Slap

Gts boy thank you. except why would there even be a voltage if it was nothing. I understand they dont help. Why does my stock ecu change timing at idle? Wouldnt the voltage be that of the knock signal base line frequency voltage as engine noise frequency compensation is applied , along with the knock frequency that is unseen as a frequency as all it would do is change the amplitude of the voltage and its a voltage display. Why do they lower over time with better higher octane fuel?

Im not saying it will last but it will stop the leak temporary. Just clean and epoxy glue the bugger.

Clean it realy good at the leak and use some high temp epoxy. Once dry coat with a high temp sealant. You will need to expose the leak for a proper job or you can risk not doing that and hope it seals. Dont clean the inner side of the sensor. You should be able to fix it with out removal. Just MAYBE the wire cover where it joins.

I hope you can track one down. If you cant you may have to repair the sensor assuming the sensor function is still ok. It will require a good clean in the area that needs sealing and use something apropriate not just some glass silicon. Maybe some good epoxy and after a sealant of high temp chemical resistance over it. Treat it as a temporary and one day you may find what you need. Good luck.

The cover will come off with the belt on. Its the pulley and drive belts that are in the way. You may need a puller or to make one. Use the bolt holes on the pulley dont use a clasping puller.

This edit is good. And i understand about not wanting to post much , all i wanted is a discussion on the ecu and have had nothing but a hard time as some people (stalkers) that give me crap every post they can manipulate with there information into making me look bad instead of giving precise information and backing it up to show me where im 'confused' and or 'wrong' or 'wrongly understood'. Back to the discussion: What do the voltage readings i have represent and why do they lower with e85 over extended idle? And how much timing would i expect to see added by the ecu to the base crank timing of 15°? My 20det would always recorrect on the timming light back to 30°ish and it didnt matter the cas position wich would suggest to me that its 15° crank+ 15°~ ecu at idle. Thank you for your next courteous reply. [emoji2151]

Thanks for a great response and yes i believe you. Nice job on the diag. What are the voltage displayed on my panel representing? So you are saying the voltage is manipulated to bend in amplitude according to vibration causing it to become a frequency. Not changing volts. Would the voltage displayed be the threshhold in wich the frequency works at. why does the voltage drop on e85? Less noise? Less frequency needed? Magically? or im full of shit and it doesnt wich makes no sense to my eyes that have witnessed it ? Anolog is as simple as a boost switch or bleed valve. And i know it needs a digital tune to make the most. Geebz nearly any mod manualy controled or manipulated is anolog tuning. The anolog gauges are just a unique trend . The safc can monitor voltage deeper than my voltage displays and act as alot more than a signal bender. It can be used to manipulate many aspects that anolog tuning can use to trick the ecu. No it isn't an ecu and no it cant do what an ecu can do , it is a piggyback that can trick the ecu. They are very dangerous to your motor. But can do and not limited to: Dual maf Switch maf 2 step fcd Reduce / increase signal frequency Monitor voltages Monitor frequencies Map inputs Look retro Fool the ecu

Knock article continued.

Second hand. I found this article. I havent finished reading yet. Arhg it wont let me upload the pdf. I added a pic and also a pic of the pdf searched on google. "Wellsve.com" It does state that the sensor sends the audio signal as a voltage to the ecu. I understand that my setup doesnt show the knock lvl. Im sure It is the voltage the sensors run at as a baseline.

Omg I don't want to buy your nistune as i could easy get 1 cheap. I have a wolf I'm selling as it's cheaper to make my 6lt the power house and just toy with the rice bubbles as they are my favs. This is discussion and the same 3 fools just wanting to shut me down. What is voltage? (A frequency) Look past your pc boys theres components and mods that don't get controled by that. Also people still use this technology its just people like you expect others to sell a kidney to buy an ecu and get it on a dyno. My questions still stand if any one can answer them.

