joshuaho96

This must be my problem, I can smell fuel in the driver rear wheel well sometimes.

In the US people definitely take photos. It's a lot of attention. I personally don't care but I drive pretty cautiously.

The best part is the aluminum replacements are also junk with a ton of casting flash threatening to break off. Only safe solution is toss and buy OEM new if in doubt, if the cage ever comes off BMW says to replace the whole part instead of putting it back together. Also only use the right oil filter wrench and only snug it down, never attempt to actually torque it once the cap is fully threaded into the housing.

I don't own one but at this point I've done more than my fair share of work on one.

That crappy plastic cage is the difference between an engine that works and one that mysteriously has half the lifters fail, cam journals scored, and VANOS mechanically stuck faults because all the oil pressure leaked out of the stupid cam ledge bearings. Also, the difference between the right oil filter and the wrong one. I don't know why BMW is like this. Their engines are incredibly sensitive to the slightest thing being wrong.

Sure, but you could just pull enough timing out of the map to make it idle at whatever RPM you want. Or close the throttle until it's about to bind to compensate for vacuum leaks.That's kind of why I'm not a fan of this approach, especially if OP isn't experienced at tuning these things.

Sure, but personally I'm a big fan of when you have a problem, don't make it harder to diagnose by changing more variables all at once.

You definitely have a big problem if with the adjustment screw closed up you're idling at 1200 rpm. Have you verified you have no vacuum leaks? No throttle shaft seal leaks? Nobody has messed with the throttle body set screws? I would love to see what Consult reports when your engine is idling that high.

HICAS has a much more complicated circuit diagram, for some reason the R32 GTR service manual discusses both. The HICAS module has proper 2 way communication over consult, the "EPS control unit" doesn't have any of that and only exposes a raw analog voltage for the EPS solenoid valve. It's ultimately mostly about speed sensitive steering but the non-HICAS unit also looks at the neutral switch/brake/clutch switch to adjust how it provides assist.

I don't know if this is accurate. The EPC places the EPS control unit somewhere in the engine bay or somewhere in the interior near the firewall, presumably because the things it's controlling mostly live up in the front of the car unlike HICAS which has a whole steering rack on the rear axle to handle. @D.phantom The R32 GTR manual actually has more than I give credit for talking about the non-HICAS cars: You can probe the pins on the diagnostic connector directly to read the EPS solenoid voltage as far as I can tell following the flow chart.

I don't have the full R32 factory service manual so I don't really know how to help you here but there is an EPS control module that modulates the EPS solenoid, marked C or 28500 in this diagram. The R32 GTR service manual floating around mentions it should be about 4.4-6.6V between the diagnostic connector and solenoid valve at 0 kph, then 1.5-2.2V at 60 mph, it also has the no HICAS equipped variant connector mentioned:

Pull the codes. I have seen a code 21 for primary ignition circuit fault on these conversions for some reason, I'm not sure exactly how the ECU decides this either.

If your working theory is that air is getting into the fuel hose and those air bubbles are causing lean-outs it would run horribly at first or most likely no-start until the air is purged. Also, if your fuel hose isn't sealing too well more likely it will manifest as a fuel leak, not air leaking into the system. I would be suspect of the gas station potentially having dirt intrusion in their underground tanks if you think it's the fuel filter causing a fuel pressure drop that causes lean-out. Fuel pressure has to be measured under load or you have to take a delta measurement at different points in the circuit if the idea of getting the car to a dyno or running a hose all the way from under the hood into the cabin and having one person check fuel pressure while the other drives is unpleasant.

Yeah, if he has one lying around you could send yours in on an exchange basis.

Contact Matt at Nistune. If the wiring on the ECU has been messed with in order to get certain outputs like launch control, flex fuel, and boost control you might need to change it back to make it work normally again.