joshuaho96

Priuses are great cars, the engineering in them is actually quite advanced and elegant. They're also dirt cheap to buy and dirt cheap to run. I recommend them to anyone who just needs basic transportation. Priuses aside, it's just so much easier and cheaper to enjoy an RB26 with conservative power goals. Just keeping these cars running properly with all-stock everything is challenging enough, throwing a ton of power and aftermarket modifications with potentially questionable engineering validation is more headache than I'm willing to deal with.

So far every time I haven't just bought the part while it was available I've regretted it. I swear everyone and their mother is hoarding parts like they plan on scalping them in a year or two.

While this is generally speaking good advice, it's also worth considering whether you will get into the endless cycle of more power for the feeling of more power. Philosophically I think it's a waste of time to try and build these cars for huge power when there are so many more platforms including the R35 that are just so much easier and cheaper to make power with. Hell, why even bother when a Model S Plaid needs no mods to set a 9.25 second quarter mile?

As a general rule, my recommendation is always to look at the torque curve first and decide what you want there. Chasing power numbers as the goal instead of what happens to fall out at the end can easily end poorly.

Talk to a body shop, they may be able to carefully bend the piece so it doesn't stick out quite so much. Keep in mind though that's easily an 800 USD part to find new if you're thinking of the part I'm thinking of.

I got it working btw, I have no idea how normal thread sealant would have worked in this application but teflon tape worked great. Started two threads in to hopefully keep the coolant from getting filled with teflon tape particles and added enough at the meat of the thread to get it to tighten up nicely in the right orientation.

I'm an idiot that gouged an o-ring groove with a pick so now I have to buy a new 250 USD oil filter housing, so any work that requires a delicate hand and a carefully considered plan of attack may be beyond me. I'll give it a shot and see how it goes.

I can buy liquid thread sealant or whatever I need, but that's not the general point of the question. The point of the question is that it seems like I can't have the threads tight with the Y-pipe in the correct orientation. So am I supposed to just leave it somewhat loose and expect the sealant/teflon tape to keep it from backing out or am I supposed to actually put a ton of torque into the part to get it in the correct orientation and properly tight?

OEM block fitting appears to have junk on the threads but that’s about it, most of it is black and looks like corrosion instead of sealant. I have some plumbing Teflon thread tape but I’m not sure that’s the right way to do this.

I now have a new dilemma for this one. I notice that the new block fitting doesn't want to be tight in the threads in the orientation pictured. It genuinely feels like I'm going to break something if I try to turn it another full turn to be truly tight. Any ideas here?

To add to this as some data, my BCNR33-005838 has the block RB26053761A on it. I suspect this engine is original as the car is pretty much stock before I got it. If we assume the VINs go upward in order and we assume no spare blocks are built for any reason then we get 53775, which is extremely close to what my block number actually ended up being.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/gtrusa/posts/1619061911630151/ Some people claim it's fine, others claim it blew up and contaminated the hell out of their AC system.

Worst case you get an entire sill section, cut out the old one, weld in the new one. Suggested reading: https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bnr32/3885-rb26dett/body/740/ https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bnr32/3885-rb26dett/body/760/

I was under the impression that Australia has had much more stringent requirements for a while now with cars getting defected for all kinds of reasons in some regions. Technically a standalone ECU that is programmable with no limitation has always been illegal for a street car. The EPA just has never had any reason to go after people until widespread popularity of coal rolling and hiding emissions equipment deletes with ECU tunes forced their hand. It sucks for the distributors caught in the crossfire for selling fairly innocuous stuff but it’s been decades of turning a blind eye on the part of the EPA.

It's your time and money, personally if I pull an engine I'm going to build it like it's never getting pulled again.

You could always ask CP how much valve relief you can mill into the pistons before it's a problem. I know some tuners out there mill valve relief out of the stock pistons to get the full 50 degrees of cam advance on an otherwise stock engine.

The question is how much performance matters for you on pump gas vs E85. Take measurements to find scavenge ratio and where you are in the turbo's operating map for both turbine and compressor. Personally I would rather have the right sized turbo for pump gas and just use E85 to get more timing out of everything but I'm not building a 3.2L drag engine.

Technically yes, the F80 M3 has just had all the feel and feedback tuned out of it and the S55 just sounds horrendous for reasons I still don't understand.

This is making me nervous now, my car has been sitting in the garage for a month now with the two fuel lines that come from the tank just sitting with nothing but a plastic bag zip-tied over the lines as a cap. The injectors are out for servicing but it's going to suck if the fuel absorbs water or something and damages the injectors as soon as I get the car back together.

