joshuaho96

Transmission: Transfer case: Front and Rear differential: All taken from the R34 workshop manual, I'm pretty sure that the differentials and therefore the torque specs are the same. The R34 GTR transmission is different but they list a torque spec for the 30A transmission which is shared with the R33 GTR. Transfer case is a different part on the R34 GTR with a thinner chain. It would be nice to get the Japanese R33 workshop manual, the english manuals out there tend to not be as comprehensive and between DeepL/Google Translate you don't really need a fully translated manual these days.

You should probably verify that the gauge cluster is receiving the RPM signal instead of blindly guessing. Electrical circuits aren't magic even if it seems like it sometimes.

http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/1127497/Z32-Knock-Control---Do-you-know-your-ABCs.html Light reading on how the Z32s did knock control. Even in the 90s knock control was pretty decent, at least for saving the engine. It isn't quite as sophisticated as what you'll see in OEM ECUs today but it's still more advanced than some standalone ECUs out there.

Yeah, I probably should've mentioned that I meant factory ECU with Nistune or comparable method to change the map. I don't really consider having R&R corners of the map as "engine protection". Actual knock control/knock maps does count as engine protection though. AFAIK the RB26 ECUs also have a table for TPS vs RPM which will automatically short-circuit the MAF-based load calculation and skip straight to max load as a protection measure.

For a street car I'm pretty sure the stock ECU is more advanced as far as engine protection goes

It's kind of like handicapping yourself with EV1 injectors only. Can they do the job? Yes. Are the improvements big enough that you'll actually miss having EV14s? Also yes. Why handicap yourself with a PowerFC? Life is too short to spend it constantly afraid that your tune will blow up your engine. I would rather have zero mechanical mods and just a Haltech Elite 2500 if it came down to it, but I plan on doing quite a lot of map development on my own.

You should probably verify your base ignition timing and do a compression test before you celebrate.

There is nothing cheap about building an RB either way. You either pay in having someone incompetent wreck your engine which I've heard many stories about or you can take the buy once cry once approach. HKS complete engines are extremely expensive for what you get though, you're going to pay probably 10-15k USD in HKS tax alone. I would start by asking yourself what you actually use the car for and to what degree. If you just want a 2.8L stroker for a responsive street/track hybrid car that is comparable to a stock car in maintenance requirements and general reliability that's a very different set of requirements compared to a 100% dedicated track car that will never spend substantial time below 4000 RPM and will get torn down after every season for inspection if not rebuild. If you're going for something that looks like the latter then you want something like the HKS "high response" 2.8L stroker kit. I'm sure there are a bunch of similar designs out there, don't just blindly drop 1.5M yen on a stroker kit because I name-dropped that one. If this is primarily a street car that may sometimes find itself on a track then there's no point in wasting money on pistons that are designed to take 700+ hp and 9000+ RPM but require high piston to wall clearance with all of the disadvantages that go with that. You need to be honest with yourself here before you get any deeper into this. Also, I wouldn't let just anybody do this engine build. There is a wide gap between letting the tuner that possibly just trashed your engine attempt to rebuild it and going to HKS/Nismo for a crate engine. Club DSport in the US can probably be trusted to build an RB and not screw things up. They won't be cheap, they may have massive lead times, but they have a reputation to uphold and you can read their published testing and experimentation on the RBs to get a sense of their worldview. They're probably still cheaper than a Nismo engine which is like 7.2M yen if you want a comparable 2.8L stroker. Even if you decide that all you need is something like an HKS 2.8 Step 0 with basically factory cams and factory head, there are still a ton of gotchas in rebuilding an engine.

