joshuaho96

The dirty secret is there is nothing recyclable about the plastic bag or old plastic bottles either. Our local trash collection explicitly calls it out as hazmat in both cases. Oil-soaked rags + paper towels too. Oil-soaked cardboard is also not recyclable. The most common case of oil-soaked paper like that is pizza boxes, which are explicitly compost-only from the oil. To my knowledge hazmat oil contaminated plastic the only solution is either landfill or "thermal recycling". Most plastics in my experience there is slow permeation of the oil it's holding into the container so it's very challenging to get it 100% clean.

AFAIK on most Toyotas that half moon is usually an aluminum piece that you seal with RTV so you just source the valve cover gasket but I kind of doubt that you'll ever save money buying an aftermarket piece in this scenario.

The OEM lug wrench you really need to put a lot of body weight on it to hit 75-80 ft-lbs compared to a torque wrench where I can knock it out no problem as a desk jockey that never hits the gym. The torque limit is your own body.

Seeing just how complicated you're making this is kind of terrifying to me. I would not want this level of hoses running all around the engine. I also am a fan of draining back to sump by default.

Downshifts are harder on transmissions than upshifts, the input shaft naturally slows down once disconnected from the engine so the synchros aren't doing all the work. There's no "natural" tendency for an input shaft to increase RPM. Something is not right there, I don't have a great answer on what. You can try a dedicated GL4 75W90, I plan to switch to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS which is supposedly a very good 75W90 for NB Miatas which have a weirdly sensitive transmission from the factory. I would chase down why your clutch is making a hissing noise, that's not normal. It might be no big deal but in the absence of anything else to investigate I would look at that.

Either you specced the wrong fluid or your clutch is not releasing properly for whatever reason.

Dunno what to tell you, when I look at it on Consult I can see this warmup timing map kicking in around 40C coolant temp and it sticks around for a while: At part throttle on the normal base timing map it peaks around ~43 degrees of timing or something like that, this warmup timing map drops it to like 12-15 degrees.

Regardless, it doesn't seem wise especially on RBs to actually chase MBT. Timing scatter is the big one on stock CAS, even if that's fixed overshoot is worse than undershoot.

Yeah I've personally seen the RB26 pull 30 degrees of ignition timing out of the base timing map if the ECU detects a cold start, it nearly starts misfiring because of it around 2000 rpm and it feels like the engine has no power. I'm just surprised that modern OEM control strategies are actually trading off efficiency for in-cylinder emissions. I would expect something like aggressive EGR dilution + tumble generation valve use to improve EGR tolerance to reduce in-cylinder NOx + HC from crevice volume while also reducing throttling loss vs pulling out some timing if not knock-limited.

Right, but that's in-cylinder, there's the interaction between that and the TWC which complicates things. Pulling out timing to reduce NOx is a strategy I saw in transitional emissions vehicles like stuff from 1974 or so. The two inlet runner system is interesting but I'm not sure it makes a huge difference as far as emissions goes, is it a tumble valve? I've seen stuff like that even in cars from the late 80s.

https://www.gtrusablog.com/2020/03/itb-vs-single-throttle-individual.html From the math here and some real world dyno comparisons against a 102mm throttle I doubt it’s worth the effort and expense.

It's surprising you say this because talking to someone who headed Toyota's CARB certification efforts and was now working for Mercedes doing similar things he said he never had a case where he found that it was necessary to reduce ignition timing for that reason. Knock limits yes, but never because of in-cylinder emissions profile. I'm guessing between EGR and the number of TWCs modern cars stack in series it's not really a problem. I really doubt the NEO is that big a difference. You get what, EV6 injectors, coil on plug, a cold start valve that works off coolant temp instead of basically fixed time constant valve, and... I really can't think of anything else. Not like Toyota where they shipped first gen GDI in the 2JZ-FSE. Something I didn't realize is that Japan didn't revise their emissions standards for light duty passenger cars between 1978 and 2000. I'm guessing there's a bit of phase-in, but that explains why 2002 killed a bunch of JDM sports cars off all at once. FD3S, A80, S15, Z32, R34, Z15A GTO all died off for that reason. And explains how all these cars got away with no EGR or much of anything other than a TWC and charcoal canister for the longest time.