I got it in the end. I got CRC Freeze-Off as mentioned before which is basically just penetrating oil and R152a combined. I sprayed what felt like half the can at least, a solid 30 seconds of spraying to get the piece very cold. Because the can I used was combined refrigerant and penetrating oil it's frankly extremely wasteful. I had a bunch of paper towels on the block under the fitting to catch all the spilling penetrating oil and even then it was still dripping all over the ground. I would probably recommend a separate can of R152a, then using your preferred penetrating oil after getting the threads properly cold. I took the time while the penetrating oil worked into the threads to go do some other chores. Then smacking a spanner with a dead blow hammer got it to break loose enough to put a 27mm socket on it and get it off. For anyone that finds this thread in the future I recommend getting soaking a paper towel in water and shoving it into the fitting when cutting the Y pipe off the fitting to keep the dust from getting into the block. I didn't do this because I'm not very smart and I spent probably a solid 45 minutes just reaching into the hole with clean paper towels/gloves to try and clean the area around the hole as best I could. I don't think all that much actually got into the engine but there's definitely an element of paranoia to it. There is also a ton of crud all over the threads so it's hard for me to tell how much of what I cleaned out of the block was from the threads. Next step is to degrease the side of the block of an old valve cover leak, pulling the oil cooler, replacing all the gaskets in the oil cooler, replacing the starter motor, then buttoning everything back up. I plan on putting o-ring grease on all the hose barbs in the hopes of keeping the hoses from rust-welding again.

Liquid water is water, the injector droplet size primarily affects surface area. Even with good injectors there is always some amount of liquid that remains on the walls of the intake. Gasoline has a much lower enthalpy of vaporization than water and transient fueling control is a big deal because despite that lower enthalpy it still tends to stick around as liquid on the intake manifold walls. Injecting gasoline to coincide with the intake valve just lifting off the seat tends to negatively affect combustion stability and raises the possibility of pre-ignition from the papers I've seen. With port injection it's pretty hard to screw it up but direct injection you can easily cause LSPI from the fuel that ends up in the ringpack/crevice volume. With water the problems I'm talking about are somewhat easier in certain regards but also worse in others. The higher enthalpy of vaporization means more wall wetting, more water makes it into the combustion chamber without turning to vapor but it's not a fuel so you don't worry about a big rich spike causing problems on decel/overrun. If you want to inject a decent amount of liquid well upstream of the individual runners your intake path needs to have balanced wet flow, which is what carb engines had to do back in the day and even then it's pretty well known that an old small block chevy V8 will need to run rich on average because the cylinder distribution of fuel is not balanced. I believe Haltech recently put out a video where Matt mentioned running into these issues. I would not be surprised if you end up with something like 80% of the upstream liquid water in an RB25 manifold going into the center cylinders and very little going elsewhere. The lean cylinder 6 thing is more an RB26 issue and seems to be multiple problems in one. The rear cylinders are the last to get coolant flow so they run hotter by default. On top of that it tends to get the most air. The geometry seems compromised in order to clear the clutch master cylinder. Balancing airflow is a real thing and if you search there are a number of guides/CFD experiments talking about it in manifold design, both for dry flow and wet flow. If you're looking for some hard data publicly posted as far as I can tell nobody likes to share hard numbers for anything in general. I can tell you that a lot of people in my area have blown RB26s and when compression tested usually cylinder 6 is the worst, then cylinder 5. @Sydneykid supposedly has the data here: I also tend to believe Nismo's claims, usually they don't just make things up. It would be weird to falsely advertise a problem (uneven cylinder airflow), then claim that fixing it with your plenum will net all of 2% more power for some hilariously high price.

Americans are only interested in overpaying wildly for something with a hilarious amount of rust and a blown engine sold by instagram hypebeasts, step one to getting 25k USD equivalent is to have a huge instagram following.

Yeah, PB Blaster but my experience with penetrating sprays has been pretty mediocre. I'll let it go overnight and see if it gets any better tomorrow. I have tried both directions, doesn't feel like anything is happening either way. I suspect the solution is going to be to go buy a can of CRC freeze-off and try to see if I can get proper thread penetration that way. Doesn't sound great to use a can of refrigerant just to break one bolt loose but the block is a big thermal mass and I really don't want to risk damaging the engine block. I've used a torch on oil pans before but only ones that come out easily.

I can get a blowtorch in there, it just makes me nervous to take a torch to the block. Isn't it painted? I need to also wash the entire side of the engine, there's clearly remnants of a valve cover leak all over the side of the block. The pipe part makes me nervous because slapping the end of the spanner with a dead blow hammer full force was enough to make the edges of the fitting's hex start to distort a little. A 12 point impact socket actually visibly rounded the edges. There's still plenty of meat left after I cut off the smaller pipe with a cutoff wheel but those two incidents are a clear sign to me to re-assess before I really create a disaster.

I decided to try removing the fitting on the back of the block that goes to the heater core. Any advice for how to remove this without creating more problems? I have tried a 27mm crescent wrench and hitting it with a dead blow hammer even with quite a bit of force is just threatening to round off the bolt instead of actually moving it. I have an impact driver which is the wrong tool but works surprisingly well for most smaller bolts like 10 or 14mm, no dice with something this big. Should I try dry ice or something like that? Picture for what I'm talking about: