joshuaho96

Just the unfortunate reality of making a turbo engine with truly modern power delivery. The W2A charge cooler adds a second coolant loop and makes things very messy in the vicinity of the intake manifold. A2A eliminates the extra plumbing and issues with coolant leaking into the engine but now you have a bunch of additional volume after the compressor that has to be pressurized to build boost.

Modern engines tend to have reduced need for oil filtration because the OEM spec air filters tend to let less dirt and sand into the engine, less of it makes its way into the oil filter. Better understanding of how to keep engines from wearing prematurely from a materials perspective and a design perspective also means less wear particles on average. Also a full flow filter like that is never going to filter out soot in the oil. Of course if you plan to run your engine like a long haul diesel with 10+L of oil in the sump with very long oil change intervals then you should get a bypass filter. For a normal gasoline engine with a 5 quart sump and 8000-12000 km oil change intervals it's more work than it's worth. The long haul diesel crowd uses those systems because they're stretching OCIs as far as 40,000 km or even higher because any time spent changing oil means you aren't making money and those engines have like 38L or more oil per oil change.

AFAIK there's not much ability to get higher brightness out of an HID bulb like halogens, the luminous efficiency is already pretty high and 4300k white point maximizes the light output. Philips 85122 would be good for a D2S application for example. You might be able to run higher output by running a more powerful ballast but many ballasts are rated at input power, not output power. You have to figure out for yourself if the output power/luminance is actually any better.

I would caution against blindly doing LED replacements, if someone has actually bothered to get the photometric data and verified it's an improvement vs original spec lights then it's ok but the vast majority of drop-in LEDs for halogen housings will cause problems because the filament of the halogen has a different light pattern than the LED replacement. The optics of a headlight are pretty carefully calibrated against the light source it is intended to use. There are some LED headlight replacements that are application-specific and may actually work as intended with better brightness than the original, but the vast majority out there are going to be worse and cause visibility issues. If you have an HID headlight assembly a proper LED retrofit will likely require replacing the projector with an LED equivalent and some harness work to delete the HID ballast. If you want to have the best possible brightness in a D2S socket run 4300k bulbs and make sure your lenses are not hazed or yellowing. Some projectors are also known to be damaged over time, if the metal projector bowl is damaged then you'll have worse light output as well. Getting your headlights properly aimed also makes a big difference, long distance visibility on low beam is most important in the level and 0.4 degree below level test points. Anything below that is not actually that useful and is mostly foreground illumination, too much of which can impact your night vision and increase glare in rainy conditions.

https://billet.net.au/fuel-rail-kits/bpp-bosch-gtr-ev14-1000cc-fuel-injector-adaptor/ Would it just be this then? I have to remove the injectors and get them sent out for cleaning + characterization prior to actually getting new injectors, if the insulators seem to be important I'll see if I can bother someone to maybe get a revised version that allows for the insulator to fit.

I'm interested in maybe trying to get a set of B 280 436 469-01 Bosch Motorsport injectors, these are 1000 cc EV14 injectors with a dual cone spray to reduce wall wetting in DOHC 4V heads, but I'm not sure how they would fit in an RB26 fuel rail/intake manifold. Does anyone make adapters for EV14 standard length injectors?

The only real criticism I can think of regarding Nistune is that the ECU inherently expects proper matching between the fuel injector and AFM. If your fuel injectors are massive relative to what your AFM will provide then you will run into problems. You are also limited to the stock CAS signal format for signaling so crank triggers aren't going to work unless someone releases a 180 tooth crank trigger with digital trigger output. It's just a very different way of thinking that most tuners are not used to, everyone in the aftermarket tuning ECUs is used to speed density and alpha-N tuning. Anything that doesn't fit in that box is going to get dumped on to some extent as a result. The ECU is also really only made to do what it does stock in terms of I/O and not much else, although the Feature Pack stuff does add more neat goodies.

The confusion over why diesel trucks are seemingly conflated with "race car exemptions" is one of those things where it really only makes sense if you've followed how "race car exemptions" have been abused in the US. Literally every single tuning part in the US is sold as "off-road/racecar use only", to the point of worthlessness. The EPA is just calling BS on this when the vast majority of parts like DPF + SCR + EGR deletes are sold to vehicles that are only ever driven on public roads and nothing else. If DPF/SCR/EGR/TWC deletes were truly only sold and used in race/track-only cars I doubt the EPA would have even bothered revisiting this issue after 2015, but they weren't and they're using the nuclear option as a result. What's actually happening is that entire businesses are running these emission deletes on their diesel trucks to avoid having to spend money on maintaining their engines properly. Harley Davidson was nailed for this as well, they would sell motorcycles to people as "emissions compliant", then after sale dealers would just put the real tune on it and wouldn't even pretend that the thing was for off-road use by requiring the motorcycle to be trailered off the premises, people would just drive off with street plates already on the thing. The actual laws haven't changed, the EPA is just changing their interpretation of it and that's going through court battles now. We'll see if it goes anywhere this time, last time they backed down.

Why do you need ignition cut rev limiting? Fuel cut is much safer for the engine.

