joshuaho96

Are they pinned at the minimum level or are you saying they read atmospheric? If it's the first then I would trace the power and ground. If it's the latter make sure the vacuum line is hooked up properly.

I found this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/ecu-mounting-plate-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34 https://www.iee.nz/product-page/haltech-elite-2500-ecu-mount-r33-gtr

I agree it's old science, I agree it can make a ton of power. It's more just that I really need to keep the car reliable and after pulling pretty much everything off the intake side of the engine I'm not sure I want to deal with even more stuff crammed in there. I feel like I can barely even do basic mechanical work on this thing so I don't really want to start going nuts when I could get at least substantial thermal efficiency gains just by going to E85. Side entry plenums tend to deliver more liquid to the center cylinders, front entry plenums tend to favor the back cylinders. Methanol helps a lot with getting the mixture to evaporate more readily but I really do think if you plan on injecting more than just a token amount to drop IATs for in-cylinder effects you probably need to do individual injectors.

I know there are flow sensors that you're supposed to use, Aquamist has nozzles that are PWM instead of the old style pump duty cycle, Bosch's solution to water freezing is to pump all water back into the trunk after you turn the key off to empty the lines, Aquamist tells you to add methanol to keep it from freezing/keeping stuff from growing. General point is to get it to truly OEM levels of integration like what you get in an M4 GTS is just such a huge headache. As I said, even the Bosch system in the M4 GTS has a known issue with valve block corrosion, lots of people reporting the filter clogging easily, etc. I still think about doing it sometimes because it hurts my soul to think about how perfectly good fuel is being injected purely for cooling purposes instead of actually burning properly, but it really is not a nice straightforward thing to do. I would want to put the injectors on the bottom of the Nismo plenum because that's where the bosses are for secondary injection. But that would mean even more crap that has to fit under there, a set of injectors and the valve block and the water lines. Putting the injectors on top with a bracket for the valve block could also work, but that's going to be competing with the ITB linkages for clearance. I was just referencing a specific journal paper where they were injecting a pretty crazy amount of water in an attempt to achieve ignition timing on par with say 100 RON with 91 RON fuel + water injection. It's likely that they were completely overdoing it, especially because they found that water injection timing coinciding with IVO was a source of problems. They just show up, warm up the engine, then beat on the engine for hours and hours for months to collect all their data. My goal would be to completely eliminate boost enrichment with water injection, so to me per-cylinder control of water injection is a big deal. I actually found the paper, turns out it was the Nostrum Energy people supporting some university research, but I don't think they were alone in their findings: nostrum_sae_water_injection.pdf I think this is probably where I'm headed, just because it's so much easier to run a brushless pump, run higher flow injectors, add a flex fuel sensor to the fuel filter outlet and the rest is entirely ECU.

The intake is not at all designed to have equal liquid distribution, so I would expect that pretty much all of the water that doesn't evaporate in time is going to end up in the rear few cylinders. So a post-intercooler nozzle would have to inject very little water to ensure it all evaporates before reaching the intake plenum. I had an interest in water injection at one point but the sheer complexity involved in doing it right is a huge headache. You need to control it effectively as a separate fuel injection system. The injectors need to be much higher pressure than port fuel injectors because you need to atomize it finely for good evaporation. Water is corrosive which means everything in the system has to be designed around that. Water also freezes which could damage the system if you leave the car outside and it falls below freezing overnight. Water can also grow things which is yet another problem to deal with that can clog injectors/lines/etc. To do it right you would have to run AFRs that are normally considered incredibly dangerous, like lambda 1 for the entire operating table at operating temperatures. Then instead of using enrichment to keep the engine from detonating to death you inject enough water to absorb the heat of compression and initial flamefront development. So if the water injection system fails for any reason then you destroy your engine, basically instantly. On top of this water displaces oil, so any liquid water hitting the valve stem will contribute to valve stem wear, any water hitting the cylinder walls will also wash down the walls and potentially contaminate the sump. One journal paper I read where they experimented with water injection they discovered bore scuffing and they also milkshaked the engine oil so it really pays to be cautious. Nostrum Energy was supposedly working on this on their R35 demo car, I don't know what ever came of it. I bet they ran into issues because despite talking it up I've yet to see them actually ship anything. The Bosch system in the M4 GTS is also known to be troublesome, frequent system failures there as well. Aquamist is basically the only game in town for something you can actually buy today.

