joshuaho96

Nissan already has the 6 speed, VR30DDTT, FM platform. Personally I think they would be nuts to ask more than 70k AUD. They can afford to undercut the Supra in price a little.

The concern that these cars might go overseas is overblown, IMO. Japan has been re-importing 510s and S30s from the US for a while now as many of the clean chassis' still left are in desert states like Arizona. At the end of the day the vast majority of the stock is in the hands of private ownership in Japan. It's up to those owners whether they want to keep the car or sell it. Selling it necessarily implies that the car could go overseas, that's just the reality of seeking profit. If owners in Japan don't want to see the car exported they shouldn't sell their cars. Can't have your cake and eat it too.

Why not just get the rear F50 brembos?

I think it looks good and Hiroshi Tamura so far has not been the type to say misleading things like Tetsuya Tada to try and sell cars. So when he says the car will be more focused on feel and balance I'm more inclined to believe him. As for the actual design I do think it could use some cleaning up. The grille really does seem unfinished, I have a feeling they will do some refinements before launch. This looks fairly production-ready though, the car still looks like an FM platform car and will probably weigh like 1500 kg.

Immobilizers are usually directly connected to a fuel pump and starter relay. So the answer is probably not.

https://www.nismo.co.jp/news_list/2020/news_flash/20005.html?fbclid=IwAR3k1Sy_8DKg2js4hHIPAKk7ZQjp6rYrNgh04PYJgoc6T2WhK06iD2X9FRU Spring rate is definitely different from Ohlins R&T spec, which is 9/8 kgf/mm. All the damper rates are different too which suggests they've changed the valving.

There is a difference between the Nismo variant DFVs and the Ohlins R&T spec. Whether it matters is up to you.

I still think that if someone actually went through the effort to get a modern control system and not whatever half-assed solution Nissan shoved out the door the A-LSD would be a clear step up. Many modern cars still use electro-hydraulic A-LSDs, stuff like the F430, 458, 991 GT3 PDK variants, etc. The sensors are basically all there already, it's just not being used properly.

It's a little late to not overcapitalize on a 30 year old shitbox, I'm in way too deep at this point. My car already has an A-LSD anyways so rebuild is probably cheaper than doing a full mechanical diff conversion.

Edits seem to disable themselves after some time, I found an interesting thesis paper on the subject of A-LSD and TVD control, could be interesting: https://repository.lboro.ac.uk/articles/Vehicle_handling_control_using_active_differentials/9219482

Turns out they do actually have a presence on alibaba, but it's basically entirely generic. MOQ for their lights is 300 sets.

It’s definitely possible to retrofit modern ABS controllers to these old cars, so why not try and improve A-LSD and HICAS control? Bosch Motorsport sells an M5 ABS kit that can do some incredibly trick stuff, people have retrofitted these systems into stuff like SW20 MR2s. HICAS might be difficult but not impossible to improve upon. The A-LSD controller is also definitely possible to improve upon. Nismo did it for real in the Super Taikyu cars so they weren’t a glorified gimmick. The HICAS was disabled and the yaw sensor was wired to the ATTESA controller.

They don't list on Alibaba, probably because they're actually a company based in Taiwan: https://www.coplus.com.tw/home

Right, but the point is that it's possible to have a HICAS and A-LSD controller that does a lot better, much like the replacement ATTESA controllers out there. The electric HICAS systems, properly refreshed, are probably not that far off from a modern 4WS system in the actuator, just stone-age era design in the control logic. The A-LSD seems to be comparable in that regard, lots of modern cars have actively controlled LSDs as well.

My car is still being restored, it will be some time until it makes it to the US, then more time for registration.

Ceramic turbos suck admittedly if you want to run more than 1 bar boost but it seems to me that HICAS and the A-LSD are more suffering from relatively archaic control systems than actual problems with the actuators. I have a feeling if you could put in modern sensors and modern control algorithms these systems would not be as maligned as they are now.

