joshuaho96

Even in the JZ engines it's pretty well known that having combustion in the exhaust from anti-lag can absolutely wreck your valvetrain.

AFAIK in the R35s disabling the AWD makes them especially awful to drive because the suspension isn't really optimized for rear-end grip, it leans quite heavily on the AWD system. The R32 to my knowledge is similar, the rear-end has a pretty ridiculous amount of anti-squat from the factory.

Yeah and the STI/WRXs are even cheaper to buy right now. I tell everyone that you have to have some weird brain damage like me to be willing to bother with the sheer amount of pain in the butt involved in these cars. They aren't super complicated by modern standards, a BMW N63 or really any modern GDI turbo V6 makes the RB26 look like a joke by comparison but there are still a lot of tricky details to get right in these cars unless you want it to just be perpetually broken.

Also, let's be real here the new Nissan Z is probably going to be both cheaper and faster than any GTS-T/GTT. RB noises are cool and inline 6s are smooth but it's really hard to argue with what seems to be a real winner. Hiroshi Tamura interviews are surprisingly low on the marketing BS and he seems to get what matters and why.

My advice is don't learn to wrench on cars with half the parts catalog NLA and pretty much every bit of rubber is perished, it really sucks and is incredibly unforgiving if you make a mistake. I know a guy with an ST205 GT4 and he is pretty depressed that he can't figure out a bunch of mechanical issues and also sourcing parts is either insanely expensive or totally discontinued/NLA. Also, you cannot rely on these cars as daily drivers, nor should you really want to. Your local driving environment may be safer than mine but in my area the number of SUVs and lifted trucks is massive and people drive horribly. Arterial roads have speeds of up to 80-90 kph/55 mph but it's interrupted by traffic signals and terribly designed highway off-ramps and on-ramps so you can have that 90 kph traffic interacting with 40 kph/25 mph traffic. I have seen what accidents look like in these cars and I'd avoid it at all cost. If you have a GTI my advice is start there and actually learn to work on those cars. Don't listen to cargo cult bro-science, actually try to understand the engineering and the underlying principles. Don't be like half the people I run into on Facebook groups asking how to delete "useless crap" like the AC idle up valve lines. Do all the maintenance and upgrades to that car while you figure out how to land a job and stable living situation that allows you to actually afford a Skyline without ruining your life in the process. Also spending 30k in "upgrades" on your GTI doesn't seem well-informed either, if it's a daily driver don't go wild modifying it into something that it isn't. My daily is a bone stock LS400 because I cannot be bothered to deal with unreliability when I need to get to work. If you really want to get into these cars because you're afraid prices will get even more ridiculous than they are now, all I can suggest is negotiating with your parents to have them buy and own the car with an option to buy it from them when you turn 25 at the price they paid plus maintenance costs. I wouldn't recommend buying anything other than a GTR or GTST, everything else is basically taxi spec and "converting" it will cost far in excess of what it would cost to just buy what you wanted to begin with.

Pikes peak is paved due to the environmental concerns, the old track had too much runoff supposedly.

It sounds like he will at some point.

Cool to see that they at least found that EGTs had less spread with the Nismo collector. They didn’t really find low end or midrange gains on the dyno but weirdly enough he makes mention of having to add more fuel to the tune at low RPMs and part throttle. Seems like it does reduce the off-boost lethargy a bit even if the dyno pulls they did didn’t show it very well. Also interesting that deep into the revs they found that they made more power with less boost. Not much but it’s there.

That... doesn't really make any sense? Why wouldn't it have a rev limiter?

I would've just sold the car and called it a day at that point.

Yeah, I'm just glad my stupidity didn't require me to tear apart my entire intake manifold again. I checked every cylinder after that up to the intake valves to see if any debris had made it into the engine but I didn't see any signs of issues. Took it for a test drive and the car seems to run properly now. Idles properly too, before I could tell the ECU couldn't hit the idle target so it just had the AAC valve perpetually closed in an attempt to hold it around 1050. Now it idles at 950 rpm with about 33% AAC duty cycle.

I'm just so glad it came out as a single big wad instead of getting shredded to bits. Genuinely was terrified that I was going to have to pull everything apart again to fix this.

The dirty secret of almost all of these aftermarket injector companies is that they do not do much, if any R&D in most cases, they're just relabeling Bosch, Denso, or Siemens injectors. They might decap the injectors for higher flow and maybe also match them again so that they actually function properly. Check your injector against these, I bet they are a direct match: https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/1759 The one exception maybe that I've seen is Nostrum Energy out in Michigan. If you read Glassdoor reviews they have ex-employees that complain pretty mightily about how they want to be a big time OEM supplier like Bosch or Denso but they waste their time on direct to consumer aftermarket parts. AMS Performance uses their HPFPs for the VR30DDTT as they've designed a custom HPFP that flows a lot more than stock and is also E85 compatible.

Yet another bump because I can't edit my posts. Turns out I'm a huge idiot that left a paper towel in there:

How is the idle? Are all injectors flowing properly? I recommend running a cylinder balance test where you disable injection on each cylinder at low idle and see if any one of them seems to have a weak influence on idle RPM, they should all drop the same amount of RPM when you turn it off.

It was pretty curious, I noticed that the ECU basically doesn't do closed loop idle control if it doesn't see the idle switch. So it can idle low or high depending on coolant temp. I suspect it's also to help transient fueling control as well, it can be pretty hard to tune throttle tip-in just off idle.

Major thread bump, for the RB26 (and likely the RB25 I'm guessing) the idle switch is a mysterious thing that somehow resets if you unplug the 5V supply (not the connector with the EV1 style metal clip) while the ECU is on. No need to do weird key tricks, no need to run the engine at all. Just turn the key on to get the ECU running, adjust the TPS to get the requisite 0.45V at idle, tighten it down, then unplug the TPS and plug it back in. It seems an awful lot like the ECU is using TPS voltage for idle detection but if you look at the R33 FSM it details how there's a physical switch in the TPS and that directly goes to the ECU for idle detection. I have no idea how that works.

I fixed it. Turns out with the first heat cycle (or something?) the throttle coat decided to jam the throttle partially open. Solution is to repeatedly let the throttle body slam shut on spring pressure until it smooths out.

Any advice for how to fix an ITB that has had its full close stopper slip? My cylinder 5/6 ITB did this and there's basically no way for me to adjust the ITB linkages properly. Really dreading pulling the engine all apart again to fix this.

You're supposed to have that feed before the throttle body, this looks like a single TB conversion so look for where the TB is and put that hose before it. As others have said DBW is the way to go but it's up to you.

Definitely get a rubber adapter designed for your jack stands if you're going to put the jack stands on the pinch welds. You will regret it if you don't. I haven't had issues with my alibaba special adapters but it's really important to note that I am extremely careful to inspect them after each use to make sure it hasn't been cut through by the pinch weld and I check many times to make sure the jack stand is lined up properly before I slowly lower the car onto the stands. I also use a rubber floor jack puck to avoid marring/crushing the floor jack points. That front crossmember looks really weird to me but checking around online that is in fact the floor jack point. Note that in the factory service manual the floor jack has a lifting block on it, presumably because just using a bare floor jack on it will damage the crossmember.

Do you have torque spec on those things? Generally speaking I recommend only using a short quarter inch ratchet to tighten things like this because the torque spec can be as low as 5 ft-lbs. I don't know how you'd fix the issue pictured, you'd have to ask a machine shop what they could do.

I wouldn't run pods, MAF or not.

I see the adapters you're talking about all the time, it's just a rubber block with a slot cut in it:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU This is for the US models but it can't be that different, as a general rule unless you really know what you're doing you shouldn't deviate from what the FSM states. Super important to note that the 2 post lift and emergency tire jack do not just sit on the pinch weld alone, they also contact the flat portion beside the pinch weld which is the primary load bearing surface so do not just blindly set your car down on jack stands without an appropriate adapter: