joshuaho96

https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/en-us/products/nissan-rb26-cast-blocks This is the solution I was thinking of. I would stay away from Tomei USA, their quality is a question mark to me. If you want an engine machined in the US contact Club DSPORT: https://clubdsport.com/ Tomei JP is probably fine but I recall they stopped doing pre-assembled short or long blocks. In general it's pretty tough to get any kind of RB26 block at the moment with Nissan so severely backordered.

PAR specifically offers stock ratios in their gearset and you could do whatever ratios are physically possible supposedly for no extra cost. I agree 6 ratios is better than 5, the factory 2nd gear is equivalent to the Getrag 2nd gear if you account for the differing final drive ratio though. The Getrag 3rd gear with a 3.916 final drive is equivalent to a 1.6 2nd gear in the FS5R30A. I'm about to swap the transmission out on my car, I'm tempted to send the one I have now out for rebuild with the standard "cross ratio" gearsets out there to see if it really makes such a big difference the next time I pull the transmission.

IMO I would stop there but it's up to you. At the power numbers you're asking about the stock 05U block will start showing issues. Even an N1 block might not be enough. PRP is trying to do blocks and heads that will be ready for big power right out of the gate but it remains to be seen whether any of that is any good. It might be great. It might be awful. It's hard to say until enough people have gotten their hands on one and run it for extended periods.

I think you want an RB34 build at that point to go with a G30-770. Also if your dyno is reporting whp and not crank horsepower you should know your tuner is probably massaging the correction factors to make customers feel better. GTIII-SS and -7s are good for high 300 whp on pump gas, maybe just over 400 whp depending on the setup. E85 will push it into the mid 400 whp or so.

What’s wrong with 2.6 first gear? I’ve done lots of 2nd gear starts from almost a dead stop and it just requires more clutch slip. A 2.6 first gear would be easier than that. I feel like the stock first gear is only good for severe traffic congestion where you need to be able to do 5 kph idling in first gear. Out in the US 120 kph is a very normal speed to be doing on the highways. If anything it’s slow, I regularly get passed by CA highway patrol doing that kind of speed. Out in the desert and plains even 18 wheelers are doing 130-140 kph. I would be less down on the Getrag if not for the fact that they cost north of 10k USD used and you’ll spend probably another 5k on a rebuild at least. I got my FS5R30A from Nissan for 1.5k USD. The cost of building one is maybe an extra 3-4k if you keep it reasonable. The final drive change to account for the 0.793 6th gear is also a pain to deal with.

The GTIII-SS turbos are not made for 650 hp crank. They just aren't going to do it. The turbine housing is smaller than the Garrett -7s. The turbo in general is smaller than a GT2860R-7, if it makes the same power as -7s you should be happy. Honestly I would be really happy with your results as far as power delivery goes. Hitting peak torque by 3500 rpm if that's actually happening in 4th gear in the real world is not normal for an RB26 at all. I have heard of people doing 2.8 strokers with GTIII-SS engines but I don't think I've ever seen a dyno sheet of it. I would be worried that the torque falls off faster than RPMs can rise so instead of getting a wider power peak you just shift the whole curve down 500-1000 RPM and end up with an engine that's no fun to rev out.

For street use I wouldn't bother with a clutch type LSD on the front especially on a mostly RWD car like the R32 GTR. It will affect steering feel and you're really not going to get much benefit out of it. If you insist on putting in a front LSD I would go with a Quaife or similar Torsen/helical LSD as that will have less impact on steering feel. R34 6 speed swap is not really worth it IMO. If you don't swap the final drive on the front and rear differential the car will rev much higher on the highway. For 120 kph it will sit at 3700 RPM, perceptually higher because the factory tachometer reads a little high. Stock transmission it's closer to 3050 RPM for 120 kph. If you change the final drive ratios you will have to either change the gear on the vehicle speed sensor or use some kind of converter because the gauge cluster is taking RPM of the transmission output shaft, not the differential output shafts. Add in the cost and the fact that it's not actually that much stronger than an FS5R30A especially in hard use due to the specification of ATF and I've given up on the idea of using a Getrag 233 in these cars. It's just not worth it considering the huge cost. If you want a stronger transmission build the FS5R30A. PAR Engineering supposedly will do whatever gear ratios you want. You can move things around so 1st and 2nd are not so clearly optimized for 0-100 kph acceleration. The gap between 2nd and 3rd is gigantic for autocross. OS Giken and a few other shops do this, take your pick.

I agree it's subjective, I'm likely going to have to see if a local owner with a Nismo twin plate or some other twin plate is willing to let me try parking lot maneuvering with their car to really feel confident. But it sounds like for now that's probably the way I'm going. The Nismo clutch is full face organic + copper blend as far as I can tell with a sprung hub and a relatively low spec pressure plate. That's a combination of things that seems like it should stack the deck in its favor. Twin plate is the only hang-up honestly, I've never driven one so I don't know if it's too grabby for me and my poor driving skill. Kind of interesting, but I really don't feel like doing a conversion to push clutch.