What is wrong with the active LSD? My understanding is that it basically locks up on throttle and unlocks off throttle, that's all there is to it. What would be interesting is if someone actually added some form of feedback control to it.

I have heard in very exceptional cases some turbos need BPV/BOVs because the shaft holding the compressor wheel was undersized and couldn't take the loading from going in/out of surge and would snap it clean off. But that was a band-aid fix for a mistake in the design phase.

I'm pretty sure Nismo/N1/stock are all the same flow rate.

I wouldn't bother with using the OEM ECU but that's mostly because I want to be able to do things like install a crank trigger, possibly go E85, VCAM control, dynamic boost control based on knock count/flex fuel, etc. There's a lot of barriers to tuning with the OEM R33/R34 ECU too, there's no Nistune board available so you have to find one of the discontinued Techtom ECUs or something comparable to use for live tuning, then find a discontinued Hitachi H8/534 chip that is blank, burn it, then replace the chip on the ECU. Japanese tuners have all of this down but their tunes are all for higher quality gas than I can easily buy. So if you move to CA then you're going to have to retune unless you want to knock your engine to death. Mine's ECUs are pretty notorious for doing this. They depend on Japanese 100 RON. I'm pretty sure most tuners also pour epoxy over the chip once they're done to keep people from reverse-engineering their tune, but it also makes it very difficult to reuse the ECU. My car is still in Japan, I'll post my time to get through emissions compliance when it happens though. Should be able to get the car started on that process before the end of the year. It'll definitely be a while, but probably not 6 months. Probably.

As a general rule if you hurt a cylinder it will be cylinder 6 because it runs the hottest. Gets the most air, worst cooling.

Smog referee checks the ECU in many cases, I would get it to pass with OEM ECU + map. For initial emissions my plan is to use the stock boost control system to get it to 0.9 bar stable and call it a day. Maybe it means OEM boost restrictor, or a completely blocked boost restrictor to run wastegate pressure. Hard to say at this time. Remapping the OEM ECU is dangerous IMO, mostly because the emissions lab tests on CA certification fuel, not Japanese pump gas. It will very likely knock itself to death on CA 91 AKI, which is like Japanese 95-96 RON. You really don't want to deviate from stock if you can help it.

If you’re after better midrange definitely go for the smallest turbos, there’s no free lunch here. I personally don’t like the idea of using another controller for boost control. It seems popular in the Japanese tuner market but I really want OEM levels of integration so I want a single ECU running everything. A boost controller would also be a major red flag for smog tests. I did a lot of research into all the ECUs on the market and pretty much every stand-alone is speed density only. If you want MAF based load on a Motec you need to write your own firmware. I already write enough code at my day job, I don’t want to be doing more of it in my free time. Basically the only vendor that even tries to support stock ECU functionality is Haltech. I’ll see what I can do about getting a halfway decent ECU tune on an Elite 2500. That remains one of the big unknowns for me.

My choice for the GT3-SS was basically purely a gamble that it would do better in mid-range power than -7s or -9s for the relatively low boost I'm targeting (18-20 psi tops). The original HKS GT-SS are actually just Garrett -9s which HKS got some kind of exclusivity deal on for quite some time. I figure I'll just take the leap and post back results so others don't have to suffer through the general decision paralysis I did. The plan is OEM ECU + OEM map, the entire car is stock other than the turbos. The one big question for me right now is what will happen with OEM boost control hooked up to a turbo with a stronger wastegate spring. I'm pretty sure that the ECU is just dumb and uses a fixed duty cycle on the solenoid. It might go to wastegate pressure if knock is detected like the 300ZX TT but that's probably it. If the stock boost restrictor doesn't cause wild overboost (more than 1 bar) I'll leave it, otherwise I have to start figuring out what size restrictor to use to get it to not overboost. After registration I'm probably going to toss a Haltech at it to be able to adjust fueling/timing and to run a more intelligent boost control strategy.

Also forgot to mention but there is definitely a lot of skepticism around the new HKS turbos. Do your research, don't just go by the marketing literature.