joshuaho96

I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.

It is the entire transmission BUT you must swap in your old transfer case. There is no transfer case on the back of it. Comes with throwout bearing for the OEM pull clutch and Super Coppermix Twin pull clutch, new clutch fork, pivot, cotter pin, washer, and clutch fork boot as well. Keep in mind shipping is killer for such a giant piece of metal. I got mine from Trust Kikaku USA which shipped a container full of them to Long Beach and I had to pick it up from their warehouse.

32010-RHR30 is the Nismo Heritage transmission. I paid 1500 USD or so for mine.

Yep, replacing all those hoses is kind of just bog standard if you're ever back there. Only hose on the back of the engine I have yet to replace is a vacuum hose for the wastegate. I'll probably do it eventually but it's in such an annoying spot.

IMO just buy a whole R33 transmission and swap the whole thing. Use a palm nailer/air hammer with a roll pin punch to drive the shifter rod end roll pins out. The rod end is discontinued so don't break it. Use gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket instead of RTV. I personally would not pry on the shifter cover tabs, I broke one trying that instead of just smacking the side with a dead blow rubber mallet to shock it loose from the RTV the last mechanic applied. If you can't get the flanges totally clean and free of any residual RTV and/or you might have a gap that is bigger than it should due to flange damage use RTV on that surface instead of the OEM specced anaerobic sealer. Anaerobic sealer is most likely the right sealant for the job, it's just too easy to mess it up with too large a gap or bad surface prep/roughness seemingly. If you do rebuild what you have it's for a whole gearset that can take high torque. Don't bother with OEM at that point.

In the US the EPA has been going after shops that sold aftermarket ECU tuning software that allowed you to disable CELs for things like EGR, DPF, SCR, or TWC failure. They also went after shops for selling emissions delete equipment. Their logic is that all cars built for street use have this emissions equipment and you cannot do an after the fact conversion to an off-road vehicle not intended for street use. Cobb, Hondata, and similar companies have basically all revised their tuning software such that going forward you cannot suppress DTCs for emissions-critical systems, nor can you toggle systems on and off in the tune like EGR. You also cannot adjust OBD emissions monitoring logic. You can still tune these cars. But you have to do things the hard way, basically. For example Subaru FA20DITs used to delete the TGV system to get spare analog IO for a flex fuel sensor. EGR also has to be dramatically pared back because without the TGVs the stock EGR map causes bad misfires. Now instead they have to implement the flex fuel system as a CAN bus sensor instead. IMO, this is heavy-handed but the EPA in the US gave so much leeway for so long and the aftermarket relentlessly abused that leeway to the point that they could actually see the effects of all these emissions-deleted work trucks on their air quality monitoring for cities that haven't met Clean Air Act standards. It's one thing to have a few people deleting emissions on their weekend car that spends 9 months out of the year on jack stands. It's another thing entirely for entire fleets of tradies driving around 8 hours a day on deleted diesels that emit 1000x the emissions per mile of a compliant vehicle.

Yeah not a mystery here. Those AEM wideband controllers kill sensors incredibly quickly. They go full heat the moment they get power. If you don't put them on a switch to only turn on a few seconds after engine start the condensation cracks the sensor and you get results like what you described.

It is a very complicated plastic tank. Sitting between the rear seats and the rear subframe. Requires a siphon venturi pump in the hat to suck the fuel from the passenger side to the driver side of the tank. The answer is probably prepping the tank very carefully to eliminate all fuel fumes, drilling any cracks to stop propagation, then plastic weld. I don't really see any other solution here.

I've seen some stuff like this as well, not sure if it's a good idea or anything but it does have more standoff from the piping than the conventional fiberglass wrap:

It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.

We have an alignment shop out here that does what you're talking about but he wants like 800 AUD a pop. DIY is "cheaper" but once you start accounting for the value of your time I'm not sure it's worth it.

I will say most technicians aren't the best, then they see a Skyline and it seems like their brains start oozing out of their ears. But actual good techs that knew what they were doing to begin with I don't see them having any issues with this car. And it doesn't attract that much attention. But if you were wondering what it's like to be an attractive woman, driving an RHD Skyline in the US is pretty much as close as it gets in terms of endless male attention. Random people will strike up conversations with you at gas stations, at mechanics, etc. List goes on. When I do alignments for any car I never leave it overnight. I bring it in same day and usually just mill around outside the shop because I can't be bothered to call a taxi to go somewhere for 30 minutes only to get another taxi back.

Not required but appreciated. Super Coppermix Twin even the non-competition model feels like the pedal is noticeably heavier than stock which was pretty well judged IMO. I'll be swapping in the Nismo operating cylinder soon to see how that feels. Personally I haven't felt anything that justifies replacing the damping loop, at least compared to more modern stuff where the clutch delay valve is actually quite noticeable.

Start by replacing the bushing and shifter cup. Two plastic pieces in the OEM shift mechanism that can wear out and cause these problems. It's like 15 USD from Amayama before shipping. You can replace with aftermarket brass bushings but personally I was fine with OEM. The stock shifter working properly doesn't feel like there's any real problems with it.

Throws on the FS5R30A in most Nissans of this era are actually quite short and direct compared to any remotely modern BMW with the S6-53 transmission. Those things have throws a mile long with rubbery vague everything. Synchro issues combined with a short shifter is just going to break everything even faster.

75W90 GL5 is fine. If you aren't sure about the type get one with LSD additive.

I have seen enough fire and brimstone from TSBs about roloc disks causing spun bearings that foreign object contamination is top of mind for me. For sufficiently large particles you might be right but usually it’s a distribution of debris and some of the larger particles can also break down and shed bits. If local shops report RTV contamination in a turbo is enough to wreck them I’m taking zero chances if I can help it.

It is fine. The bigger issue is people not being careful with their oil between breaking the seal and actually using it. I have seen literal pebbles of asphalt fall out of "clean oil" bottles. Always take great pains to avoid dropping the plastic foil bits into the oil. Try to avoid putting anything dirty into a "clean bottle" like vinyl hoses, etc. I pour my oil into a syringe, then cap it, then inject into the diff/transmission/etc instead of sucking it up with the hose now. I never drain "clean oil" from an engine and try to reuse it. List goes on. Don't care how clean it looks, the moment it goes into an engine even if it looks brand new I am not going to risk foreign debris getting into something.

I've worked around a crunchy/grindy gearbox for so long now that track instructors note how I have absolutely awful shifting habits. S L O W shifts and then blipping the throttle even on upshifts out of habit. My vote is R33 series 3 gearbox, those are still readily available and relatively cheap.

How fast are you doing the downshift? 4th gear was revised multiple times until 1998 to fix this issue. Synchro clips can fall out, synchros can wear. Most likely you're looking at a new transmission unfortunately. If you need to limp it until then double clutch downshifts into 4th.

Change the transmission fluid. I would try Motorcraft XT-M5-QS if you have it in your area for a reasonable price. Also, double check your clutch is fully disengaging. If you are not pushing the clutch pedal to the floor fully for every shift now is the time to start. Make sure the clutch is fully bled. The damper line requires two distinct bleed points to be purged of air or it will not disengage the clutch properly. If either hydraulic cylinders input or output are losing hydraulic pressure in their seals/leaking you can have problems like this. If you've ruled out everything else then the most likely explanation is the synchros are worn and you need to double clutch the shift or rebuild/replace the transmission. The transfer case is discontinued FYI so you may want to rebuild it while you're in there too. If the chain stretches past spec it can do a ton of damage.

Theoretically maybe, but if you capped it tightly it's fine.

Constant tension spring clamps need to be replaced if bent past a certain point. Once they turn to a certain age it's also an automatic replacement in my book. They get rusty and lose their tension. Also once hoses get to a certain age if you don't set the clamp exactly in the groove when disconnecting/reconnecting the hose it will almost certainly leak. As mentioned before you should also cap off the idle-up valve to make sure it's not sucking fluid or leaking air into the system. It's generally speaking less demotivating to figure out which change fixed your problem vs failing over and over until you locate the problem precisely.

You can try capping the power steering idle up valve at both ends if it's old. The valve and the intake manifold. That is something that is known to fail in Toyotas with age and it will suck power steering fluid into the intake and burn it in the engine which can cause issues. Then bleed it again with engine off first. Do like 30+ lock to lock turns with the front wheels off the ground.

Do you have any hose clamps that are not OEM? You must use constant tension clamps in the system or when it gets cold it can be a "vacuum leak" on the intake side of the pump. The other thing to think about is whether there is excessive restriction on the inlet side of the pump. If it's pulling too much vacuum the cavitation on the pump will generate air bubbles as well and also burn the fluid.