joshuaho96

It probably makes the hose barbs that are plastic that much more fragile over time but keeping the coolant circulating is probably a good thing.

I'm pretty sure, but keep in mind 08/1993 to 02/1994 there's a heater control valve part listed as a part of those hose connectors. No idea why and when I go to search up the part number I can't find any photos of it. The english name used is pretty funny so it leads to some jokes on old forums but not much else. I don't know how necessary it is considering how the BCNR33 doesn't have any mention of a heater control valve at all. The BNR32 has a heater control valve that stops the flow of coolant right at the heater core inlet and a water sensor approximately in the same spot as where the heater core bracket is for the R33s. The BCNR33 part diagram for the same parts shows nothing, which implies to me that coolant is always circulating through the heater core.

Part number is 92425-70T00, it's just two plastic tubes attached to a metal bracket: https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3898-rb25det/electric/278/92425/

If you guys are going to be putting LEDs in housings that are clearly not designed for them, at least get the CRUIZE LEDs which are at least Shaken compliant. It's not the same as ADR compliance but it's better than nothing.

If we're going to revive a thread like this we should discuss the recent drama around this article: https://www.50ignite.com/blog/technical-blog/article-3-back-to-back-testing-of-370z-coils-re-co

As a general rule I thought hydrocarbons and rubber don't mix? I got a bunch of penetrating oil and other fun stuff on some old hoses as I was taking my engine apart and it was really obvious that it damaged them. I wouldn't risk taking anything like that to rubber I actually wanted to keep.

It's listed on the EPC under "front door panel and fitting", original part number for the RH is 80220-22U00, LH is 80221-22U00. Should bring up the superceding part numbers. The LH is definitely discontinued but might come back under another part number at laughable cost under the Nismo Heritage Parts program, if they made the RH side as recently as last year they might do it for the LH side if they think they can sell out their MOQ. RH is an open question, I have no idea if they're still available but we'll see if my order goes through. To get that one stupid rubber piece you have to buy the entire assembly. In classic Nissan fashion the part was barely painted from the factory so they tend to be extremely rusty when pulled out of the door, so to do the repair "properly" you need to mask off the rubber and get it painted so it doesn't rust again. Looking around you should also expect to spend a lot of time with the door disassembled and adjusting it so the window slides correctly as it seems to be a guide rail for the pillarless windows. This Minkara blog talks about the production dates on their parts, they mention that the driver side part run seems to be relatively recent (2020?) while the passenger side is much older, more like 2016: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/322508/car/2941721/6237254/note.aspx The R32 has a different design, you only need the door rubber seal 80830-04U10 RH and 80831-04U10 LH instead of buying an entire structural component of the door like the R33. I don't really understand why Nissan didn't make the rubber weatherstripping a separate piece like the R32s even if they wanted to have the glass guide be a separate component in the door.

Something about these RBs just makes for huge headaches when it comes to dropping bolts. My very first interaction with the car was changing the plugs out to see if it would cure a misfire. I immediately dropped one of the coilpack cover bolts down the intake side of the engine. I called it a total loss and ordered a set of replacement bolts just to have, but I found the original bolt months later jammed in one of the ITBs, right in a little gap between the intake runners and a reinforcing bridge in the part.

This thread reminded me to order them. LH side is discontinued for R33s, we’ll see if it ever comes back.

Sonax rubber protectant? That won't magically make those rubber seals look brand new but it'll help keep things from getting worse. It'll also make it look less faded for a while.

You have a point there, but the finer points of how the sensors work tends to be a reason why tuners don't like MAF-based tuning. The old hot wire sensors will see weird behavior in transients that requires min/max clamping. Card style hot film is better about reversion but the other issues still apply. There's also all the fun stuff that comes with MAFs on heavily modified intakes, usually OEM engineers sweat those details so there aren't weird issues causing a lot of noise in the MAF signal, etc... I've talked to a number of tuners and even Haltech USA tells me nobody seems to care about MAF support in their ECUs, so they don't really have a lot of experience there. Link support will also say similar things, their near-universal advice is run speed density on their ECUs because tuners don't really use the MAF support so they don't put much effort into maintaining it properly. Personally I don't care, if the factory setup is MAF and after thinking hard on the tradeoffs MAFs still make sense then I'll do whatever it takes to make it run properly, but I don't think that's how most tuners operate. Yes, there's no need to revert a Nistune mod. Personally I would keep it even after switching to a Link as a diagnostic tool while developing a base map properly.

