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Seeing as you responded well I was typing lol reading that. It sounds like you need to make sure both actuators are on the signal.

Ok so you have twins? Or single? Each turbo needs controlling. Here is how my bleed valve works. Boost feed from turbo outlet niple to bleed valve entry (air bled) bleed valve to actuator. Actuator sees less boost than actual boost and keeps gate close until it sees specified modified boost signal from bleed valve. If you are only using a restrictor type bleed valve that doesn't bleed internally (it's self) then the restricter needs to be on a line teed into the signal line so the valve exit is it's vent wich can Pass epa law if plumbed to return to the inlet air box or pod pre turbo. Self bleed valve (good, illegal for road use) 1 line turbo to valve to actuator. (Single turbo) Restricting bleed valve (shid , can meet emissions) 2 lines turbo to tee to actuator then line from tee to valve to air box. (Single turbo) For twins I guess it would just need a tee from between actuators. Do you understand? The longer the signal line the more susceptible to boost spike Here is my bleed valve setup

Yeah leaving the bolt in the crank a bit works good.

Hehehe they are my guestemate percentages.

Hahaha it's not about how long the plastic lasts. It's about the risk. What if it does catch something. If it's coil pack rubber it could be to chunky to pass without breaking down. Initial start will move it before it burns it. There's an about 89 % chance you can start it fine turbo. About 99.5% if it's na. I just think that it can come out another way risk free. I would if stuck at this point take out the plug disconnect car (No firing up) And crank it a few times. Then I would expect the piece to have moved out of the cylinder so it won't fry in there when started ......depending how big the piece is. But I would probably still be vaccumming and missing the vacuum even using it while cranking with plug out.

Good luck with it. A puller is about 50-60 bucks. Use those two tens on long bolts to plate, plate with center thread hole , tighten a bolt in it upto the crank bolt location using a cap on the bolt end to suite [taper or flat] so not to wreck the crank bolt hole or damage the crank. Don't use a gook type puller as it can damage the pulleys.

Ok sorry I've read too many posts lately. I see you did. Usually to crack the bolt on the crank you use a big bar and lay it hard against the chassis near the air filter so it's locked in place when on the crank then a real quick clik the starter to crack the bolt. That won't work in this predicament. Slowly turn each one bit by bit starting at the inlet then zorst then crank. Gentle slow lil by lil. Cyl by cyl

If you are turbo it will probably create a problem depending on the plastic. If it's really soft and breaks up easy as maybe ok. But if it's a solid firm plastic don't put it through a turbo. To many possible problems including residual melting plastic that could screw the exhaust turbine wheels performance and functionality , waste gate & seats , also for na valve seats but that would burn away eventually unless the plastic was tough enough to bend so thin (doubtfull). If your na turn it over do the the plug out and it may shoot out plug hole.

Did you try turning over the motor with a socket before you pulled the belt. Just in case. If you were on decel the belt most likely slipped the inlet cam making it retarded. If the belt slipped but after 2 years hmmm. At first sounded a bit like a corrupted battery. But usually they won't even click till jumpstart then click. Was there anything unusual with the car just before it happened? Don't turn any of the cams or crank until you have an idea on it. Need to get it to tdc gently as possible both crank and cams... slowly turn bit by bit one then the next and so on to keep them from banging the valves. Good luck.

Plug and play Rb25 Wolf3d v4 aftermarket ecu and pc cable. Bought for a project and changed directions with build so this is not needed. Unsure of the tune on the ecu. $400 obo Tuning program can be downloaded from the wolf website for free. Inbox me if your keen. Postage available. Located Traralgon vic.

Not all actuators can be adjusted. IF YOU ARE SO SURE THAT ITS ON CORRECT DID YOU TRY THE OPPOSITE ? Just try it. Pics of setup. Where it gets boost. Where it vents at the controller. Where it links to the actuator.

The code could be cause you unpluged the maf/afm. Do a hard reset and check for faults after attempting to start it again. The wires do get hot and can go bad but usually from movement because they have hardend and gone brittle. Any spark?

Tdc cyl 1* Do a search in the forrums I'm sure I learnt that here

As far as im able to tell.....Those timing cam gears are completely misaligned if you have that at tdc cyl. The dots on the teeth of the gears should align to the whitelines on the back cover as they indicate where the markers are approximately.

Exhaust Temp , A/F MIX gauges. Intake temp sensors pre cooler and post cooler gauges. Map. Knock voltage Atmospheric temp G force Just about any parrameter you want can be measured and detailed depending on your wallet. Best to do all temps (oil ,water ,exahust), oil pressure , A/F , IAT, map knock.

If your turbo.... don't start it. Or blow it out the valve.

Use an empty Vacuum cleaner with a small long hose tapped to it. L9ng so u don't drop it in and empty so u can tell when u got it. Or rotate the engine till the exhaust valve is open and blow it out with a compressor.[emoji39]

Staggered and dished 18" speedy inferno rims / mags . 1 has a small buckle on the inside which has never caused me any issues and always balanced up in the 5 years ive used them. Makes any car look and feel instantly better. Good tread. Front 225 40 18 Tread 80% Rear 235 40 18 Tread 65% Would love a polish up. $650. Currently on the red ford.

I posted the add under other items sorry. Link here to : https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476008-wrecking-r34-na-sedan/

*Wrecking* R34 skyline midnight blue *(parts only)* *more parts not listed* Prices negotiable! Seats 300 lot front and rear Seat belts 30 each Boot lining 80 Bonnet 550 Boot lid 220 Motor ecu & box 1200 sold Front strut brace 110 Tail lights 400 or 220 each Headlights 550 sold pending payment Front bumper 350 sold pending payment Rear bumper (silver) 120 Front gaurds 200 set fl60(dent) fr140 A.c. fan 25 sold pending payment Throttle cable 20 sold Radiator 70 sold Radiator shroud 30 sold Locks and keys 100 sold pending payment Door outer handles 20 each Door interior trims 30 each Window switches 15 each Driver door electrics control 40 Door inner handles 15 each Center console 60 Cluster (@220k) 100 Dash 200 Glove box 35 Kick panels 10 each Sunvisors 40 set Steering wheel with airbag 100 Steering clock assembly 70 Msg for more parts and prices I will respond asap. No emails please. Scammers reported! Zaq - 04382three511six [email protected]