Silverhks

Ok, I did the proper thing and listened to him and those numbers still don't make any sense. They took a car whose starting point is ~245 tq 230 HP and with an OTS tune is ~280 tq 240 HP on a dynapak. Added a front mount and a g25-660, lost *boost threshold* and torque while adding 40 HP. My understanding is if the turbine a/r is too small you would get sooner boost response with it choking at the top end. With thought I still don't understand what happening here. The numbers don't make sense to me especially combined with their comments. BIG edit guys, sorry I should have put more thought into the original post.

Careful with the octane comparisons. I'm pretty sure we use a different calculation than you guys do in Australia. Here we use the (R+M)/2 method. I fairly sure our 93 octane is roughly equivalent to RON 98.

When they released the spec sheet on the g25 I looked at them real hard. The problem I saw is they are longer than the stock turbo. There just doesn't seem to be horizontal room for them. Granted this is based off the spec sheet and not trial and error. If we could slant them 20° from horizontal they might fit but you can't do that and expect the snail to live.

Now that's what I have been looking for. I appreciate the info Lithium

Ouch, sorry to hear that. At least with the laundry you have something to keep you occupied.

That's what I get for not following the link. I assumed the link was just for an engine. I guess it does fit. Makes you wonder why he's trying to sell it that close to completion.

Will a Barra fit under the bonnet of an r33?

I really hope that's an off to the Dyno see ya... Not the, I'm done now see ya

Unfortunately I don't see the front panels listed. Only the bumpers and rear quarters. I hope the fronts will be added. I haven't needed to look up windows. Are they that hard to get?

This is kind of a late reply but NZEFI has the scaling data for these MAFs, you should reach out to them.

Nissan has add 24 more pieces to the Heritage program. Linky Here Nismo link in Japanese. This works better on my phone where it will translate. The highlights in my mind are new blocks, heads and R32 body panels. I wonder if they would be making any changes to the metallurgy.

Craven minds must work like brilliant ones. I'm currently looking for an e60 535 sport package as a daily driver.

Amen! Having just spent ~500 US on AN house and fittings I feel your pain. I take solace in the hope that I won't have to replace this stuff again

I have to say, if that transmission works the way he is expecting it to. It will be a game changer. The speed and driveability if a DCT with closer to manual weights. Not to mention packaging advantages. Edit: aww hell, I screwed up the quoting somehow. I was referring to the Koenigsegg video

See, I knew I was to new here to open my mouth. Apparently I never learn ? At least I know better than to give legality advice...

I'm still new to this platform. However, aftermarket dump pipes like that are usually designed to mount to the existing cat-back eliminating factory cats. If you want a hi-flow cat you then have it fabbed in as far down the dump as possible. This hurts emssions on cold starts but works just fine once warmed up while allowing the best flow for your turbo. The specifics of this platform I could have very wrong though. I hope someone more knowledgeable will chime in soon.

I'm confused. Where are you thinking of putting the cat? The Kakimoto bolts to the dump pipe right? If the last is true, I would put a 3" cat in the dump pipe. How are you going to transition from 3" dump to 3.5" Kakimoto?

I love that blue, what is it?

Thanks. Back when I thought I only had a busted hose I bought an Autobahn88 silicon set. I am Replacing all of the hoses under the plenum with those and I am eliminating as many as I can currently. I also have replacement radiator hoses as well. I haven't looked into the exhaust side yet. Yes, cam gears are going on. It's just more delay although the cams are probably going to cause more than that. Thanks. Trust me if I loaded a current picture you wouldn't say that. Typical unsealed shed dust layer...

Had some time to to work on the car today. Installed the starter, the oil takeoff block, and intake manifold. I had to stop installing things because I am waiting on the oil pressure extension so I can mount it in the block and my remote oil filter mount, fittings, and hose. I did start building up the IAC assembly and sorting out the other hoses I will be keeping. I would like to change to a stepper IAC at some point but that is going to need to wait until I can replace the ECU. There are 2 vacuum lines that come around the back of the head and tie into the water tube. Both are capped at the front side. If I understand this correctly. The green line should have pressure from the plenum, correct? My initial thought is to run a line off the plenum with a tee. 1 side going to the EBC and 1 connecting to the green hard line completely avoiding the water tube hard lines completely. I would then connect the EBC signal line to the blue hard line. Does that sound correct? Then the 2 steps forward 1 step backwards aspect of my time with this car rears it's head again. I removed the towel I had covering the head to see this... Yes that is rust on the cam lobes. I'm not sure what my options are at this point other than to pull the cams and have them polished. Which leads to "as long as I'm there" I need to get some cam gears. It will also allow me to measure the cams so I know what I actually have.

I'm sorry to make this an additional reply but I can't figure out how to edit my previous post. I have started a build threat HERE. It has pics of the headlights

Well I guess I will start with how I acquired my beauty. This is pretty much my first sight her. In the spring of 2017 a friend of mine mentioned that he had imported a BNR32 in 2016 and was thinking about selling it. Having only heard about this car I was immediately interested in seeing and driving it. This is pretty much my first of sight her. Between this and how the test drive went I had to have her. Known mods: GT-SS turbos Unknown spec cams, possibly Poncams Rumored built bottom end, however based on the bits and pieces I think it's probably stock and I'm not taking it apart to check Large unknown spec intercooler Aftermarket hard pipe, this includes a botched together abortion of a merge pipe(I need to take a pic of this, it's hard to describe how much of an improvement a stock one would be) Yellowjacket coils and an aftermarket coil harness. Multi-plate clutch, rumored to be a Nismo BC coilovers There are some heim joints in the suspension. I haven't crawled under her and really checked what I have there yet. HICAS is either disabled or broken. The dash light is on, I just haven't investigated yet. Power FC with Japanese tune. I have been driving it on what I think is wastegate pressure (uses a Profec B) An aftermarket steering wheel I decided the first thing I wanted to tackle was the headlights. The low beams were atrocious and the highs were nonexistent. Shock! Someone had butchered rear of the headlights so they could poorly install some H1 bulbs. If I was going to repair the mess I decided to upgrade it to some Bi-Xenon projectors from Morimoto, I believe they were the mini D2S version 3. Morimoto on the left, Stock on the right Stock on left, on the right is rig I came up with to adopt the Morimoto. Installed without glass. 20 years in the import scene and I have never liked chrome light surrounds. So I scuffed them lightly and flat blacked them. The only almost finished product I have. I haven't sealed them back up or installed the clips yet. Not sure why I don't have a finished pic, it's going to make the DIY harder to write, oh well. I installed my new spiffy headlights. Wired them up with the relay kit I bought and couldn't get them to stay on when switching to highs. (Interesting side note here, I discovered SAU while trying to figure this out, say summer of 17) There is a good thread here explaining the 2-3 options you have to make them work, I just can't find it at the moment ☹️. While testing and aiming my new lights the car sprung a coolant leak under the plenum. No problem, right? Buy and replace some hoses and your good. Yep, not that simple. First you have to get the plenum off so you can see what the problem is. Boy, I wasn't aware of what I was getting into there. With every removed hose I was horrified by their condition and the crusty rust looking stuff on the inside. I hadn't found one that looked like it had actually failed though. Then I found the culprit, the fitting at cylinder 6. The little 90 take off had a clear hole in the bend. Unfortunately, the only way I could get it off was to remove the throttles and intake manifold. At this point I'm realizing I should have just pulled the engine.... I put a factory fitting back in but then "while I'm thereitis" set in. I decided to remove the factory oil/water mess and go with a remote oil cooler. I acquired a Ross Tuffbond oil take off fitting. I recently saw some posts about the NA coolant hoses really helping with simplifying this area, I need to look into this more. I also got the valve cover, plenum, upper timing belt cover and intake manifold powder coated. This pretty much catches you up to today. Due to simple lack of time it is taking longer than I would like.

As she appeared for me. She is just as clean inside although I don't have any pictures. That is my STi in the background.

Hey man, I've been following this since you first posted last June. I'm enjoying the way it's coming together for you and really looking forward to your opinions of both the ECU and the MeisterRs. P.S. I'm just up the road.

Thanks for the welcome! I'm hoping to some basic pics uploaded after I get off work in the morning, my local not yours Oh, and I have noticed the American section is a little slow...