Jjtxaz24

That's good to know. I just wanted to double check. I left the 4WD fuse in and left it as if it was good, before I lowered the car off the jackstands I actually ran it through the gears and it was transferring the torque to the front wheels. Unfortunately today after driving it around it still seems to be leaking. I made sure all bleeder locations were tight before I brought it down. I'll have to lift it back up and check again. Car drives me insane sometimes lol.

I drove the car this morning and the 4WD light on the gauge cluster is off (from what I read it comes on due to being low on fluid), picture in my last post is where the fluid level is still at. The torque gauge in the cluster moves up as normal when I pick up the RPMs. It seems to be working fine I just cant get the fluid to fill the enclosed part of the reservoir by activating the pump how the manual suggest.

Alright. Update. I got the fluids in the transfer case. Went to try and bleed the ATTESSA reservoir in the trunk and when I would unplug the clip in the front driver side I would hear the relay in the boot click on but i didnt hear the pump prime. I think the pumps screwed now. I dont know if it leaks just yet where the actuator mates with the transfer case, it was late when I did it. Should I leave the 4WD fuse out under the dash or put it in and see if it moved the fluid into the reservoir. Heres what it currently looks like: heres what I used as a guide: And also this video link:

This is excellent information to have I will report back if the leak is still persistent. Agreed. Our boy Josh doing the dirty work.

Saw this post after I ordered the 515. I've already drained the transfer case, and ran a bead to let it cure. Did it Friday and went out of town so hopefully when I get back I can fill it and top off the ATTESSA reservoir in the trunk and bleed the system. Also replaced those hoses. I took off the shifter boot and replaced it with a new one. What if that was where it was leaking from too? Boot was torn and worn out. The new one fits snug and I put a zip tie around the bottom to hopefully keep it secure and the ATF fluid in.

That's good to know. Ordered the 515 should be here Thursday so I'll get it done this weekend. Then I'll wait for the next problem to come up... Anyone on here know how to tune with NISTune by any chance? Lol.

Sounds good. I'd assume like Duncan suggested that loctite would be very similar if not better to the nissan flavor. I also searched and didn't see a gasket required

Awesome. Thanks guys.

I can say with confidence that the actuator is a metal on metal surface and flat with no indentation to run a seam. I don't believe depth is critical. It sits flush against the back of the transfer case and then it gets torqued down to like 50 ftlbs (can't remember off the top of my head at the moment) Here's a picture of it.

Noted. I'll look one up and see what the local parts store got, otherwise I'll order it. Don't plan on working on it until the weekend. Edit: this is the one I got. Would this not work? It's what came up when I googled "gasket compound".

I'm not worried about the fluid in the reservoir. It's pretty low that a flush is required anyways and when I change those hoses out for new ones I'm sure I'll loose the rest. I'll have to refill and bleed it anyways. Ok so I'll make a paper gasket and use some RTV to help seal it. Got both on hand. I was curious about that as well.

As always Duncan, thanks man. You always come in clutch. Ok so I removed and reinstalled #1 a few times. After looking through the service manual I found out this was the actuator that is fed from the reservoir in the boot as you mentioned through a few hoses and a high pressure one. When I removed it, there was no gasket. Once I looked into it and through the forums I saw the actuator has a built in gasket in the actuator itself. Side question: the metal rod in there. Is there a specific way it goes? It's rounded on both sides and I'm sure it's what the actuator pushes on to engage the transfer case to transfer the torque to the front wheels. In regards to #2, the threaded fitting and angle seat. Which is this? Is this what connects to the actuator itself? If it is a line that connects to the actuator, I never undid it but I can double check it's tight, it could have come loose when I unbolted the 2 bolts off the actuator that connects it to the transfer case those couple times. You are right, luckily both are accessible and don't require me to drop the trans or anything crazy. I need to make some time this weekend to knock it out. Again I appreciate the help.

Recently did a clutch install and noticed a leak that seems to be coming from the rear of that transmission where the actuator is. I can tell it's not my transmission fluid because I used the redline shockproof and that was a thicker, more pinkish color. I filled the transfer case with ATF and that is bright red. That seems to be the fluid I am leaking. My question is, would I be able to use RTV to help make the seal on the actuator? I know these actuators have a built in lip that act as a gasket/oring and considering the cars 30+ and I had to remove it on and off a few times it might be due for a new one (hopefully it's not). Prior to the clutch job, there was no leaks from. I'm waiting for some replacement hoses to change out the lines for the ATTESSA canister in the trunk leading to the actuator and address another leak that I've had from there for a little bit. Appreciate your advice and thanks in advance guys!

I'm excited to be driving it again and my boys are too. Yeah, I removed the mantic and used the xclutch twin. I honestly think the throw out bearing sleeve being 18mm is what was causing the problem. The original one I snapped is 15mm, when I ordered the new one that was "OEM" I measured it and it came to 18mm. I didn't measure the mantic kit to the xclutch. The one that came with the new clutch kit is 15mm. I reused my OE fork, and pivotball (just a new one) everything else is what was in the kit.