Getting back to the actual subject though the Xtreme twin plate I'm a little skeptical of. Higher clamp force + requires a pull to push clutch conversion. I'm not super sensitive to cost but the ATS clutch is 700 USD more and another 35% extra clamp force over the Nismo. With how weak the yen is the Xtreme organic twin plate is actually substantially more expensive than either the Nismo or ATS clutches as well, although I haven't priced everything out after shipping.

Most likely if the speedo works fine it's the driver circuit in the cluster that takes the VSS signal and converts it into a neater format for the ECU/HICAS/etc. Pull your gauge cluster out and clean the board with contact cleaner, all that fun stuff. Look for corrosion, signs of burned contacts, failed solder joints, etc.

May as well buy an R35 at that point

Transmission synchros feel pretty bad at this point in my car and sometimes the clutch feels like it has an inconsistent engagement point in the pedal travel. I figure if I'm going to swap in a new transmission I may as well also put in a new clutch. Obvious candidates are ATS's pull-type twin plate carbon clutch, Nismo Super Coppermix Twin, or some organic clutch option I haven't figured out yet. I have searched this stuff to death at this point and still don't feel all that confident in making a decision. Target power is not much. ~330 kW at the wheels max. I ballpark the torque spec at 600 N-m. The stock clutch feels a little light so a little heavier is ok but I would say no more than 15-20% additional pedal effort. For some reason most clutch manufacturers want to keep this stuff a secret but the Coppermix Twin is 950 kg clamp load so I figure it can't be too much heavier than stock. The hang-up I have is some people mentioning that the clutch is very grabby which sounds like a pain. The stock clutch is almost too easy to modulate so I don't mind if it requires more precision than that but I don't want to deal with something that feels like I'm getting rear-ended at every traffic light. Also I see some mention of the release bearing carrier sizing requiring some work which sounds like something that might complicate installation? It would be good to know exactly what is needed here for a 1995 R33 GTR. The ATS clutch is supposedly the best but I've seen some complaints that they wear out easily and also slip when cold. I don't know how much of that is true but the cost is also huge compared to even the Nismo Coppermix twin plate. It's also unsprung which normally I would reject immediately but supposedly carbon clutches don't need it. The higher clamp load at 1300 kg is also a little concerning but to me more clamp load seems like it inevitably means more pedal effort and also more strain on the engine crank thrust bearings. This is a street car and despite being a weekend car I seem to spend a lot of time crawling in severe traffic congestion with it anyways so I will gladly pay to have something that is easy to drive on and will hold the power with no unexpected headaches. I really don't want to do a clutch twice.

Putting aside the part where they are in fact interchangeable you need to know that Nissan part numbers don't work the way you think they work. The first half of the part number just means it's the same kind of part (fuel tank). The second half is what determines the specifics of that part. For example R32 GTR specific parts or something that originated with an R32 GTR is often 05U00. R33 GTR specific parts are often 24U00.

I remember test driving this car at Odaiba. All the controls are very light so it's good for commuting. I don't think a 1.2L turbo would make sense in the US though, you would be constantly deep in the boost in highway cruising.

The timestamps I see over the Consult port is about 16 Hz. It's not as fast as I would like but that's much faster than ~1 Hz.

My R33 GTR gets 11.2-11.7 L/100km doing steady state 120 km/h. Is something wrong? I suspect I have an evap leak somewhere because the garage still smells like hydrocarbon fumes after a while and the O2 sensor still appears to respond pretty slowly, about a second or so peak to peak when I log via NDS1.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C6pukBHrOKB/?img_index=1 Has someone f**ked with the jam nut on the failsafe solenoid? Stuff like this is never supposed to be touched, if it does the transfer case can lock up solid and never bleed properly. Nobody knows what the correct setting is for stuff like that from the factory.

This is exactly what I was thinking, I just wasn't expecting whatever that hackjob was. Skyline owners never disappoint.

Check your FPCM. What happens if you bypass it? The ECU will bypass it during prime + initial start, then the FPCM kicks in and slows the pump down.

Honestly, can't be worse than Skyline ownership which is also a mess considering the age of these things. The 335i at least you can still get parts easily.

This must be my problem, I can smell fuel in the driver rear wheel well sometimes.

In the US people definitely take photos. It's a lot of attention. I personally don't care but I drive pretty cautiously.

The best part is the aluminum replacements are also junk with a ton of casting flash threatening to break off. Only safe solution is toss and buy OEM new if in doubt, if the cage ever comes off BMW says to replace the whole part instead of putting it back together. Also only use the right oil filter wrench and only snug it down, never attempt to actually torque it once the cap is fully threaded into the housing.

I don't own one but at this point I've done more than my fair share of work on one.

That crappy plastic cage is the difference between an engine that works and one that mysteriously has half the lifters fail, cam journals scored, and VANOS mechanically stuck faults because all the oil pressure leaked out of the stupid cam ledge bearings. Also, the difference between the right oil filter and the wrong one. I don't know why BMW is like this. Their engines are incredibly sensitive to the slightest thing being wrong.