Sirsyorrz

still available?

yeah i get it now, the workshop manual says each mark is 5 degress 0 being first on the left ill check for vaccum leaks and will also give the iacv a good clean another quick question would my idle being at 1200rpm effect me setting the timing? as right now say everything else is perfect and tdc is correct i cant adjust the cas anymore to get any less timing as per the picture of the cas?

ive checked everything with the throttle body and its not set to high, i can change the revs up to 2k with the iacv screw but can't go any lower than 1.1 with the screw all the way in, dont know about any adjustments on the aac which i think is the thing right next to fuel rail? ill have to check for vaccum leaks but dont think thats it ill also check TDC with spark plug out and ill also check and make sure the cams align up also the retarding timing only happens while driving it will hit 4k revs and boost will still go up but it feels like i have the brakes on and it just bogs also no idea what you mean by the 360 part

even if wide mark is TDC i cant turn it anymore right to go more timing or less timing

i thought first mark was 0 then 2nd 5 3rd 10 4th 15 5th 20 6th 25

Hey guys so im having an issue with my timing and idle and ive searched everywhere and tried everything i can so my timing is maxed out between the 4th and 5th mark so around 20degress when manual is suppose to be 15degress, my cas is turned all the way right so i cant lower it anymore. im doing the trick where you put a old ignition lead on cyl 1 but could it be that the way my timing light sensor clicks on is the wrong way around? as when it gets to 4k revs it feels like it retards the timing alot as it bogs down but still makes boost then around 4.5k it kicks in and it throws you back as its like i was brake boosting it. my o2 sensor wiring is a little bit melted so thought that might be causing the timing issue but i unplugged it and the same issued happened or could that mean i was never getting o2 sensor data and thats why it retards timing at 4k? my idle wont go any lower than 1.1k revs, ive set the ecu all the way anti clockwise ive backed out the screw on the iacv and backed it all the way in, my tps is set to 0.53v ive made sure my throttle cable is loose enough and not holding it open. just looking for ideas on what else it could be, i have a friend coming over on the weekend to help but just want to try narrow it down, firstly will get a new connector on both ends of the o2 sensor.

found the part number and a replacement part number for the relay its about $45aud from nissan dealer

hey guys I've searched everywhere and i cant find a replacement for my headlight relay thats in the fuse box in the engine bay, my headlights are gone and i suspect its the relay and cant find any replacement on ebay or anywhere anyone know what relay it is and what replacement would work? cheers

I just had a look and I actually have no knock sensor loom at all, both knock sensors are there just no loom, going to borrow a friends and see if that fixes my issues. Have never had a check engine light tho but its always had this issue since I owned the car so its never had knock sensor loom.

alright ill try do that, i just did a ecu diagnostics and got code 34 which is knock sensor

yeah i suspect fuel pump or the regulator, i was told to block off the regulator return and see if problem still happens

havent checked for fault codes as dont have the right reader for r32 dont think its a boost leak as boost doesnt fall off or anything

Hey, im having an issue with my rb20det before 4k revs it felt very boggy and then after 4k revs it felt fine till 6k then it felt like it had no power it has a 25det gearbox and a r34 neo turbo fmic 3inch exhuast ive tried to turn boost up and down didnt do anything ive also tried resetting timing and the timing was off but now its set but its become worse where if it gets any boost at all if just boggs down have no idea what this could be or what to even look up any help is appreciated

thats the plan ? like i said the guy before me just ran 98 and he was trying to blow his engine he said 2 years of 18psi and going hard it didnt blow

destroy the engine and ill drop a 25 in I guess, everyone keeps saying the blow up engines but anyone got any links that i can read?

the guy before me had it running for 2 years on 18psi trying to blow his engine as he had a 25 to drop in, i got gtr injectors and the ecu for a total of $212 just cant afford a standalone ecu atm, i will eventually get a haltech

noone where i live tunes nistune otherwise would have been first choice, guy who had the ecu before me used it for 2 years ill get a afr gauge to make sure it doesnt run lean and just see how it goes

i got it 2nd hand and the setup will be the same and the guy who had it before me was using it for ages, are they that bad? guess ill find out when i set it all up

why do you suggest that? i have already purchased the ecu and gtr injectors i got it for $100 which is the price of a rb20 ecu anyways. im not after anything great its just i have a 34 neo turbo and the car already runs rich so im hoping this ecu will fix that and also have some power gains due to gtr injectors

yeah sweet, can i order the resistor online or are they 2nd hand only?

yeah that would be awesome is there a tutorial on where and how to wire it in? or can you pm me? thank you

okay awesome will figure out how to do that ?

Hi all, i am buying a mines tuned ecu for very cheap aswell as some gtr injectors and z32 afm i was told the ecu has been tuned for 444cc gtr injectors 18psi and a z32 afm so i was wondering if the injectors as i read somewhere that i need to add a resistor would i need to add that to my current loom if the ecu is already tuned for gtr injectors? thank you very much

nevermind it was a popped an intercooler piping hose dont know how i didnt see that but its fixed now lol

hi, not sure if right place to post this but i recently bought a 89 r32 gtst with a rb20det that has been sitting for a few months did oil and coolant change. a few days ago i saw one of the injectors leaking so my friend gave me 6 new ones and i installed them and it ran great i drove it around the street a few times was going good then i gave it a little and it spluttered a little took it home then trying to get it up the driveway it kept stalling and just tonnes of black smoke, it also wouldnt rev above 1.5k while clutch was disengaged but it free revved fine. so i did the sparkplugs and it drove fine again but wouldnt go above 10psi as it kept misfiring as the sparkplugs werent gapped so i gapped them then last night drove it around was going fine then when i gave it some it misfired or spluttered and it did the same thing black smoke and wouldnt go above 1.5k revs while clutch disengaged but free revved fine so i rolled it home and today i go to try start the car to get it up my driveway and now it wouldnt start so i tried jump starting it and it started and ran for 20seconds then stalled and it did that twice sorry for the long wall of text just thought to try explain everything has fmic r33 gtst gearbox and rb25det neo turbo but stock everything else from what i can tell i have a video of when i gave the car a little and it started to die if that helps anyone ? thank you very much received_1337215006453078.mp4