joshuaho96

And if you’re going to bother with wiring a pump and relay you may as well do PWM fuel pump control. I wouldn’t bother with trying to source a good R32 ECU with Nistune for an R33/R34 with no type 6 boards available.

I have recently sent my OEM RB26 injectors out for service as a part of preparation for California emissions. Also as a part of that because I really don't want to waste perfectly good o-rings 6 months down the road I asked them to test the dead time and all that fun stuff. The spec for the stock injectors at 3 bar was something like 480 cc/min, I got 500 cc/min on average. The OEM ECU reports 0.77 ms dead time, their testing reported closer 0.5 ms. I asked them multiple times whether that made any sense, especially whether 4 bar having roughly similar but slightly lower dead time was normal for old injectors. Their answer was yes. I haven't started engine map development yet so I can't say whether their report was truly accurate but something to think about.

Definitely don't parts cannon your way out of this. As a part of the cam belt service the CAS has to come off. I would look very carefully at the CAS and the bits that it interfaces with to verify that nothing is worn or has play. If for whatever reason it was binding against the cam drive that could cause the symptoms you're seeing. If you're worried about plugs pull them and inspect them. It's not a modern car where pulling plugs is a massive ordeal so it's fine to put used plugs back in if there's nothing wrong with them.

Just use car wash soap on a cold engine, don't use a pressure washer. Don't use anything crazy like Superclean which is sodium hydroxide.

Regarding this picture: The leftmost hose barb is for boost control. The "water tube assembly" you're talking about has both vacuum lines and coolant pipes. That is the green line pictured on the vacuum diagram labeled as the boost source. The second from the left is the air feed for the cold start air valve, Nissan calls it an intake air regulator. That's a valve with a bimetallic strip in it that closes as it heats up. This piece is right under the intake manifold and is basically impossible to get to without pulling everything else off first. The rightmost is the AAC valve air feed as you have mentioned. The factory system is super basic bleed-style, when the solenoid opens it is bleeding the green boost source line to the rear turbo pre-compressor inlet, the wastegate actuator sees less boost as a result and doesn't open as far. As for how you should set up your MAC (presumably 3 port) solenoid, I would reference this article which details it pretty well: https://www.onpointdyno.com/boost-control-plumbing-get-it-right-save-money/ My entire intake side of the engine is still in pieces scattered across the garage so I can easily take photos of all this crap if need be, including how the lines should be and what they should look like. Keep in mind there are special orientations for a lot of these hoses, the manual likes to make mention of this multiple times.

I've never understood why people do this when there is a dedicated fitting on the back of the balance tube for the factory boost gauge.

I would recommend the DW440 brushless over that pump, they have an S14/S15 install kit so it's direct fit for the R33/R34s as well. If you're going to run new wiring and all this other stuff you may as well spend a little more on the pump and have something truly E85-proof. The brushed fuel pumps that are E85 compatible will still have a shorter lifespan on E85, brushless fuel pumps don't care at all. I am big on buy once cry once though.

8.5L is the system capacity, how close you will get to draining all of it depends on how far you go in draining the car. Coolant choice depends on what coolant you already have. If you have the Nissan green or blue then use that. If you have something else in the system then get the same. If you don't know what you have and don't want to take chances then flush the system with distilled water, then refill with whatever you want.

17042-RRR46 from Nismo, it's 1200 USD or so. Tomei USA (not to be confused with Tomei Japan) sells something that looks like the Nismo pump but is half the price: https://www.z1motorsports.com/fuel-pumps/tomei/tomei-r34-gtr-high-flow-fuel-pump-upgrade-276lh-p-10499.html If you want to run a DW300 my recommendation is to re-wire the fuel pump and to figure out a controller for it as well. Any little thing like high pressure drop across the fuel lines will mean that you're at the ragged edge of blowing the fuel pump fuse and you'll probably start burning marginal connections anyways. The Walbro GSS342 is another option, it is 255 lph and will drop as low as 190 lph at 70 psi but you have a lot of headroom left in your wiring as it only draws about 12A upper bound. You will be limited to pump gas only and you may run out of fuel pump if you try to run high base pressure and max out the turbos.

