joshuaho96

These are sold all the time at Walmart and like others have said the angle is "more eco friendly". It is slightly cheaper. Oil-contaminated plastics cannot be recycled so less of it is better, but you need a whole bunch of extra stuff to handle this. You need probably one clean 5 quart oil jug you set aside to use as an intermediate holding tank. You need your local hazmat to return your oil catch pan AND you need to make sure whatever oil catch pan you use can hold engine oil without any risk of leaking during transport. Or you have dedicated used engine oil containers that your local curbside recycling will drain and return. Personally I have stuck to just buying 5 quart bottles because this is just too much mess to be worth the hassle.

Probably yes. I think I could make it work but I'd rather not chance it. I've been having to ask friends for help because the transmission is just that heavy and for the price of ~30 USD I can get the OS Giken one in soon which should guarantee that clutch alignment won't prevent the transmission from seating properly.

I'm pretty sure it's just this specific Dorman one. I checked it with the hub by itself and even then it was already shedding plastic. It's only once I ran into all these issues with assembling the clutch that I decided to be skeptical of the plastic alignment tool as well and found it to have a notable amount of slop as the clutch is heavy enough to allow the plastic to bend.

The "one cylinder is 160 while others is 180" part of the compression test sounds bad. That's 12% lower than the others. I would bet something has happened there.

I forgot we're talking about an R34. So probably not the R33 dreaded tachometer failure. It might be related then. You might need an oscilloscope to diagnose this stuff unfortunately. Scope the tachometer signal and see what it looks like vs a clean normal tach signal, check grounds, etc. Constant +12V to the fuel pump is always going to cause high fuel pressure at idle. The OEM setup uses the FPCM to slow down the pump to hit 3 bar at idle. Your tuner likely worked around this by adjusting fueling around idle and low load but it's very fragile as you are discovering. Any weirdness will cause running issues. Air can get into the fuel rail, either because of a leak or because of fuel boiling from heat. Hopefully neither though. Injectors pulsing + pressure building at the pump + fuel return will purge all of this. My experience is this is primarily an issue if your fuel system doesn't hold pressure + you're getting the fuel extremely hot from a warm restart and an engine bay that traps too much heat. A stock fuel system has all of this already engineered out.

If you had to pick between Pulsar and Hypergear I would probably go Hypergear.

Oops, guess I accidentally deleted the last digit of the video ID. This one drives me nuts. VCT is such a big advantage for basic driveability and it costs very little to do. It's not like we're dealing with an E60 M5 with its dedicated high pressure VVT oil pump + hydraulic line carrying 1000+ psi and all that fun stuff. I also see a lot of people speak poorly about EGR and try to delete it in modern GDI engines. The problem is modern GDI relies on cooled high pressure EGR to improve timing margin at high load + RPM. So unless you're compensating for it by raising octane you have to completely retune when it's deleted.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Y3mHN8HbG This is about 450 whp and it's keeping up with a modern GT3 RS. Obviously some caveats to that but I think our brains are all broken by modern car power numbers. It's really everything around the engine that needs to be up to scratch. This particular R32 last time had some random BBK on it and clearly it wasn't good enough because he switched it to AP Racing for this go around. I'm reliably surprised by how much the little things matter when you're modifying cars. Every last detail is critical.

If your idle fuel pressure suddenly changed for any reason it would cause the problem you're seeing. Running rich is as bad as lean. The tachometer issue is likely a red herring. Pull the cluster out and resolder the joints to fix that one. You can also flow test your injectors.