Here are some examples of anolouge tuning. Cam gears . If I advance the exahust cam a few degrees it throws the cas. Cas correction or adjustment. Unmetered air inlet bypass - to extend maf. Resistors in place of sensors. I have even experimented with extra injectors as auxiliary feed on boost control switches and as sequential injectors too. But with out better control are useless. A pod A zorst A turbo Bleed valve Fark even the idle valve is anolouge. These don't contain an electronic control module or display to function.

If the voltage displays had more digits post decimal it would be seen as spikes of .36 on top of the 2.4

I think that you saying no. And saying anoulouge tuning bending signals shows you don't understand. The frequency can be measured by voltage. What are the voltages showing in the video if not engine noise voltage? Why did they go lower on e85 Signal bending with the safc is still a digital way to control the signal. Even if it's not proper and stop going on about the safc. I use it as an fcd and a 2 step and it is map hacked so it takes throttle position from a map sensor meaning it's boost referenced. I can see his picture and I can see it does 0.36v as knock noise. The wave form is still a voltage. How else can the ecu distinguish the difference between engine noise and knock noise. They don't have ears. It uses a voltage frequency that can be output in audio similar to how it was input from audio.

This is a vid. You can see the green displays that say 2.4. They are linked to the knock sensor wires. This was first switch to e85. After a while the displays lowered to 2.1v. Yes ages ago.

Omg thank you for a decent response. I can see that the knock noise produces what I think is about .36v. Was the reading from a consult or is that direct voltage from the wires (at the block?) as I'm not sure a consult will show engine noise frequency? I am under the belief that the readings I get from the ecu wires that are 2.4v and lower, to be the engine noise voltage and that the ecu is listening for spikes of *(.36). So using the 2.4v as a baseline for the frequency to work from. Also I believe as I've seen and in the past read that the base line frequency will lower until the ecu can hear the frequency if the knock frequency (*.36) is weak meaning it's a lower voltage/frequency from less knock. Note* i have never used a dyno. I have witnessed this at idle wasting lots of fuel letting the ecu set the best idle after fuel switching. Do people know what I mean when I talk about analogue tuning? (Using mechanical and electrical modification to achieve a better tune) And of course this goes best with a digital tune and dyno runs. [emoji846][emoji854] discussion finally.

Ok. You put that well and I love that movie. Wasn't gonna reply again to this thread. ************************************* WHY WHEN A VOLTAGE READING IS TAKEN FROM EACH KNOCK SENSOR WIRE NEAR THE ECU DOES THE READING STAY AT 2.4 V AND OCCASIONLY DROP TO 2.3 V... BUT WHEN I USE MY PLEX M300 te TO CHANGE OVER TO E85 IT WILL GRADUALY GO DOWN AND STAY AT 2.1 V... THEN CHANGE BACK SLOWLY WHEN RUNNING ON 98 AGAIN? *************************************** ALSO IF CAS TIMING IS 15-17°....HOW MUCH TIMiNG IS ADDED AT IDLE FROM THE ECU? *************************************** HOW MANY VOLTS DOES THE ACTUAL NOISE OF KNOCK PRODUCE? **************************************** HOW MANY VOLTS IS THE ENGINE NOISE FREQUENCY SET TO AS A FILTER? 2.4V? ***************************************** Im not yelling just making the question stand out. If you want to smack my bum go away.

Yeah I worded it wrong. And surprise surprise y'all prove me right about not being able to discuss shid respectively . Ahaha. IF YOUR SMART ENOUGH TO TUNE. YOU SHOULD BE SMART ENOUGH TO UNDERSTAND ME.... AND NOT PROVE HOW MUCH OF A WANK PACK THIS FORRUM IS WITH THE ATTITUDE YOU GIVE. As I stated I'm not wanting a discussion with anyone that thinks I should kiss there ass. Fark off. Let people who want to actually discuss it do so. Thread ruined. Locking the door on this one for me. Maybe someone that is interested in how the ecu works (not just gets tuned) will make a thread where I can have discussion without a pack of priests raping me over the sacrilege of my non beliefs in there bible.