The brushed AEM 340 lph pumps are used all over the place. They might be fine Deatschwerks, Aeromotive, etc are all using that pump I think. Keep in mind the pressure relief spec on that pump is very low, only 80 psi supposedly. So if you have excessive restriction from the fuel lines there is not a lot of margin before it pops. DW's version of that pump has a 100 psi PRV. I also don't recommend buying off ebay for everything because of the markup and also questionable sourcing for a lot of parts. Keep in mind if you run a pump that can draw 15A you need to rethink your fuel pump wiring, the factory wiring is fused for 15A and realistically you shouldn't get too close to the limit because the wiring/electronics are not really designed for big power. The factory setup has a signal coming from the ECU to switch between different resistors for the fuel pump to reduce the operating voltage of the pump at idle and part throttle. This is done to reduce the power consumption of the fuel pump, allow for a lower flow fuel pressure regulator, allow the fuel level to get lower without the pump sucking air when driving around normally, and reduces how much heat you put into the fuel. You can get away without running a fuel pump controller but with the general availability of solid state high amp relays and the sheer number of digital PWM outputs on standalone ECUs it's really not that hard to do something similar to factory. I would not replicate the dropping resistor design of the factory controller, the dropping resistor has to dissipate quite a lot of power. Personally I think the DW 440 brushless pump is worth the extra expense/work/etc, mainly because brushless pumps can tolerate E85 much better than the traditional brushed pumps out there and they have much better high pressure characteristics, usually they go out to 125 psi for the PRV and they lose a lot less flow at higher output pressure. They also draw a lot less power for the same flow/pressure.

My R33 had standard turbos when the engine was pulled as a part of the chassis refresh. I didn't trust them though and never drove the car with them. The -7s are R34 N1 turbos, but R34 N1 turbo covers something like 3 distinct part numbers. The -7s I believe correspond to 14411-AA403. If you ask Nismo they believe that the -7 spec turbos have worse transient response if you're aiming for relatively low power, hence why they released the R3 turbo kit recently which is closer to the earlier AA401/AA402 turbos: https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/nismo_parts/NEW_PARTS/index_2021.html#a22 Their 450 PS claim includes a healthy derate from what the turbos are capable of pushed to the limit, it's also using an engine dyno:

There is a built in restrictor on the GT2860/GT2859, but there's some asterisks there. If you run more oil pressure than stock, if you change the feed lines for some reason to a larger diameter, variables like that can require you to run an additional restrictor.

At least part of the reason why I actually was ok with a journal bearing turbo over a ball bearing turbo despite the downsides was just to avoid any questions/complications regarding oil pressure and flow to the turbo. It is a minefield IMO. Some ball bearing turbos have integral oil restrictors in their oil feeds, some don't, sizing will vary as well depending on your particular engine, oil pressure at the inlet obviously also varies with engine RPM and oil temperature, oil viscosity, etc. If I ever went with a ball bearing turbo I would probably just get an oil pressure regulator for the feed just for the peace of mind.