ENR34 manual transmission transfer cases are 33100-23U00 which is shared with all of the R32/R33 GT-Rs and GTS-4s. And the C34 Stagea. Do not bother with automatics, that is a huge effort to swap and the car will be worse for it. And an automatic transfer case does not have the right housing for the shifter which comes out the back of the transmission and goes through the transfer case. I already posted my response on reddit but if you didn't see it there here it is: You have almost certainly damaged the transfer case, the only question is how badly. Nobody can tell you how bad without more information. If you have a giant hole in the transfer case pissing out all the transfer case fluid then you need a new one. If it's not that bad then the only question is whether you burned up the clutches. Drain the transfer case oil and inspect for metal on the drain plug magnet. Small black filings are normal. Big chunks of metal or a ton of black fuzzies not so much. Fluid should be nice and red. Any other color isn't great. If the color is reasonably red and there's not a bunch of clutch material discoloring it or anything like that you probably got away with insubstantial excess wear not worth trying to fix. If you have to rebuild or replace the transfer case keep in mind you have to pull the transmission to get it off.

It was simpler than that. Few things going on. One is that I hate plastic clutch alignment tools. Anybody who reads this in the future and is considering one, don't. Even for 3 USD it's not worth it. Mine left plastic shreds all over the inside of the clutch hub. Now I need a proper steel one and to re-grease the hub splines very carefully without leaving any excess that could go into the friction disk or anywhere else unintended. The second is that I'm bad at reading directions. There is a step in the instruction manual that tells you to put in the 3 M6 bolts BEFORE you attempt to put the clutch onto the flywheel which has been bolted to the crank. You should tighten them slowly and evenly in half turn increments so the springs all compress evenly. Once hand tight back it off until the friction disk can move around between the midplate and the pressure plate. Otherwise the hub won't be able to move properly to line up everything. The last point which is possibly the most important and is not mentioned in the manual or anywhere at all is that the friction disks are actually not symmetrical. There is a very, very subtle asymmetry to the fingers where they mesh with the hub. These fingers need to be pointing towards the midplate. This helps to make sure the friction disks stay engaged with the hub. Otherwise there is a distinct risk they pop up and out of the hub while you assemble, leading to the warped pressure plate I posted initially.

Miraculously warps again despite every possible method of trying to ensure even torque on the bolts. I'm very tempted to blame the pressure plate at this point. Everything else as far as I can tell does not have any runout issues. I double-checked to make sure the friction discs are oriented correctly and the hub is properly seated on the friction discs.

Took it apart and somehow when everything is in pieces everything looks fine. Everything looks flat and true. Pressure plate is no longer warped.

This is brand new. It's possible the input shaft hung up on the pressure plate while trying to wrestle the transmission into position, I wasn't up at the front of the bellhousing to monitor exactly what happened.

The instructions mention making sure the pressure plate is even/flat but doesn't really mention the possible causes of the pressure plate being warped like this.

Pretty simple question. I was about to put the transmission back in and thought I pretty much had it lined up when I noticed it seems like the pressure plate isn't flat. I was pretty careful when undoing the bolts both during initial disassembly for cleaning and when torquing them up for installation so this is pretty discouraging. I'm not sure if I accidentally bumped the pressure plate with the input shaft and bent it somehow or if it just showed up this way. Is it possible that there's just something obvious I'm not doing correctly? I'm pretty sure I was extremely careful to make sure the friction discs were seated correctly in the hub, everything lined up, flywheel torqued according to sequence, the little springs all sitting correctly in their seats, etc. What's the play here? Do I jump straight to a new pressure plate?

The clutch pedal has a procedure for adjustment. This can only be done after you are 100% sure the system is absolutely free of air bubbles. You must bleed the clutch master cylinder first, then the "separation pipe" which is the clutch damper line, then the operating cylinder as detailed in the service manual. Also, you must fully depress the clutch pedal between shifts. Just because you can't feel it grabbing does not mean the input shaft is truly decoupled from the crank. At high RPM clutch plates are vibrating and moving around, you need to give it the best possible chance of success. On the BCNR33 Nissan revises these adjustment procedures slightly but not by much: I would be careful with trying to play games with these adjustments. As for the Nismo operating cylinder they say a lot of things. In practice the twin plate clutch needs less movement on the clutch fork to disengage because the whole stackup of the flywheel + friction plates + pressure plate is much taller. Personally if you find that the clutch still disengages too high at the top of the travel I would try the Nismo operating cylinder. Make sure to follow the air bleed procedures.

