joshuaho96

That crappy plastic cage is the difference between an engine that works and one that mysteriously has half the lifters fail, cam journals scored, and VANOS mechanically stuck faults because all the oil pressure leaked out of the stupid cam ledge bearings. Also, the difference between the right oil filter and the wrong one. I don't know why BMW is like this. Their engines are incredibly sensitive to the slightest thing being wrong.

Sure, but you could just pull enough timing out of the map to make it idle at whatever RPM you want. Or close the throttle until it's about to bind to compensate for vacuum leaks.That's kind of why I'm not a fan of this approach, especially if OP isn't experienced at tuning these things.

Sure, but personally I'm a big fan of when you have a problem, don't make it harder to diagnose by changing more variables all at once.

You definitely have a big problem if with the adjustment screw closed up you're idling at 1200 rpm. Have you verified you have no vacuum leaks? No throttle shaft seal leaks? Nobody has messed with the throttle body set screws? I would love to see what Consult reports when your engine is idling that high.

HICAS has a much more complicated circuit diagram, for some reason the R32 GTR service manual discusses both. The HICAS module has proper 2 way communication over consult, the "EPS control unit" doesn't have any of that and only exposes a raw analog voltage for the EPS solenoid valve. It's ultimately mostly about speed sensitive steering but the non-HICAS unit also looks at the neutral switch/brake/clutch switch to adjust how it provides assist.

I don't know if this is accurate. The EPC places the EPS control unit somewhere in the engine bay or somewhere in the interior near the firewall, presumably because the things it's controlling mostly live up in the front of the car unlike HICAS which has a whole steering rack on the rear axle to handle. @D.phantom The R32 GTR manual actually has more than I give credit for talking about the non-HICAS cars: You can probe the pins on the diagnostic connector directly to read the EPS solenoid voltage as far as I can tell following the flow chart.

I don't have the full R32 factory service manual so I don't really know how to help you here but there is an EPS control module that modulates the EPS solenoid, marked C or 28500 in this diagram. The R32 GTR service manual floating around mentions it should be about 4.4-6.6V between the diagnostic connector and solenoid valve at 0 kph, then 1.5-2.2V at 60 mph, it also has the no HICAS equipped variant connector mentioned:

Pull the codes. I have seen a code 21 for primary ignition circuit fault on these conversions for some reason, I'm not sure exactly how the ECU decides this either.

If your working theory is that air is getting into the fuel hose and those air bubbles are causing lean-outs it would run horribly at first or most likely no-start until the air is purged. Also, if your fuel hose isn't sealing too well more likely it will manifest as a fuel leak, not air leaking into the system. I would be suspect of the gas station potentially having dirt intrusion in their underground tanks if you think it's the fuel filter causing a fuel pressure drop that causes lean-out. Fuel pressure has to be measured under load or you have to take a delta measurement at different points in the circuit if the idea of getting the car to a dyno or running a hose all the way from under the hood into the cabin and having one person check fuel pressure while the other drives is unpleasant.

Yeah, if he has one lying around you could send yours in on an exchange basis.

Contact Matt at Nistune. If the wiring on the ECU has been messed with in order to get certain outputs like launch control, flex fuel, and boost control you might need to change it back to make it work normally again.

If you don't have a friend with a Nistune license just buy one. Then you can flash whatever ROM dump you want. The Nistune ROM pack has the actual stock maps for literally every ER34 ECU as far as I can tell, both AT and MT.

If the TCS light is controlled by the ECU just patch it with Nistune to turn it off. I personally hate wiring in stuff like the SLD because it requires cutting into the factory harness when all you really need to do is patch a byte or two in the ROM. Just to wire in my dash cam and some other future expansion I've bought a sealed bus bar so I don't have to run multiple fuse taps for accessories that want +12V, ignition signal, and ground. Clean wiring goes such a long way to preventing annoyances when debugging all this crap.

Any chance you can get a Nistune board installed instead and set the speed limit to whatever your tires can handle?

Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.

I personally recommend not messing with factory suspension until you can clearly identify something wrong. For example I think the R33 might need some way to adjust front camber because I feathered the edges of the tires much more than the center of the tread doing some figure 8s and slalom.

I can believe it if you're getting air into the pickup. Cavitation is tremendously destructive for pumps.

I took the liberty of downloading the pictures:

WTF is that engine bay. They didn't even mask off the brake master cylinder or reservoir before going at it?!

I think you pretty much nailed it.

Do you have a crank trigger or are you still running the factory CAS?

I think you're thinking of silicon, not silicone. Silicone is a polymer of siloxane which is Si-O-Si with some hydrocarbons hanging off of the silicon.

I would not trust whatever J Replace ignitor you bought personally, just searching them up on Zilvia their parts are basically complete shot in the dark alibaba crap: https://zilvia.net/f/showpost.php?p=6422907&postcount=15 This is a hard lesson to learn with these cars. Almost always these aftermarket parts are a false economy. I bet the power transistors are not able to keep up once they get hot enough which is not helping with your misfires. At least with the RB26 the OEM ignitor + Hitachi coils are so expensive now that it's not even worth it to bother with OEM much of the time, R35 coilpack conversions are the same price initially and then any replacement afterwards ends up cheaper because there is no separate ignitor, if one coil fails you replace that coil only. If there is oil in the intake and the PCV is not venting to the intake then pull apart the intake and verify the turbo is ok. Do not drive the car if the turbo has shaft play. It will shed metal and debris into the rest of the engine and make things go from bad to worse.

I'm actually really impressed that you don't pop a pressure relief valve or find some other weak link in the system. This puts me at ease though, I want to run 5 bar differential at the injectors and flow enough for maybe 500 crank horsepower tops on E85. I'm really hoping that a single Fuelab 496 series pump will work for this.

Most likely your engine is toast, but also the R32 GTR has different ratios than the GTS4. In 5th it's basically the same, it's mostly 1st through 3rd that change. Stop trying to do WOT pulls before you make the engine entirely unsalvageable. Do a leakdown test and/or borescope the cylinders first. And a boost leak can overspeed a turbo. Make sure the turbo actually functions as intended.