joshuaho96

Pull the codes. I have seen a code 21 for primary ignition circuit fault on these conversions for some reason, I'm not sure exactly how the ECU decides this either.

If your working theory is that air is getting into the fuel hose and those air bubbles are causing lean-outs it would run horribly at first or most likely no-start until the air is purged. Also, if your fuel hose isn't sealing too well more likely it will manifest as a fuel leak, not air leaking into the system. I would be suspect of the gas station potentially having dirt intrusion in their underground tanks if you think it's the fuel filter causing a fuel pressure drop that causes lean-out. Fuel pressure has to be measured under load or you have to take a delta measurement at different points in the circuit if the idea of getting the car to a dyno or running a hose all the way from under the hood into the cabin and having one person check fuel pressure while the other drives is unpleasant.

Yeah, if he has one lying around you could send yours in on an exchange basis.

Contact Matt at Nistune. If the wiring on the ECU has been messed with in order to get certain outputs like launch control, flex fuel, and boost control you might need to change it back to make it work normally again.

If you don't have a friend with a Nistune license just buy one. Then you can flash whatever ROM dump you want. The Nistune ROM pack has the actual stock maps for literally every ER34 ECU as far as I can tell, both AT and MT.

If the TCS light is controlled by the ECU just patch it with Nistune to turn it off. I personally hate wiring in stuff like the SLD because it requires cutting into the factory harness when all you really need to do is patch a byte or two in the ROM. Just to wire in my dash cam and some other future expansion I've bought a sealed bus bar so I don't have to run multiple fuse taps for accessories that want +12V, ignition signal, and ground. Clean wiring goes such a long way to preventing annoyances when debugging all this crap.

Any chance you can get a Nistune board installed instead and set the speed limit to whatever your tires can handle?

Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.

I personally recommend not messing with factory suspension until you can clearly identify something wrong. For example I think the R33 might need some way to adjust front camber because I feathered the edges of the tires much more than the center of the tread doing some figure 8s and slalom.

I can believe it if you're getting air into the pickup. Cavitation is tremendously destructive for pumps.

I took the liberty of downloading the pictures:

WTF is that engine bay. They didn't even mask off the brake master cylinder or reservoir before going at it?!

I think you pretty much nailed it.

Do you have a crank trigger or are you still running the factory CAS?

I think you're thinking of silicon, not silicone. Silicone is a polymer of siloxane which is Si-O-Si with some hydrocarbons hanging off of the silicon.

I would not trust whatever J Replace ignitor you bought personally, just searching them up on Zilvia their parts are basically complete shot in the dark alibaba crap: https://zilvia.net/f/showpost.php?p=6422907&postcount=15 This is a hard lesson to learn with these cars. Almost always these aftermarket parts are a false economy. I bet the power transistors are not able to keep up once they get hot enough which is not helping with your misfires. At least with the RB26 the OEM ignitor + Hitachi coils are so expensive now that it's not even worth it to bother with OEM much of the time, R35 coilpack conversions are the same price initially and then any replacement afterwards ends up cheaper because there is no separate ignitor, if one coil fails you replace that coil only. If there is oil in the intake and the PCV is not venting to the intake then pull apart the intake and verify the turbo is ok. Do not drive the car if the turbo has shaft play. It will shed metal and debris into the rest of the engine and make things go from bad to worse.

I'm actually really impressed that you don't pop a pressure relief valve or find some other weak link in the system. This puts me at ease though, I want to run 5 bar differential at the injectors and flow enough for maybe 500 crank horsepower tops on E85. I'm really hoping that a single Fuelab 496 series pump will work for this.

Most likely your engine is toast, but also the R32 GTR has different ratios than the GTS4. In 5th it's basically the same, it's mostly 1st through 3rd that change. Stop trying to do WOT pulls before you make the engine entirely unsalvageable. Do a leakdown test and/or borescope the cylinders first. And a boost leak can overspeed a turbo. Make sure the turbo actually functions as intended.

AFAIK didn't some of the race variants of the 32s do this relocation? Just relocate the fuel tank into the trunk.

Nissan thought about it, hence why the R33/R34 puts it behind the RH rear tire. I just don't think you can pull that same trick without a ton of work.

-9s aren't a bad idea if the goal is to make more power, they just have a much narrower compressor map than the -7s and probably whatever TD04HL thing the GTIII-SS is.

The interesting thing about the -9s though was the ceramic ball bearing, at least the 836026-5002S.

When I look up -9s these days some suppliers claim they're discontinued by Garrett. I don't know what the truth there really is.

Multimeter isn't going to be super helpful when a lot of these signals need to be probed dynamically. If you suspect it's a MAF try tapping or jiggling the harness connector while the car is idling to see if it stutters. Also, 1700 RPM cold start idle is super high. You can try ohming the ignitor when cold and then again when hot to see if heat is killing the module for some reason. Fuel pressure requires a tee after the fuel filter to measure with a gauge. My advice is get a Consult cable and you can monitor basically all the ECU I/O and also do some kind of sanity check of the ECU as well. If Consult logging craps out when the engine misfires then you should probably suspect the ECU. If you see weird TPS behavior, either not smoothly following real throttle position or dropping out then diagnose that further. If RPM doesn't make sense then suspect the CAS. If you want to test the CAS further you really need a timing light. If you suspect lean-out and not just a dead misfire under boost stop going into boost immediately until you can be confident the fuel system is trustworthy. You can easily kill the engine doing this.

Life has an interesting way of distracting me from projects. I basically threw them on and I've been running wastegate boost on the stock tune. Response appears to be roughly the same as stock R32 GTR ceramic turbos. If you want a ball bearing CHRA and more power capability I think the Nismo R3 turbos were probably the way to go but they're discontinued now after being sold for like a year at best.