The reality is that good powertrain calibration engineers can land well-paying jobs at the OEMs and not deal with customers or customer service, so the tuners that most people can access on the open market are usually not the greatest. The consumers of tuning usually have no idea how to check stuff like this either so unless the tune is bad enough to break engines (not uncommon) there's no real verification. I've basically accepted at this point I need to just DIY my tune. I don't like the idea of this but that's just how it goes. Maybe if I ever get my base map to a good state I'll post it up somewhere as open source.

No, when I did this I definitely recall some of the fill bolts being smaller. I need to go check again but I'm pretty sure some of the fill plugs are 10mm square because some Nissan engineer was giddy at the thought of making people buy more tools, pretty sure in your last thread the ones with the lower torque spec are smaller. Also as Sean Morris' blog mentions just give up now and prepare to drop the front driveshaft as a part of the process, don't make your life miserable trying to avoid it. I recommend using the right size socket because those things are usually very, very stuck on there. Hope you have an impact wrench or something similar so you don't round the plug or damage something.

Don’t think it would cause your code 21 but that is not a good sign. I would fix that before it causes more problems.

The ECU sees the entire circuit path. With a smart coil the path it's seeing is ECU output -> coilpack trigger -> coilpack ground common with ECU ground. I would recommend getting a spark plug lead extension so you can put a timing light on the car and seeing what things look like on each cylinder. That will at least tell you what you're dealing with. Also, make sure you're reading the code correctly and not accidentally flipping a code 12 into a code 21.

As per usual the answer is something unsatisfying which is that it seems to depend. I've taken full Consult logs via NDS while driving the car to work before and you can see that there are cases where you can see with the engine at operating coolant temperature the O2 sensor may slowly oscillate about 0.45V, but it may also drop to basically 0V or something like that which is also totally normal. Here's an example screenshot and one of my drive logs, if you have Nissan Datascan you can look at the full log and zoom in/out at various things. NDS is a great tool IMO, for one it let me know for sure that there's something subtly wrong with my engine idle because the AAC valve barely opens up if ever when the engine is idling with no load while warm. It is very subtly off on the tachometer, enough for me to question if there's really anything wrong sometimes. 2021391529.log

The ignition signal circuit error means something in the path between the ECU ignition output to the coilpack trigger is broken open. Start with checking the connectors at the coilpacks and work backwards from there until you find it.

I looked up the price of OEM coils and the prices are nuts if you can't find some special pricing. You can get R35 Hitachi coils from Rockauto in the US for like 60 USD each. As far as I can tell they don't really have a counterfeit part problem either.

You clearly underestimate my ability to wildly overthink things.

Isn't new Nissan 8mm fuel hose made of FPM inner liner and E85 safe these days? Most of the lines in the car were replaced as a part of a chassis refresh because they were all severely dry rotted and ready to burst, I'm just down to the last little bits. The line from the fuel filter to the plenum hard line was definitely an FPM/ECO line, so I probably cut something relatively new out of general incompetence. Curiously something I learned is the Series 3 R33 fuel hose clamps went from the screw-types of the earlier cars to a constant tension spring clamp, from the pictures I found it looks like it has two layers for extra fun/spring tension. I'm not really wedded to 100% factory for purity's sake, I'm just generally skeptical of aftermarket parts unless they have proven benefits.

I have to buy a big spool of 8mm fuel line anyways for the fuel filter line which is a Nissan generic line cut to length. I was just hoping to simplify my life by buying a pre-cut line because I have no idea what I'm doing and I don't want to risk something not fitting exactly right with slightly off OD causing the hose clamps to not be quite right or general clearance issues.

