1400r

As I said in my post I have already read the post and last time it didnt answer the question I asked. No need to get off but I dont want to go to all the trouble and cost of buy parts and swapping stuff over if there is a easier way such as looping the system. Last time I checked almost every mod you do to your car can be defected these days and I'd rather be able to put my car back to stock easily then have to go through all the bother of swapping stuff back over casue the guy at regency noticed it looked different.

do I really have to read all that again has it been updated with info on a how to loop a 32 last time it didnt have info on a 32 only a 33 then it went through how to remove the whole lot on a 32 gtr I only want to loop it for now so I can put it back to stock if and when I get defected again thanks though

Ive heard/read that by blocking the lines you can stuff the pump so how and were do you loop the system on a 32 pics would be nice. I dont really want to use a rubber hose as this may split under pressure has anyone made a nice metal u bend with fittings up that I can buy (maybe lockbar selling guy should include this as well with his kit)

front seats do

Cool we have different opinions then yippee I was under the impression since a lot of people are running around with stock ecu anmd stock fuel pumps making 170 atw with just a front mount and a exhaust then mine would be fine at stock boost making around 150 atw but I see your point I guess the dyno will let me know. I never seem to get the cash together to buying the big expensive (well to me) items so I thought Id get them first this time plus I can sell my stock turbo for a couple of hundred bucks as it will be in good nick having only ever run it on stock boost and low km that way I can get my cooler piping ( I have already bought a gtr cooler I just havent got the piping yet) then Ive only got fuel pump (170) ecu remap 330? and injectors 600 ish? to get

Im asking for trouble running stock boost some how I doubt that my 180 ran 12psi all day everyday stock no fmic no fuel pump no computer with no problems and dont skyline's run rich in factory tune. I was hoping for around 140ish rwkw max anyway so I'll dyno it and go from there. I may get a warblo if the pumps leaning out. Thanks

just slaping it on I will get a dyno run done just to make sure the fuel pumps not stuffed and the timings right

Im picking up my 2530 Sat hopefully and I was going to put it straight on my 32 at the moment Ive only got 3 inch exhaust and a pod what sort of power increase should I expect if any over standard? Thanks

Terry from Kansai has a container turning up friday Ive been told (final get my 2530 n sus) they should probably have one in there or I heard someone talking about christian having a few spares around (I dont know how true this is or what nick there in?)

please pm me your banking details for payment thanks

dude 215 brand new from bd4's according to an old hpi mag I was reading last night

no Adz dont go to the dark side anyway dont fbi have a sic (so Trev said) blue ceffy coming in soon?

got defected Friday 10th June for my Nardi(what utter crap) pulled all my gear of the following day( I got it stock so I had most of the standard gear to put back on) booked my car in for the 13 July and found out I couldnt renew my rego bummer no car for a month (seemed little crap to me) Terry from Kansai Automotive pulled some strings and managed to find me a appointment at 8am Sat 18th June morning went down regency guy was great my rear seatbelts didnt seem to want to work he offered to let me go to the compliance joint (5 min away) quickly to change them over then he had a thought and swapped them over and they worked no probs. Big guy Glass goaty he was awesome in and out in 20min My suggestion is be nice and make sure your cars stock ( I dont understand tyring to take a car with mods on it still no wonder it takes a month to get in) and you wont have any probs (hopefully) I still never want to have to go back though.

wild guess your turbo's surging as the rear wheel is to small this would account for the change in boost. Put the standard turbo back on and see if it hold boost any better it will probably end up making the same sort of power.

the vac line seemed to suck when I took it of not blow as it would need to hold the bov closed? however this was only at idle so it may change under load. Im messing with as it seems to be leaking (opening and closing at idle) when I took the plumb back hose off.

bypassed my stock bov on my 32 the other day and it made the nice flutter noise but would only hit .5 bar not the normal .7 bar with it hooked up to bypass I stuck a bolt in the vac line leading to the top of the bov. Also when I tried to run the bov as non plumb back it would open and close at idle? once replumbed it was fine again. Any idea did I bypass the stock bov wrong I could make up a plate if that what I need to do my mate cefiro runs no bov at all and it boosts easily to .7

please pm me the details thanks

fitted a n1 style exhaust from a 2 door the other day on my 4 door case closed. By the way to the guy that paid someone to modify the exhaust go get your money back!

u still got the front guards?

please read my post in the gen section about idle problem I fixed my IAC last night and it cleared up my idle problems give that a go plus clean the aac thing as well do a search jobs not hard just take it slow to make sure you dont break anything good luck

took the iac valve out last night it was out of wack so I fixed it up and all is good now throttle is sticking again though gotta check that out thanks guys

how do i check tps? I just lined up the painted lines shouldnt the ecu adjustment be doing something?

my r32 seems to not want to idle below 2,000 rpm originally my throttle body would stick when the idle pin was screwed in( too lower the idle below 2,000 rpm) I have replaced the throttle body and it no longer sticks but still sits at 2,000 rpm. I have gone through idle adjustment procedure and the ecu section seems to do nothing on my car and the valve control only lowers it to 1,500 rpm or so. I then cleaned the valve as suggested by others this seemed to work for a little while(sat at 1,200 rpm) as the car warmed up it rose very slowly back up to 2,000 rpm. Please help ps my car was auto to start with but idled at 2,000rpm in park then too.

My mates in Sydney and has a late mod wrx I let him know looks sweet

Ive got dodgey trim ones out of a 89 32? in Adelaide