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/turbocharger-install-suit-nissan-skyline-stagea-wgnc34-260rs-rb26dett-p-5.html Genuine Nissan turbocharger gasket kit Genuine Nissan or Wurth Turbocharger turbine fasteners kit 8 x Turbocharger to manifold studs 8 x Turbocharger to manifold nuts 10 x Turbocharger turbine housing studs 10 x Turbocharger turbine housing nuts Exhaust manifold gaskets (optional) Genuine Nissan Cometic multi-layered steel (3-layer) HKS or Tomei multi-layered steel (3-layer) Genuine Nissan turbocharger oil drain hose & clamp kits (optional) HKS turbocharger oil feed banjo bolt w/built in oil restrictor & genuine Nissan crush washer (optional) The -7 and -9 turbos are both ball bearing turbos. -7s are 836026-5004S, -9s are 836026-5002S. If you get the -9s you will need to add actuators on top which are extra cost. You will need some method of controlling oil pressure supplied to the turbos, you may not have problems if you have the R34 setup as those came with ball bearing turbos from the factory but the R32 and R33 for sure will cause oil to be pushed out of the seals as those had journal bearing turbos which means much larger oil feeds. I haven't compared part numbers or anything like that to figure out whether the oil feeds are different across the generations, you can use the Nissan parts catalog to figure it out yourself. As for the difference, -7s are the following: Bearing: Dual Ball bearing Cooling: Oil & Water cooled bearings Compressor Inducer: 44.60 mm Exducer: 60.1 mm Trim: 55 A/R 0.42 Turbine Wheel: 53.90 mm Trim: 62 A/R: 0.64 Wastegated Turbine Flange: T25 with studs Turbine outlet: Unique "compact" 5-bolt pattern -9s have the following spec: Bearing: Ball bearing Cooling: Oil & Water cooled bearings Compressor Inducer: 44.5 mm Exducer: 59.4 mm Trim: 56 A/R 0.42 Turbine Wheel: 53.9 mm Trim: 62 A/R: 0.64 Wastegated Turbine Flange: T25 Turbine outlet: Unique "compact" 5-bolt pattern Do not try and order the 0.86 a/r turbine housing unless you enjoy turbo lag. The key point is to see that the -7s have a wider region of operation on the compressor but trade that with lower compressor efficiency. For example the -7 compressor will be able to operate at 7 lb/min flow and 1.5 pressure ratio (0.5 atm boost) but the -9s are going to be right on the surge line if you do that. What this translates to is the -7s will make less power, but they will be able to get the engine into boost sooner and will respond better to any breathing modifications done at low RPM like VCAM, longer intake runners, etc. The -7s and -9s are both roughly 400 hp to the wheel turbos though, not 500 whp like the -5s. And as others have said if you're chasing that much power you probably should think about going single turbo as well, that kind of power is well within the range of single turbos that are relatively well understood and with big power the problems inherent to the RB26's factory twin turbo setup become much more apparent like that pretzel-esque intake and exhaust piping is restrictive and leads to fun problems like turbo shuffle where they cyclically cause each other to go into compressor surge instead of boosting cleanly together. Sources: https://turbochargerspecs.blogspot.com/2012/09/garrett-gt28r-gt2860r-55-trim-310-hp.html https://turbochargerspecs.blogspot.com/2011/03/garrett-gt28r-gt2859r-56-trim-310-hp.html

That's just how it goes these days, if it wasn't you it would almost certainly be someone else.

I'm surprised Nissan has no plans to reproduce those weatherstrip retainers, they're trading hands at 90k yen easily.

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/turbo-exhaust-c-21_22_25_256.html

What coolant hoses in particular? There are a ton of coolant hoses and pipes in an R33 GT-R. Some of them are not that bad to get to. Some of them really, really suck to get to. Personally I am replacing every vacuum line and coolant line on the intake side of the engine in addition to the heater core lines and my Amayama order was something like 800 USD in hoses/clamps and that didn't include the 40 USD rear block heater fitting or 40 USD front coolant hose that has somehow become a Nismo Heritage part. Keep in mind that with a car this old unless every previous owner was religious about changing coolant on time it is all but guaranteed that multiple metal coolant pipes have significant rust and pitting. Either you can wet blast off the rust and fill the pits with epoxy/JB weld or source a new replacement and try some coolant hose grease on the barbs to try and discourage corrosion from forming in the future. The coolant pipe that goes from the heater core along the firewall to the intake side of the engine is 116 dollars from Amayama/Nissan Japan not including shipping/customs charges. It is also a huge pain to remove because of the dimensions of the part. Wrap all edges of it in something soft unless you enjoy leaving visible marks in the engine bay paint like I did. Also as others have said nobody is going to buy used hoses. Half of them will tear upon removal in a way that makes them unusable, even if the majority of the hose is intact you will almost certainly have the ends of the hose lose most of their inner lining as the corrosion has penetrated the rubber and will not come off cleanly. For the effort it takes to get to most of these hoses I cannot imagine even contemplating throwing a set of old hoses back on and praying they don't burst. Also, for anything under the intake manifold/plenum it is penny wise pound foolish to even bother with anything but OEM new molded hoses. It is a rats nest down there. Every single hose is molded to fit in a very specific position, trying to make do with generic hose will cost you more in time and wasted effort than the cost of the OEM part.

Almost guaranteed I would grind into the board trying that and scrap it, maybe some people have steadier hands but I assume most people aren't that precise with a dremel. Someone will surely buy it just for the Mine's name, so better to just sell it and get a stock ECU which everyone seems to get rid of for a standalone these days.

Electric water pumps still call for a thermostat don't they? I remember reading in the SAE journal papers on the 2ZR-FXE about their implementation of the EWP and that engine still has a thermostat and all that fun stuff.

I'm fully expecting the HKS GTIII-SS to be super disappointing, but I'm curious to see if they're anywhere near as good as what some tuners claim they are.

HKS GTIII-SS opinions are very mixed. If you talk to UP Garage they say it's the most responsive turbo they've tested. Their dyno charts will claim stuff like 10 psi boost by 2500 RPM, 16 psi by 3000 RPM, 400 awhp at 6800-7000 RPM, etc: But not even HKS' own marketing literature makes claims like that, usually it's much more conservative about showing the response of the turbo. More just a small step up over the GT-SS/-9s, not a huge leap in the mid-range like they found. Midori Seibi has also tried the GTIII-SS and peak torque happens closer to 4300 rpm, not ~3500 RPM like the above chart, their results are a lot closer to what I expect frankly: http://midoriseibi.co.jp/blog/4697 And of course most people are just super questionable on the idea of paying 3k USD or so for a glorified journal bearing turbo. HKS probably has seen sluggish sales of these turbos as well which is why they've started going back to ball bearing Garrett turbos. I did it and I'll try and find the reality of how these turbos are but that's going to take forever. As for the Tomei T550B nobody has published any dyno charts. Tomei's M7655 turbos that they sold before the T550B were horrible, worse than -7s in pretty much every way. As others have said I would not recommend removing BOVs, I have read of people's experiences with snapping turbo shafts due to the compressor surge when snapping the throttle shut. I doubt this would happen with anything modern but something to think about. I would avoid anything that risks metal fragments ending up in the engine unless you enjoy engine rebuilds.

I doubt you can revert, removing the epoxy would probably damage the board beyond repair. I would just try and source an OEM ECU with the stock map.

Is anyone out there that can competently say whether the Nitto sine drive pumps are better than the PRP spline drive gears in say a Tomei oil pump? What about Supertec's spline drive pump gears in a Tomei pump? What about the Spool Imports spline drive gears? What design features are relevant here? So far every time I've seen this question asked it just ends with a lot of ego, a lot of FUD, but not a lot of information. Seems like anyone who has spent the money to get the data has no interest in sharing it. We can repeat this exercise for basically every part out there. Even if the information is out there so many parts are not at all built for anything other than circuit or drag racing. Your average forged piston is just not at all suited for street use for example. They tend to require larger than stock piston to wall clearance and tend to not last very long as a result. The factory RB26 piston has a special oil cooling channel cast into the piston to help cool off the combustion chamber and eke out a bit more knock margin. I can name maybe one aftermarket piston that replicates this design feature and I have no idea if the ringpack/p2w clearance/ring tension/etc is what I would want if I ever had to open up the bottom end because this stuff is apparently some kind of trade secret judging by how every manufacturer makes you buy the product first if you want to get those specs. The trade-off space is huge and I don't think people on the balance are really doing their research. So if someone starts by asking about supporting modifications in a way that suggests they haven't even tried my answer is going to be reconsider whether it's even worth it to bother going down this path. As for whether Kinugawa turbos are worth it, just some Google will put up results like this that would scare me off from bothering: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/714884-kinugawa-td06sl2-20g.html 500 whp from these engines is totally possible, clearly at Cootamundra they're doing way, way more than that from RBs. But getting to 500 whp with the kind of reliability/durability that allowed my R33 to get to 280,000 km on the original engine still compression testing around 170 psi for all cylinders in addition to having good street manners is a real challenge.

Priuses are great cars, the engineering in them is actually quite advanced and elegant. They're also dirt cheap to buy and dirt cheap to run. I recommend them to anyone who just needs basic transportation. Priuses aside, it's just so much easier and cheaper to enjoy an RB26 with conservative power goals. Just keeping these cars running properly with all-stock everything is challenging enough, throwing a ton of power and aftermarket modifications with potentially questionable engineering validation is more headache than I'm willing to deal with.