1400r

were are u? at four brothers imports in Adelaide had two 4 doors burnt awhile ago and may have a spare cross member look em up. I have never heard that there different though see if you can find a four door and a two door and line them up and stick your head under them both.

if its going to end up costing over or close to $500 I will just buy some s/h sard inj or something I was just looking for a cheaper option its not look goog though

Thanks why does the dyno stop at around 5,500 rpm if you dont mind me asking the curve looks like it might be leveling out is that why? Its just my car seems to keep pulling all the way to the rev limiter I have rev'ed it that hard for fear of blowing something up. What boost were you running

just had a quick google and it seems non turbo's are 250cc turbo's are 370cc. It may still be doable cheaply if a CA resistor ballast will do the job.

really damn so I could run det Ca inj but Id have to run the resistor block from a gtr as well?

B) I have read that CA injectors are high imp top feed 370cc injectors and that rb's are 270 cc top feed high imp I know it would only be a small increase but I wonder if they would flow enough to support over 200rwkw seeing as people swap gtr inj into ca just like they do to rb20's I think they may be a easier swap than rx7 or gtr injectors plus I think I should be able to get some for free off ca freaks who have done upgrades when do ca inj run out of puff what kw atw? 170ish? that would mean 370cc can flow 42.50 kw per inj so 6 ca would be 255 rw kw? even if they run out at 150 rwkw on a ca they would still be able to support 225 rw kw unless Im really bad at maths which I am so Im more than likely wrong.

thanks sydneykid I have got a walbro pump in though would that make much difference?

whats the max rwkw I could make with the standard factory tune Im only hoping to make 170ish safely for the moment till I get a remap and bigger inj and whats the max boost you would run with the standard ecu I was thinking around 1 bar or less assuming I get it on the dyno to check the fuel ratio's are ok.

what about those high flowed injectors u see in the back of hot 4s and zoom mags anyone tried these out?

really maybe I need a tune as well?

Thanks guys it seems mines fine then I may still need to get the spring checked as it seems to hesitate at .5 bar before continuing on to .7 bar I fitted up my Walbro last night it seemed to make the power come on a little more smoothly feels like it's making 170 rwkw ish it feels easily as quick as my old 180 did (which made 169 and its a heavier car I think I may need to get my cooler put on asap rather than waiting till next pay day though as Im a little worried that it feel's so quick

thanks guys turns out one of the pipes of the intercooler was loose once I fixed that up it held .7 bar again still feels fairly laggy though but from what Ive read in the other posts it seems about right. Thanks for your help

cool thanks but I was after info on rb20 cars with 2530's thanks for making me want a rb25

sorry say full boost is 1 bar

trying to work out if mine laggy or not as it seems to only start making boost at around 2,800 rpm nothing below that?

come on someones gotta know were else I can hook the other end of the wastegate line to bov? some where else on the intake manifold?

help I took the connection of the front of the stock turbo and put it on the 2530 as it had a alan key bolt blocking up the normal hole. So I could hook the old wastegate hose up to the same as the stock turbo setup now it only boosts to .4 bar whats going on is the wastegate stuffed? it felt fairly loose before I put the turbo on now Ive got to stuff around with it again and put it back the way it was buggar

not really not that I can tell it still sticks out the back not heaps though

Put my new(s/h) 2530 on my car (R32 4 door RB20Det) today all went well until I discovered the turbo does not have a inlet on the front of it for the line that comes from the wastegate like on the stock turbo. So I connected it by Ting one of the carbon cannisters lines is this ok? it seems to only start making any boost till 2,800 rpm and full stock boost .7 bar doesnt hit till 3,500 this seems right to me but I thought it would start spooling earlier as the stocko seems to start spooling start away. Please keep in mind that my car is very much a stock just exhaust and filter at the moment. Do I also need to keep the small stock hose as Im just using a longer section of fuel hose at the moment Im assuming the stock hose has a restrictor in it? (my 180 had one) It pulls very hard compared to the stock turbo up high Any help would be great thanks HELP!

ant 2 door exhaust will do the job I know casue its what Ive got on my 32 4 door $350 for s/h jap exhuast

www.kansaiautomotive.com has some and a garrett upgrade

www.kansaiautomotive.com have a bolt on garrett turbo and also 2530's on there website at the moment both should do 210 +

FBI did mine for $1500ish

Im putting my 2530 on this weekend and installing a walbro pump but I wont have my cooler done till a few weeks later can anyone give me an idea of how much more power if any I will make running it on stock boost compared to the stock turbo. Thanks

regency will simply see the big metal pipe thats is not normaly on a 32 and jump to the wild conclusion that its not standard. I have read the post twice before and I am aware I need a lock bar I have already bought one hence the reason for saying that the guy on sau selling them should also sell a metal pipe to loop the hicas with it. I was only aware of a Tomei HICAS locking kit for a 33 not a 32 if the topic mentions one great but Ive already shelled out for the lock bar which I cant fit without going to what seems to be a lot of trouble? dont worry about it I'll have a stuff around with it myself without doing anything I cant put back to standard.