joshuaho96

Actual correct answer, it’ll actually get halfway decent fuel mileage too if you fix the gearing.

Don't jack the pinch welds with a trolley jack under any circumstance if you can help it, even with these rubber pucks. The problem is that the arc of the trolley jack is such that it pulls on the pinch weld as you lift. A scissor jack goes straight up and down. It's only acceptable to use those points on a two post lift because the lift is making contact with all 4 points simultaneously and the load is very light. Nissan has made very nice provisions for trolley jacks that allow you to lift the front and rear of the car safely, use those points instead of trying to lift from the rockers.

The trouble is that the rust starts between the panels where it isn't easy to actually see it. I think this one is fine, especially if it's living in the desert. But it's going to take a lot of work to actually prevent the strut rust from advancing in a place like Canada. So many R33s from Canada have pretty severe rust issues right now.

If you have to have something that is "lower flow" the SARD Denso 850cc top feed high impedance injectors are nominally lower flow. But we're talking about 850cc vs 880-980cc depending on who you ask for the Bosch injectors.

I'll let someone else speak to jack stand placement, I only use the pinch weld because that's the factory position and I try very hard to not damage them. For the front you jack by the crossmember you circled in red. Jack the rear by the diff. Those are the OEM designed floor jack/trolley jack points. Anywhere else is not a good idea. For placing jack stands on the sills you need a rubber pad that avoids engaging the protrusion to avoid bending and splitting: Probably what happened is someone improperly jacked the car, wrecked the pinch welds, and now it's hard to say whether they are structurally sound to use stands with. It really depends on the state of the car. If it's rusted out then you will have problems. If it's just bent you may be ok.

Start by jacking up the front first. Leave the jack stands on their lowest setting. Then do the rear. Then repeat each side slowly going up one step at a time, do not rush this unless you want the car sliding off the stands. R34 Skylines should be similar to R33 Skylines: If you are having trouble with rear clearance when lifting the front you may want to get some wood to drive the car onto first to raise it before you begin lifting the front.

As as general rule I do not recommend buying any injectors that lack a diffuser plate. Also if you are concerned about transient fuel tuning you want to avoid the ID injectors, if you talk to Adaptronic they have mentioned that the wall wetting effects are much stronger with the pencil spray pattern used on the ID injectors when used in 4V DOHC setups because much of the fuel goes straight into the divider between the valves. If you want to run E85 at all just go for the Bosch 0280158040 injectors, I believe NZEFI sells them with some adapters to be a direct fit for RB25DET with top feed fuel rail.

The 78Works stuff is a Coplus headlight. You can probably get one locally and save on shipping charges. There's some threads on the "Morimoto" Corvette LED headlights which are also made by Coplus: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-corvette-general-discussion/4152679-vette-lights-new-to-market-c6-corvette-morimoto-xb-led-headlights-group-buy.html I contacted them a while back to see if they had an LHD variant but it sounds like they only make the RHD variant. I'm guessing that to get an LHD version of the R32 LED lights people would have to organize a non-trivial group buy.

http://midoriseibi.co.jp/blog/5094 Supposedly Midori Seibi has some aftermarket LED bulbs that actually work properly and have some improvement but they're expensive and nobody I know of has actually bothered to try them out. Most people go for HID retrofit or give up and run the higher brightness halogens.

Yeah if you have a single injector failure then things are going to be bad but at least these days you can detect when something is wrong, if your map is decent you shouldn’t need more than 10-15% short term correction.

I can tell you with something like Toyota's 3S-GTE it makes sense, 100%. If the stock Nissan map is anything like the stock Toyota 3S-GTE map they were terrified because they had no real visibility into AFR when running rich so the sandbagging in both timing and fueling is substantial. Basically max injector duty cycle as soon as you get into boost because they have no idea if fuel pressure is low or an injector is clogged or any number of factors. If you run a wideband you can do things properly, which is to say run the engine closer to lambda .9 or so at low RPM, high load to help the engine build boost where cooling is better, then enrich at higher RPM to prevent knock. You also don't have to pick a crazy rich gas AFR like 10.5:1, you can lean out to 12.5:1 if you're keeping stock timing values.

Generally speaking I don't recommend doing a drivetrain swap vs just buying the trim you want. The cost of buying a clean R34 GTT is likely to be less than the cost of doing a proper swap. This is doubly true for anything that involves bodywork.

I'm willing to bet that you're in for a major, major amount of work if you buy that one. Probably 30k AUD worth.

I think these are turbos that are competing with -9s and the HKS GT3-SS, it's shocking to me that power noses over even earlier than stock.

Dyno chart from their marketing literature, turbo barely came out a week ago: Maybe it's the first halfway decent turbo Tomei has put out? From what I recall their ARMS journal bearing turbos were horrendous. Personally I don't buy those dyno charts, it's likely that it gives up some low RPM power to get more power at high RPM. What confuses me is why the turbine trim is 82. That sounds like a very high number to me.

You get more valve lift which will help. If you want to spool the turbo a little sooner get the 254 degree cams instead.

Put some paint on it and a bit of soft vinyl as the sacrificial layer? Pretty common "mod" these days: http://www.garage-yoshida.net/daiko/

Run a bad tune and your 500 dollar motor will be worth 0 dollars in a hurry.

E85 is dirt cheap in the US right now, even cheaper than E10. In the corn producing states we're talking about 0.80 USD/gal because there is a massive oversupply. It's curious to me what's stopping the import of US ethanol to reduce cost. Is there some massive import duty to protect local industry?

In the US right now ethanol and corn prices have hit all time lows now that there's a massive oversupply.

250k is conservative. 8% of the country getting infected is super, super unlikely considering how lax the measures were. Florida didn't shut down the beaches and the net effect is that they helped seed the disease across the entire country:

Motul 8100 should be good. If you're going full race the 300V stuff is supposedly better but the change interval is something like 2000 miles.

Foaming in gasoline engines occurs when you do something like hard cornering and oil sloshes up the sides of the crankcase and gets whipped up by the crankshaft. Or the piston squirters in the OEM and Tomei RB26 pistons that cause oil to fall onto the crank that gets whipped up. Do this at 8000+ RPM and you will create some foam. Or overfill and the crank will start whipping up oil as soon as you turn the starter. I'm always super, super skeptical of oil discussions because it's pretty much cargo cult stuff or straight up pyramid schemes in the case of Amsoil. But there is this post: Whether there's any truth to this post is hard to say, but the source is here: Personally nothing I run is ever going to need more than whatever full synthetic is 5 USD/quart online or at a local store. I would probably be just fine with Rotella T6. But I would be very cautious of making that recommendation to all people for all things.

Foaming is created in dynamic conditions, you usually need high RPM to cause it. Low RPM conditions it shouldn't happen. Unless you have a viewing port in the crankcase you wouldn't know. Personally I'm not a tribologist and I don't feel like gambling an engine on oil selection. There is a Rotella T6 that is dual rated. But I don't think it's wise to run an engine oil that is not rated for gasoline engines or only has bare minimum certs. Especially when you can find a lot of different oils that meet whatever spec you're looking for for any given engine. Maybe a dedicated diesel engine oil works great for you but it seems unwise to recommend that in general.

Rotella T6 is not recommended for high RPM engines due to the lack of anti-foaming additives. It works great on low RPM engines like diesels and low RPM gas engines like LS engines but the RBs rev high and tend to create a lot of oily air.