joshuaho96

That probably permanently raises the idle. If it seems like the idle is higher than you want try capping both ends. I really doubt the part is discontinued because Nissan used it a million cars from the late 90s and early 2000s.

That is called the power steering valve. It is designed to raise the engine idle when you put excessive load on the power steering pump to keep the engine from stalling. Replacement is 49762-AA000.

Have you checked that the starter signal fuse hasn't popped in the fuse box? This is the simplest thing to start with. Then verify that your ignition switch is providing a low resistance path from pin 5 to pin 1 when the ignition switch is turned to the start position: I misspoke earlier about the starter motor being ground switched. Technically going by the circuit diagram the solenoid is always connected to ground and actually you have to provide +12V to it via the ignition switch to power it. If you have confirmed the switch is working normally then you're down to a wiring fault and you have to chase the signal wire from the harness back into the cabin. Most likely it is the Wiring Specialties harness. I have gotten mis-wired harnesses from them before.

The starter signal from the ignition switch just connects the starter solenoid to ground. There will always be +12V on one side of the starter solenoid.

The F80/G80 are pretty close, just don't bottom out/scrape on anything substantial because all that's protecting the oil cooler from puking 7 quarts out is a crappy piece of plastic they call a skid plate. Not unusual to take off the covers and discover that the whole cooler is bent and needs replacement.

Yes, in the case of the F80 it's basically such that air from the front of the car that would want to bypass the radiator/charge cooler/condenser stack is instead forced down through the oil cooler and then ducted out the bottom. It's definitely annoyingly complicated and not that simple. Power steering also suffers from similar problems, the factory "cooler" is just some fins attached to one of the hardlines running along the subframe and it's not really good enough to keep the fluid from boiling/out of the reservoir under track use.

30/70 should be standard in any tropical climate. If it never drops below 0C this is an easy way of getting more performance out of the cooling system. Nissan explicitly recommends this. If you want to go even more extreme you can go 100% distilled water with redline water wetter. Change it frequently if you do this as I'm doubtful on the corrosion protection. Make sure the airflow into and out of the cooler is managed. Don't use excessively restrictive mesh on the intake or exhaust for the oil cooler. A friend of mine has tested this himself when installing a front mount intercooler on his car. Seal up any gaps in the ducting. You may want to find some way of fitting a larger oil cooler in the space that the HKS cooler currently uses but that core is already pretty close to what is practically possible. You can also try to fit a cooler in the space where the OEM diverter valves live but that's a bit challenging like the HPI kit. Or you can take the F80 M3 approach and put one laying flat under the radiator/intercooler/etc but you need to be extremely careful about not scraping the underside of the car. F80s are notorious for emptying their oil pans when someone takes a speed bump too aggressively or scraping on a curb.

Make sure the radiator fan shroud is on and in good condition. Make sure all the radiator guides are in place. Make sure your intercooler isn't restricting too much airflow to the radiator. Change your coolant out for a 30/70 glycol/water mixture instead of the normal factory recommended 50/50. Make sure your radiator is halfway decent, so not Mishimoto. Make sure your fan clutch is functioning properly. If you have the factory oil/coolant heat exchanger a larger oil cooler or better ducting can help take the load off the cooling system. If your tune pulls out way too much timing to achieve the power figures that it does and the pressure peak is happening well after TDC turn down the boost. Less thermal efficiency means more of that heat is going into your coolant and engine oil instead of the wheels. E85 would likely help a lot in this situation as it naturally has more water dissolved in it and the combustion of alcohol releases a lot more water than gasoline. I would also recommend doing some temperature logging of various fluid temperatures. Rear differential, transmission, transfer case, front differential, power steering fluid. Gear oil shouldn't exceed ~140C. If it is getting too close for comfort you might need to consider some method of cooling it off better. Keep in mind that these systems are kind of all interconnected. The oil pan holds the front diff for example and keeping the engine oil cool will help cool the front diff in turn.

