joshuaho96

If that's the case then my advice is to run tires that are not particularly grippy to avoid pushing the limits. Ventus RS4s are supposedly good for this, a durable track tire that has relatively low grip. Moving the breather position forward a little may not matter much, but if it does make enough of a difference you may need to drain the catch can back to sump. On a track car this isn't a big deal, oil temps are high enough that water/fuel won't accumulate. I would also add a line just before the turbo after the catch can to try and ensure that crankcase pressure is at least atmospheric. You have to make sure that the air coming out of the catch can is as clean as you can get it though.

Isn't the point of the breather being all the way at the end of the baffling/mesh path to try and keep as much oil out of the lines as possible? If this is a track build first and foremost just go dry sump and none of this matters. Cap off the breathers and let the scavenge pumps deal with it. It will keep you from ventilating the block.

If OP really wants a collector's R33 he should buy one of the Autech R33s listed here: http://www.garage-yoshida.net/car/

It appears to be missing the factory A-LSD. Factory build plate does say that it is a VSpec though: http://gtr-registry.com/en-bcnr33-vin-table.php This is a car build 06/1995 Series 1 VSpec with: (1G) 2 Door Coupe; (2GJ + 11Z) RB26DETT; (4P) 4WD HICAS; (7F) 5 Speed Manual; (14G) Super Fine Hard Coat; (15J) Rear Wiper Someone retrofitted the series 3 front lip to it as well, seems OEM based on the finish. Series 2/3 steering wheel as well. I have a feeling the airbag doesn't work because the dashboard/center console area was changed to fit the ABS computer in the series 2/3 whereas the series 1 had it in the steering wheel which is why it's so massive. A-LSD light is missing which is super fishy. Suggests the gauge cluster has been swapped and mileage is not accurate. Possibly done during the LSD swap but something to keep in mind. Interior appears in good condition but you need to check under that dashboard cover to know for sure. Driver side door cards have some damage. The interior also has a series 3 antenna switch instead of a blank plate as expected for series 1. Car has a compliance plate from when it was imported to Australia. It is a little infuriating how dim the Duncan Imports interior photos are, it feels like they're trying to hide something. My eval is based on this car: https://www.duncanimports.com/vehicles/1156/1995-nissan-skyline-gt-r I looked at the other one they have and I can't believe these two cars are priced the same: https://www.duncanimports.com/vehicles/1183/1995-nissan-skyline-gt-r The condition is clearly different. This one seems to have evidence of rust in the trunk. The entire bottom half of the driver side seat has water damage. It looks like someone has sanded off the finish on the center stack around the radio/hvac/triple sub meter.

Yeah if you live in the desert it'll be fine. What I've noticed is that cars stored outdoors tend to get water in unexpected ways as ambient temps drop below dew point at night causing water to accumulate on the chassis. Also stuff like poorly adjusted sprinklers spraying on cars is a thing as well. The dew can be especially bad in seaside areas because it can be salty. I suspect the reason why pretty much every R33 has strut tower rust is because Japan is humid and the concept of an enclosed garage doesn't exist in the vast majority of Japanese homes outside of homes for the very rich.

http://blog.garage-yoshida.net/archives/12205 This blog post is pretty good for discussing what issues exist in the R34 chassis as far as rust goes. Strut tower rust is inevitable on the R33 and R34 chassis if it's still factory, the questions is just how quickly the rust will progress. If you have a flawless example and you monitor the integrity of the sealant between the seams you can prevent rust entirely by resealing the strut tower panel overlap area but if you don't pay close attention it will start rusting. One tell-tale sign is when the flat spot-welded portion on the top next to the strut brace area starts to bulge like this: If the panel hasn't lifted from the sealant like that it's still ok. If you repair the struts in this state the panels can still be saved, but they will probably be pitted pretty good when you cut it back. The other two common rust spots on the R33/R34 chassis are under the plastic cowl and the drain just forward of the doors: These parts tend to be hidden, if rust is bad on the visible parts the cowl area could have holes in it.

