joshuaho96

You're not wrong but 5W30 at 100C is like 10 cSt vs 25 cSt for 10W60. If we think in terms of viscosity margin 10W60 will probably still be ok at 130C but 5W30 is probably too little. It's absolutely shocking how hot the oil gets in something like a stock FL5 from only ~3 minutes of use on the Nordschleife. I would not risk taking a car like that to anything remotely intense without a ton of work done for cooling. Heat shielding on the manifold/turbo/downpipe, oil coolers, etc.

Sounds like the rack seals blew.

ZF8 is faster, wider ratio spread, better in every way. I do not dispute this. But I have brain damage and I want the feeling of shifting gears. To me the extra work is fun, but I daily an automatic and in the US like 90+% of cars are automatic so a manual transmission is an "exotic" experience. If I want an automatic I've driven an F80 M3 with DCT more than a few times and it's incredibly capable but it's emotionally vacant to me.

The trouble for me is the automatic takes away so much from it. And the E92 has hydraulic power steering. Even after putting in an LSD you're looking at re-mapping the xDrive to be more like a Skyline which is just a lot of effort for something that is supposed to be easier and cheaper. I consider the E92 335i 6MT to basically be the obviously superior car to something like an R34 GTT. Half the price out here, the N54 makes so much more power so easily, is a far more refined car, etc. You do have to deal with the nightmare of the N54's foibles vs the B58 which is comparatively miles better and if a turbo does fail it's only one of them vs two and a lot less pipe spaghetti. 996 or 997 Turbo has the AWD system mapped like a Skyline. Basically always RWD unless engaging the front axle makes sense. A coworker let me drive his 997.2 Turbo 6MT and it's absolutely tremendous. I don't think I'd want more power in a street car.

Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.

It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless

They aren't, but it depends on what interests you about an R32-R34. If it's the front engine I6 turbo that tunes well with a manual transmission an E92 335i 6MT is so incredibly cheap. You can get a super clean one for 20-25k USD tops. Put an LSD in it, tune it, have fun with it. If it's the general idea of AWD + turbo and a manual transmission the 996 Turbo is absolutely much more expensive, it's less practical but it's also basically a complete track-ready car from the factory. At least the Mezger doesn't have heaps of oil control issues. And in the US the 996 Turbo and R33 GTR are roughly the same price these days. 996 maybe a bit more now that the hype has abated for old Skylines here.

If you can get heat to it somehow that and penetrating oil will do wonders. Induction bolt heater, whatever it is.

I frequently tell people interested in buying a GTR to either pick a 996 Turbo or E92 335i 6MT. Either one is close enough to being what you wanted from a GTR while being much, much cheaper. I just have brain damage and had to have one anyways.

I really hope those injectors work for you. I have recently heard from another person with an RB20DET about how they cannot get their car to idle at all and they are tearing their hair out. I never really knew what the issue was but to me it had to be either the ECU or fuel injector. Suddenly on the wideband after sitting in closed loop idle for a bit it would lean out and stall.

I tell people all the time this stuff runs on a 2 MHz 8-bit MCU. The math is a bit arcane, they do a lot to get around their limited resolution and so on but it works great as-shipped. So if an 80 to 160 MHz modern 32-bit MCU can't make it work you've really screwed something up badly. Your average graphing calculator is faster these days, god forbid we start talking about what's hiding in vapes or some stupid internet-connected "smart appliance". I suspect the lore about off-throttle surge damaging turbos must be very, very old if it was ever true. I still don't think off throttle surge is good for turbos because you're rapidly having air going in and out of the turbo on top of rapid loss in shaft speed which presumably does impart some kind of unusual load on the rotating assembly. As for the recirculating valve, I believe Nissan actually in a press slide deck of some kind explained for the RZ34 they found it improved response. Prior to that they kept the throttle cracked open instead which causes rev hang and because the throttle/engine is a substantial restriction a ton of the energy in the air stream is lost just to pumping past it. Recirculating helps reduce energy loss by bringing the intake side of the compressor up in pressure so it's not working as hard to pull air in. In DCT cars where they can slam gears I believe Porsche hangs the throttle wide open with no fuel injection to keep turbo RPMs as high as possible during the shift. As for running post-throttle boost source, I would be concerned that at partial throttle on boost you would have driveability issues. It would be constantly trying to run crazy amounts of boost before the throttle to compensate for the throttling effect. Maybe with a much more sophisticated boost control setup you could activate a solenoid that goes from a conventional 3-port setup to something that allows the wastegates to see full vacuum in that specific case?

New engine block time. Up to you whether you want to keep going down this road with this project. Unfortunately a lot of these cars are like this. The road to getting these cars into decent shape is long and not fun for reasons that you're discovering.

Pinout is different to my knowledge, but you should confirm to be sure. Also you will need to adjust the VQ table in Nistune to suit. I would still recommend sticking with recirculating BOVs, I'm not sure if the R35 card MAF will fully resolve stalling caused by reversion/throttle lift.

Even with no BOV you will have issues unless the MAF is a hot film type like the R35 which has some design features to deal with reversion. Hot wire MAFs are very sensitive.

I mean, given the number of BMWs you own their tolerance for improper torque is rather low. The number of torque + angle spec bolts and non-reusable bolts in one is nuts.

Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.

I was under the impression the reason why OEMs are going with solutions like relatively thin "right-sized" cylinder walls with technologies like PTWA and open deck is because they care a lot about whatever marginal knock margin benefits they get from that vs the structural rigidity benefits of a closed deck block and thicker cylinder walls. I also see some weird stuff like plastic inserts in the water jacket around the cylinders to try and equalize cylinder wall temperatures. re: the PRP blocks and heads at the end of the day it's hard to know what is and isn't going to work there, just have to see what the initial buyers say about it.

https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild.

Running rich in conditions where it shouldn't probably won't do great things for catalytic converter lifespan. I would fix that sooner than later.

Yes, just throw some gaskets at it and put it back in. As long as everything is actually designed to bolt up together it will all go back together. My CA compliant exhaust for example can only fit with the specific catback I gave them.

96+ can have one retrofitted, cut the slot in the evaporator box as others have said. Lay down a plastic tarp and have a vacuum handy while you cut.

If you do go through with it and try to engineer it to be vaguely ok on the street I would love to hear about how it goes for you.

48521-23U25 doesn't seem impossible to find outside of amayama: https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-front-steering-rack-tie-rod-fits-nissan-r33-gts-4-r34-gt-4-c34-stagea-25tx-four-rs-four-rs-four-v?currency=USD I would order it from Amayama and see what happens.

Looks like 08120-62033 to me?

If the slightly higher internal EGR caused by a high flow cat causes detonation your tuner was way, way, way too aggressive to begin with. Timing scatter is a problem unless you go to a crank trigger, winter vs summer blend has different octane, list goes on.