When you snap the throttle closed the primary concern is hydrocarbon shoot-through on the catalyst, if you suddenly snap the throttle closed you will pull high vacuum which will cause port injected engines to flash a bunch of fuel on the intake walls into vapor and cause a rich spike that is hard to control for, even with x-tau transient control it's normal to have a bit of a rich spike. Even with GDI engines it still seems to be challenging to control fuel in transients so the easy fix is to just smooth out the decay with drive by wire. As for why an automatic from 20 years ago will have revs fall to near idle the instant you let off the accelerator vs a modern automatic or a manual transmission, the reason is that almost every older automatic I've driven unlocks the torque converter when you let off the gas and they don't lock the torque converter until you're at something like 64 kph anyways, it was mostly done to improve efficiency of the overdrive gear. Modern automatic transmissions in an effort to improve fuel efficiency will lock the torque converter as soon as 9 mph these days and depending upon what the ECU/TCU thinks you're doing will either keep the torque converter locked to keep the engine in DFCO to help slow down the car or it might unlock to reduce the amount of KE loss in coasting. Manual transmissions never had a torque converter so they don't have torque converter slip.

If you think it's bad on an RWD car try an AWD one. I'm barely at the point where I can undo the intake plenum bolts and try to slide it off.

If you want to run a Haltech there's no harness needed, you can just run the stock harness and sensors/actuators. I believe it is recommended somewhere here to swap the stock boost solenoid and go from a 2 port to a 3 port solenoid with vacuum lines to suit but I haven't gotten to that part yet.

I agree, I've done it before and it's not that bad but in the case of the RB26 the ITBs add extra "fun" that I really just can't be bothered to deal with. I just fundamentally disagree with using alpha-N as a load sensing strategy to compensate for where speed density doesn't work in ITBs.

This is just spec table comparisons but I personally value MAF support a lot, if only to not have to sit down and spend time dialing in a VE table. ProEFI doesn't support the dual MAF config on the RB26 and I don't think they really support anything other than the RB26 at the moment. The vast majority of tuners don't seem to use MAF tuning but I have weird obsessions which seems to end with me DIYing this stuff as far as I can tell.

That's retrofitting the RB25 NEO NVCS system to the RB26. I'm sure there are a number of people that have done this. Personally if you can swing it I would recommend getting HKS VCAM instead, then you have continuous VVT instead of a fixed 20 degree advance or 0 degree advance setting. Obviously tuning continuous VVT is more involved but there are papers out there that show what a good VVT map looks like.

Yeah, this is an RB26. Probably should've mentioned that part.

Does the Nismo plenum make more sense then for people that want to light a lot of money on fire for basically zero benefit? They claim the intake runner length is 73.8mm compared to 48.5mm for the OEM part. Plenum volume is 4.1L vs OEM 3.4L. Supposedly cylinder 5/6 have a different runner geometry as well to try and get it to have more even air/fuel distribution.

Get some logs off of Nissan Datascan: https://www.nisscan.com/NDSI/index.php If you post a log of the issue occurring it will give a pretty good hint as to what's happening.

Sounds like you have ignition misfire under boost. Start at the spark plugs and work backwards.

RBs aren't cheap to build these days, I'm taking it easy until I can get my haltech installed and get it set up/tuned.

I was afraid to get into boost with just a turbo swap on my R33 and that's running wastegate boost on HKS GTIII-SS turbos.

While this is true, a lot of tuners out there don't care and won't take on jobs in my area if you have decided you want the engine to be built a certain way. Easier to deal with people that just say "I want 500 whp" and write a check for 30k USD or whatever.

-5s are not a 350-400 whp kind of turbo. If that's the kind of power you want you should probably source smaller turbos than that. If that's the kind of power you want you can run stock rods and pistons. Stock bottom ends have made a more than that.

Really, the whole car makes no sense but I'm here anyways.

Whatever you do, do not get Tomei USA parts. I know a guy who thought Tomei Japan and Tomei USA are the same thing. His Tomei USA cams literally did not fit in the engine. A lot of people have reported defective out of the box Tomei USA head gaskets. Tomei Japan has issued a statement out there that says explicitly that they have no control over Tomei USA and cannot be held responsible for any failures that result from their parts. Supposedly the US part numbers are actually all coming from Real Speed Engineering. I don't know what the relationship between Tomei USA and RSE is but RSE is tainted by association IMO.

I have one but I've never been super into the whole custom keyboard thing, my tastes are probably too basic to bother with anything complicated. MX Browns are kind of scratchy but they're fine.