joshuaho96

https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/wtb-pinion-and-ring-gear-of-front-differential-bnr34.572998/ You could try and contact these people to see if they still have it. I believe in the R34 if you want to match the gearing of the R32/R33 for better engine response the closest match is the Nismo final drive: https://www.nismo.co.jp/omori_factory/original_menu/final_g/index.html The Tomei 3.692 final drive is an in-between between the OEM 3.545 that drops 120 kph to about 2800 rpm and the 3.916 that raises it to about 3050 RPM.

I would tend to agree but almost all of the hoses I removed were rusted to the hose barb. Pulling on the hose after applying a thin smear of grease with the hose clamp in place it requires quite a lot of force to expand the clamp up and over the barb, so it seems ok to me. It's almost impossible to expand the clamp as-is over the barb, it's actually easier for me to pull the hose clamp away from the hose first to release the tension, then I can pull the loose hose off and then the hose clamp. I'm sure I'm going to regret these words 3 weeks from now though when something blows off somehow and makes my life a huge pain. I would not do this, wash your engine bay and call it a day. The important thing and therefore the hard part is to make sure your hoses don't have visible dry rot.

Why would you do this? I use a very thin smear of o-ring grease (EPDM safe, but not silicone safe) on hose barbs to make them go on easier but I'm not sure this is recommended practice.

NDS2 is 70 AUD and it needs a VAG K+CAN cable which is like 34 AUD. It's free to try especially if you have any friends with what is a fairly basic OBD2 to USB cable. HKS OB-Link is a generic diagnostic tool, it's not going to even have a chance of reading out all the other CAN modules on your car, talking to those is manufacturer-specific. If you want 100% compatibility for diagnostics then get a real Consult II and whatever subscription is required to keep it functioning. I'm willing to bet that the next best thing is NDS2.

The list is not comprehensive. If you want to be sure NDS2 offers a trial mode where you can check to see if it will pair and what modules it supports. NDS2 is implementing the Consult 2 protocol so it is probably the most likely to support your car.

Have you ever tried to do a turn in a 4x4 engaged with full lock on dry tarmac? It makes some horrific noises as an immovable object meets an unstoppable force. In SUVs the owner's manual will mention a rollover risk if you try it. All four wheels have to turn at different speeds in a turn, especially during parking lot maneuvers at full lock. Modern street-oriented performance cars solve the problems of a mechanical LSD being too harsh for the street or not locking up enough for the track by using electronics to adjust how much the LSD locks or unlocks depending upon the steering angle and all that other fun stuff. The R33 and R34 VSpec have an early version of this but as far as I can tell people don't really like the A-LSD.

A lot of that stuff ended up on Facebook but I bet a lot of people are just struggling to fix mechanical issues in their super old cars these days.

Can only be a few things. Either the rubber is perished, the clamps are no good/needs tightening, or the intake pipe has a deep scratch that the rubber can't seal against. Look for dry rot on the rubber, look for deep gouges on the intake pipe, if you feel binding/etc in the worm gear when you tighten/loosen the bolts then I'd be concerned. I'm no mechanic but thankfully that's not super complicated.

https://www.nisscan.com/NDSII/index.php?content=supportedcars

Wouldn't you want a relatively thin oil for cold start? I thought that was the whole point of this multigrade oil thing.

The way you do it is you buy an S3 headlight housing and bother Kudos Motorsports to see if they're still willing to sell/make an S1 conversion kit for you. Checking around this is the only one in stock I could find and it's 5600 USD for a single side: https://trust-kikaku.myshopify.com/collections/discontinued-item/products/nissan-xenon-headlight-assy-rhs-bcnr33-663101073

At least you figured it out. Thankfully mechanical machines are a lot easier to diagnose and fix than biological ones. I highly recommend getting a Consult cable and Nissan Datascan for diagnosing this kind of weirdness in the future. You can do the "unplug coil" test with a simple click of a button on your laptop instead of dealing with 25+ year old connectors crumbling in your hands.

FYI, you can do the cylinder balance test through Consult/NDS if you have it instead of letting raw fuel go through the exhaust.

Nissan changes the part numbers all the time because they change suppliers, they make minor revisions to cut cost or whatever reason. If you look up the 21200-V720A in the US parts catalogs they list that part as the superceding part number for 21200-V7206: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-thermostat-asmy~21200-v720a.html Same goes for Amayama actually, looking up both of those part numbers they list the V720A as the superceding part: https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/21200v7206 and https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/21200v7205 I have gotten a bad superceding part number from Amayama before with a replacement hose clamp not being the correct type to fit but I've yet to see any issues with the Nissan USA parts catalogs, those seem to be standardized a lot better. I have a lot of weird obsessions but I have never seen any reason to go for NOS of older part numbers, in my experience the OEMs care enough about supply chain integrity that I don't have to worry about it.

Sure, but the difference between 10W-40 vs 5W-40 is going to be near zero at operating temperatures and at cold start the oil is going to be far thicker than what it would be at operating temperatures as well.

Is it really a problem? I see 5W40 recommended on the Nismo engines which are presumably built with basically stock clearance. It's going to shear down over time but oil change intervals on these engines are super short anyways. I dumped the oil in my R33 after just 1000 km because it seems like it picked up a bunch of deposits in suspension.

