joshuaho96

Is it weird to want to extract more efficiency out of these engines? I have a VCAM sitting in the garage. At some point I'm hoping to do a flex fuel conversion as well to be able to push out the envelope of lambda and ignition timing. I'd love to try something crazy like water injection but it doesn't seem practical or reliable from what I've seen.

If street manners are a concern I would look into HKS VCAM as well. Has Kelford figured out how to make VCAM-compatible camshafts?

If you search it up it's a stock ceramic turbo part number.

My experience with the transmission is that synchros are very slow. I can literally count to 2 in my head for high RPM shifts. The other thing to keep in mind is that pretty much every transmission these days needs an oil with friction modifiers in it to help the synchros work correctly. This is a common issue the Miata people run into, they stick to Motorcraft manual transmission fluid because otherwise people get crunchy shifts and gear grinds on worn synchros. For a track car I would definitely rebuild with dogs. For a street car I'm not skilled enough and smoothness matters a lot so I'm sticking with synchros.

I cannot figure out what exactly it is from a distant photo, there are multiple possibilities. Figure out what is connected to what and eliminate from there. It can only be a few things, some are body related, others are ECU related.

If you can adjust dead time you shouldn't have to do a weird hack of "more injector" at low PW and "less injector" at high PW.

This would be less of a problem if the Q50/Q60 had a proper manual/performance variant. It's obvious that they could've done it but it was deleted for whatever reason. It wouldn't take much of a refresh to get the 2+2 or even performance sedan that people are looking for but knowing Nissan they probably won't bother.

https://conceptzperformance.com/blog/a-closer-look-at-the-vr30ddtts-turbochargers/ The lower power versions delete the turbo speed sensor so it's not strictly necessary per se but I bet they included it on the higher power variant to avoid scenarios like a boost leak causing the turbo to spin beyond design spec. Not sure how an electronic wastegate relates here, wouldn't closed loop boost be looking at current airflow vs target airflow?

I honestly can't tell if they just rebadged a slightly different part number for "R34 N1" turbos now that they ran out of existing stock. Poking around the internet I've seen that exact spec claimed for R34 N1 turbos, both the C106 compressor wheel and 0.6 compressor a/r. Supposedly AA403 was the -7/R1 spec, AA401/402 line up with this R3 turbo spec.

Isn't the whole point of any standalone ECU to be able to put in injector characterization data and just have everything work unlike a Nissan ECU where prior to Nistune FP you had change MAF + injector together to keep load scales roughly in the right place? Searching around online it looks pretty simple to change injector settings while keeping the rest of the map the same, just write down the old settings for injector flow/latency before you start changing things.

It's not a ZF 8 speed, the 9 speed ZF is also not very good either. It's a Mercedes 9G-Tronic.

DCT was never going to happen, it was pretty obvious from the start that this was going to be a fairly mild refresh of the 370Z. Even getting the 9G Mercedes transmission is pretty surprising IMO.

To add more comedically priced turbo kits to the mix, Nismo just announced a new R3 turbo kit to replace the R1 turbo kit: https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/nismo_parts/NEW_PARTS/index_2021.html Searching around this exact turbo has been available for a while though. No idea what's going on here and what this turbo really is.

The thing I'm hoping to collect data on some day is whether the HKS GT3-SS turbos are actually capable of doing this, secondary to that is whether it's even remotely in the same ballpark as a comparable power single for response:

Compression doesn't just disappear. One cylinder getting low relative to others is a really, really bad sign. If it has decreased then the most likely explanation is bad ECU settings or something else have damaged the engine. Also the absolute number for compression is heavily affected by things like battery health/state of charge, whether you actually WOT properly while cranking, etc. You don't just "get compression back", you have to fix whatever is leaking compression.

To me the interesting test would be something like EFR7064 single vs whatever flavor of the day bolt-on twin turbo with comparable power output, assuming you added whatever you needed to try and fix some of the more blatant issues like the really awful twin turbo merge pipe, etc. I have a feeling it would be the EFR7064 but how far off with the stock-ish twins be?

You can have scavenge pumps with a wet sump, there are a number of production cars that have a wet sump with a scavenge pump. As for where you put the scavenge pump I would imagine you would want to pump oil primarily, so it would end up being somewhere like the turbo drains or an engine block drain somehow. The "head drain" is really more breather than oil drain, although the distinction gets a bit wibbly wobbly in cases where oil is getting stuck in the head due to excess crankcase pressure.

It means check the mechanical timing of the cams relative to the crank. The belt and the engine itself will have alignment marks so you can verify this:

Log AFRs, get a timing light and test your base timing, pull the timing cover and look at whether all the timing marks line up. One of those things will probably tell you what's wrong with the car.

Input shaft bearing if the whining follows engine RPM and it's coming from the transmission.

Why bother with forging the motor? If you're going to cut power down to get acceptable response around town you're probably well within the limits of the stock internals. At that point you want to control your piston to wall clearance to be as tight as OEM to control blowby, etc. That's the part that nobody really mentions, if you can barely get your engine oil up to 80C most of the time a forged piston with the usual forged piston clearances is going to probably be knocking around like a hotdog down a hallway. As others have said I would probably focus more on choosing a twin scroll turbo and all that fun stuff instead of worrying about the engine internals. A modern small single with a good twin scroll exhaust manifold designed to be a near direct fit for OEM intake bits is probably the way to go IMO, I'm a big fan on constraining your design problem to the smallest reasonable space to reduce the amount of things that could go wrong.

You might be able to find those coils for cheaper by searching for Hitachi IGC0079, in the US RockAuto sells those coilpacks for 55 USD/73 AUD each. Not sure how to make sure you're getting a genuine coil though, there are counterfeits everywhere for these parts.

Also possible that the valve covers were not sealed properly, any leak there is a vacuum leak as the PCV system is post-MAF.

All of the ducting is really the important part in an oil cooler. Really sucks to hear about the issues with the brakes. I've been wondering what I should do for my brakes as well, not sure what to do there. I've stayed with stock until I can decide. I figure there will always be options in that regard.

The full japanese R34 service manual has these diagrams, you can also look at Nicoclub for US market Nissans, a 2003 350Z has the same Brembo brakes for the most part, I believe the difference is maybe thinner brake pads and a different rotor to rotor hat offset but don't take it as gospel: https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals