joshuaho96

https://www.organizedgaragestatus.com/product-page/retro-quik-1989-1994-nissan-r32-gt-r-morimoto-m-led-2-0 From what I've heard the M-LED projector isn't as good as the Mini D2S. I've also heard that Morimoto projectors in general aren't awesome, at the key test points they're often no better than some OEM halogen projectors out there but with excessive foreground and lack of good "squirrel spotters" above the cutoff, in the US most projectors will have a tiny bit of light controlled above the cut line to illuminate signs and maybe stuff like animal tapetums.

https://www.organizedgaragestatus.com/product-page/retro-quik-1989-1994-nissan-r32-gt-r-morimoto-mini-d2s-5-0-projector-retrofit If you're going to open the lights you may as well replace the projector while you're in there.

Very normal for these cars. Robzilla pretty much covered how you fix it.

There's no need for an expensive diagnostic unit to check for codes/active test the HICAS system. Nissan Datascan and a PLMS Consult cable will do great if you have an old laptop lying around somewhere:

Regarding PS idle up that is the purpose yes. When the power steering pump pressure spikes because of full lock or low speed maneuvering it will drag the idle down otherwise so the signal is there to tell the ECU to bump the AAC duty cycle significantly. One of the few things Nissan did right was making that system electronic, on a lot of similar era Toyotas it's a purely mechanical valve and it's notorious for failing with age at which point your intake starts sucking a lot of power steering fluid.

Nissan Datascan will pull HICAS codes and allow you to run HICAS active test. I plan on running that instead of whatever this magic Konami code thing is: https://www.importavehicle.com/blog/hicas-four-wheel-steering-self-diagnosis-procedure

The screw leaking you can fix with a little bit of teflon tape. The screw is designed to be a controlled vacuum leak across the throttle body so you can adjust the idle. Checking photos online you may be able to save the AAC by re-sealing that brass plate somehow. Personally I would just buy a new one though. Either it's pressed in or threaded in somehow, I haven't seen anyone try to take apart RB25 AAC valves that far to see.

Pretty sure the answer is no. Pretty sure that it's a threaded plate that holds the solenoid-actuated plunger, so the leak is through the plunger and those threads.

VCAM requires a special intake cam in order to be able to actuate the cam phaser. So you are limited in your selection there, usually you want to match your intake and exhaust cams to some extent. Turbo engines are not the same as naturally aspirated engines. Once the engine is on boost it matters less if your VE is tailing off when you can just increase the boost solenoid duty cycle to compensate. Most turbos also have significant backpressure which can favor less valve overlap than you'd expect at high RPM compared to an NA engine as the pulse tuning effect of exhaust runner length is competing with the exhaust backpressure causing internal EGR. It's likely that these effects are why the factory exhaust cam is said to be lower duration and lower lift than the intake cam. I would love for there to be public data comparing the effect of staggering cams in either direction (more duration on intake vs exhaust and vice versa) for the RB26. As far as I can tell nobody has done it.

Yes, we're talking about illumination. If you don't know what you're looking for then it's very, very easy to think that more is more and end up with a lighting solution that is dangerous even if it doesn't appear to be blinding motorists due to the functional cutoff. Like I said before, excessive foreground illumination is one of the primary issues I see. In the US FMVSS 108 is the regulation that limits foreground illumination specifically because it provides false security. It seems like you can see more, but your night vision is actually worse and you can't see anything until it's too late to actually avoid it. At the very least you should be using a smartphone camera with manual exposure control on a tripod to get an idea for where the hotspot is on your stock lights and a wall where you can swap bulbs across and test for whether the headlight aim has changed using tape lines. Nobody is saying you need to go out and buy an AMS 5000 goniophotometer test bench which probably costs something like 150k USD and test things like the OEMs do.

Sell it as rare Impul ECU old logo, an American will snap it up for extra JDM tyte points at the next cars and coffee.

The price of the R34 and many other generally desirable cars has gone through the roof because of economic policies from the pandemic. I remember when I was looking for a car R34 GT-Rs were still 70-80k USD. A ton of money for what it was, but hey maybe not a big deal if you had to have an R34 for whatever reason. The jump to 250k+ USD has been very recent and I believe it is driven by the PPP (Paycheck Protection Program) loans that the government handed out with very little vetting. Business owners fired workers en masse and then applied for these loans as if they hadn't. Then they took the money and bought cars like the R34s. All that money chasing very few R34s means a huge demand shock.

Do you have any evap codes? If a vent valve is jammed from overfilling in the past it can cause these issues. Otherwise my experience is that most cars if you angle the nozzle closer to being perpendicular to the ground a lot of cars tend to experience less fuel frothing/obstruction that can prematurely trip the sensor. The 996 is one of those cars where the nozzle has to go in upside down.

If the timing check shows timing bouncing all over the place despite commanding a fixed value in the ECU then the most likely explanation is either the CAS drive pin on the cam has worn, the CAS drive gear has worn, or both. I suspect a number of the more severe cases of timing scatter are actually due to this issue.

Adding fluid to the reservoir shouldn't require bleeding. The rear bleed valve seems to be next to the nitrogen canister if you can locate that:

Right, but those solutions are usually packaged and designed to work nicely. For a street car that ultimately isn't about outright performance doing all the usual wet sump tricks is probably good enough. Maybe the Hi Octane kit is the way to go there but it's hard for me to say whether it's really "no compromises" for a street car when there's no real photos for how it's installed. The mention of having to swap sway bars, power steering pumps, etc... though definitely gives me pause.

