joshuaho96

PartsForNissans out in Arizona if you're in the US. Or any other Nissan USA dealer.

N54s are notorious in the US for a steady stream of failures but by now I'm pretty sure the biggest issues like HPFP, injectors, wastegate rattle, etc have all been figured out. So if you're willing to invest the time/money/etc into getting all the fixes done if the car hasn't had them done yet then you can have a pretty reliable engine.

Use some rubber hose to narrow down where the noise is coming from. I couldn't tell you for sure whether there are any easy direct swaps but most likely you're going to need a new ECU at the very least.

T550Bs? The older M7655/M8260 are terrible even by the standards of relatively ancient stuff like the GTIII-SS/GT-SS/GT2860R/etc turbos.

I would target 206 N-m in that case and then torque until you can get the pin in. Or like 25% of the way to 275 N-m.

Check RB20 stock dwell time but RB26 coils have 2 ms dwell on the stock ECU and the R35 conversions work just fine without a tune at stock-ish power. Going to R35 coils is cheaper in the long run with how insanely expensive the ignitor is. I bought a replacement but most likely if the ignitor ever breaks again I'm going R35 coils.

When I had to do this for the front diff I removed the diff cover and spun the diff until I could see the axle inside the diff. Then I used a plastic pry tool with a simple flat edge that gradually widens to full width and a hammer. Jam the pry tool in and use a hammer until the axle pops out. As far as I can tell it did not mar or bend any other parts of the diff this way. My least favorite thing is scraping/prying something out with metal on metal so this was a foolproof technique for me and the car needed a diff oil change pretty badly anyways. Then I used a slide hammer with an expanding jaw puller to remove the seal itself. Be careful when you do this because it will suck to damage the seat of the seal. I expanded it into the rubber to keep it from marring the seat instead of trying to catch the back edge where it meets the seat. Another method I've seen since doing that job was a tool that hooks onto the outside of the axle and makes it possible to slide hammer the axle out instead of trying to use a pry bar.

I've had a new car with evap core freezing issues, seemingly related to low refrigerant charge. So not impossible but worth checking.

If it isn't the fan speed going down your evaporator core is almost certainly freezing over. Get the system evacuated and checked for leaks, then verify the compressor is working correctly.

I'm pretty sure you can get one at a fraction of the cost. The one I use is a Launch X431 for cars where I don't have the manufacturer-specific diagnostic software/cable.

Yes, a local mechanic near me uses his Consult II to do things like run the ABS pump for brake bleeds: Whether any of this stuff works if you use an aftermarket ECU is hard for me to say.

I like the idea of slightly better knock margin. Not really necessary though.

Codes for sensors can be something other than just the sensor. What's the code?

I still don't understand why there is seemingly so little consideration paid to heat shielding in most single turbo conversions.

Right, that was what I was trying to say but didn't quite make explicit. RBs are expensive to blow up for dumb reasons.

I wouldn't be all that concerned about coolant temps until 90C but sounds like it worked out for you.

I would run a fuel pressure sensor if I’m already doing the work to set up a flex fuel sensor because it provides a clearer signal of fuel pump failure.

Good to know I wasn't the only one suspicious, the meandering wall of text in the shape of a correct answer but ultimately wrong seemed like it was a spambot.

Either way that strut tower is an easy place to put it, both feed and return run under the plenum.

Depends on how you want to do it, you could either keep a running tally of the things you need to replace as you dig through it or just replace everything wholesale. I ended up doing the latter when I pulled apart my intake manifold and oil cooler/oil filter housing down to the hose clamps which were all replaced with factory constant tension spring clamps. I spent probably 100 USD alone on those stupid spring clamps. There is no factory provision for a fuel pressure sensor, you could put one after the fuel filter but before the rail though. That is a common spot for flex fuel sensors. I'm pretty sure that's the point that you're supposed to use when following factory service manual procedures for testing fuel pressure anyways.

Probably holds it together. The wing isn't adjustable.

Who in their right mind would buy journal bearing turbos just because they had HKS logos on them?

The coolant hose/vacuum hose line item is easily north of 500 USD these days if you really do replace every last hose and pipe that has questionable integrity.

~35,000 km is about right for PSS/street-oriented summer tires. Personally for track tires I would probably run something like the Ventus RS4s purely out of concern for the limits of a wet sump engine.

For -5s? Absolutely.