LS400/1st gen Celsiors are getting too old to really be a useful daily if the car needs any kind of serious repair/restoration whatsoever. If you find a cherry example they're ridiculously reliable for what they are and I still daily mine but I don't drive very much and it's hard to justify buying a new car when it's still reasonably safe as far as crash safety is concerned and even if I do care about the environment I drive it so little that the breakeven point on emissions is easily 10 years away. Also if it were my money I would only get the VVTi revision cars. They are actually simpler than the original 1UZ-FE as they delete the EGR pipe that is a royal pain to repair if it ever starts leaking and they get rid of the distributor ignition system with the spark plug wires going all over the place. They also have a higher precision 36-2 crank trigger and 3 tooth cam trigger. They also get DBW to eliminate all the idle/cruise control/traction control bits that clutter up the engine bay in the older models. It's harder to build the VVTi engines for power because there's more going on in the ECU tune but I don't think it's really worth it anyways considering that the only mod that makes power without going to forced induction is some exhaust headers to replace the OEM log headers. That's maybe 20 hp tops.

Do you see a check engine light when the rough running begins after 15 minutes? I would check the ECU capacitors. Have you checked mechanical and ignition timing?

You should start by looking at how hot your oil is getting first. Motive's 10W60 recommendation really only makes sense for track cars. The factory bottom-end was specced for "7.5W30" for street use, so if you're just driving slowly around town and the oil barely hits operating temperatures then just use a 5W30 or 5W40 oil. If you're going on track and oil temperatures are skyrocketing then start thinking about a high viscosity oil.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction/297279-code-p1815.html

I'm surprised you got a refund. I would have figured that between the gearbox being sent overseas and your mechanic likely not working for a Nissan dealer they would've told you to pound sand.

Is the transmission overfilled? Get the car level on jackstands and open the fill plug to see if oil comes out. Doing a search it seems like this is not an uncommon problem:

You can try and go for it, it might be ok if Mine's does a really good job for their tune. Little stuff really counts in these tests. Basically 91 AKI in California is broadly speaking something like 95 RON in Japan. It's also E10 so the stoichiometric ratio isn't quite the same, but it's not too far off. Toprank isn't really helping me with regard to preparing for CA registration, they did do the translated dereg certificate and all of that paperwork so I just need the emissions certificate from G&K, smog ref, and the VIN verification. I ended up wanting to do crazy stuff like replacing every vacuum line, hose clamp, and coolant line on the intake side of the engine under the plenum/manifold so that has been taking forever between unexpected issues, parts I forgot to order, and the realities of having a day job. I feel crazy but every time I look at all the hoses I took off, half of them either ripped one end clean off or the inner rubber stuck to the metal coolant pipe instead of the rubber hose upon removal. I'm going to have to work directly with G&K. Hopefully with all the heavy lifting I've already done my car will get through G&K smoothly but it's really anyone's guess what will happen there. Keep in mind that when you ship the vehicle you need to have someone ready at the port to get the car through customs and out of the port. Otherwise you're going to start paying hefty dock fees while random dock workers joyride your car. It's really important to get the car out of port right away when it shows up.

1. The ECU tune is going to be a big problem both for emissions and for the survivability of your engine on CA 91 octane. Mine's VX-ROM is fine on Japanese 100 RON, not fine on CA 91 octane. The little details really count and the vast majority of tuners have little to no experience tuning for emissions compliance. Transient fueling, cold start, etc is all extremely important to get right. 2. You should source something cheap for your exhaust that you don't care about for G&K. They will do extremely ugly welds and chop up your exhaust in the process. Booger welds and they will basically made the front pipe to the catback a single unit to fit their catalytic converters. 3. Nismo manifold is ok but the fuel kit is going to be more problems than it's worth. There's nothing wrong per se with those mods from an emissions perspective, the problem is making sure the tune is 100% good to go with those changes. The stock ECU logic is such that fuel injector and MAF both affect the load scales on the map, it's not a conversion from voltage -> real units -> load scales in real units, it's voltage -> arbitrary units with a scaling constant -> load scale. If you really want to run a tune + the Nismo fuel kit you can, but you're going to have to call up Mine's for a special map. They're going to have to redo the whole thing for CA fuel quality and be there at the dyno with ECU logging to be able to figure out if their tune is causing problems with emissions so they can make changes as needed. 4. Regarding registering out of state. A lot of people have told me I am an idiot/stupid/crazy/etc for continuing down the path of CA registration. To some extent they aren't wrong, but just a few weeks ago at work a sheriff's deputy walked through the parking garage running plates actively fishing for expired and out of state registration because a coworker had their license plate stolen. If I had left my R33 there with out of state plates it's very likely that they would have noticed and I would've had to deal with more headaches than I already do. I'm still not at G&K unfortunately but I'm not too far from getting my car ready for them. You really want to reduce the amount of variables they have to contend with to get your car through emissions. Personally I have disconnected the boost solenoid and I'm going to just live with the stock tune until I can get through G&K, then I'm going to try and replicate the OEM map on a Haltech, then do a proper low boost + high boost tune.

Curiously if you look at the M-LED rectangle bracket that mounts in the headlight it's metal, while the HID bracket appears to be laser cut fiberglass. So they probably have thought about things like the higher housing heating of the LEDs vs HIDs even if they half-assed the webpage. They're definitely better than the stock R32 projectors, I just wish the aftermarket had better options in general. A lot of weird priorities going on there.