joshuaho96

pretty much any time I talk about the process to get one of these cars and my experience with the process thus far I feel like I have brain damage if I'm honest

Right, if the cooler is insufficient then the thermostat crack/full flow temp spec won't be what determines the oil temperature. But for street use when ambient is like 4C I would worry about the oil never getting up to temp on the highway and just turning to milkshake.

60-70k AUD is a good price if it's in good condition. The Evo is the objectively better car, interior might be a bit cheaper but it can't be far off. Only reason to pick a GTR is the inline 6 and driving feel, the Evo is never going to be the hooning type of car, the AWD system is a lot more neutral with either a bit of understeer or a bit of oversteer. The R32 will oversteer quite a lot at lower speeds, especially if your g sensor/ATTESA actuator/transfercase are tired.

Are Evos any cheaper? Fuel economy on both are pretty terrible. If you don't need the GTR for commuting because you take public transit/bike/walk it's much more viable to use it as your only car. But I really don't recommend either the Evo or the GT-R as a commuter.

That makes sense, and explains the trend of electrically heated thermostats. But the OEM coolant thermostat cracks at 76.5C or so and under normal driving with good cooling it shouldn't greatly exceed 85-90C. In comparable conditions I would imagine a 70C thermostat on the oil cooler to lead to oil that never gets past 100C unless you exceed the cooling capacity of the system. Oil should be hotter than coolant so wouldn't you want to run an 80C or 85C thermostat?

If you want a GTR badly, get a Prius as a daily and the GT-R as a weekend car. The reality is that an R32 GTR has an extremely weak chassis, even before we even talk about how half of these cars coming from Japan have compromised structural integrity from rust. I've seen too many GTR wrecks to consider driving one as a daily, any frontal offset or side impact collision is basically guaranteed to collapse the floor pan underneath you and force the dash into your face. You'll be lucky to walk away intact as a person after they cut you out of the car. That's not even considering that the type of insurance you want for driving this car is going to be an agreed value policy, maybe in Australia/NZ they have no issue covering 12,000 km per year but most insurers in the US will refuse to cover you if that's the kind of usage/mileage you want to do. Also consider the running costs. Unless you're willing to put up like 4.5 million yen on a total restoration of the car you're going to be regularly spending a lot of money fixing things as they break, especially if you're counting on it to get to places with any regularity. Stuff like heater core hoses, heater core leaks, that's the kind of thing that is extremely labor intensive to do with the engine in the car. You can buy a car with all of this already done but it's going to be more than the market average. On top of that you have the issues everyone else mentioned like fuel economy, the ease with which these things are stolen and cut in half to get shipped to the US for parts, the realities of daily driving like endless door dings, trolley taps, rock chips, windscreen cracking, people keying your car because you're driving something nicer than a beat to hell Prius, etc... I'm not trying to tell you to not buy an R32 GTR. If you are sure you want one and you've done your research/test drives then you should do it. But these cars aren't daily drivers anymore. Obviously your risk tolerance may be different from mine. Some people are fine with driving a 90s Corolla/Camry forever and an R32 is pretty comparable in that regard, the numbers are just bigger.

Something I've been a bit curious about is whether anyone has messed with the crossover hose. I would figure when the intake manifold is pulling vacuum you want all the fresh air to go in from the hot side, through the crankcase, and out the cold side. Then when the intake manifold is seeing boost, you want all flow from both the "cold side" and the "hot side" to go out to the pre-turbo intake so I imagine that's when you want the crossover hose to see flow. Supposedly this just has a restrictor on it. Has anyone tried bypassing/drilling the restrictor on this hose and putting a check valve on it instead? Trying to come up with a list of things to do to get a ~300awkw, stock rev limit R33 GTR to not ventilate a block doing relatively light track work on pretty tame tires, probably no grippier than Michelin PS4S. I just want to have fun, not going for time attack or anything like that. Not filling the intake with oil would also be nice to have. Don't really want to go dry sump mostly for the packaging headaches, street use is going to be primary with just a few HPDE sessions.

I was under the impression that you want to hold engine oil temps at 100C and coolant around 90C, so a 90C thermostat seems more reasonable? Pretty much every oil cooler kit for RBs has a thermostat crack temp of 70C which is kind of ridiculous.

Is this why all the oil cooler kits on the market have laughably low thermostat crack temps like 70C?

Spline drive is sensitive to any misalignment so be very careful to install it properly. I think the Nitto "sine drive" stuff might be a little better but not as big a deal as they make it out to be.

Cars are pay to play, it sucks but that's life.

It's not just the horsepower figure, it's the torque and drivetrain. You may be able to get away with lightweight, try it first and see if it grinds at all.

