joshuaho96

Yes, the problem is the supply chain hasn't standardized on metric which makes it more expensive to source metric hardware. They're all mail order at this point. Fastenal is cheap but you can't exactly rock up to a fulfillment warehouse as a random D2C. Paying 13 USD in shipping for 3 nuts doesn't really make sense. McMaster-Carr and similar companies are all in a similar sort of boat. If you like gambling on mystery hardware Amazon is cheap too but you're going to be buying 25 of whatever screw you need. So Lowes/Home Depot ends up being the way to go if you really only need small quantities of hardware for odd jobs like trying to rebuild a power steering pump that calls for an m6x1.0 screw to pop out the flow control valve.

30 mL or something. I hate the lack of standardization on metric too, leads to annoying situations like not being able to find an M12x1.25 nut at the hardware store unless I special order or find the one store in a 30 km radius that actually stocks a non-trivial quantity of the thing so there's at least an 80% chance they haven't all been stolen.

I would try messing with friction modifier to see if it smooths it out. Just keep adding more until it stops chattering or grabbing quite so much. If you haven't changed the gear oil in a long time you may as well start there too in case that has anything to do with it. You might want to also verify the initial torque is set to the lowest setting too. Requires popping out one of the CV axles first but that's not too bad. Once you're sure the preload is set to the lowest you can try adding an ounce at a time of friction modifier until it feels right to you.

Factory LSD is supposedly a 2 way with a very conservative cam. If you've already tried adding friction modifier to the diff oil and it still locks up too much for your liking you might want to adjust the ramp rate on the cam to be more like OEM instead of reducing initial torque even further. People claim the 8 kgf-m disc kit for the OEM LSD is still very streetable but I've never been able to compare everything side by side on my own.

It is not a dual mass flywheel, so you will get some gear noise on a BNR34 unless you deviate from the OEM fluid spec and run a thick gear oil like what Nismo recommended for a while. Unfortunately I have never weighed the flywheel by itself prior to installation but it is not that light. It's probably an 8-9 kg flywheel. OEM BNR34 dual mass flywheel is like 14 kg which is kind of hilariously heavy.

I mean sure, but locally I've seen people actually break oil pump gears, especially narrow drive even without hitting the rev limiter. And that was decades ago, locals here are buying cars that have lived that life the whole time and are finding out what happens when these cars have been run hard and fixed on the cheap for 25-30 years. I do think most of the failures I've seen are cases where people "let the nissan out of it" doing improper rebuild but sometimes people really do just get unlucky after 30 years and their "60,000 km grade 4B" car decides it wants to be naturally aspirated now.

I subscribe to the M539 restorations approach to car maintenance and modification, maybe not as necessary on these cars but I have seen what underthinking does. Genuinely the number of trashed RBs I've seen locally is shocking. A local owner is trying to sell a new in box cylinder head for 5.5k USD, 05Us are being sold for 6.5k USD, 24Us are going for 15k USD. I'd rather not risk having to go down that route because I didn't want to spend what, 1400 USD rebuilding turbos? Call it a flat 2000 USD including a ball bearing CHRA.

My R33 never ran more than stock boost but it was unclear whether the turbos would last. Maybe OP's car is less of a question mark but for my stock turbos had over 175k km on them + 25 years of use. That's a very long time to hope nobody has ever accidentally put physical shock through them, no debris in the exhaust gas stream, no boost leaks that could cause the compressor to spin faster than it otherwise should, no oil coking in the journals, no wear scars for any reason, etc. You could pull the turbos and disassemble to inspect/overhaul as needed but for that kind of effort you may as well replace the ceramic turbine with something that can take a bit more abuse no matter what you find in there. Stock boost ceramic turbos really don't make that much power either.

I'd still recommend rebuilding the turbos too. That will eat up a lot of the budget especially if you aren't willing to put in the labor to R&R the turbos yourself but it's a huge risk to ignore it at this point.

Maybe I have Stockholm syndrome but working on an M2 isn't that hard. Getting parts cheaply and quickly is hard, but getting parts same day isn't necessarily hard if you're willing to pay way too much for it at local dealers. There's a lot going on, you need to have a build of ISTA on a laptop and the right cable, if you don't have the mindset of "do it exactly right or not at all" you will probably start seeing cascading failures. Skylines are a little more tolerant in that regard. The car doesn't potentially trash itself if you bought the wrong oil filter like a BMW would. Or trash the entire cylinder head and potentially spin a bearing because someone took the anti-drainback valve out of the plastic oil filter cap. An M2 will also do just fine on track, zero oil starvation concerns, factory brakes are great if you change the pads for a high temp compound + flush with track-ready fluid.

I don't even know that you want an M2 Competition as a track car. My rule for a track car is only risk as much as you're willing to completely total out. Clean stock C5 Z06 Corvettes out here are cheap. Buying someone else's already ruined track car is even cheaper. Maybe I'm just not that good a driver but even a Fiesta ST on the Nordschleife felt like as much car as I could realistically handle.

I don't think the G2 profile is particularly dangerous for the engine per se, more just are you actually ok with the turbo lag trade-offs? If the answer is yes then go for it. I personally don't think I'd be ok with it because I spend so much time at lower RPMs and I really enjoy the feeling of being able to stay in 5th gear on the highway and just roll into the throttle to get boost. Or staying in 3rd gear on "gentle canyon cruises" without feeling the turbo lag too badly. The 525 pump should be able to run flat out on factory lines but I would bet the pressure drop from pump to regulator is quite impressive. I don't know how much it would be exactly but I've seen figures like 30 psi thrown around.