Does not seem like a discussion. More like a scolding. pfft to this site and to you egotistical Karnts. I cbf talking to you as you haven't backed anything up just talk to me like I'm nothing. Maybe id listen to you idiots if you had some respect. Besides who the fark are you. Some jerk off that can't even have a discussion on the net without belittling somone else too feel better. f*k u * looks at (gts boy) f*k u *finger too (dose pipe stustustut f*k u *jerk off motion at(ben c) Ur kool *points too (duncan) I'm out [emoji867][emoji867][emoji867][emoji867][emoji867][emoji867][emoji867][emoji867][emoji867][emoji867][emoji867][emoji867][emoji867][emoji867][emoji867][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959]

Also could have too much signal feed. Some controllers use a restricted nipple to stop the issue.

I love the drawing ahaha so good. Better than i could do its even got color. The lines are correct. I'm not sure on the source but reckon it is right due to you getting a signal. Sounds as if the conroler isn't venting. Have you tried it flowing the other way through the controller? The bearing on the spring should close the controller signal inlet under vacum I believe. If the controller is removed and u block the outlet can you blow any air through it... try to open it whist trying if needed.... the controller valve should bleed air. If it does it works and I'm almost stumped. If not it's got an issue ..try the other way...still an issue pull it to bits. If it only restricts the flow and is designed to it may need to be set up different. Manifold line to tee continuing too anther tee then waste gates. Coming off the first tee 2nd line to controller restricting flow through as bleed to air box or inlet pre atm. Hope you can make sense of this. Good luck.

They are correct about the amount of air that has to be compressed, even though it flows more it won't have as much response due to the time it takes to spool enough boost.Also the larger bov will allow quicker and more air to be released meaning even more to fill. That's why adjusting it will help a bit. On the bright side your car should make more power up higher in rpm with 2.5" over 2". Also worth a mention is that the plumb back needs to be between the afm and turbo as it has usually accounted for the air blown off. I angled mine to shoot at the turbo fins to help keep inertia. If it's to close to the afm or it blows back through it ...isn't great.

Me looking at google aint what a discussion is. You were full of insight earlier and i take aboard what you said why im wanting a discussion. The bit about the belt making the rb jumpy cause of cas not crank sensor was on the money, I'm wondering is they are different in the way the ecu interprets and gathers information from the knock sensor. Surely somone can show me a tuning article where it says the appropriate confirmation of how the ecu interprets and deals with the knock frequency vs the noise frequency.

I dunno . Can it be moved across . My bad sorry.

I found some knock sensor info I'd like to share. It's not the article i read about the rb20det ecu. But will be helpfull to some people. Note that this isn't all car specific. https://www-azosensors-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/www.azosensors.com/amp/article.aspx?amp_js_v=a2&amp_gsa=1&ArticleID=50&usqp=mq331AQCCAE%3D#referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com&amp_tf=From%20%251%24s&ampshare=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.azosensors.com%2Farticle.aspx%3FArticleID%3D50 https://carfromjapan-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/carfromjapan.com/article/car-maintenance/knock-sensor-work/amp/?amp_js_v=a2&amp_gsa=1&usqp=mq331AQCCAE%3D#referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com&amp_tf=From%20%251%24s&ampshare=https%3A%2F%2Fcarfromjapan.com%2Farticle%2Fcar-maintenance%2Fknock-sensor-work%2F This was a good read too. https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/testing-the-frequency-response-of-a-knock-sensor/ What i was talking about is the engine noise voltage resistance. So it only hears the knock. That is the resistance that I remember reading about that the ecu modifies to help listen. I'm pretty sure. Also might be worth noting that my experience here is with the 20det ecu. Maybe the 25 is diff. I'll keep googling. Try to find the article from years ago.

As I said my phone wants to correct me yep I'm a bad speller but I don't care. Also have fat thumbs. So I agree u will understand that. Don't be a keyboard warrior. That's like paying too much for nuts. Bahaha (hey I didn't make shot postage was 8 bucks and I had to drive there to post about 5 bucks.) Spelling is the least of my worries. It's the egos that float about here. I am human. Some respect goes a long way. Show me yours and I show ya mine. Always been an issue here at sau though.