The Nistune is a daughterboard that attaches to the OEM board. The Nistune Type 4 WC34 JECS board uses your OEM Consult port to connect to a tuner's laptop rather than cutting a hole in the ECU case for a USB port. So it is a fully reversible mod, especially when it comes to changing your ECU out for a Link standalone. There is no point in bothering to revert your ECU back to factory condition once you get a Nistune installed though, if you want the factory ECU map you can just flash it at any time and it will work just like factory. The only difference is unlike the OEM ECU you can see even more live diagnostic data. You will lose some conformal coating on the OEM ECU board in order to get to the solder joints so don't drop water on your ECU for any reason after that unless you apply new coating. Tuning Nistune requires a different approach to how you would tune something like a Link, both because you're dealing with what is effectively compiled code (how the ECU does the math) and because the ECU uses MAF primarily as the load scaler. Most people are unfamiliar with how MAFs work.

I forgot which section of the forum I'm in. If you have a WC34 S2 with a JECS ECU then it can be remapped with Nistune. Load index maxing out at 88 is an RB26 thing, not RB25.

If you have a Nistune you can read the TP load index, if you're hitting 88 that means you've reached the limits of the stock map. Maybe you have a very high RPM/load misfire that is going to get worse but it could also be that you need a slight remap.

If the car is overboosting it will hit an R&R corner of the map. The calibration engineers set up the map so that as you exceed the load expected by the stock turbo the engine will run noticeably rich and pull ignition timing. I believe there is also protection if you exceed the airflow the MAFs can read.

https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/n1-oil-pump.565753/#post-5759331 The N1 pump has the same flow rate as an RB26 OEM pump, the difference is basically in the gear dimensions and profile.

AFAIK in the RB26 section of the service manual it explicitly says not to take apart the AAC valve. If you took it apart once there's no harm in taking it apart again to see if you can save it.

Your oil pump has to have some amount of backlash in the gears, otherwise any little bit of a thermal expansion would probably cause the gears to bind and destroy the entire assembly. When you have a rapid transition from acceleration to deceleration like a hard fuel cut I'm pretty sure that the oil pump gears and the collar on the crank are not staying in perfect contact with each other, instead they're changing RPMs at subtly different rates. So the steady state load you'd predict from something like a pull to 7000 RPM is no longer valid, instead you have to consider the maximum relative acceleration and the resulting impulse from impact when that lash is taken up again. Some sources: http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/01/real-problem-with-rb26-oil-pump.html

If this is a two wire knock sensor you should verify that there isn't a short to ground. Also make sure you don't have a marginal connection by tapping the wires while you test their continuity. If you have solid contact with the terminals the whole time but you see resistance changing as you move the wires around it's possible that there's a break in the line that is just staying connected part of the time.

If you choose to retain the stock AAC valve and want to buy a new one the cheapest source I found in the US was PartsForNissans: https://www.partsfornissans.com/p-jdm-nissan-r34-skyline-rb25det-neo-idle-air-control-valve-b3781aa500

Doesn't it logically make some sense that the factory low mount manifolds are going to spool faster than high mount? To generate pressure on the intake side requires backpressure on the exhaust side, the more exhaust volume you have to fill the slower that happens.

You don't even need to search for previous topics that talk about all of these questions, this has already been answered in this thread. The -9 is barely different from a -7. They will bolt on the same. As for response and power you can either look at the compressor maps already posted and other comments in this thread or use some google and find threads like this: Tuning ICE is not exactly for the faint of heart and RB motors are especially expensive to make mistakes on. Don't be penny wise pound foolish about this stuff. Again, you should think deeply about what you want from the engine before you start putting down the better part of 10k USD to modify it. What do you like about the engine/car as it is now? What do you want to change about it? What is important to you? What do you want to use the car for? If you can't answer those questions clearly you shouldn't change anything until you can.

Instead of just guessing you should unplug the solenoid connector and measure the voltages on all the pins with the ignition on. If you see the ATTESA controller engaging the pump solenoid and the pump is locking up the transfer case then there's no point in trying to replace the pump assembly, it's just doing what it's being told to do. I would be concerned that you have something in your car's harness that is injecting voltage to the pump solenoid even though the ATTESA controller is not commanding it. That would definitely throw a fault code as the controller can detect what appears to be either a short circuit or open circuit.

Personally I would do flex fuel these days not only for all the performance benefits but also as a futureproofing measure. Even if oil extraction stops for the most part as cars electrify the US will almost certainly have tons of ethanol, especially as cellulosic ethanol starts reaching mass production. E85 in my area is already substantially cheaper than the 91 AKI E10 that passes for "premium gas".

It's a very simple circuit, chase the wires. Shouldn't be seeing any battery power to the solenoid with the car off, the positive side is shut off by the ignition switch.