargan is dif and my terms sometimes wrong... then i might understand you better. But most your logic is repeated because you cant answer my question. Timming well you did contradict yourself. Even if its adjusting it to save its life. My butchered 20det running 17psi safc hacked lasted 3 years of full on abuse before it spun a bearing at over 9000 rpm when oil control failed. Wich next you will say it cant hit that rpm on a stock ECU. Im going to keep it simple for you big headed farks that think your shit dont stink. 1stly. How obvious is it that i could get a nistune second hand cheaper than from you dosepipe? 2ndly why is there voltage of 2.4 on my knock sensor wires at the ecu and lower with better fuel? 3rdly answer the questions and stop trying to confuse me more with your bullshit repeating. 4thly stop taking my experience and saying it couldnt happen as it did does and will continue. 5thly you probably think you know more than you actualy do or it wouldnt have been so poorly explained that the trhead has a bazzillion posts saying the same shid. 6thly just end the thread by answering correctly or dont try to answer it. 7thly i could not be farked trying to make you understand me any more as all your concerned about is me understanding you. 8thly easy question. Same as the 2nd. Why do the wires show voltage?

So why do i have 2.4 v on the display?

Pfft . Im not a dumb karnt yet you have repeatedly treated me as one. Saying shid like "the thing you didnt know..." omg mate dont you think its pretty obvious that you can set parrameters on the programable ecu. Still unexplained is what the voltage reading is! I understand filters to an extent i have set up stereos and used the safc as an fcd. I have interpreted what was said earlier and what i read in the article i posted earlier as follows. Sound to power to ecu. Even stated by the article as volts but sadly unaccepted by you as volts because the terminology is frequency because thats how its read and not the intended purpose of the signal. Do you think that .3v can power the knock sensor signal? So in turn i see it so far as a current of 2.4v~ manipulated into a freguency via (audio) this manipulation changes the amplitude of the current as fast as the sensor inputs it (the amps of the electrical current?) Can be shown in a complex wave in an audio wave analyzer. Knock can then be determined by the ecu. ??" i see volts as thats what type of display im using" The wire needs a current to carry the signal. An unpowered mic dosnt work well when listening very carfully. 0.3v has to be amplified or somthing for knock to be distinguished by the ecu. 2.4 v is about central of a standard sensor. 50% up 50% down. Why i believe it to be the base line of the frequency as voltage and as you said less noise less signal. (5v sensor at 2.4 v can handle amps for twice as much voltage as the powered audio line is running. Powering and amplifying the small signal into a larger signal to be decoded at the ecu. And allowing for 2.4v at (x) amps enough movement either up or down when in a wave. If the amps of the current are pulse waves will it actualy impact the voltage reading as its a voltage display not an amp metter. Can you reprogram the filters on a nistune? You just told me it cant add timming and on the other hand repeatedly contradicted yourself straight after with the idle control valve. Wich i also thought the stepper mottor was only for marm up and some are even wax valve. Once warm my car sits very close to 850 rpm where i set it and if i turn the safc up and down at the 1000 rpm it does impact on the car. It does not try to drop lower in rpm by itself to get to 650-700rpm. No i wont use the correct terminology as skidlines are a hobby not a job. But thank you when you do use it respectively.

So wouldnt the wave frequency be represented as voltage when on a voltage display? (Regardless of whether it can be read) And as i asked... It lowers because of engine noise. These filters inside the ecu how do they filter it? I thought it was by applying a frequency limit to what is detected ... is this the frequncy i see converted as its on a voltage display not an oscilloscope display. Wich i tried to explain is the resistance frequency shown as volts.(the filter) How sure are you that the ecu cant change the frequency its listening for or the filter? I know the sensor is set. But what when fuel differs. Re tune pfft hahaha I know the ecu has its presets. Its also programmed to run the car within certain parrametrs. Also the idle valve is a manual adjustment of air to the inlet more so whilst the throttle is shut. That impacts the maf , the rpm , the duty cycle, the o2 reading. If the timing is correct why would the ecu adjust it when stalling out only? What if the idle is to high will it lower it under 15°? So what about low compression motors lumpy af. Will it try to advance till they pop? Or will they have a way to stop... a limit of advance that it will use? Food for thought. Please dont explain the sensor again. Geebs im well past that. Its the conversion of whats there to what i have seen that i have been trying to get across and share. Im not trying to state facts about the ecu but do like to see them , just my beliefs and experience so others when in question of similar can find it. Please stop acting like i dont understand what you have said gts boy. It is almost obvious to any reader by now, and so is the missunderstanding of what you read of mine.

I beg to differ on that. If the crack is cleaned properly with some prepwash or similar and depending on how big it is... it may need some GOOD sealant in the crack first and an outer layer to stop exterior exposure of the epoxy. THE PLASTIC HASNT EXPLODED AND SOME EPOXY IS WAY TOUGHER. also it is a lot less detremental to the machine. He said he couldnt track a piece... no one responded. So i thought id help. Low and behold your here now doin the same shid again after giving me back handed courteous response earlier.

Yes a much better idea.What i dont get is you tell some one to start the car with ruber in the cylinder but god forbid you glue some plastic. [emoji16][emoji23] Exactly what i was talkin about in my ecu thread.

Without replacing it i think thats all that coul be done. It will one day leak again and or grenade off.