joshuaho96

Is there even an ECU that can play nicely with the 4AT in these Stageas? I don't mean like a Motec where in theory you could write all of the code to handle that stuff, actual support where there's a base map that is pretty much spot-on for the transmission, just need to change some calibration values to get things like shift mapping to suit, maybe some timing retard adjustments to get the shifts smoothed out as well.

I still don't understand the point of dividing the wastegate from the exhaust turbine. Does it actually matter? I get the distinct impression from modern designs that the answer is no.

I believe the way they get around point 3 is that they offer a "free entry" by mailing in a card to the business. Very simple and easy compared to buying a shirt which gives you "10 entries".

If you have a manual I would strongly consider just running a Haltech or comparable ECU that supports AFM, you should be able to develop a base map based off of the factory ECU tables from there.

If there isn't a ton of metal in the oil/filter you've won the lottery.

Everything is a compromise, personally I'm not enough driver to actually use a big power build effectively on the track anyways.

Right, but in order to get to 700 whp for example you need a turbo that can flow that kind of air. If you then turn the boost down to 1 bar for street use then you're only clipping the portion of the RPM range where the engine would be making more than 1 bar, if you never intend on exceeding say 450 whp you could run a smaller turbo in the same family to get better transient response. Instead of an EFR 8374 you could run a 7163 or maybe even a 6758.

where is this mythical promised land where you can actually use 800+ hp on the street safely?

Is it better to just run until it spins a bearing? I got the impression that rebuilds are more straightforward if you do it before catastrophic failure.

I'm amazed you haven't spun a bearing yet. Engines do not last long without oil pressure.

If we're just trying to find the highest horsepower per dollar car you could just do this and get within spitting distance of 1200 hp crank for 55k USD: https://www.lebanonfordperformance.com/2020-1000hp-mustang-for-54995/ Personally I think the RB26 GTR with -7s or comparable is enough power, but I have a weird obsession with things like good street manners and an engine that won't blow up if I don't use Motul 300V/Valvoline VR1 and change it every 2000 miles or whatever crazy maintenance regimen is involved in keeping a 600+ whp RB26 alive.

Cost to build goes up dramatically as power numbers increase. On top of that you have to pay for frequent rebuilds, nothing making 1200 hp does it for very long. If every rebuild requires you to either ship an entire car to another continent or drop the engine and ship that to another continent the costs are going to skyrocket. There's really no such thing as a cheap build with RBs. The costs are laughable compared to a Hellcat Redeye crate engine which is under 30k USD and starts you at 800 crank hp on pump gas, completely emissions compliant and FCA has already done all the ECU tuning + setup for you. Run E85 and you're probably going to get to 900 whp no problem, no other changes needed. It won't be laggy either, the displacement helps tremendously with driveability. IMO the instant you start setting non-trivial power goals for an RB a lot of soul searching is needed to justify it. The cost is insane, the compromises are big, and you're setting yourself up for a car that will live in a trailer towed from one drag event to another.

AFAIK DeepL is a lot better these days, worth a shot for those that don't know.

In theory it's possible, I kind of doubt it with a stock engine though: http://midoriseibi.co.jp/blog/5395

If your transmission lives a pretty easy life and isn't subject to heavy shock loads then protection at operating temperatures is not as big a concern as behavior when cold, personally I plan on trying Motorcraft's GL-4 as it supposedly has had pretty good results at taming some rather grind-prone Miata transmissions.

Trust Kikaku is pretty aggressive with their pricing, in their videos they regularly say that they have to make it "worth their time", usually they stockpile parts and wait for Nissan to officially announce big price increases and then sell at the new price.

There's a few people that have gone through the G&K process that made it through the same way they do the R32 GT-Rs. I plan on just disconnecting the wastegate solenoid until I can actually get the car on a dyno, if the actuator spring is stronger than OEM it'll probably overboost past the load limits of the OEM tables.

CA compliance is still some ways off, car is landed and registration has started though. I need to get the car PPF'd and VIN verified before I send it off to emissions compliance. I think one of the injector seals has failed, there's a bit of a fuel smell. Once I get the oil changed I can at least verify if it's a fuel leak or an oil leak, I can tell that this car has had a fair amount of fuel contamination in the oil likely due to the sheer number of cold starts.

Yeah, I ordered the aliexpress china specials. I figure for potentially 240+ USD saved it's worth a shot.

If it's PEA it's fine.

Passive TJI working properly is a pretty big deal on its own. We’ll have to see what Mahle achieves on their internal test engines but the claims are really not negligible. I’ve seen journal papers claiming 80% reduction in the standard deviation of IMEP, 10% improvement in BSFC, 50-60% increase in peak cylinder pressure at roughly similar IMEP so CA50 is greatly reduced.

This is pretty much what American car manufacturers said about foreign competition until Toyota/Honda/Nissan nearly put them out of business, just for different metrics.

I don't doubt it, but shouldn't we look at what people are doing everywhere and take the best of everything? NIH syndrome is a dangerous thing IMO. I don't think a spark plug in a chamber with some holes drilled is fundamentally changing what an RB26 is and isn't. Neither is VCAM. There is a ship of Theseus thing going on here but I would say unless you do something radical like GDI retrofit which requires new head castings/CNC heads and a bunch of other crazy stuff it's still an RB engine at the end of the day.

Presumably the goal is to have a plenum that can be used in an RB26 that has these benefits, as opposed to an Audi plenum that won't fit? I have no allegiance here, if Hypertune came out with an ITB plenum that replicates the same benefits and is direct fit for all the factory plumbings I'd take it, even without the weird dual injector thing.

I meant for the RB26 in particular. Technically if we want to pick nits TJI is nothing new either, it's basically CVCC.