Do dry sumps even make sense for a street car? Not so much a conceptual issue but the practical realities of finding space for the oil tank, oil pumps, etc.

While what Duncan said is correct that the ECU you have is very much a fixed function piece of hardware, it is important to understand something. No ECU to my knowledge is ever, ever capable of dealing with a silent injector change. You must always change the injector flow rate settings in the ECU any time you change the injector characteristics substantially. As for your Impul ECU, what kind of fuel do you have access to? If you don't have at least 100 RON gasoline in the tank you should go source a 100% stock factory ECU map, either by replacing the chip on your Impul ECU or sourcing an entire stock ECU. In California we get 91 AKI which is like 96 RON optimistically. Any Japanese chip tune ECU like that is known to destroy engines on our fuel because they run too much ignition timing. If you have the factory boost solenoid my suggestion is to unplug it and cap both ends until you get that fixed. If you think sourcing an ECU is expensive it doesn't hold a candle to having to completely rebuild an RB26 from detonation damage. To actually get an ECU you can use to tune the car with you have to get something that can be programmed. The R34 ECU cannot be programmed easily, Nistune has some remnants of it in their Type6 board support files but something happened there and the guy working on it disappeared off the face of the earth. To do so requires a discontinued Techtom daughterboard and their 90s-era software, as detailed in this thread: If you want to actually tune these cars you have a choice of either Haltech Elite/Nexus (don't get a Platinum Pro, it's no longer actively supported and the feature set is highly limited) or Link ECU. To get the engine to run like factory you will have to do a lot of work to the included "base map", the free base maps provided are not a one for one replication of the factory ECU map. It's just something they made so the engine will start and run but that's it. You should get whatever ECU your trusted (emphasis on trust) tuner recommends. Tuners tend to only learn one method of tuning and one brand's software suite/ECU, so buying anything else is going to be a waste of money.

Part number is 21475-81T00, you will need some bolts and some foam strips to seal the gaps between the shroud and the radiator as seen here: https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bcnr33/3935-rb26dett/engine/214/21475/ As for the actual installation I'm pretty sure you have to remove the fan from the fan clutch, pull it out of the engine, put the shroud around the fan, then lower the shroud + fan together back down into the engine and bolt the fan and shroud back in. I've never done it but I recall seeing people do it that way. I'm not sure your radiator is stock either, which might be why there's no shroud. Maybe a previous owner replaced the radiator, discovered it wouldn't bolt up/fit anymore and just tossed it.

If you're incompetent like me and have a day job figure more like two months, pulling the intake manifold is a very involved job and it's likely that a lot of the rubber you touch isn't going to be reusable which adds a lot of waiting time as you order parts. I highly recommend using painter's tape and a sharpie to label every nut and bolt you pull. I also recommend after every major step that you take photos of the engine bay with a phone camera so you know the orientation of everything as it goes back together. The EPC part diagrams are good but no replacement for actually being able to tell what orientation a heater hose needs to be in, nor will it tell you what direction hose clamps should face so they don't grind into your intake manifold when you go to put it back on. I've also been keeping a journal of notes along the way, any little gotchas to look out for so you remember when you put it back together. It's a lot better than say a BMW S63/N63 engine but it's no walk in the park.

Usually you only do it to pieces that show corrosion. More important than that is your radiator has no fan shroud which is going to be a problem if you ever get stuck in stop and go traffic.

Easiest way to test is try a fixed timing test like 15 degrees regardless of load/RPM, get a timing light on it and see how much it jumps around while you rev. Load doesn't really affect timing scatter.

If you aren't testing you don't really know. A lot of the time I see people confuse excessive foreground illumination for better lighting, the critical test points are something like 0.4 degrees below level in the SAE/US standards. Foreground illumination actually has a number of problems that are dangerous for night driving, it gives a false sense of confidence because your immediate surroundings are brighter but when you're doing 120 km/h anything you see from foreground lighting is impossible to react to, by the time you see it you're going to hit it. Only light just below level will have a chance of illuminating something far out enough to actually see it. On top of this excessive foreground actually makes it harder to see everything else because it's affecting your night vision. And on top of all of that in the rain foreground illumination just turns into glare as the water becomes a specularly reflective surface that bounces light into the eyes of oncoming traffic. Probably the easiest test to do to get an idea for if the LED replacement is any good is to compare the level of the light when using the OEM spec bulbs vs the LED replacement. If the level of the cutoff changes at all that means the optics are not focusing properly, nothing good can come from that. Even if you adjust the level you will probably have worse illumination than when you started. Some suggested reading: http://automotiveledresearch.com/testing-osram-ledriving-hl-h11-gen2-headlight-bulbs/ The inspection equipment they use in Japan for headlight compliance seems to give some indication of where the hotspots are as well, personally after seeing this I'd probably consider a proper retrofit as the hotspot appears to be well below the cutoff:

Did you measure the photometric test points for your locale? Or at least a similar LHD/RHD locale? You seem confident so I'm interested in seeing the data if you have it.

It probably makes the hose barbs that are plastic that much more fragile over time but keeping the coolant circulating is probably a good thing.