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when you get the wheels to chirp for a second or 2 when you change from first to second going flat out i find that it can still bog down sometimes around 6000rpm, but anywhere above seems to be the sweet spot for launches in my car, no bog down, lays a bit of rubber for about 5m or so too. i wouldnt try it too often if you dont have a very strong clutch. ive done about 30 so far without any problems also i "hear" that gtr's can rip pretty nice burnout in rwd (with no use of the brakes)

Hey, Just wonder how many other r32 GTR owners reguarily do 6500rpm+ launches, second gearies ect in their GTR? mines got a twin plate and oil cooler ect, when i drive it like that it feels fine, as if it can handle being driven like that (plus its fun), where as in my other cars driving them in this manner felt like it was going to break stuff the only thing i havent been game to try is 4wd doughies so does every baby them around or what?

we share the same opinoin at least is in a different state so i dont have to look at it

haha is that a made up number? even if its a real number i dunno if its accurate considering i registered mine as a "skyline" and gtr isnt mentioned anywhere on the rego info (other than the chassis number) i have one (32silver) when i picked mine up at the docks there were about 8 other 32 gtr's there so i guess there are a fair few but i duno if they get driven around alot cos i have only ever seen 3 others on the roads while ive been driving mine (everyday driver)

i use peak replay on my (very old) tomei boostgauge about 100x more often than looking at the guage while flat out. if i get a set of gauges at some stage i would defintaly think a replay function is a vital part the gauge must have + defi look nice and are top quality. defi is what i will buy if i buy ever buy any new guages im sure you know anyway (and is probaby already posted) www.nengun.com and www.greenline.jp

with my stock lip i only have 10cm clearance as it is, on my car you wouldnt be able to go lower

A gtr is worth what people are willing to buy/sell it for According to redbook 1990 import is worth: National average price - private sale* $18,900 - $23,800 Redbook 1990 BNR32 import A 1992 Local car on the other hand: National average price - private sale* $31,900 - $38,400 Redbook 1992 BNR32 Aus Delivered If i sold my car it would go on the market for around 20-22k, there are alot more sellers than buyers at the moment, i dont see why you cant pick up a good condition car locally for 20k. Still i DO agree that on the most part you are looking at sub-par cars under that 20k mark, unless you are very very lucky or you import yourself (and you still need some luck doing it that way)

well. u can get good condition GTR's for that much mine cost me 13'000 landed. It has a twin plate, oil cooler, airpods, exhaust, Ohlins coilovers, short shifter, enkei rp 17*9 inch rims, running 1 bar ect. Mechanically the engine runs very well and the gearbox is in good condition, the body has no dents and the paint is immaculate apart from the bottom of the front bar where some paint has been scratched off (only 10cm clearance) The only problems with the car was a small section of crushed rail that had to be fixed to pass sa transport inspection and the previous owner had cut a hole in the dash to put gauges in. In total including compliance, a full service, rego, insurance, stamp duty, and getting a few small things fixed comes to about 18'000 If you want it as a collectable to put in your garage and take to the occasional show then sure buy the mint vspec2. I would be suprised if my car wasnt faster and handles better than one of these mint stock vspecs anyway. It made 229rwkw on the SAU adelaide dyno day not that long ago. Depends what you want it for, as nice as it would be to own the car you speak of, im happy with my car and the performance value it has given me.

i know that about 7600-7800rpm in 4th is 180k's per hour cos it kept hitting the speed limiter on the dyno just before 8000rpm i think 270 is wishfull thinking, my guess would be more like 240

i thought it was just for the fluid height sensor (that little float thing inside) to send a signal to the dash if the fluid gets to low (hicas light) could be wrong tho

tried multi-grips couldnt get it to budge, its needing more force to crack it than i can generate with them, and its not just me being weak also soaked it in wd40 prior to all of this havent tried vice-grips but i reckon its just gonna strip more metal off the nut edit: 66 skyline, that thought crossed my mind didnt know if it was possible, i will give it a go

Hey, the nut on the bolt that goes thru the bottom of a r32 gts rear coilover has completley stripped itself in our attempt to crack it. nothing has worked so far anyone know how to get it off without destroying the bolt? Or if you have to destroy the bolt anyone know how much they are from nissan?? Cheers (working on it at the moment so quick replys extra appreciated!!) already tried a search too...

my GTR would be insulted if i didnt redline it a few times a day

SAFC = Super air fuel controler Edit: oh and AVR, you sure you dont mean AVCR which is apexi boost controler?

Yep thats mine, bank lady didnt know how to put my name in the transaction and the other teller told her to enter 9999 then she would be able to put a name next to the transaction, i guess it didnt work, but thats my payment from monday.

you signed up to ask someone about their car you saw driving down the road? <_<

very interested when do we start having to make deposits?

feels fast tho

theres no water in mine, i feel left out

im pretty sure hicas comptuer has some functon controling the ABS as well as the hicas

Theres no reason drifting cant be considered a sport. Not all sports are about who can can go the fastest/highest. Think of rythmic gymnastics for example, the winner is who can put on the most artistic display with their bodies. Sure their are technical criteria to score points, but that is no different to drifting which has its own set of technical criteria used to score points. And for me thats what its about, someone being able to put on an artisic display with their vehicle, demonstrating their ability to control it. also, IMO true drifting isnt about massive powerslides in high powered cars, which seems to be todays trend, its about using weight transfer and momentum to slide the car and using the minimal power available to hold on to the slide, im most impressed by a slide that has no smoke rather than heaps, but i must say im the minority.

yes, it has "soft" redline at 7500 and "hard" redline at 8000 the idea behind it is you shouldnt rev over 8000 at all, and you shouldnt really rev over 7500 for extended periods. i take mine to 8

i dont know how to help you but i have the same problem its putting 2 lines of scratches on the window on both sides, whatever it is i figured its some after effect of having side intrusion bars put in, but it does start the scratch right at the top so it must be just inside the door where it starts scratching

i dont have one in my gtr it didnt come with a jack, and i figure if i cant jack the car up, i cant put a spare tire on, so no point having the spare either you can buy those cans of stuff you spray into the tyre if you get a flat, that or dad can come rescue me

1) Brakes - They are hell spongy like they have air in them but they have been bled apparently. We replaced the master cylinder with a new one and then bled it again and its still spongy. Could it be the brake booster or? Mine was the same when i first imported it, machined brake disks and new fluid helped the problem a bit, and some hard stopping helped the problem a bit more, i suspect that rust from the disks that accumulated during shipping embedded into the pads. im still not happy with it tho, and i doubt i will be till i get around to getting some new DBA rotors and some good quality pads. if it was me i would try new fluid (if you havent already), then machine the disks (if they seem warped), then check all the calipers are working correctly, if thats all ok better pads with more bite might improve the feel. if everythings working properly they should stop well. 2) Ticking sound at rear - When the key is in the On position, or when the car is started/running i can hear a 'click' under the car and the lights flicker at the same time as the click. When the car is first started it happens more often about 5 seconds apart, when its running it doesnt really happen while driving or i cant hear it anyway. I can also head a click/tick noise when i have it on the on pos every probably 5-10 seconds, i havent noticed it while the car is running tho, just when its on ON, but not running, i havent really listened either but im not concerned about it. 3) Aircon - The aircon/vents only point to the window now, they used to move around like normal when the mode was changed, but now they only stay in the demister position and you cant hear the motor trying to move them. take to auto electrician/ buy new parts from a wrecker and fit them they are just my suggestions i hope its of help