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joshuaho96

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Everything posted by joshuaho96

  1. joshuaho96
    Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
  2. joshuaho96
    Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
  3. joshuaho96
    Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
  4. joshuaho96
    That's basically how I've been driving my R33 for a while now. GTIII-SS running wastegate boost. It makes no more power than stock because the turbos aren't flowing any more air than stock. Eventually though I need to fix this so it can actually drive as it should.
  5. joshuaho96
    Run a 7 psi wastegate and wastegate boost and it might be ok on the stock ECU. Basically you cannot run past the last load cell by a significant margin.
  6. joshuaho96
    If there's no stutter in fuel pressure when the issue occurs then I'm not sure it's the fuel system necessarily. Do you have any Nistune logs when the issue occurs?
  7. joshuaho96
    Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
  8. joshuaho96
    Stories like this are why the immobilizer installs I've done are 100% reversible. No harness cuts.
  9. joshuaho96
    Lots of people. Could be a lot of things like people have said. Either the heater hose/pipe, the turbo coolant return that wraps around the back of the engine, or a core plug. I have seen all three. If you want me to guess wildly though I would bet it's one of those hoses for the turbo coolant return. Or the brazing/welding for the Y- section has failed. Get a borescope down there to be 100% sure.
  10. joshuaho96
    I think yeah less hot fuel dumping into the top of the tank that wants to evaporate easily, fewer connections/hoses for permeation. Something like that. Also lower cost/easier production. Even my 2000 LS400/Celsior is a deadhead system. A single fuel hose to the fuel rails which have pulsation dampers attached and no return line.
  11. joshuaho96
    A lot of things we think of as recent are not that recent. Dead head to my knowledge was being done by the early 2000s for evaporative emissions reasons. CARB drove a lot of this with their PZEV requirements.
  12. joshuaho96
    The OEM disk will not work on any AEM ECU, you need to use the one they made. You shouldn't have to flip the CAS or whatever you were describing, if you set the ignition sync offset correctly it can't backfire. Make sure you're using a spark plug lead on coil 1 instead of the timing loop to avoid weird issues with the timing light. Double check that your timing settings are actually correct, like is the 24 tooth configured correct or should it actually be 12 teeth for 1 crank revolution? I also found this: 305817248-AEM-Undocumented-Settings-v1-2.pdf
  13. joshuaho96
    I know on some cars it's explicitly endorsed in the service manual but a lot of them it isn't which is what gives me pause. I know a lot of cars also have you jack up the car by the radiator core support which is a lot easier to get to than some crazy deep section of the front subframe. I'm just reluctant to find out if any of that is really safe to do if not listed in the service manual. The FK8 has even the R-chassis beat in this regard, the front subframe jack point is almost fully behind the front tires and is surprisingly recessed into the car.
  14. joshuaho96
    I wouldn't trust the tow hook to hold. I would rather use a floor jack on the pinch welds. Honestly, I think your best bet at this point is quickjacks or similar.
  15. joshuaho96
    Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
  16. joshuaho96
    On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
  17. joshuaho96
    It's been quite the ordeal but hey, at least you figured it out.
  18. joshuaho96
    How would you even adjust the clutch if the pedal already has the correct free play? The operating cylinder has no adjustment in mounting position or rod length. On pull style clutches there is also no ability to adjust the bearing carrier. Push type I can see how adjusting the carrier height makes it all work. If this is the twin plate clutch did you verify that your friction disks were oriented correctly? It's not mentioned in the directions at all you just have to notice that one side the friction disks have a part number on the hub fingers and a subtle coning to those fingers. Another thing that I noticed was if you put the friction disks in backwards the pressure plate fingers will not be even and flat when the clutch is installed.
  19. joshuaho96
    All of this is making it seem clear that running the Coppermix twin was definitely the way to go, especially in hindsight with how insane tariffs have gotten and the strength of the USD vs yen at the time.
  20. joshuaho96
    No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
  21. joshuaho96
    Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same.
  22. joshuaho96
    It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
  23. joshuaho96
    Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
  24. joshuaho96
    I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
  25. joshuaho96
    As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
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