joshuaho96

Do you have any hose clamps that are not OEM? You must use constant tension clamps in the system or when it gets cold it can be a "vacuum leak" on the intake side of the pump. The other thing to think about is whether there is excessive restriction on the inlet side of the pump. If it's pulling too much vacuum the cavitation on the pump will generate air bubbles as well and also burn the fluid.

Maybe, but HKS' laughably expensive advanced heritage intake system (1.5M yen, listed by USA dealers at 15k USD) was sold out almost immediately and I'm not sure they ever re-opened orders for it. That's the kind of money that gets you a new block and head these days and people are spending it on benefits that boil down to "the twin turbos aren't quite as garbage as before".

Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.

It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.

The reservoir is pretty far from the pump, as others have said some of the pipe is also a rather janky power steering cooler. Find the leak. It might be the rack, might be a hose/pipe, etc.

Easy place to start is jack up the front end, turn steering wheel lock to lock and see if any air bubbles purge. If nothing happens it's probably time to pull the pump and inspect. It could also be a line is clogged for whatever reason and you need to isolate the part of the system that is blocked on the high pressure side causing the pump to be unhappy.

Is the RB26 actually that far off the mark? Honestly from where I'm sitting a VR38DETT is not actually that much more advanced than the RB26. Yes, there is a scavenge pump on the VR38, it's smarter in a number of ways but it's not actually jumping out to me as alien technology. Something like a B58 or V35A-FTS on the other hand has so many surprising little design features that add up to be something that just isn't comparable.

I thought an engine that needs more ignition timing to make power is going to result in less power due to reduced knock margin? More time for the combustion to propagate -> more time for it to heat up the rest of the mix to detonation.

I thought the problem with doing this is the engine needs more timing and therefore is actually less efficient? Modern engines need very little timing to get to MBT, those super sharp edges on the squish pads are probably not the right way to get there but doing away with it entirely doesn't sound right either.

Something strange I noticed is the squish pads on the cylinder head are missing. This doesn't seem super wise to do for a relatively street-oriented build? The shot of it is at 6:42. Does it look like they just machined it out for some reason? Surface finish is visibly different so my best guess is yes.

This SEMA has been interesting for product announcements. PRP finally got their cast block + head fully assembled for initial testing.

It's my experience that when cars get old enough every failure starts to be unique and surprising like this. They must be reading Anna Karenina or something.

https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/er34/3945-rb25det/trans/317/31940N/ The pictures of the part you're talking about is clearly not just one solenoid. You can see another picture of it here: https://www.alltranz.com.au/shop/drivetrain/automatic-transmission/RE5R01A/product/9305/ The 4 speed automatic in the GTT is Nissan corporate stuff. You can search up similar jobs done on a Frontier or Pathfinder with a RE4R01B to get an idea for what the internals are going to look like and the procedure like this:

Right, not sure why I thought it to be a lean spike. It might be fixable with modern card-style hot film MAFs which have some design features to avoid counting reversion flow but I've never tried it myself.

If you block off the BOV entirely you will get reversion out of the MAF and get a lean spike instead of a rich spike as the MAF double-counts the airflow.

These are sold all the time at Walmart and like others have said the angle is "more eco friendly". It is slightly cheaper. Oil-contaminated plastics cannot be recycled so less of it is better, but you need a whole bunch of extra stuff to handle this. You need probably one clean 5 quart oil jug you set aside to use as an intermediate holding tank. You need your local hazmat to return your oil catch pan AND you need to make sure whatever oil catch pan you use can hold engine oil without any risk of leaking during transport. Or you have dedicated used engine oil containers that your local curbside recycling will drain and return. Personally I have stuck to just buying 5 quart bottles because this is just too much mess to be worth the hassle.

Probably yes. I think I could make it work but I'd rather not chance it. I've been having to ask friends for help because the transmission is just that heavy and for the price of ~30 USD I can get the OS Giken one in soon which should guarantee that clutch alignment won't prevent the transmission from seating properly.

I'm pretty sure it's just this specific Dorman one. I checked it with the hub by itself and even then it was already shedding plastic. It's only once I ran into all these issues with assembling the clutch that I decided to be skeptical of the plastic alignment tool as well and found it to have a notable amount of slop as the clutch is heavy enough to allow the plastic to bend.

The "one cylinder is 160 while others is 180" part of the compression test sounds bad. That's 12% lower than the others. I would bet something has happened there.

I forgot we're talking about an R34. So probably not the R33 dreaded tachometer failure. It might be related then. You might need an oscilloscope to diagnose this stuff unfortunately. Scope the tachometer signal and see what it looks like vs a clean normal tach signal, check grounds, etc. Constant +12V to the fuel pump is always going to cause high fuel pressure at idle. The OEM setup uses the FPCM to slow down the pump to hit 3 bar at idle. Your tuner likely worked around this by adjusting fueling around idle and low load but it's very fragile as you are discovering. Any weirdness will cause running issues. Air can get into the fuel rail, either because of a leak or because of fuel boiling from heat. Hopefully neither though. Injectors pulsing + pressure building at the pump + fuel return will purge all of this. My experience is this is primarily an issue if your fuel system doesn't hold pressure + you're getting the fuel extremely hot from a warm restart and an engine bay that traps too much heat. A stock fuel system has all of this already engineered out.

If you had to pick between Pulsar and Hypergear I would probably go Hypergear.

Oops, guess I accidentally deleted the last digit of the video ID. This one drives me nuts. VCT is such a big advantage for basic driveability and it costs very little to do. It's not like we're dealing with an E60 M5 with its dedicated high pressure VVT oil pump + hydraulic line carrying 1000+ psi and all that fun stuff. I also see a lot of people speak poorly about EGR and try to delete it in modern GDI engines. The problem is modern GDI relies on cooled high pressure EGR to improve timing margin at high load + RPM. So unless you're compensating for it by raising octane you have to completely retune when it's deleted.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Y3mHN8HbG This is about 450 whp and it's keeping up with a modern GT3 RS. Obviously some caveats to that but I think our brains are all broken by modern car power numbers. It's really everything around the engine that needs to be up to scratch. This particular R32 last time had some random BBK on it and clearly it wasn't good enough because he switched it to AP Racing for this go around. I'm reliably surprised by how much the little things matter when you're modifying cars. Every last detail is critical.

If your idle fuel pressure suddenly changed for any reason it would cause the problem you're seeing. Running rich is as bad as lean. The tachometer issue is likely a red herring. Pull the cluster out and resolder the joints to fix that one. You can also flow test your injectors.

ENR34 manual transmission transfer cases are 33100-23U00 which is shared with all of the R32/R33 GT-Rs and GTS-4s. And the C34 Stagea. Do not bother with automatics, that is a huge effort to swap and the car will be worse for it. And an automatic transfer case does not have the right housing for the shifter which comes out the back of the transmission and goes through the transfer case. I already posted my response on reddit but if you didn't see it there here it is: You have almost certainly damaged the transfer case, the only question is how badly. Nobody can tell you how bad without more information. If you have a giant hole in the transfer case pissing out all the transfer case fluid then you need a new one. If it's not that bad then the only question is whether you burned up the clutches. Drain the transfer case oil and inspect for metal on the drain plug magnet. Small black filings are normal. Big chunks of metal or a ton of black fuzzies not so much. Fluid should be nice and red. Any other color isn't great. If the color is reasonably red and there's not a bunch of clutch material discoloring it or anything like that you probably got away with insubstantial excess wear not worth trying to fix. If you have to rebuild or replace the transfer case keep in mind you have to pull the transmission to get it off.