Well there's a saying round here that goes "third times the charm." Removed and installed the trans on Friday (had a day off and kids were at day care) in about 7 hrs with some breaks for lunch and sanity checks. Bled the clutch today and topped off the tranafer case (still gotta figure out how to get the 4WD light off on the dash - I vacuum Bled the actuator, but it's still on) but she drives perfectly. Clutch feels good and it's nice to have her out of the garage in time for some summer cruising... Maintenance never ends and still got little things to do but for now it's good. Learned some tips to get that starter bolt on/off and the top bell housing bolts. Thank you all for all your help!!

I do think the release bearing is to tall (now that I installed it and ran into the same issue) for this clutch set up and that's why it's running into issues. I reached out to mantic and they didn't have any specifics to tell me as to what release bearing to use, all they said was its OEM compatible. Original that was in the car was 15mm I broke it and ordered a new one and that one was 18mm. That's what's in the car. Didn't work. I ended up just ordering a whole new kit that comes with everything. I looked at this when I first started to look for clutches and I should of just ordered it when I saw it. I would have saved myself the time and money from the get-go. Silver lining to this is I have the removal and install of this heavy ass transmission and that top starter bolt down so I can get it done in an evening instead of over a few days on the weekend. Lol.

Alright well I had some free time and it's all buttoned up. Still not working. Mantic warrantied out the clutch and I threw that in there. Dropped it on the ground and didn't go anywhere. I made sure to bleed it right. Pulled up the FSM and found I need to bleed the master, junction box and slave. Done. I guess I just need a whole different clutch set up. I don't know what to do at this point. 😕

That's how I had it. Company confirmed too. Figired I'd ask befor I put it all back together again just in case. I'll hopefully have the trans in today and see if that fixes my issue.

I emailed the company and waiting for a response, figured I'd see if you guys got any idea. Which direction does the clutch disk go? It's not labeled nor does it indicate a specific way. A: B: I had it in the car as "A". Here's 2 other pics of them side by side. As always, I appreciate your help.

That was my next step. I asked if they had a particular height I needed to have In order to instal it. The one I have is 18 mm and the one that was fitted on the car before is 15mm. I had to replace the carrier group after I broke the old one (pressed on the bearing and snapped on the ear where the fork sits -oops).

Got a reply back from mantic... bearing was installed correctly. I also check the clutch disk and everything else and it's also installed properly, lol. So, guess I'll be installing the original fork and new (original length) pivot ball and hope that was my issue.

Alright, so I pulled the trans back out and will be putting in the oem length pivot ball, plus side is it took me 2 hours to drop the trans and 40 minutes of that was to reach the top bolt on the starter... thing is a pain in the ass!! Issue/concerns: The original pivot ball (longer one) requires me to use the old fork. I don't have an issue with that. I think that's what I'll do and will hopefully fix my issue. I'm pretty sure the throwout bearing is installed the correct way, but I have my doubts. I will email mantic to see if they can confirm it's right or that I have installed it backwards. Thoughts? Front towards engine/clutch forks: Towards rear of car: Side view with original fork that was in car: I'd appreciate any assistance on this. Not sure what else would have caused my issues.

It went into 1st, 2nd, 3rd and I didn't force it into 4th, 5th and you can hear it grind as I tried to put it into reverse. Putting it in 1st, 2nd and 3rd takes some effort though so something is definitely wrong. I do get all gears when car is off and no load though. The throwout bearing I used came with the kit and the TOB carrier is the stock height, I measured it and inspected it before installing it. I did replace the old one because it had stress fractures so I assumed it would go out on me. The pivot ball (smaller one) came with the kit and idk if that's the culprit or not, it's a leverage point so it might be what's causing the trans not to disengage when it's on. The reason I used the smaller one over the longer one is it came with the fork upgrade kit. When I tried to screw in the pivot ball though it was a smaller thread size. Which in turn caused me to order a front trans cover to be able to use the short pivot ball. I'm assuming the old cover some one tapped and drilled to fit the one I had before (longer one). Previous clutch was a twin disk and its dated 1/11/18, not sure on brand or anything here's some pics. You can see where the clutch forks were getting grinded on by the TOB and I'm guessing it's from the pilot bushing being a little ate up. This was causing the engine to bog to the point where it would almost stalling out. I ended up changing out the clutch master and slave thinking it was a vacuum leak.

Went in and bled the clutch, and adjusted the clutch pedal... 20230312_120053.mp4 Here's a picture of the clutch master.

The clutch is a push clutch and it does move when I press the clutch in. I have not taken the car off the jack stands but it is hard to put into gear when it is on, I don't know if I'd say it crunches. I am using a mantic clutch and it came as a kit with the throw out bearing so I used the one they provided. I also upgraded the forks. The clutch master is not a stock GTR one, it is a s15 master because I took off the clutch booster before removing the clutch thinking I had a vacuum leak (car would bog down when I pushed in the clutch bad to the point it was almost stalling when I pressed the clutch. It turned out pilot bushing and clutch plate were toast). The one on the right is from a company down here and it's meant to replace the oem GTR kit with a beefier set up. It's kind of a moshposh of parts but I didn't use that TOB, I used the one in the clurch kit since I figured it's the one they'd want to me to use. 20230311_121024.mp4 Haven't bled it yet but this was yesterday trying it out to see if it worked. I'm going to try to bleed the system and adjust the clutch on the master today. I didn't do those yesterday because it got late. I really hope I don't have to drop the trans again, putting it back on and putting the starter on were a bitch. I don't wanna have to do it again.