I agree it looks lean, but it doesn't really explain anything. I would try and log the behavior with Nissan Datascan, if you see stuff like MAF randomly dropping out at relatively constant throttle position then that could be the reason why. If MAF looks signal looks halfway decent but you see O2 voltage dropping to 0.2V or less for extended periods of time when the engine is not in DFCO then could be an ignition misfire, but if this is inconsistent I would be more suspect of the fuel system. Could be that the fuel pump isn't flowing enough until the FPCM kicks the fuel pump to full voltage. The O2 sensor starts reading well before the engine hits 80C coolant temp so you should be able to catch the behavior. NDS also has a function where you can disable individual cylinders, if you can reliably reproduce the problem you could get a friend to disable each cylinder in turn when the issue occurs to try and see if you can narrow it down to a specific cylinder, it should lose power/change engine note/rpm any time you disable one cylinder. To try and make sure that your coilpacks are not the issue I would pull the coilpack bracket + coilpacks out, vacuum the valley thoroughly/remove any debris, then wash the coilpacks thoroughly with soap and water, they're fully potted so this won't cause issues. Dry the coilpacks thoroughly, then apply dielectric grease at the top of the boot near the spring and around where the spark plug ceramic insulator is, then put everything back together. Also make sure that the spark plugs you bought are not counterfeit or otherwise off in some way, I've had suspect spark plugs before and they made the car run ok for the most part but during idle I would feel the idle suddenly dip and the engine would have to open the idle air control valve up to catch the stumble before the engine stalled. There's a guide out there on verifying the coilpacks more thoroughly but it's a real pain in the neck and involves pulling the CAS out, disabling all injectors, and removing all plugs + coil bracket and putting the spark plugs up in the air to while turning the CAS to see if the spark jumps through a stray path when nominally in a scenario where the spark plug electrode (ground) is not connected and therefore no spark should occur. Kind of dangerous to try though, make sure to discharge the plugs with some kind of insulated wire to the engine head to not shock yourself with like 10+ kV, the current is pretty trivial but it doesn't take much to cause problems with your heart rhythm.

Best bet is to sell it and get a V37 350GT FOUR variant. If you can deal with LHD you could get a G37x which is the 370GT equivalent but with the ATTESA system. There are a ton of parts different in an AWD car.

I thought the boost solenoid is needed, as well as removing the boost restrictor to get to 1 bar of boost. I have a hard time reading the vacuum line diagram but isn't this just a normal 2 port boost setup where disconnecting the boost solenoid gives you wastegate spring pressure? I thought you need to have everything connected and functioning with the boost restrictor removed to see 1 bar of boost.

I would imagine it's identical, especially for the reflector lights.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/gtrusa/permalink/514218625447824 The Australian R32 GT-R service manual is out there.

Isn't the OEM boost spec somewhere around 0.85 kg/cm^2? That's with a constant wastegate solenoid duty cycle so there's no way it's that high.

http://mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/index.htmlbkbk I also recall reading a report in which poor air filtration caused damage to hot film MAF sensors like those used by the R35 will cause the surface of the film to become pitted and damaged. It's also generally well accepted that the silt taken in by the engine will also get into the oil as elevated silica content. I don't recommend anything other than dry paper filters as a result. The stock airbox is really not as bad as people claim it to be, people insist on changing what isn't broken though.

As others have said replace the HKS trash pods before the foam disintegrates and gets sucked into the turbos, they suck at filtering too which can cause engine wear over time, you'll see more silica content in the oil as a result. That has nothing to do with the coolant temperatures though. If you're driving -3C conditions then it's hard to say, especially if you're running a low temp thermostat and the heater. 5-7C you shouldn't see the engine dropping below thermostat crack temp in normal operating conditions.

While true that the coolant temperature gauge is "dumb" and won't show proper coolant temperatures, if you actually notice it dipping more than parallax error would allow then it's very likely that there is a problem. Get a Consult cable and Nissan Datascan and run some logs to see what the coolant temps actually are in those cases. If it's dropping below 80C first step is to replace the thermostat. I would probably want to be sure of the issue before actually replacing the thermostat, from what I can tell it's a real pain in the neck to replace.

https://www.protecfuelpumps.com/product/11922-brushless-cobra-compact-with-516-sae-j2044-outlet-kit/ Anyone know anything about these pumps? Dimensions look to be only slightly larger than the DW300, seems like a decent candidate for a lower power build while keeping amps low.

As a general rule it's usually almost always cheaper to just rebuild what you have or source a new OEM part. Rare exception is some GTR parts where an ignitor alone is 600 USD and Nissan Japan wants like 140 USD for a coilpack.

Has Haltech considered keeping a stable channel for ESP + Elite firmware and beta for people willing to run the risk of issues like this?

Try running some data logs via Nissan Datascan, at least you want to figure out why it's going into limp mode.

Check the ECU for leaking capacitors, with a car this old it's worth a shot.

Is there even an ECU that can play nicely with the 4AT in these Stageas? I don't mean like a Motec where in theory you could write all of the code to handle that stuff, actual support where there's a base map that is pretty much spot-on for the transmission, just need to change some calibration values to get things like shift mapping to suit, maybe some timing retard adjustments to get the shifts smoothed out as well.

I still don't understand the point of dividing the wastegate from the exhaust turbine. Does it actually matter? I get the distinct impression from modern designs that the answer is no.