joshuaho96

https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data Sheet_68749835_Electronic_Throttle_Body.pdf It's really strange to me that their drawing here shows what I would expect, which is a lip to keep an intake pipe from slipping off and a flat section for sealing properly. This is 0280.750.101. Digging deeper into it apparently this is not what is being sold widely, rather it's whatever is being used by Porsche and other vendors. Looking at the EPC number 3 in this diagram is the pipe that connects up to the front of the throttle body: Edit: If you look at this guide showing how they clean the throttle body it's clear to me that the pipe has a lip in it and then a hose clamp that applies pressure to keep it from pulling off: https://www.planet-9.com/threads/how-to-throttle-body-cleaning-and-gdi-intake-cleaning.248159/

Looks like the back of it is just flat, so you'd have a gasket and then some bolts that hold it to the intake. If it's anything like the other DBW setups I've seen it's just a hose and hose clamp that goes over the front of the throttle body and the lip is there to keep the hose from slipping.

Doesn't this affect the brake bias?

Easiest way to find it is to pressurize the system with nitrogen and see if it loses pressure. Or pull a vacuum and see if it loses vacuum.

Pretty sure this is the correct thing to do if you know that there will be no downstream relief valve. Looking at the RB20 housing I don't see anything like the relief valves in the RB26 housing.

With an external oil cooler I would imagine that you want a bypass both for filter pressure and the oil cooler. In the RB26 the factory housing has a relief valve on it for either scenario. I'm pretty sure that the block itself does not have the relief valve.

I know people that have had issues with Tomei USA head gaskets. Hard to say whether it's the gasket or installation error though.

If you have a weird thing about how you don't like the insane range of the 320 km/h Nismo meters and for some reason their coloring of the 8-9k range as yellow rather than redline I'm pretty sure you can just adjust the speedo calibration resistors and replace the gauge face with whatever corresponds to your desired calibration. You could make a 300 km/h speedo that way I believe like the Impul ones that were basically identical to factory other than the speed calibration change.

Even if you go to an aftermarket crank trigger you can still use the factory cam signal. Unlike the aftermarket solutions the OEM cam signal has one tooth for each cylinder and the width of each tooth is different so the ECU can tell exactly which cylinder just hit TDC. The utility of this is probably a little questionable when all you really need is one tooth to indicate that the cam has reset but I'm sure Nissan engineers would never overdesign something for questionable benefit.

If it is low on refrigerant definitely do not just recharge and keep going. Leaks let moisture into the system which is a good way to saturate the receiver/drier with water and start damaging the compressor and other components with internal corrosion.

The hose you clamped is not just for the AAC valve, there's also an intake air regulator/cold start valve in there that affects your idle: Verify that your cold start valve is actually getting power and closing after some time. To some extent this is just guessing because your intake is clearly not stock and it's unclear whether the routing of your vacuum lines is still the same as factory especially because your crankcase vent lines are gone. I also must emphasize that as a general rule once you set the AAC idle screw on an engine that is otherwise mechanically perfect (no leaks/etc) you should never ever touch it again. Your idle getting out of whack is never going to be fixed by touching a screw that has extremely limited control authority, and it is never a good idea to band-aid over some issue with air control by touching that idle screw even if it does work.

IACV/AAC valve is normally closed. So without power it should be fully closed. Fix it but that's probably not your problem.

Smoke test and stop messing around.

Wasn't there a guy that mentioned having issues with running synthetic gear oil during the break-in period?

What would be the causative mechanism though? I can picture potential issues but everything is spinning whether the clutchpacks are engaged or not.

It’s possible it is LSD chatter, the driveshaft and everything else in the AWD system is always turning regardless of whether the transfer case is locking up. So whatever issue you’re experiencing is only happening under torque transfer.

What vibration? You lack specificity in describing the symptoms. The only thing I can imagine causing this is driveline binding from incorrectly sized tires.

I think this is the BCNR33 part. I have no idea how much that matters though.

Your battery is probably dead, sounds like you're losing voltage during the crank which is causing the relays to start clicking.

By soft fuel cut I mean what was discussed before, cutting fuel to cylinders in a random fashion. So maybe every engine cycle (720 crank degrees) you are cutting fuel to one of the six cylinders. Or maybe two of the six cylinders. You cannot reduce injector duty cycle because that will just cause a lean-out that blows up your engine. Stopping ignition to all cylinders while still injecting fuel is a hard ignition cut limiter. Continuing to inject fuel like this without ignition is a very dangerous game to play, the air and fuel will be mixed properly and any spark or sufficient heat will cause it to ignite, possibly in the exhaust which can damage the cylinder head and turbine. As a general rule if you need to hard cut rev limit you should cut all fuel injection to all cylinders. OEMs do this not just for emissions reasons but also because it's a lot safer. Just the air pumping through the engine with no fuel will cool things down. The only danger as I mentioned is if your transient fuel control is not good, then constantly cutting fuel injection and resuming may cause lean-out. DBW is easier for this reason, just force the throttle to close to reduce torque instead.

Reminds me of the rear jumpseat option in the Model S. You could, but why?

The mechanic is now a fugitive, supposedly not the first time he did this either: https://www.thedrive.com/news/44666/subaru-speed-shop-owner-disappears-with-customers-engines-and-cash-report

NDC makes a lot of bearings for Japanese companies as far as I can tell. They may actually be the supplier for Nissan OEM bearings. Make sure you don't get counterfeits and make sure you actually measure the clearances so you get the correct size bearing shells.

This is just the unfortunate reality of modifying cars in general. It really sucks but there's so many shoddy machine shops out there, shoddy mechanics, shoddy parts, etc. These projects are a lot of heartache, I don't think it's really possible to avoid that. I know someone who had their Subaru sitting in a mechanic's shop for two years before discovering that his mechanic parted it out for cash, left the roller outside to get towed, then skipped town. If you're really giving up on it I'm sure people would be interested but it'll definitely be hard to find someone that isn't looking for a deal.

It's not too complicated but you will need to test it in the real world with ECU logs to refine it. As you have correctly identified you have to be careful about how you implement your strategy because reducing throttle input can cause the ATTESA system to reduce transfer case pressure, which is probably the opposite of what you want to happen when the car is losing traction. Also, if you're going to be building this thing to output 800 hp consider the impact of both soft fuel cut and ignition timing retard on the engine. Soft fuel cut will need some work to make sure AFRs don't go too wonky and some work to make sure the harmonics generated by running only 4 or 5 cylinders doesn't cause problems, ignition timing retard make cause EGTs to skyrocket past safe levels. The "front torque meter" in an R34 GTR is in the MFD. It is a number that exists, but is not particularly useful. It is not measuring anything. It is basically just an internal conversion table that takes the duty cycle target from the main torque split routine and converts it to a "kg-m front torque" value based upon whatever conversion they had from testing a prototype. The actual state of your transfer case clutch pack including the age and order/orientation of the clutch plates, the fluid used, the state of the fluid, the state of the pump's ability to produce pressure, the actual grip of the front tires, the actual torque output by your engine, etc all impacts how much torque actually gets sent to the front wheels especially because the factory front diff is open. My first thought would be DBW to let the ECU be able to close the throttle and in the ECU output to ATTESA instead of sending it something related to TPS voltage I would instead take accelerator pedal position. Do some experiments to figure out how the factory TPS voltage is related to accelerator pedal position so you can get close to stock behavior at first. Also you should know that the TPS voltage is not sent exactly as-is to the ATTESA controller, instead it's some percentage of the TPS voltage.