The RS/2530/4R/5R all looked pretty mediocre IMO, looks like they recently announced something that is no longer based on the MHI cores as well: https://www.hks-power.co.jp/product_db/turbo/db/29690 I've yet to figure out what could possibly replace the GTIII-SS for the weird corner of "basically stock but not ceramic turbine". Basically the same "design concept" as what HKS says for the GT4135 in that link. Nismo is busy rehashing R34 N1 turbos and calling it a new turbo, only Garrett makes bolt-on turbos and the designs are decades old at this point. Tomei has the T550B but nobody has tested them and talked about it on the internet and their old ARMS M7655 was just garbage.

I'm busy replacing all the rubber lines on the intake side of the engine and something I've been having a hard time figuring out is what's going on with the Nissan parts catalog for the fuel rail hoses. I was planning on doing everything all OEM but the short fuel lines under the intake plenum that go to the fuel pressure regulator and fuel rail are discontinued for the series 1/2 R33. Original part number is 16446-05U01, Amayama claims the replacement is 17555-3S806 but looking it up that just looks like generic 8mm fuel line that requires cutting to length. The series 3 R33 part number is still available, 16446-24U00. I can't find any photos of it but the price looks a lot more sane. Looking up the plenum the part number is the same for all R33, the same is true of the fuel hardline under the plenum, the damper, the fuel rail, intake manifold, and FPR. Is there any particular reason to not buy the series 3 fuel line instead? I did notice that the fuel line clamps are different part numbers, but I'm replacing every hose clamp I touch anyways.

Does this even clear the ballast for cars with the series 3 HIDs?

Guess I'm going to have to buy a bunch of thin nuts, from what I recall when I pulled the plenum off it barely cleared the clutch master cylinder. Someone else suggested pulling the clutch master cylinder to get enough clearance but that makes me nervous with the hard line coming off of it. Is it really just cylinder 5 and 6 that need the studs removed? I'm trying to picture it mentally and the only way I can imagine that working is if you cant it in somehow. Also, any idea on torque spec for those studs? Hand tight?

"Below is the index from the manual it is a copy and paste and not laid out as it should be but is the full index. Please note this is a full factory workshop manual not just the engine but a manual for the entire vehicle. Some idiot did copy our engine manual for this vehicle and sells it online and it is a shit scan and only covers the engine, since then we translated the rest of the Japanese manual which covers the entire vehicle. We get asked all the time if this is just the engine or the full manual. This is the full manual."

They mention that the engine manual is a crappy scan of their old translation uploaded to the internet. The 150 dollar manual is the complete workshop manual supposedly. I might spring for that down the road, it gets tiring to cross-reference against the R34 manual. The suspension components especially are different so I'm not sure what the torque specs would be there.

Anyone ever done this? Nismo says the plenum doesn't fit without dropping the engine first, I've heard from people that it can fit without doing this but it sounds like it might be a real challenge. Obviously this is a really expensive pointless mod for power but supposedly it helps a bit with turbo lag with the longer runners and better cylinder airflow distribution so cylinder 6 and the rear turbo is less likely to fail first. OEM plenum/collector came out pretty easily, the intake manifold was the really challenging part.

A guy I know near me recently rounded off his front diff plugs so definitely don't go nuts, especially with the fill plug. Spark plugs are about the only thing where I try to tighten to middle of torque spec instead of lower end of torque spec and I do it with the engine cold.

Transmission: Transfer case: Front and Rear differential: All taken from the R34 workshop manual, I'm pretty sure that the differentials and therefore the torque specs are the same. The R34 GTR transmission is different but they list a torque spec for the 30A transmission which is shared with the R33 GTR. Transfer case is a different part on the R34 GTR with a thinner chain. It would be nice to get the Japanese R33 workshop manual, the english manuals out there tend to not be as comprehensive and between DeepL/Google Translate you don't really need a fully translated manual these days.

You should probably verify that the gauge cluster is receiving the RPM signal instead of blindly guessing. Electrical circuits aren't magic even if it seems like it sometimes.