But the Nexus S3 is very expensive and won't be as purpose-built for the application as a separate electronic boost controller :^) More seriously my pet issue here would be that the Walbro 525 running at 100% duty cycle is going to require more FPR than the stock setup can handle. I'm also pretty sure from what I've seen elsewhere you might want to slow down the pump regardless unless you're going to come up with some way of upsizing the fuel lines coming from the fuel tank. Factory 8mm fuel line doesn't actually flow very much if you want to keep pressure drop down between the fuel pump outlet and FPR. If you really want to "keep it simple" I would run only as much pump as you need and source a fuel pump controller to slow down the pump in the vain hope of being able to run stock-style FPRs which are pretty dinky. Or just use the HICAS lines and it should be mostly fine. OP should also really think hard about what profile they'd want out of the turbo. My pet choice here would be the G1 profile rather than anything higher power but YMMV. I already think ~stock turbo lag is pretty bad so I don't want to make it worse. In "gentle canyon cruising" I found that I spent a lot of time around 4-4.5k RPM. I also recommend DIYing labor if you're detail-oriented enough. Costs are high for labor + if you do it yourself you can be your own quality control.

If you haven't replaced the OEM turbos, replace them sooner than later. I have seen recent pictures of what OEM ceramic turbo failure can do in an RB26 and it will make a 10k AUD budget look like a joke. Single vs twins have been done to death on this forum. If your turbos haven't fallen apart you can probably send yours off to Hypergear for rebuild. The journal bearing option will have more turbo lag but it's a good bit cheaper. I would probably go for ball bearing CHRA but keep in mind ball bearing turbos are more particular about oil pressure/flow.

Kaizo Industries put a VIN plate over where the Nissan plate would go. It was part of how they broke the law and attracted feds going after them.

They've had some weird failures on their brake actuators. One of them was because they added some kind of lubricant to the factory fill brake fluid that aftermarket brake fluid didn't have so it would affect the seals. Another was just mysterious, probably internal corrosion or something eating away at Prius brake actuators. Parts alone for those are a few thousand USD so not a cheap fix.

I think most of the benefit there is really from the battery as well, having 1 kWh or so means you don't need the engine running at idle to run the AC, when the battery is depleted you can run much higher idle to charge the battery at a lower bsfc point and then shut it back down, you can regen on braking to recover some of that power too. I can't imagine the benefit from only running the compressor as much as needed is huge if you're mostly only running the AC on hot sunny days where it really needs to work hard to keep interior cabin temp under ambient.

Aren't these run off of high voltage in OEM applications? Like 200+V. Or at least 48V in mild hybrids. At ~18,000 BTU ballpark nominal capacity the power draw is at what, 2.2 kW? ~185A is a pretty crazy amount of amps. At 200V it's only 11A. The 70A nominal kits with up to 100A peak draw I see for stuff like classic Porsches have pretty substantial compromises like shutting off at idle and not actually managing to keep the interior cool in hot conditions because they can only output like 6000 BTU. IMO if I had to pick what high amp draw component to retrofit to these cars I would start with the engine fan, not the AC compressor. You need an ~850-1000W brushless fan, something like this: I would love to see the data but I would bet that whatever you save by running the AC compressor in a more efficient regime with an electric motor you're probably losing to conversion losses anyways. It's not really like a clutch fan where you're losing power all the time even when it's nominally disengaged and it gets worse as it engages because the envelope tracking isn't that precise.

94 RON E10 beats the E10 we get out here, which starts at 87 AKI/~91 RON and goes up to all of 91 AKI/~95 RON. E0 doesn't even exist at most servos and when it does it's usually appallingly expensive and no more than 88-90 AKI.

R12 is probably still out there somewhere, at some ridiculous price. eBay also banned the sale of these older refrigerants on their platform so it's harder to connect to a seller now.

Not sure why but RBF660/700 or Castrol SRF is listed as DOT4, not 5.1.

This has clearly gone off on quite a tangent but the suggestion was "go standalone because you probably aren't going to stop at just exhaust + a mild tune and manual boost controller", not "buy a standalone purely for a boost controller". If the scope does in fact stop creeping at an EBC then sure, buy an EVC7 or Profec or whatever else people like to run and stop there. And I have yet to see any kind of aftermarket boost control that is more complicated than a PID controller with some accounting for edge cases. Control system theory is an incredibly vast field yet somehow we always end up back at some variant of a PID controller, maybe with some work done to linearize things. I have done quite a lot, but I don't care to indulge in those pissing matches, hence posting primary sources. I deal with people quite frequently that scream and shout about how their opinion matters more because they've shipped more x or y, it doesn't change the reality of the data they're trying to disagree with. Arguing that the source material is wrong is an entirely separate point and while my experience obviously doesn't matter here I've rarely seen factory service manuals be incorrect about something. It's not some random poorly documented internal software tool that is constantly being patched to barely work. It's also not that hard to just read the Japanese and double check translations either. Especially in automotive parts most of it is loanwords anyways.

How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.

I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways.

I'm saying if you spend some time wiring in an ethanol content sensor then it works like OEM and you don't have to plan your life around sourcing E85 of the right concentration or worrying about flashing between tunes. I would agree with the logic of "it's cheaper to pay upfront for flex fuel vs potentially an engine rebuild", especially on something like an M2. This is a good point but I could never get my Skyline insured with comprehensive coverage if it was a daily.