joshuaho96

Yes, in the case of the F80 it's basically such that air from the front of the car that would want to bypass the radiator/charge cooler/condenser stack is instead forced down through the oil cooler and then ducted out the bottom. It's definitely annoyingly complicated and not that simple. Power steering also suffers from similar problems, the factory "cooler" is just some fins attached to one of the hardlines running along the subframe and it's not really good enough to keep the fluid from boiling/out of the reservoir under track use.

30/70 should be standard in any tropical climate. If it never drops below 0C this is an easy way of getting more performance out of the cooling system. Nissan explicitly recommends this. If you want to go even more extreme you can go 100% distilled water with redline water wetter. Change it frequently if you do this as I'm doubtful on the corrosion protection. Make sure the airflow into and out of the cooler is managed. Don't use excessively restrictive mesh on the intake or exhaust for the oil cooler. A friend of mine has tested this himself when installing a front mount intercooler on his car. Seal up any gaps in the ducting. You may want to find some way of fitting a larger oil cooler in the space that the HKS cooler currently uses but that core is already pretty close to what is practically possible. You can also try to fit a cooler in the space where the OEM diverter valves live but that's a bit challenging like the HPI kit. Or you can take the F80 M3 approach and put one laying flat under the radiator/intercooler/etc but you need to be extremely careful about not scraping the underside of the car. F80s are notorious for emptying their oil pans when someone takes a speed bump too aggressively or scraping on a curb.

Make sure the radiator fan shroud is on and in good condition. Make sure all the radiator guides are in place. Make sure your intercooler isn't restricting too much airflow to the radiator. Change your coolant out for a 30/70 glycol/water mixture instead of the normal factory recommended 50/50. Make sure your radiator is halfway decent, so not Mishimoto. Make sure your fan clutch is functioning properly. If you have the factory oil/coolant heat exchanger a larger oil cooler or better ducting can help take the load off the cooling system. If your tune pulls out way too much timing to achieve the power figures that it does and the pressure peak is happening well after TDC turn down the boost. Less thermal efficiency means more of that heat is going into your coolant and engine oil instead of the wheels. E85 would likely help a lot in this situation as it naturally has more water dissolved in it and the combustion of alcohol releases a lot more water than gasoline. I would also recommend doing some temperature logging of various fluid temperatures. Rear differential, transmission, transfer case, front differential, power steering fluid. Gear oil shouldn't exceed ~140C. If it is getting too close for comfort you might need to consider some method of cooling it off better. Keep in mind that these systems are kind of all interconnected. The oil pan holds the front diff for example and keeping the engine oil cool will help cool the front diff in turn.

That is pretty much overheating on an RB. Should never exceed middle of the temp gauge. In my experience normal temp it never even gets to the middle reading 80C.

I think I'd settle for just pulling the engine. Then may as well have everything else inspected while you're at it and think about throwing a stroker kit in there with valve relief pistons for 50 degree advance VCAM and maybe a spline drive oil pump and other oil control mods on top of that and maybe a helical front LSD too.

Start with an idle power balance test. Consult cable will let you shut off fuel to one cylinder at a time without having to risk breaking an injector harness clip or have the metal clip go flying off into the abyss.

I have never had to think about this before but that makes sense. Too much boost bleeding off going to the wastegate actuator will overwhelm the atmospheric vent.

Wastegate stuck open will make the exhaust louder because the turbine is being bypassed but it will not make a sucking noise. It will affect idle but not enough to cause issues. Only way for that to be an issue is if the wastegate actuator rod is so loose that exhaust is leaking out from it. Exhaust leaks are usually not that complicated to spot otherwise. Any leak will be magnified by exhaust visibly leaving soot or heat damage to gaskets, external surfaces of cracks, etc. Make sure the BOV is not stuck open. If this is running stock ECU/your tune is not speed density get rid of the atmospheric vent and do 100% recirculation. A boost leak test would show if you had a problem there. You can also try capping the throttle body and only pressurizing the intake manifold to see where pressure is leaking out. With the engine off the only path for it to leak out should be the intake valves.

Too cheap? I think it's pretty expensive.

Yeah, that will definitely do that. Don't delete the BOV altogether either as the factory MAF cannot deal with reversion induced by compressor stall.

I was going to say generally speaking if it's like 80k+ miles since the valve cover has been replaced you don't even attempt to just replace the gasket. The valve cover itself will likely be warped and it will continue to leak after replacement, just not as severely. The valve cover PCV diaphragm can also tear and create a major vacuum leak. Welcome to BMW life. My friend's 2006 330i was t-boned and totaled out so he also just got a 335i so I can add to this thread now.

They replace springs for sure. The remade in USA throttle springs feel much stiffer than the originals.

The two people doing this stuff in the US are https://www.instagram.com/resto_daddy/ or https://www.instagram.com/remade_in_usa_/. I went with the latter option but as far as I know both do good work.

Interesting, I've never seen a failure like that before but with the age of these cars and the general questionable-ness of all kinds of parts these days you can't rule anything out I suppose. Boost leak testing the boost control system would've revealed this though.

Check for blown capacitors, burned traces, cold/cracked solder joints, corrosion, etc. You can try sending the cluster out to a shop that specializes in electronics repair.

If you're using resistance mode on the multimeter of course plugging it in with a live battery won't yield a useful reading. Either disconnect the 12V while you do resistance testing or look up what the voltage should be for your current level and chase it back to the gauge cluster to isolate where the failure happens.

https://www.instagram.com/highintakeperformance/p/C7shBy-R3zo/?img_index=2 Looks like it's official. The originals are some kind of weird foam that is pretty fragile.

I have heard that these are being reproduced in ABS plastic. Announcement to the public is some time in the near future.

I haven't been able to try a coppermix twin but I tried a 997.2 Turbo 6MT the other day with a single plate organic clutch that had all the springs removed so it's "for race use" and a stronger pressure plate. Absolutely miserable to drive. I couldn't feel the pressure plate weight because the pedal has hydraulic assist from the power steering pump but the slip point felt like I had to flex my big toe to control it because it was so sensitive. The clutch also shuddered horribly at the slip point. My best guess looking at the previous owner documentation is they tried to resurface the dual mass flywheel due to supply chain issues + used a stupid clutch with no marcel springs or any of the usual tricks that trade burst strength for driveability. I ordered the coppermix twin. Once it gets here I'll try to figure out whether to shop this job out to a local mechanic I can trust or try to DIY it.

I'd be careful of rubbing past the fender liner because one of the main EFI harnesses runs through there with not a lot of room to spare.

https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/en-us/products/nissan-rb26-cast-blocks This is the solution I was thinking of. I would stay away from Tomei USA, their quality is a question mark to me. If you want an engine machined in the US contact Club DSPORT: https://clubdsport.com/ Tomei JP is probably fine but I recall they stopped doing pre-assembled short or long blocks. In general it's pretty tough to get any kind of RB26 block at the moment with Nissan so severely backordered.

PAR specifically offers stock ratios in their gearset and you could do whatever ratios are physically possible supposedly for no extra cost. I agree 6 ratios is better than 5, the factory 2nd gear is equivalent to the Getrag 2nd gear if you account for the differing final drive ratio though. The Getrag 3rd gear with a 3.916 final drive is equivalent to a 1.6 2nd gear in the FS5R30A. I'm about to swap the transmission out on my car, I'm tempted to send the one I have now out for rebuild with the standard "cross ratio" gearsets out there to see if it really makes such a big difference the next time I pull the transmission.

IMO I would stop there but it's up to you. At the power numbers you're asking about the stock 05U block will start showing issues. Even an N1 block might not be enough. PRP is trying to do blocks and heads that will be ready for big power right out of the gate but it remains to be seen whether any of that is any good. It might be great. It might be awful. It's hard to say until enough people have gotten their hands on one and run it for extended periods.

I think you want an RB34 build at that point to go with a G30-770. Also if your dyno is reporting whp and not crank horsepower you should know your tuner is probably massaging the correction factors to make customers feel better. GTIII-SS and -7s are good for high 300 whp on pump gas, maybe just over 400 whp depending on the setup. E85 will push it into the mid 400 whp or so.

What’s wrong with 2.6 first gear? I’ve done lots of 2nd gear starts from almost a dead stop and it just requires more clutch slip. A 2.6 first gear would be easier than that. I feel like the stock first gear is only good for severe traffic congestion where you need to be able to do 5 kph idling in first gear. Out in the US 120 kph is a very normal speed to be doing on the highways. If anything it’s slow, I regularly get passed by CA highway patrol doing that kind of speed. Out in the desert and plains even 18 wheelers are doing 130-140 kph. I would be less down on the Getrag if not for the fact that they cost north of 10k USD used and you’ll spend probably another 5k on a rebuild at least. I got my FS5R30A from Nissan for 1.5k USD. The cost of building one is maybe an extra 3-4k if you keep it reasonable. The final drive change to account for the 0.793 6th gear is also a pain to deal with.