1400r

please return skylines keys to sau HQ you have forfeited your right to own it by posting this thread

the turbo housing is divided into two section completely sep from each other on the turbo side of the dump it has a smaller pipe weld into it so when fitted upto the turbo it pushes inside and seals even more his using a copper crush gasket the actuator seems to be wrong for the application seeing as you cant preload the crap out of it at full tight it is maybe half a cm away from the arm at the arms full closed postion this would also mean you'd have to bleed off a yeap of air via the boost controler to get the correct boost (assuming its not running close the boost level you want just using the arm as it is) I say buggar it and run it up again

got a 33 gtr box meant to be s3 it is in good condition however not broken or anything so not sure if thats what your after?

arm was being held closed by me etc while huddy was checking under the car for leaking

Option 2 remove safc get hks fcd and set up on a dyno my old 32 ran 230rwkw with stock ecu maps just fcd stock inj

bah!

good buy warranty if you let it get hot

25de head in a gtr ?

Ive got a set of 34 gtr cams if you want them

fuel cut or misfire redo plug gap and if no fuel cut removal mods lower the boost till you do easy

quick question who is making over 260rwkw still running standard cams, springs and plenum? please list forum names (for contact) and mods if you know Ive had a look through this thread and also the rb20 turbo upgrade thread already not sure if people are leaving off plenum mods or if they havent got any basically Im after soild over 260 figs to count out high reading dyno's seems alot of guys are hitting the 250-260 not may going over that though the only one I know of is the one my work bought in full drap setup stroker with 26 plenum mod'd for q45 tb t78 full step 3 head job or if you prefer whats the limit of standard 20 head and plenum?

price drop

make sure if your getting the intact pipe welded up there's no slag left inside

got exhaust and stock sus in SA

remove z32 wiring and start the car again technically undo what you did that caused the problem

drift shop does them to

Ive got no hicas stuff left in my car at all hicas lines removed and redirected in the engine bay, s13 on hicas rear craddle and hicas computer unpluged in the boot to get rid of the light I also get heavy steering sometimes (not every time I drive for longer than 5 min) however I think it may be the little solenoid on the steering rack itself as when I did the 25 swap I had to redo the wires to it and just crimped them together ( I know ) other than that the only thing I can try is plugging the hicas computer back in and cutting the orange wire (Salad's "how to" on NS) to get rid of the light and see if that makes a difference

my mate recently came back from QL with the gold twin turbo rb20 laurel seems to go ok had to do a quick fix on the ecu and use my tomei remap to get it running better The standard ecu didnt like q45 afm and gtr inj, lucky the remap was for 555cc inj, z32 and trust td06 19c so it idle's and runs well enough for him to take it to the track for sat drift prac it will be good to see it once its had a tune

bump through me a offer

the ones with YO Sr20 are normally American fakes (although those look semi really) if you want non gay real jap plates try here www.kansaiautomotive.com

S1 r33 is same type i.e push or pull as R32 you sure your 33 box is different

got one

or remove the rear fan blades so your pump doesnt end up dieing in the near future

rolling alloy gtr front guards ? have fun

gotta a type H in box brand new $195