joshuaho96

The R34 GT-R valuations, especially for the rare variants, have never been tethered to what the car actually is. Every time I look at the frame of an R34 Skyline it's very clear that it is basically the exact same thing as an R33 Skyline. What is actually remarkable is that you can see the progression of cost-cutting on the undercoating from R32 -> R33 -> R34 Skyline. The R34 has the least and has the same rust issues as the R33 but also the extra brackets on stuff like the carbon fiber diffuser is even worse for rustproofing and tend to be swiss cheese after 20 years. Effectively the main differences between the R33 and R34 are some bolt-on suspension arms/bushings, some chassis reinforcement pieces in places like the trunk floor, the divider between the rear seat and trunk, the base of the B pillar, etc. There's also the 6 speed Getrag, the slightly revised RB26 (different CAS, ball bearing ceramic turbos, smart coils, etc), and slightly improved HICAS logic. I doubt most people are really interested in keeping HICAS but if it matters enough it's probably possible to adapt the R34 HICAS controller over to an R33. I'm sure this sounds like sour grapes but it's more like bewilderment because there seems to be an obvious backdoor to have a car that drives like the R34 GT-R but for much less money.

You should try it for yourself, the difference in linearity and throttle response is noticeable. If you need 5 g/sec AAC bypass air to idle and you crack open the throttle, the difference is very noticeable compared to if you were to get it down to 1.5 g/sec. I've had subtle vacuum leaks happen before and the engine won't respond nearly as much to the throttle until it's fixed even though timing/fueling was all in a good state and the tune was speed density.

MBT is maximum brake torque timing. It's the value that maximizes engine efficiency for that operating point, assuming you don't get limited by knock first. A stock RB26 should idle warm around base timing with no accessories and nothing else going on. It will jump to more or less timing to control the idle. The more timing you can dial in at idle the less air you need, the less air you need the more control authority the throttle has. The AAC valve is basically a controlled vacuum leak. You want to reduce it as much as possible so that the engine responds more to your pedal. There are limits to this though because idle requires the ECU to constantly adjust timing/airflow/fuel to keep it stabilized. If you add too much base timing and pull out too much air the ECU won't be able to compensate for sudden drops in engine RPM and the likelihood of a stall rises.

Generally speaking setting base timing can be done at whatever reference you have for timing marks, although you may not want to use TDC as a reference, especially if you have a missing tooth for TDC, accuracy can be worse at TDC if that is the case. The reason why there’s adjustment present in the cam sensor is to prevent sensor triggers from overlapping. With no missing teeth if you have overlap with any of the crank teeth the ECU will lose sync. With a missing tooth you want to avoid overlap with the tooth after the missing tooth, that’s the reset for the ignition sync so it is important to not have the cam overlap. At idle you can and should crank the timing to at least 20 degrees. Don’t set timing to MBT. It’s a balance between adding more timing to make the engine more responsive getting off idle/improving idle fuel consumption and leaving enough timing margin that you can ensure the ECU can adjust idle faster than the AAC valve can respond.

Your catch can has two little breather filters on it, what you probably want to do is run those lines just after the air filter on the turbo but before the compressor inlet. Just make sure your catch can is actually filtering out all of the oil.

If that's the case then my advice is to run tires that are not particularly grippy to avoid pushing the limits. Ventus RS4s are supposedly good for this, a durable track tire that has relatively low grip. Moving the breather position forward a little may not matter much, but if it does make enough of a difference you may need to drain the catch can back to sump. On a track car this isn't a big deal, oil temps are high enough that water/fuel won't accumulate. I would also add a line just before the turbo after the catch can to try and ensure that crankcase pressure is at least atmospheric. You have to make sure that the air coming out of the catch can is as clean as you can get it though.

Isn't the point of the breather being all the way at the end of the baffling/mesh path to try and keep as much oil out of the lines as possible? If this is a track build first and foremost just go dry sump and none of this matters. Cap off the breathers and let the scavenge pumps deal with it. It will keep you from ventilating the block.

If OP really wants a collector's R33 he should buy one of the Autech R33s listed here: http://www.garage-yoshida.net/car/

It appears to be missing the factory A-LSD. Factory build plate does say that it is a VSpec though: http://gtr-registry.com/en-bcnr33-vin-table.php This is a car build 06/1995 Series 1 VSpec with: (1G) 2 Door Coupe; (2GJ + 11Z) RB26DETT; (4P) 4WD HICAS; (7F) 5 Speed Manual; (14G) Super Fine Hard Coat; (15J) Rear Wiper Someone retrofitted the series 3 front lip to it as well, seems OEM based on the finish. Series 2/3 steering wheel as well. I have a feeling the airbag doesn't work because the dashboard/center console area was changed to fit the ABS computer in the series 2/3 whereas the series 1 had it in the steering wheel which is why it's so massive. A-LSD light is missing which is super fishy. Suggests the gauge cluster has been swapped and mileage is not accurate. Possibly done during the LSD swap but something to keep in mind. Interior appears in good condition but you need to check under that dashboard cover to know for sure. Driver side door cards have some damage. The interior also has a series 3 antenna switch instead of a blank plate as expected for series 1. Car has a compliance plate from when it was imported to Australia. It is a little infuriating how dim the Duncan Imports interior photos are, it feels like they're trying to hide something. My eval is based on this car: https://www.duncanimports.com/vehicles/1156/1995-nissan-skyline-gt-r I looked at the other one they have and I can't believe these two cars are priced the same: https://www.duncanimports.com/vehicles/1183/1995-nissan-skyline-gt-r The condition is clearly different. This one seems to have evidence of rust in the trunk. The entire bottom half of the driver side seat has water damage. It looks like someone has sanded off the finish on the center stack around the radio/hvac/triple sub meter.