I'm pretty sure if it's considered a gasoline powered vehicle you have to do certification against a fixed, very expensive certification fuel. If you add two precats and then replace the main cat with two cats back to back you can get an RB26 to do 0.24 g/mi HC, 1.6 g/mi CO, and 0.3 g/mi NOx on the FTP-75 drive cycle. Found this out courtesy of California's laws at great expense. Divide by 1.61 to get g/km. So even with extra cats + precats you're blowing past the NOx limit by probably 2.3x. Probably the only way to get an RB25 or RB26 to meet euro 4 purely from an emissions per km standpoint and not durability/OBD2 requirements is retrofit at least intake side VVT, clearance the pistons to allow the full 50 degrees of advance so part throttle EGR can be maximized, and change the wastegate control from conventional 7 psi spring for example to one that is always fully open if the wastegate line is at 1 atm or higher and only close it in response to vacuum. See BMW's N54 engine as a reference for how this works. You would need to find space for a vacuum tank to function as an accumulator in this system. That way you can avoid any heat loss to the turbine as much as possible during cold start to heat the catalyst faster. Then find some way to eliminate as much as possible cold start enrichment to light off the catalyst rapidly. Maybe secondary air injection if there's no way to avoid cold start enrichment. Close coupled catalysts in the downpipe are probably necessary. I would also probably swap to EV14s, pick something with the correct spray targeting + dual cone pattern for the intake manifold you're using. EV1 style injectors to pass anything resembling modern emissions requires a very annoying air assisted injector system to break up the droplets at part throttle/idle which still doesn't work that great compared to just having smaller droplets from the injector to begin with. Realistically, you're probably going to be financially ahead if you just pay the fines instead. Or don't drive it into the city center. There's a reason why Nissan never bothered to even attempt certifying an RB for CA/US emissions. The VG30 needed external EGR on top of NVCS to pass in the 90s. Doing all of this work is also distinctly expensive and you're going to struggle to find anyone who is remotely interested in helping.

On some cars like MR2 Turbos they're notorious for not letting the wastegate open far enough to avoid overboost, especially certain cheap downpipes. If adjusting "percentage cycle" fixes it then it's just an electronic control issue, not a hardware one.

Foreign debris, physical shock, boost leak, could be anything honestly. The danger in taking all the timing out of a tune/hitting the R&R corner is that even if the engine doesn't detonate your turbo is taking a lot of abuse from high EGT. Also, even if nothing goes wrong it is a journal bearing that is spinning at 100k RPM on boost. Eventually it goes through enough cold start/pressure cycles to wear it out.

This is less than what I pay and garage storage is required still but my age is considered too young for the value of vehicle. I'll probably renegotiate insurance on this car soon considering how little I drive it.

The exact direct fit seat belts are R33-specific. Should be able to get it from any Nissan dealer.

From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.

HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:

No, with a twin plate clutch flywheels and clutch pressure plate/friction disks go together. Only clutch where that isn't the case is the Uniclutch but they currently don't make a pull version for the Getrag R34, just some other cars. Personally the flywheel is as light as I'd want it to be. It already drops revs faster than I want to shift normally and I blip the throttle again to rev match on upshifts.

Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.

Yes, the problem is the supply chain hasn't standardized on metric which makes it more expensive to source metric hardware. They're all mail order at this point. Fastenal is cheap but you can't exactly rock up to a fulfillment warehouse as a random D2C. Paying 13 USD in shipping for 3 nuts doesn't really make sense. McMaster-Carr and similar companies are all in a similar sort of boat. If you like gambling on mystery hardware Amazon is cheap too but you're going to be buying 25 of whatever screw you need. So Lowes/Home Depot ends up being the way to go if you really only need small quantities of hardware for odd jobs like trying to rebuild a power steering pump that calls for an m6x1.0 screw to pop out the flow control valve.

30 mL or something. I hate the lack of standardization on metric too, leads to annoying situations like not being able to find an M12x1.25 nut at the hardware store unless I special order or find the one store in a 30 km radius that actually stocks a non-trivial quantity of the thing so there's at least an 80% chance they haven't all been stolen.

I would try messing with friction modifier to see if it smooths it out. Just keep adding more until it stops chattering or grabbing quite so much. If you haven't changed the gear oil in a long time you may as well start there too in case that has anything to do with it. You might want to also verify the initial torque is set to the lowest setting too. Requires popping out one of the CV axles first but that's not too bad. Once you're sure the preload is set to the lowest you can try adding an ounce at a time of friction modifier until it feels right to you.

Factory LSD is supposedly a 2 way with a very conservative cam. If you've already tried adding friction modifier to the diff oil and it still locks up too much for your liking you might want to adjust the ramp rate on the cam to be more like OEM instead of reducing initial torque even further. People claim the 8 kgf-m disc kit for the OEM LSD is still very streetable but I've never been able to compare everything side by side on my own.