Shockproof heavy works if you are running a 5 speed GTR with a lot of AWD torque. Keeps you from destroying 3rd gear. Otherwise lightweight is a thinner oil.

If the synchros are on the way out some lightweight shockproof will help but only delay the inevitable. Don't shift quickly, double-clutch your downshifts. You will be able to get a bit more out of the transmission before rebuild. Don't try to DIY a transmission rebuild unless you feel like taking the transmission out multiple times. You will save a lot of money if you're willing and able to drop the transmission yourself, that's a good chunk of change right there.

You can get a flatter flow rate vs fuel pressure curve and a flatter fuel pressure vs current draw curve with brushless fuel pumps these days. I believe the R35s run 3.5 bar base fuel pressure to improve atomization. Everything is a trade-off. I would say this is the way to go as well. Just keep in mind that fakes are everywhere, be very careful to source genuine parts if you go this route and get your injectors characterized if you can for various offset tables in your ECU of choice. Other thing to think about is whether you want to run E85 or not. If you do I don't think the ~550cc class injectors will flow enough. You want closer to 750cc in that case. Closest things that are actually modern injectors are either the SARD 850cc high impedance injectors or the Bosch 980cc mentioned already in this thread. The SARD injectors are Denso parts, just not sure what the OE application was. Bosch 980cc was originally used in some Renault I believe. I don't recommend ID injectors, maybe it matters if you want accurate/repeatable fuel delivery down to 0.2ms of effective injector open time or 10 bar of fuel pressure or whatever but their injectors lack the diffuser plate used in most modern injectors which causes the spray to go straight into the divider walls between the valves, which increases the amount of wall wetting and makes it harder to get transient fueling nailed down as a result. They're optimizing for an extreme that doesn't make sense if you want 300 kw with -9s.

if it's any consolation the F30 has pretty numb steering.

My understanding is that MotiveDVD is the word of god and they recommended a head drain in their oil control video, thus the head drain is the only way to go.

The underside definitely has some light corrosion on the suspension components and such. But I suspect original parts/finish is more important to whoever is buying this than that.

Actual correct answer, it’ll actually get halfway decent fuel mileage too if you fix the gearing.

Don't jack the pinch welds with a trolley jack under any circumstance if you can help it, even with these rubber pucks. The problem is that the arc of the trolley jack is such that it pulls on the pinch weld as you lift. A scissor jack goes straight up and down. It's only acceptable to use those points on a two post lift because the lift is making contact with all 4 points simultaneously and the load is very light. Nissan has made very nice provisions for trolley jacks that allow you to lift the front and rear of the car safely, use those points instead of trying to lift from the rockers.

The trouble is that the rust starts between the panels where it isn't easy to actually see it. I think this one is fine, especially if it's living in the desert. But it's going to take a lot of work to actually prevent the strut rust from advancing in a place like Canada. So many R33s from Canada have pretty severe rust issues right now.

If you have to have something that is "lower flow" the SARD Denso 850cc top feed high impedance injectors are nominally lower flow. But we're talking about 850cc vs 880-980cc depending on who you ask for the Bosch injectors.

I'll let someone else speak to jack stand placement, I only use the pinch weld because that's the factory position and I try very hard to not damage them. For the front you jack by the crossmember you circled in red. Jack the rear by the diff. Those are the OEM designed floor jack/trolley jack points. Anywhere else is not a good idea. For placing jack stands on the sills you need a rubber pad that avoids engaging the protrusion to avoid bending and splitting: Probably what happened is someone improperly jacked the car, wrecked the pinch welds, and now it's hard to say whether they are structurally sound to use stands with. It really depends on the state of the car. If it's rusted out then you will have problems. If it's just bent you may be ok.

Start by jacking up the front first. Leave the jack stands on their lowest setting. Then do the rear. Then repeat each side slowly going up one step at a time, do not rush this unless you want the car sliding off the stands. R34 Skylines should be similar to R33 Skylines: If you are having trouble with rear clearance when lifting the front you may want to get some wood to drive the car onto first to raise it before you begin lifting the front.

As as general rule I do not recommend buying any injectors that lack a diffuser plate. Also if you are concerned about transient fuel tuning you want to avoid the ID injectors, if you talk to Adaptronic they have mentioned that the wall wetting effects are much stronger with the pencil spray pattern used on the ID injectors when used in 4V DOHC setups because much of the fuel goes straight into the divider between the valves. If you want to run E85 at all just go for the Bosch 0280158040 injectors, I believe NZEFI sells them with some adapters to be a direct fit for RB25DET with top feed fuel rail.