1400r

yes, yes I am why? afr are in the 10's it should be fine

I'd say give it a go seeing as you have a spare actuator although mine still only hits .7 bar at around 3,500 before climbing to .9 bar at 5,000 rpm (2nd gear) whats yours like now? when you drove softy's ceffy did it feel much different. Ring me if you want you can take my car for a blat and see what you think? BD4's did advertise the hks acutators for $218 in one of my old mags so its not a lot of money to buy one of those instead?

Thanks Cubes I would like to get it on the dyno again now that the boost is coming on earlier. Ive just started a new job though and will be working most Saturdays but I'll see what I can do. Lag is a good thing most of the time but I was getting sick of running people(r33 and a statesman the other day) and having them drive past me while waiting for boost sucked. 10psi at 3,000 rpm sounds good on that dyno run I didnt hit 10 psi till almost 7,000 rpm

I had a chat with my boss today and from that I worked out that the hks actuator needed to be a lot tighter than the factory one so I fixed it up and boost(.9 bar) now hit real hard at 3,500 rpm (2 nd gear) The cars now making enough air flow to hit the factory fuel cut on 3rd gear role on's at just over 3,500 however boost was spiking to 1 bar as it was damn cold. Funny thing was after two go's at the cut on the third go (to show a guy in a ceffy on the way home) it didnt cut so I tried again still didnt cut? any ideas?

make sure your still running the factory black hoses of the actuator

"i shouold be able to get similar kw;s do you. you recon?" with a gtrs you should easily reach the same power figure as me probably more. I have get a FCD soon though I was hitting the fuel cut on the way home as it was a bit cold and the boost was spiking to 1 bar

just one quick question was the 301rwkw made with pump fuel? I like the paint job oh and very well done (massive clapping of my hands) for you not putting a gtr badge on it ( Im serious I hate that sh$t)

Thanks cubes for the info so do you think Darren's engine would be a na25 head on a det25 bottom end? as Ive read that it retains the 32 style ecu.

second dyno pic

first dyno pic

Well got my 32 on the dyno today made 170rwkw on 11psi AFR was in the low 10's. Very rich Im told morpowa dude used a bleeder on my adjustable fuel reg to see how it would respond to leaner ratio's he got it up into the 11's very floaty ratio's though made an extra 5kw. It was running less than stock pressure Im told 32psi mine was on 29psi fuel pressure He then advanced the timing from stockish to 20 or so degree's ended up making 179.7 yippee not basically gotta get fcd, remap or FC it's still a laggy beast it wasnt hit peak boost 10psi till the very top of third gear. Im alot happier with the wau it drives now though with the extra timing Im thinking the hks adjustable wastegate may be able to be tightened up a little more as I thought they were supposed to run 12 psi standard.This may help it build boost quicker but it is already alot tighter than the standard wastegate Something is wrong with the turbo or the wastegate I reckon it should really hit peak boost alot earlier and then hold it to redline. theres a small dip on the boost curve to at around .5 bar . Im going to show my boss tomorow and see what he thinks. Anyway there goes the whole "stock inj running out at 155 rwkw" thing guys as mine was running less than stock FP, stock Inj, stock comp and was still very rich at 170 so I think once sorted I should be able to make over 200rwkw with my current combo and remap or fc I wish I could work out how to post up scanned images up Im on 56k so it takes for ever for it to tell me to get stuffed

thanks but my mate has all the info he needs to build the 3lt it seems there's not much info flying round about the rb20 to rb25 conv hopefully Darren Appleton will get back to me about the parts used in his engine.

Ive got stuff before from him he seemed ok when I spoke to him. Spell it out to him that you want to bolt it on your self hmm guess it's bit hard when he's not answering you though. found this for you on NS maybe go this way similar price http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=112264

gt28rs would be garretts answer to hks 2510-2530 it will do 200-220 rwkw so 300ish hp atw u did want 300 at the wheels right so 400ish hp at the engine?. Find out if you need the braided line kit or if your stock lines will fit up if the stock lines will fit dont bother buying the kit. Also have a look at the ebay turbo thread as the prices seem very good

I'd say the gt28rs is similar to gtrs but its not the same turbo probably just a similar Garretts version I'd ask if your stock water/oil metal lines will fit up or if you need the braided lines if not dont bother getting them you. Did you tell horsepowerinabox that you only want 300hp? the gt28rs I found was a 350hp version?

yes you will need a new clutch the gearbox should be fine for awhile as long as its in ok nik I'd say ones you get over 250 rwkw (round the same with a sr) you will start breaking g/boc fairly quickly

Nice one I spoke to the my other half last night and she didnt like the Matt black style so I cant do it buggar. I say go for it that and fit a 1J too I loved the sound of Izumada's(?) old 200

Hi guys this may have been covered so sorry if it has but a mate is looking to buying a complete rb25de from a 32 then taking the head only and building a 3lt Im wondering if I can steal (borrow) the bottom end to build a rb25det for my 32 while retain my head sensors etc so I can still get a remap cheap. Seeing as my mate wants to build a rb30det I figure he could probably easily put together the 25 for me I understand it wouldnt have oil squirters? but should I also change the piston to rb25det stock items. Basical I want a engine similar to Darren Appletons laurel's and I think this is probably the way it was built? It sounds like a cheap option to get some extra torque but if it would end up costing heaps then I wont bother. Thanks

What comes in the kit? flyn seen the ad on n.s have gtr-s for $2500 if you really want one. Any bolt on job turbo shouldnt require any stuffing around ie welding. The ones of horse power in a box use your standard turbo for the rear housing (I think) or a rb25 housing or vg30 so it should be a bolt on job. At the end of the day what power level do you want? no point spending 3 grand if you dont have to. Oh hey fast fours has a r33 in it with a gtr-s its making 301 rwkw on 1.4 bar I'll give them my asshat if that it was made on pump fuel though

www.kansaiautomotive have gtr coolers and a gtr ASE alloy Rad?

try www.kansaiautomotive.com they have a few set's of coilovers maybe 33 stuff

inark I saw your new car on D1NZ you shouldn't be complaining! tough I really like that other 32 to the matt Black 4 door too

ecu's retarding the timing? or your trying to drive a pancake again?

quick guess your not using the standard actuator to compressor hose?(this is my pet excuss for everything now) You should try and keep it if you can. My 2530 ran .7 bar through the stock cooler just like my standard turbo did.

contact horse power in a box he has them (bolton Garrett turbos for rb20) for around $1890 and fit it your self you big girlie girl he he jk if I can fit a 2530 you can fit a bolt on turbo trust $1100 is a lot of money for something you can do yourself.