Slap

You cant tune the stock ecu. You will need an aftermarket one and if your auto one that can assist the auto.

Follow your heart , sacrifice the essential. If you can pimp it... pimp it. If you can sell and buy closer to your heart do it. If ya want all of em collect and save. If ya want fast get or make somthin fast. I can only tell you what i did not tell you what or where you wanna buy. I saved some money up My r32 skidline was brought second hand in 2011 from Port Macquarie nsw off a fella called brad. He had old scool mods wich i learned to hack and make use of at the same time keeping it unique. Even had neons in the engine. I had to fix all the weak links in the chain of mods nothing drastic. He did a great budget job for back in the day. Cost me 3k had Porsche gt green with black graphic center stripe , looked cool but road worthy inspections were refused at multiple places untill it was painted. So i learned to paint. Wouldnt let it go ever now passing it down to a son (lucky bugger). So good luck im sure you will find one but they are usualy 10-15k gtst and gts4 or 30k+ gtr

Stock ecu should just need a reset unless u got nistune in it. Have you driven another turbo skudline? If not maybe it wasnt running correct at 3k+ and never experienced its hidden truth. I just cant see it running right at all if that disc was like that the whole time. New cas . Reset . Away you go hopefully. Goodluck! And becareful cause it may have loads more power than previous.

Im wondering if that disc caused the overheating.

What ecu?

Wow. I havent seen that before. Definitely an issue. I cant believe it ran clear at 3k. Unless you broke the disc by accident opening it up. ( doughtful ). Got another cas?

It can be done! You wanna do it. Learn . Accomplish. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466795-doing-a-t-conversion-on-an-unopened-rb25de-neo-r34-gt/ Research is the begining. Best kit is a loom ,ecu ,drive train and pump swap from a gtt.

Could water have got in the tank. Sounds like closed loop o2 to ecu isnt functioning correctly.wrong a/f mix readings. By 3k its hittin maps usualy. If its stock ecu unplug the o2 sensor leave it and do a reset and start it to see if idles and revs to 3k better. Could be dirty maf also Any mods we should know to help internet diagnoses?

[emoji86][emoji90] Yes sell it and dont get another. I also like toyota even though i am passionate about nissan more. Buy a 4x4 money pit toyata cause "toyota is the best". Have fun with your karma.

So apply math. Wich was figured. Good info. Got the ball rollin atleast. Can you help him with the increments and different flow rates?

7503 l/m sounds better

Yer id say i powerD it up

2500 cfm = 70792.11 l/m 70792.11 litters per minute Depending on your project and if the figures are close or you get em... How and why do you need them in increments, increments of and for what? The engine running ? At wot ? Removed ? Zorst on? Vs temp? Or maybe the redneck in me is missing somthing here ? Gts boy ? Are you telling him how to scale it or apply math to figures? [emoji3166][emoji856][emoji51]

I dont know em exact but off the top of my head somthing like : rb20 and rb30 2000cfm Rb25 2500cfm Rb26 2600cfm As i stated unsure on the figures and ill add even the terminology used. Maybe someone will pop in! Or research.

You lookin for similar to this? https://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?/topic/459467-Removing-The-Factory-Boost-Solenoid-(pcm-Valve)

Lots of burn outs [emoji1037][emoji13]

Y?

Research the power it uses and the wiring. Dont wanna wreck the fuel gauge if its to high in power. I recon it should and if i couldnt locate the correct one would research to see.

Just leave it slow and build a drive train setup on the side ready to go in.... maybe buy a drivetrain setup. Turbo of course. Research... lots 200kw from rb30 n/a is basicaly a dream. 25de n/a is 30+kw more roughly stock than the rb30 115-120kw. Engine ecu and loom change keep std auto maybe. If you have an auto the manuals feel more powerful. Minispool or weld the diff for twin fun. Pod CAI ,zorst ,stractors , cam Head work... dont bother with the 30 head especialy N/A. When turbo best to use dohc not sohc head then talk head work. Cam should be done after some other mods so its alread opened up for the cam to work better.

Ahaha. That was a cat now converted. Well played

Ill have a look tomorow and get back to you.

But its still possible. Ahahaha

True but i see no impossibility in the thread.

If the back wheels are shaking enough it could shake the front wheel while on the stands or even possibly sending feedback through the lines if the pump is weak. I believe it to be the rack or pump. Ever herd of possibility or possibilities? They can happen.

My bad but beside the point i was getting at. Light/gauge/tickler dont matter if the wiring is wrong.