daninchainz

I have 5v stuck on my middle signal wire (which references throttle all the way open?) I am trying to calibrate it by using a multimeter. One on earth and one on signal but I cant because It is stuck on 5v. It is the middle wire. The one next to it is a ground and other side is constant 5v. Any suggestions? I have tried another sensor with same result

Have a blue plug ecu, I’m hoping it’s for an RB20DET the numbers are a bit faded but it looks to be 23710-04U32 and MEC-R132 with a big 22 on it. Can anyone confirm what it’s for? Going to be running a 20det in my r32

Awesome thanks heaps

Wellington region

Didn’t know the plus T had so much hate ?

Nope asking if anyone has done it? no one deals with nistune in my area otherwise that’d be fine

These aren’t the answers I’m looking for, I’m asking if anyone has done it before. Obviously a decent ecu and det motor will be the best option (which in the future I will go for) but for now I am asking a simple question

I don’t want to buy a $2000 link and $1500 on a tune for a $500 motor lol.

Trying to find a straight forward answer and see if anyone has had any experience with a 20det ecu in a plus T. So I have a 20de ecu running in my plus T, stock injectors have been cleaned and a walbro 255 installed with adjustable fpr. It runs fine, boost fine, only on 5psi to be safe but looking to bump it up to about 7-10psi and was wondering if the red 20det injectors will work with the install of a 20det R32 ecu, I have found someone saying the timing is different and therefore will pre ignite etc. Surely someone has experience with this, my other option is a $130 speedlab chip for a plus T to run with red injectors.

Do I just cap the pipe on the manifold?

Hi, am looking at getting rid of heater hoses on my car. I am gonna buy a Franklin Engineering heater hose delete kit but I noticed that the bottom pipe near the thermostat outlet was not there (the small one which goes to the intake manifold) just checking if anyone knows why or if there’s any pros/cons I have pictures to explain

Callipers were on wrong side ? swapped them around, bleed nipple on top and bled up fine! Here’s to good braking ?

I have upgraded from the 4 stud small brakes to big. I had bled them by my self with a bottle and hose making sure the bottom of the hose was fully submerged so air wouldn’t get sucked back up and pumped the fluid through, the callipers are L and R but not sure about rears as I couldn’t see a mark, will get a mate to help bleed and if that fails will look in to master cylinder thanks !

Goes down 1/2-3/4 of the way with no pressure, pump it up a bit gets firmer but still goes down about 1/2

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Hi, have an r32 with r33 big brakes/5 stud all round and gktech braided lines. Have bled it up, pedal is still very soft, no obvious leaks either but will give it a full flush on the weekend and post results. I was just wondering if people have had issues with the master cylinder/brake booster when doing this conversion or is there a proportionate valve that could make the pedal feel crap? Or is it just how the pedal feels with this conversion. Car is going through cert so needs to be firm

Cool will let you know if I figure it out

Do you have a link?

Is there a way to hard wire the alternator for testing? I don’t think it’s getting the “excite” signal. Would it be safe to run 12v or 5v or whatever it is to the terminal where the white/red wire goes

Yeah that’s what I thought but 3 seperate alternators? One of them I know is in definite working condition?

Ok shitty electric problem, so I turn the ignition on and the battery light does not turn on. All the other dash lights do, I have checked the bulb and continuity from the red/white wire at the alternator plug to the ecu pin and there is no break in the circuit. The alternator is not charging, I have tried 3 different alternators all having the same issue. I have checked everything at the alternator there is no voltage loss or any reason it shouldn’t charge I am stumped. Any ideas? sorry for a sort of double post

Also fuel pump doesn’t prime

Alternator isn’t charging and cluster isn’t working. The far right relay was not working and I jumped it and cluster worker. Alternator still not charging. Black wire behind middle relay in photo is broken. Can anyone tell me what that wire and those relays are for? Can’t find anything. Car does not crank now after small black wire breaking.

Also windows aren’t working

Alternator wasn’t charging, replaced that. Still no charge and instrument cluster isn’t doing anything. Checked all fuses they are all ok. Any ideas?