joshuaho96

I figure a year isn't that long these days for a thread bump. How do I undo ridiculously tight rear driveshaft bolts? I bought a 6 point box end wrench and a dedicated wrench extender, I've tried heat + penetrating oil. What's the next step if all of that fails? Do I use a dremel to try and cut open the nut?

What about cases like the BMW S65/S85 where part of the rod bearing wear issue is crazy tight? Obviously the real solution is to just run slightly oversize bearing clearance vs OEM but I've also seen people suggest lower viscosity oil compared to the 10W60 Castrol TWS BMW specced from the factory.

Unplugging the wastegate solenoid should be wastegate pressure. Do not unplug the vacuum lines, leaving it at atmosphere will cause a big overboost event.

IMG_7438.HEICIMG_7436.HEICIMG_7435.HEIC Not sure why these images refuse to be uploaded in jpeg format but that's the way it goes. Basically runs just to the right of the brake lines, up and around the top side of the front of the fuel tank, makes a turn and heads back at the corner, then the last bit goes straight up near the wheel well into the trunk.

What specific car is this? I know for sure my R33 has a rubber sealing gasket on the cap. Not unusual to get a bit of seepage from it either.

If there's no rubber gasket you need a new cap. There should be a rubber gasket, depending on the car. If you are driving the car hard and the power steering is getting hot it will spit out of the reservoir. I have seen people tap the cap for a hose + overflow catch bottle placed somewhere that it will fit.

Oil pan gasket is 31397-41X04. Strainer assembly is 31728-4AX00. You can look at this yourself: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/skyline/er34/3945-rb25det/trans/317 and https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/skyline/er34/3945-rb25det/trans/311 Checking online the actual picture of the OEM filter looks like this:

Even though technically best practice is to put it as close to the compressor outlet as possible on the RB26 the pressure source for the wastegates is well after the intercooler just before the ITBs.

Nissan Datascan 1 works well for logging this stuff. I use it all the time. It is a godsend compared to old Toyotas or other OBD1 cars that have zero ECU output over the diagnostic connector. It's super helpful to know what the ECU is actually seeing/commanding at any given moment.

As others have said it is technically controlled in the sense that the ECU turns on the fuel pump which also turns this thing on. Other than that there is no real control. So you could in theory do something stupid like repeatedly prime the pump without starting the engine and that would cause the shutter to close and the cold start idle to be too low. I believe the NEO series might have a thermostat controlled cold start valve instead but I've never been able to disassemble the idle valve. Not wrong, but the actual physical intake air regulator + idle valve isn't the issue for packaging in an RB26 so much as the giant common vacuum chamber hanging out under the intake plenum which is still needed for the brake booster + BOV vacuum lines if you're keeping it mostly stock. I've kind of made my peace with it.

O2 spacers are not going to help you here. The engine doesn't even have a post-cat O2 sensor. There is no silver bullet to fixing cars on the cheap other than giving up your own labor and time to do it.

Code 55 doesn't matter. The ECU can only detect a total MAF failure, partial failures or bad signal response curves are not detected. Get an OEM MAF, nothing else works for these cars. Do not "raise the O2 sensor out of the exhaust", whatever the hell that means.

That seems different from the one on the R33, which is almost identical to the coolant temp sensor used by the gauge. Basically just a rectangular large flat blade single terminal device.

Intake air regulator is not the same as AAC valve. Intake air regulator is only there to raise the idle airflow at cold start. After a certain amount of engine runtime the shutter should fully close and all idle airflow goes through the AAC valve instead.

Sounds like the easiest way of figuring this out is to somehow find an R34 wiring diagram manual. Unfortunately I don't think I've ever seen one myself.

When looking at that wiring manual it says it is A-17. If you go to the wiring section you can match it up to this ECCS/H connector: I'm having a hard time interpreting your drawing but my best guess is it is the power steering switch. Keep in mind R33 and R34 are not guaranteed to have the exact same harness pinouts.

Sure. Make sure to put some dielectric grease on the terminals and cap it in case future you wants to run electronic boost control again.

There's a lot of things that are weird on the R-chassis wiring/circuit design. Link highlights all the time how parts of the AC control system are always connected to +12V which can cause weird interactions that cause their ECU to brown out and cause no-starts in circumstances that it shouldn't. Nothing obscene, but just a little funny and no longer considered best practice.

I can take some better pictures when I get around to pulling the transmission on my R33 but this will probably give you some idea of where it's routed.

It is for idle up signaling when the power steering is under high load. For example if the car is stopped and you turn the steering wheel all the way to the end of travel. My best guess is the thread is identical but unless you can measure yourself it’s hard to be sure. The R32 switch is generic for Nissan so you might be able to find one in a junkyard or a cheap aftermarket alibaba special just to check fitment. Then buy OEM new for actual road use. I’m unclear on whether the R33/34 need the clearance on the switch hence the special part requirement. I’m pretty sure 4.7V corresponding to open switch is normal. The ECU can detect it too, voltage can exist in the absence of current flow. When the switch closes as the impedance is very low relative to the voltage source it drops to near 0V which can also be sensed.

Engines are expensive. You already mentioned having thermal management issues with your car, anti-lag dramatically raises EGTs and can easily damage a cylinder head. If your goal is actually to improve transient response I recommend VCAM. DBW can also help here. Instead of a simple mapping of accelerator pedal position to throttle opening instead you interpret the accelerator pedal as a certain torque/power request and the throttle will open more or less to achieve that. So if your desired acceleration requires getting 0.5 bar of boost the throttle will silently go wide open to spool the turbos, then as it gets to that target intake manifold pressure it will adjust the throttle back to the steady state target. Another trick you can play is detecting when a shift is happening using a strain gauge and clutch switch for example and rather than snap the throttle shut when the accelerator pedal closes you cut fuel injection and hang the throttle open to keep the turbo from slowing down. This is a pretty complicated trick to play though as if it got stuck in that logic you would have engine runaway and you want to make sure the engine RPMs actually fall at a reasonable rate instead of rev hanging badly.

Interesting, this might solve my "wtf do I do for catback" dilemma.

It's a harness connector. I have no idea why you think it's the AC compressor leaking power steering fluid out of there, it's not physically possible for that to happen. Most likely it's related to the bodged power steering valve/high pressure line. That valve and the threads it's attached to has to hold like 1000-1200 psi. Fix all of that first and foremost.

Looks like 49761-V5400 might fit but you would need to make an adapter harness.