If you already returned the rotors it's fine, I'm located in CA though.

Yeah, dba 4601 seems to fit from what people say but it's not actually exactly correct. If you need to unload your 300mm rear rotors I can buy them off of you, my R33 needs new rotors I believe.

Weird how Nissan decided to basically match the brake rotor sizes towards the end, I've heard that there was no modification to the rest of the car either so presumably that impacted brake bias?

Bright dash lights are a bad idea for night driving if you care about being able to see at night. I've heard arguments that it helps to keep drivers from dozing off but if you're so close to falling asleep that a bit of blue light makes the difference you shouldn't be driving.

Are you trying to have fun or win? Best Evo 9 time attack I've seen: Best BNR32: I think it's probably indisputable that the BNR32 has less potential as a platform. You will have to do a lot to the chassis, it's floppy, poor aero out of the box, the stock suspension geometry isn't very good, the engine has really poor oil control, needs a ton of cooling compared to other engines, etc....

https://www.gtrusablog.com/2020/03/itb-vs-single-throttle-individual.html https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=673598

The turbo business itself is fine, the problem is actually with all the random cruft that Honeywell tacked onto Garrett to spin off the transportation systems division. Stuff like Bendix brake components because they used to have asbestos in the brake pads.

https://nissan.epc-data.com/

GM automatics are pretty horrendous in performance cars, they basically ruin the car so I don't know why you'd want one in something sporty. Corvettes are good to drive, but until the C7 the quality of stuff like interiors has always been somewhere between mediocre and horrendous. When a 350Z has better interior quality than a C5 Z06 things are bad. The C6 was similarly bad. Seats shouldn't rock back and forth on acceleration/braking. Every reviewer here for decades has had to grade GM cars on a curve, "good for GM". The C8 is the first car that doesn't have to be reviewed in the context of "good for GM". That's why people are not really hyping these cars up as the end all be all. The audience for a 300k USD R34 GT-R has more in common with the air cooled 911 crowd than the average Corvette buyer.

Yeah, that's fair. But the C8 is ultimately a very different kind of car, DCT-only. I think that's pretty apples and oranges.

I know this is hard to believe, but even a dirty old Datsun has better interior than a Corvette: https://youtu.be/kuPxSvKGcGY?t=92

If you have an oscilloscope you can see the serial signal.

Actual source here. Grade 4.5B, Nur Sport engine installed by Omori Factory, oil filter relocation, TE37s, aftermarket exhaust, pods, aluminum cooling panel, aftermarket double DIN head unit. So definitely modified, but not to Clubman Racer levels of modified.

VR TT is pretty normal for cars these days. Nissan should probably consider relocating battery to rear as well to get a bit more room. The 86 competitor is never coming, the 510 concept was it. They could probably do a "Silvia" by doing a sort of Z 2+2 with a 2L turbo I4.

The new Z car would be a good compromise for commuting and maybe some track work. I wouldn't get it as a weekend car like an R33 GTR.

Nissan already has the 6 speed, VR30DDTT, FM platform. Personally I think they would be nuts to ask more than 70k AUD. They can afford to undercut the Supra in price a little.

The concern that these cars might go overseas is overblown, IMO. Japan has been re-importing 510s and S30s from the US for a while now as many of the clean chassis' still left are in desert states like Arizona. At the end of the day the vast majority of the stock is in the hands of private ownership in Japan. It's up to those owners whether they want to keep the car or sell it. Selling it necessarily implies that the car could go overseas, that's just the reality of seeking profit. If owners in Japan don't want to see the car exported they shouldn't sell their cars. Can't have your cake and eat it too.

Why not just get the rear F50 brembos?

I think it looks good and Hiroshi Tamura so far has not been the type to say misleading things like Tetsuya Tada to try and sell cars. So when he says the car will be more focused on feel and balance I'm more inclined to believe him. As for the actual design I do think it could use some cleaning up. The grille really does seem unfinished, I have a feeling they will do some refinements before launch. This looks fairly production-ready though, the car still looks like an FM platform car and will probably weigh like 1500 kg.