Slap

Manual bleed valve or electronic boost controler or adjustable/higher psi waste gate actuator. Dont go over 12 or you will hurt the turbo bad

Up the boost to 11-12psi

You need somthing to report too the ecu on the air intaken. The ecu needs to be calibrated accordingly to this. You can interchange the standard afms for some cars with others and there plugs. Some afms have higher or lower resolution and may change the calibration. Im using an n64 maf from a pulsar bahahaha. They are almost identical to standard apart from the sticker and the plug. Make sure to take the loom plug with enough wires because it needs to be wired in and magneticaly shielded. To stop fuel cut either fit a device or a resistor of the right kind to stop the ecu seing the voltage needed to trigger a fuel cut. (Dangerous!) I think its around 4.2 v where it triggers on my rb20 been a while since i looked. Research or wait for more replies before you tinker.

New terminals?That plug on the positive terminal can be dicky and unplug or not connect properly. I believe it will isolate the power of most the car from the alt and bat if disconnected.

[emoji87][emoji3166][emoji856] I thought e85 draws in condenensation and can easily be contaminated. If it is in the can it can draw condensation through the airways. Same with your conaminated oil in the sump but will more than likely evaporate quickly in the engine and show as condensation on the inside of the oil cap. Saying this hopefully the can is saving the sump oil by being the only atmospheric inlet mildue can get in. When on petrol the temps are higher and the fuel and moisture evaporate away from the oil easier and qucker.... e85 more fuel and less evap and more drawn in condensation fr9m e85... messure what you tip out compared to what you need! More blow by will add more. Does the engine have a breather? May help if pvc return dont. I used to use 1 on the top of the can so not all vacum was applied to the motor. Also the can will be the moisture catcher still. ?It may be to much vacum in the motor pulling the fuel past the rings if they are gaped more? Very queationable! [emoji89] [emoji51]

《Boost!======

Rpm acceleration ben. Not all cars hit 8k the same speed. The faster the piston can accelerate the quiker it can get to set redline. I know im confusing and i dont mean to be but sometimes i feel like i have to defend myself before i can clarify and end up confused where your at only to go there and bring it back home in an evolving argument for you to see what im on about.

[emoji6]

Whats the first mod you do? Up Boost! Not C/R! But yes up it or down it to suit

Lol. No but it isnt as good at it as boost. With boost and our fuels we are limited by materials to certain C/R. And it is easier to achieve a speedy motor by sacrificing C/R instead of boost on a boosted motor.

Your close but still not getting it. If we add the cycle it works in favour of boost and low C/R according to fuel type. You cant just say that basic physics doesnt exist...just because it can be hard to understand the exacts. The explosive force of the extra air is mor than that of compressed with the fuels we use. And the motor has less resistance.

What did i say wrong exactly? "That more pressure will slow the compression stroke and cause more heat" I did state i wasnt talking power stroke. because then power comes to play and volume is more effective for power. The power vs resistance factor is now at play. Wich then all comes down to air flow and fueling. You cant take your turbo off and increase the C/R to make up for it unless you had superman fuel. Do you see what im saying yet?

This is where the argument begun. It will and its power and temps and the fuel you use. All of wich you know but had to say the above instead of acuratley showing me how the balance of pressure is the same at different volumes vs C/R to enable the pistons accelleration to not change. As i said how fast can the motor be spun by hand? ... lower the compression to suit and its faster..or raise the power to suit and its faster. Thanks for a detailed reply but im not arguing wich is better as its my personal prefference for me and yours for you. Would be lovely to run e85 cept its not viable cost wise for on road high k use yet.

[emoji849][emoji51][emoji3166][emoji856] I have had to much negative feed back when i assist with things like this not that all the feed back is bad . Hopefully someone will chime in b4 the temptation to hypothesis becomes to much! Ahh i remember this... and i quote gts boy here as a flash back. "Gents, When Slap is asking about closed loop, he's talking about closed loop fuelling. I suspect when Johnny Dose is talking about closed loop (in above posts) he's talking about closed loop idle speed control. So, talking at cross purposes. As has been posted before; At idle (ie, TPS closed, ~0.45v) the ECU is definitely in closed loop idle speed control. At idle, provided the O2 sensor is warm enough, the ECU will be in closed loop mixture control. But this often fails and the ECU will just revert to the idle fuelling map. At idle, the ECU does not change timing based on O2 feedback. At idle, the ECU adds AND subtracts timing from the base 15° according to its needs for idle speed control, but is aiming to run 15° and control speed with IACV wherever possible.".

The extra volume gets read. Thats why it adds more fuel. Do you ever think that i do these silly exersises to make you relise what your saying. I do learn technichals from these discussions. Now lets say you have too much pressure. Wich is better to reduce. Boost or compression ratio and why? Example....11.5/1 @ 9psi. What should be lowerd? Can you see why it matters about suiting the setup. Also back to piston speed...i should clarify i dont mean rpm or max velocity and enertia. I mean piston acceleration speed during compression stroke wich would be different from bottom to top depending on pressure.

To be fair even though you answered the car race part. Well done So if psi is added by boost then it adds more power? Over adding it as a compression rate?

I would argue that the compression stroke can compress air with less effort when boosted with psi from turbo as opposed to it added to comp ratio. Would a cammed high comp 10.5/1 na r33 beat a boosted r33 running 1 bar boost 9.5/1? Why? (Piston speed?) Maybe ?- The boosted car could compress the air at twice the rate as it has 2x atmosphere pressure at the bottom of the compression stroke and is the same ltrs. Means ? Less work for same power - surely quicker compression stroke. Not talking combustion stroke... atm. I never said fuel wasnt relative. I backed yas on it. I found my car better with my cams set to lower my compression and alow a more free flowing motor. I would also argue that they are different pressures as dynamic. 9.5/1 + 29.4psi boost =? 10.5/1 +14.7 psi boost =? 11.5/1 = ? Because you have doubled the sarting amount of air with every 14.7 of boost And the piston still has 100% travell left. Do they all have the same answer? Or Does the volume of air make a difference? And How fast can you spin your motor by hand with the plugs in compared to with them out? So is it? 9.5/1 + 29.4psi boost =? 169.05 10.5/1 +14.7 psi boost =?169.05 11.5/1 = ?169.05 Wich would seem right if the volume wasnt doubled and tripled inside of the cyl area. Maybe it should be:?? (14.7atmo+29.4)[email protected]/1 =? 418.95 (14.7atmo+14.7)29.4psi @ 10.5/1=? 308.7 (14.7atmo)[email protected]/1 = ? 169.05 Anyone monitored cylinder pressure under boost at pp. (Perfect pressure point)? How do you recon it should be calculated? It is desirable to match for how you want your car to react. Boost provides more air than raising the compression so you can make more power from higher boost than higher comp. In saying this im not against raising it if it suits the cars setup. On an n/a car push it up for sure.

That is relevant only to my rant and how you tried to belittle me in the gtr sale thread. How about a post helping out the thread starter instead. I gave you a crucifix remember.

No i havent. I will look.

You can look it up specific or just wait for my buddy here to correct me. Negative terminal off - Ignition on - press and hold brake for aprox 3-5 mins. Done. Turn off key - put terminal on. The ecu retains some power so by pressing the brake it tries to light the signals and drains the ecu.

Its a forum. What was my advice? None! I said personaly i THINK..... P.s. Where is your actual input to the thread discussion? Go ahead contradict me or give your input to the poster and have a discussion so people from all levels of enthusiasm can learn and dont talk down to me / say im wrong without eveidence or missquote me because you didnt understand me. Theres way to many egotiscal controlfreaks on this forum nowa days. Now heres my advice.......[emoji87] Id build it mate and then boost it hard on a stock ecu hahahahaha cause thats me. But these guys will say shid like you cant, the motor wont handle it, the ecu cant, and all sorts of crap to make ya feel shid so that they discourage you to post and maintain there rules of the skyline bible (sau) and what knowledge there isnt so that as tuners and mechanical engineers you have to pay up to them to tune your car when they cant even explain a voltage reading on a knock sensor without spazing out or unable to believe a car can idle off the idle maps and act differently... because theyre not the real deal. there is however very knowlegable people on here that can communicate well and understand when and where others missunderstandings are and that are the real deal but dont have much time to be on the forrums . But realy ya can its not how they would do it and it just wont last as long as a motor you throw thousands into tuning and moding. If you have it, use it.

Regardless of wether you have noticed rpm speed fluctuations whilst tuning due to compression ratio differences, it is desirable to match compression ratio to boost to avoid knock and the as gts boy said todays fuels ..... pay 2 play. Higher boost lower comp or vice versa. Here is a lil bit from cgc about the G.O. https://gcg.com.au/component/rsticketspro/view-article/27-compression-ratio-with-boost-pressure High comp na ☆ yerp its good High comp boosted $ lotsa mods ta be standout.

Yes it will. I thought you tune cars gts boy. Compression ratios have a large impact on the turbo. Every time you go up one on static compression you add 14.7 of atmospheric pressure. The extra air goin in causes extra going out making the rurbo spool faster. And also adding extra pressure to the compression stroke making the motor work harder as it has to compress from 14.7 upto the ratio compression factor. 10/1 147psi 9/1 133psi 8/1 119psi The higher it is the more intense the discharge after combustion creating more charge for the turbo to spool from witch helps down low rpm but up high in rpm causes more chance of detination from more heat caused from the engine working harder to compress air as a compression rario instead of as boost from the turbo. I am not a dyno tuner but i know it affects your rpm power and speed. I actualy cant believe you recon it wont affect the revs gts boy. Wtf? Tell me why it wont!

Personaly i THINK high comp with a turbo isn't as nice, it gives better low end response and spool but inevitably robs you of rpm speed in higer rpm as the engine has to work harder where if its lower comp it puts more of the work on the turbo allowing the piston to move quicker as extra compression is pre done as boost. 2lt na 14.7 atmosphere Add boost of 14.7 = same 4lt na Add another 14.7 = same as 6lt na But as the turbo is pre compressing on the 2lt the motor can still maintain speedy rpm as it now doesnt have to do the extra compression that the n/a car does. Compression ratio of 8.5/1 is 14.7 psi less than 9.5/1 and so on. That means that your motor could handle more boost at 8.5/1 but would also need it to be as powerful and would also rev easily in high rpm with boost and lag in low rpm without an antilag setup. Anyways. if ya got it throw together. Would be better just finding a cheap 30 i recon for that head. Depends on funding too.

Have you reset the ecu since putting in the new sensor? To make sure its not the old code. What happened to the old one, did it just die? As gts boy said it might not be switching correctly. How long has it been doing it? Throttle body could possibly need a clean. What got changed before it started this behaviour?