That is pretty much overheating on an RB. Should never exceed middle of the temp gauge. In my experience normal temp it never even gets to the middle reading 80C.

I think I'd settle for just pulling the engine. Then may as well have everything else inspected while you're at it and think about throwing a stroker kit in there with valve relief pistons for 50 degree advance VCAM and maybe a spline drive oil pump and other oil control mods on top of that and maybe a helical front LSD too.

Start with an idle power balance test. Consult cable will let you shut off fuel to one cylinder at a time without having to risk breaking an injector harness clip or have the metal clip go flying off into the abyss.

I have never had to think about this before but that makes sense. Too much boost bleeding off going to the wastegate actuator will overwhelm the atmospheric vent.

Wastegate stuck open will make the exhaust louder because the turbine is being bypassed but it will not make a sucking noise. It will affect idle but not enough to cause issues. Only way for that to be an issue is if the wastegate actuator rod is so loose that exhaust is leaking out from it. Exhaust leaks are usually not that complicated to spot otherwise. Any leak will be magnified by exhaust visibly leaving soot or heat damage to gaskets, external surfaces of cracks, etc. Make sure the BOV is not stuck open. If this is running stock ECU/your tune is not speed density get rid of the atmospheric vent and do 100% recirculation. A boost leak test would show if you had a problem there. You can also try capping the throttle body and only pressurizing the intake manifold to see where pressure is leaking out. With the engine off the only path for it to leak out should be the intake valves.

Too cheap? I think it's pretty expensive.

Yeah, that will definitely do that. Don't delete the BOV altogether either as the factory MAF cannot deal with reversion induced by compressor stall.

I was going to say generally speaking if it's like 80k+ miles since the valve cover has been replaced you don't even attempt to just replace the gasket. The valve cover itself will likely be warped and it will continue to leak after replacement, just not as severely. The valve cover PCV diaphragm can also tear and create a major vacuum leak. Welcome to BMW life. My friend's 2006 330i was t-boned and totaled out so he also just got a 335i so I can add to this thread now.

They replace springs for sure. The remade in USA throttle springs feel much stiffer than the originals.

The two people doing this stuff in the US are https://www.instagram.com/resto_daddy/ or https://www.instagram.com/remade_in_usa_/. I went with the latter option but as far as I know both do good work.

Interesting, I've never seen a failure like that before but with the age of these cars and the general questionable-ness of all kinds of parts these days you can't rule anything out I suppose. Boost leak testing the boost control system would've revealed this though.

Check for blown capacitors, burned traces, cold/cracked solder joints, corrosion, etc. You can try sending the cluster out to a shop that specializes in electronics repair.

If you're using resistance mode on the multimeter of course plugging it in with a live battery won't yield a useful reading. Either disconnect the 12V while you do resistance testing or look up what the voltage should be for your current level and chase it back to the gauge cluster to isolate where the failure happens.

https://www.instagram.com/highintakeperformance/p/C7shBy-R3zo/?img_index=2 Looks like it's official. The originals are some kind of weird foam that is pretty fragile.

I have heard that these are being reproduced in ABS plastic. Announcement to the public is some time in the near future.

I haven't been able to try a coppermix twin but I tried a 997.2 Turbo 6MT the other day with a single plate organic clutch that had all the springs removed so it's "for race use" and a stronger pressure plate. Absolutely miserable to drive. I couldn't feel the pressure plate weight because the pedal has hydraulic assist from the power steering pump but the slip point felt like I had to flex my big toe to control it because it was so sensitive. The clutch also shuddered horribly at the slip point. My best guess looking at the previous owner documentation is they tried to resurface the dual mass flywheel due to supply chain issues + used a stupid clutch with no marcel springs or any of the usual tricks that trade burst strength for driveability. I ordered the coppermix twin. Once it gets here I'll try to figure out whether to shop this job out to a local mechanic I can trust or try to DIY it.

I'd be careful of rubbing past the fender liner because one of the main EFI harnesses runs through there with not a lot of room to spare.