joshuaho96

Isn't Dodge running the AC compressor to cool the intake charge on the Demon? I doubt the math would work out on an NA engine but in a forced induction engine where you can justify the giant volume of an A2A intercooler...

It's not really the color, just the fact that you're using an abrasive pad at all. The bits coming off it of tend to get into engine passages and damage things when it circulates through the oil/coolant/etc. I learned all about this fun stuff when I was debating what to do to remove the old paper gaskets on my oil cooler/oil filter housing. With a cast iron block you can probably use a razor blade, just go perpendicular and don't push the edge into the block. Super time consuming and annoying but that was the guidance I got from a local machine shop as well. They have had issues with people using roloc brushes/scotchbrite/etc. With an aluminum head I honestly have no clue how you're supposed to do it. I would probably get it blasted with dry ice or something similar that is guaranteed to not get debris in any passages. When I removed old gasket from the intake ports I used some paint stripper with butyl rubber gloves and a plastic razor blade. It sucked, took forever, I'm probably going to get some terrible disease in the future, but at least I didn't mar the cylinder head at all.

I don't understand, why not replace the valve guide? Am I missing something here? Talk of sealants and o-rings sound like solutions you might try in an emergency.

You could clean out an oil cooler after failure, it just costs a lot more than you'd expect and it's not worth it for anything that you can easily buy new.

The Nismo plenum only makes sense if you want a few key design elements like the longest intake runners you can fit in a factory ITB setup and the different intake runner designs to avoid leaning out cylinder 6 to some extent. A single plenum design like the Nismo as far as I can tell will never actually work perfectly at equalizing airflow between cylinders. Dollar for dollar it is a horrible upgrade IMO but I have weird priorities. HKS is working on a dual plenum design that may be more what you're looking for and will be single DBW throttle body.

Be super careful with green scotchbrite like that, GM explicitly says to never use that anywhere near an engine because they've had a ton of engine failures from the scotchbrite ending up in the engine internals.

I think it's partially to make sure you can't get into boost, but also to try and reduce how much thermal energy the turbine absorbs. This is only for the first minute of operation or so, even the transient effect of the exhaust hitting a cold turbine probably has a measurable effect on how fast they heat up the catalytic converters. Modern emissions is pretty wild and it seems with Euro 7 it's going to get even crazier unless they hit the brakes on how crazy they want that to get. Supposedly the regulators are thinking about mandating live emissions monitoring and reporting to central authorities in addition to another massive cut in emissions over Euro 6d.

Plenty of them in OEM applications, primary value to the OEMs is to be able to open the wastegate completely during cold start to warm up the catalytic converters much faster. That and they can fully close off the wastegate at WOT to help maintain boost at high RPMs for small turbos. HKS has also put them on their "advanced heritage engine concept":

I should probably stop huffing quite so many solvents in the garage.

That's still really far off from something that estimates driver intent based on steering angle/lateral g and possibly also activates the brakes. Not dumping on the Haltech, it's good but I'm not sure that any standalone ECU in general is really going to support some crazy complicated thing like what you see in a current year M3.

It's not bad but it's hard to say what OP is looking for. If they're looking for something on par with MDM DSC in BMW M cars or VDR R mode in the R35 GTR you need so much more than just a throttle cut vs slip ratio. I don't even know if it makes sense to bother with something that complicated.

https://www.full-race.com/ets-pro-nissan-skyline-gt-r-center-differential-attesa-torque-split-controller-for-r32-r33-r34 If you want a new ATTESA controller this is what you're looking for. If you want more after that then you're looking at some kind of stability control/traction control which requires DBW to execute properly and I believe is beyond what your average Haltech is capable of. Most ECUs out there are only going to do something like cut throttle if too much slip is detected. Nothing near what a modern stability control system is capable of. Maybe a Life Racing or similarly motorsport oriented unit can be on par with modern VSC/TC.

In order to delete the AAC valve and intake air regulator you would have to go to DBW. In order to delete a bunch of coolant lines you'd either have to decide you don't want cabin heating anymore. I spent months tearing down that side of the engine all the way to the front diff and replaced every single coolant and vacuum line. Let me know what you want to try deleting and I can probably explain what it does. If you plan on going single throttle body you can definitely do DBW and simplify the underside of the intake manifold quite a lot. Unfortunately though if you want to keep ITBs and a cable throttle a lot of that crap has to stay.

Don't fuel pumps already have pressure relief valves?

https://www.gtrusablog.com/2016/11/does-your-hicas-light-turn-on-after.html Start with this diagnostic for the HICAS. Engine diagnostics are separate from HICAS. If someone has messed with the wiring there's realistically no way for any of us to give you a useful answer though. You're going to have to see how it's actually wired up now and go from there.

Inspection camera time, check and see if cylinder 4 has a ton of oil on the intake valves.

Yeah, I'm just curious as to the specific elements that are worse on the RB and whether those are fixable. I know about the oil pump drive but the other parts I'm fuzzy on.

What harmonics in particular? I don't know too much about what happens at 10k RPM for these engines.

Have you tried pulling the codes from the ECU and HICAS CU?

Looking for part number 17221-70T00 and I believe 17240-70T00. The pipe that is basically the first thing you see when you remove the gas cap.

Knowing who built the engine he will probably be taken care of but for normal people it's pretty fair to say if this happens you are 100% SOL unless the same shop that builds the engine is also doing the tune for it.

The centerlines on most aftermarket cams are different from stock, so keeping the same settings on aftermarket cams after adjusting for stock wouldn't make sense necessarily. You'd want to try stock cams + timing, then aftermarket drop-in cams at their default timing, then use the cam gears to adjust the timing back to be the same as stock cams. Also, don't forget to torque those cam gears to spec and use blue loctite because otherwise this can happen and you'll bend a bunch of valves and maybe destroy your head too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kI7GFPYDtOo&t=625s

Is it any different from Gran Turismo Sport?

I'm afraid to strip stuff so I would get the right socket but yeah that's external torx. I've also seen 12 point hex before when I changed a fraying seatbelt out on my car.

That's correct, the idle was about 1050 rpm with the AAC (aux air control/idle) valve at 0% duty cycle before, now I have it idling around 950 rpm with the AAC valve at ~35%. In my case I basically pulled apart the entire intake side of the engine and replaced almost every hose/hose clamp as a major overhaul. I don't think you need to go that far. What I would look out for on the intake side of the engine would be stuff like leaking throttle body shaft seals, failed intake manifold gaskets, cracked vacuum lines, things of that nature. I would also check your idle control valve to see if it's working properly. Unfortunately I don't have a great solution for how to verify the cold start valve isn't getting stuck open as it's wax thermostat valve that opens/closes based on coolant temperature. If you do replace any hoses and/or hose clamps I recommend a very thin film of o-ring grease on the hose barbs to help the hose slide on and seal properly.