I forget this is an au website, my GTR FS5R30A was 2200 AUD delivered but I did have to go to a warehouse near the port to pick it up myself.

VCAM doesn't really increase peak power, it just widens the powerband. So if you were giving up power with adjustable cam gears to get better low-end response yes in theory it "increases power" but otherwise not really. Stroker kit might put you in a more efficient region of the compressor map which will get you more power but at say 7000 rpm I'm not sure that much will change. The original HKS GT2530, -5s, and GTX2860R gen 2 are all roughly the same kind of turbo. If you want 600 horsepower those are the turbos you need. So 500 whp. Just expect to spend some quality time trying to figure out intake/exhaust piping. The "twin turbo" pipe is an obvious place to start. Make sure the actuator preload and all of that fun boring stuff is set up correctly. Throw a VCAM step 2 at it if you want good response, 2.8L stroker too. If you're not actually wedded to 500 whp all the time you can barely get there with -7s or Nismo R3 turbos, you just have to run E85 or race gas and run them hard:

It's used in the GT-R, GTST/GTT, and Z32 VG30 NA + TT versions. Nissan still makes them new, they're not cheap but they're not expensive either. Personally I would just get something direct-fit and be done with it but I'm not that handy at fabrication.

FS5R30A isn't exactly 1000 but it's close enough.

GTX2860R Gen 2 is an option. No, it doesn't actually do much. The basic problem with wanting 600 whp out of the factory twin turbo setup is a few things. One is that the twin turbo piping is just so, so inefficient. The front and rear turbos are not actually working evenly. The rear turbo is always moving more air than the front. On top of this the OEM rear compressor inlet is rubber that likes to collapse causing a huge intake restriction. The merge doesn't even wait until the intercooler to happen, and it happens at a 90 degree angle. This is why you see some discussion about "turbo shuffle", where in certain conditions one turbo can actually force air to go backwards into the other compressor and stall it out, then once the other turbo recovers it stalls out the first turbo in a cycle until you do something to break out of it. The other issue is that the RB26 is just not that efficient an engine. It needs a surprising amount of ignition timing to reach MBT for a given cylinder pressure so all that time in which the cylinder is pressurizing before TDC is just wasted energy. An N54 might be around 10 degrees BTDC on a stock turbo getting into the boost. An RB26 is closer to 25 BTDC. Net effect is a turbo roughly the size of what HKS uses on the GTIII-SS (smaller than the R3/GCG Japan "GT2860-1" -7s) is only good for maybe 550 crank hp or low 400 whp while a roughly comparable turbo on an N54 can deliver something like 700 crank hp and obviously drivetrain losses are greatly reduced when you aren't burning a bunch of power on keeping a hydraulic pump + transfer case preloaded all the time. So yes, you can make a lot of power but there's a reason why people go single turbo for the numbers you're asking about. Don't forget that the RB26 can't even do a straight line pull without oil starving on the stock oil pan either. Baffles can help, but really you just need more oil capacity.

Stock ECU with no recirc valve is a bad, bad combination. Hot wire MAFs cannot deal with reversion, even if you don't vent to atmosphere it will shoot back out when the throttle snaps closed all the way out the compressor inlet and MAF before getting sucked back into the engine. It double-counts the air, the engine runs way too lean and stumbles if it doesn't die outright.

That sounds like it could be fueling or timing. Everything that you're describing is part of why it's taking me so long just to build a "base map" for a Haltech tune. I'm really trying to make everything behave as close to OEM as possible before I even connect the ECU and see how it runs against the real thing.

You are not going to do a direct drop-in. A complete front facing intake like the RB26 on an RB25 is a major change and transient fueling mapping which is already a bit of a guess will be completely off.