Yeah if you live in the desert it'll be fine. What I've noticed is that cars stored outdoors tend to get water in unexpected ways as ambient temps drop below dew point at night causing water to accumulate on the chassis. Also stuff like poorly adjusted sprinklers spraying on cars is a thing as well. The dew can be especially bad in seaside areas because it can be salty. I suspect the reason why pretty much every R33 has strut tower rust is because Japan is humid and the concept of an enclosed garage doesn't exist in the vast majority of Japanese homes outside of homes for the very rich.

http://blog.garage-yoshida.net/archives/12205 This blog post is pretty good for discussing what issues exist in the R34 chassis as far as rust goes. Strut tower rust is inevitable on the R33 and R34 chassis if it's still factory, the questions is just how quickly the rust will progress. If you have a flawless example and you monitor the integrity of the sealant between the seams you can prevent rust entirely by resealing the strut tower panel overlap area but if you don't pay close attention it will start rusting. One tell-tale sign is when the flat spot-welded portion on the top next to the strut brace area starts to bulge like this: If the panel hasn't lifted from the sealant like that it's still ok. If you repair the struts in this state the panels can still be saved, but they will probably be pitted pretty good when you cut it back. The other two common rust spots on the R33/R34 chassis are under the plastic cowl and the drain just forward of the doors: These parts tend to be hidden, if rust is bad on the visible parts the cowl area could have holes in it.

If you already returned the rotors it's fine, I'm located in CA though.

Yeah, dba 4601 seems to fit from what people say but it's not actually exactly correct. If you need to unload your 300mm rear rotors I can buy them off of you, my R33 needs new rotors I believe.

Weird how Nissan decided to basically match the brake rotor sizes towards the end, I've heard that there was no modification to the rest of the car either so presumably that impacted brake bias?

Bright dash lights are a bad idea for night driving if you care about being able to see at night. I've heard arguments that it helps to keep drivers from dozing off but if you're so close to falling asleep that a bit of blue light makes the difference you shouldn't be driving.

Are you trying to have fun or win? Best Evo 9 time attack I've seen: Best BNR32: I think it's probably indisputable that the BNR32 has less potential as a platform. You will have to do a lot to the chassis, it's floppy, poor aero out of the box, the stock suspension geometry isn't very good, the engine has really poor oil control, needs a ton of cooling compared to other engines, etc....

https://www.gtrusablog.com/2020/03/itb-vs-single-throttle-individual.html https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=673598

The turbo business itself is fine, the problem is actually with all the random cruft that Honeywell tacked onto Garrett to spin off the transportation systems division. Stuff like Bendix brake components because they used to have asbestos in the brake pads.

https://nissan.epc-data.com/

GM automatics are pretty horrendous in performance cars, they basically ruin the car so I don't know why you'd want one in something sporty. Corvettes are good to drive, but until the C7 the quality of stuff like interiors has always been somewhere between mediocre and horrendous. When a 350Z has better interior quality than a C5 Z06 things are bad. The C6 was similarly bad. Seats shouldn't rock back and forth on acceleration/braking. Every reviewer here for decades has had to grade GM cars on a curve, "good for GM". The C8 is the first car that doesn't have to be reviewed in the context of "good for GM". That's why people are not really hyping these cars up as the end all be all. The audience for a 300k USD R34 GT-R has more in common with the air cooled 911 crowd than the average Corvette buyer.

Yeah, that's fair. But the C8 is ultimately a very different kind of car, DCT-only. I think that's pretty apples and oranges.

I know this is hard to believe, but even a dirty old Datsun has better interior than a Corvette: https://youtu.be/kuPxSvKGcGY?t=92

If you have an oscilloscope you can see the serial signal.

Actual source here. Grade 4.5B, Nur Sport engine installed by Omori Factory, oil filter relocation, TE37s, aftermarket exhaust, pods, aluminum cooling panel, aftermarket double DIN head unit. So definitely modified, but not to Clubman Racer levels of modified.

VR TT is pretty normal for cars these days. Nissan should probably consider relocating battery to rear as well to get a bit more room. The 86 competitor is never coming, the 510 concept was it. They could probably do a "Silvia" by doing a sort of Z 2+2 with a 2L turbo I4.