Jjtxaz24
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Posts posted by Jjtxaz24
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I drove the car this morning and the 4WD light on the gauge cluster is off (from what I read it comes on due to being low on fluid), picture in my last post is where the fluid level is still at. The torque gauge in the cluster moves up as normal when I pick up the RPMs. It seems to be working fine I just cant get the fluid to fill the enclosed part of the reservoir by activating the pump how the manual suggest.
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Alright. Update.
I got the fluids in the transfer case. Went to try and bleed the ATTESSA reservoir in the trunk and when I would unplug the clip in the front driver side I would hear the relay in the boot click on but i didnt hear the pump prime. I think the pumps screwed now.
I dont know if it leaks just yet where the actuator mates with the transfer case, it was late when I did it.
Should I leave the 4WD fuse out under the dash or put it in and see if it moved the fluid into the reservoir.
Heres what it currently looks like:
heres what I used as a guide:
And also this video link:
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33 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:
I took the time to stare at the technical data sheets more carefully, Loctite 518 is more tolerant of bad machining. Both are supposedly fine with a 0.25mm gap but 518 has a lot more shear strength than 515 in that scenario. Both have comparable engine oil tolerance but only 518 is specifically tested for ATF tolerance. 518 actually has less shear strength at 100C than 515 assuming you have that 0.05mm maximum gap. If the 515 fails to seal I would try the 518 and see if that improves anything.
This is excellent information to have I will report back if the leak is still persistent.
28 minutes ago, Duncan said:Excellent information, particularly re ATF resistance since that is what the xfer case and actuator both run.
Agreed. Our boy Josh doing the dirty work.
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On 7/1/2023 at 4:16 AM, BK said:
Sounds like there is a tear in the actuator boot. Use 518 not 515. There is no gasket between the Attesa actuator and transfer case, it relies on the boot of the actuator itself to seal with just an oil film or 518 usually. Failing that, Threebond the mf'er in with 1207C.
Saw this post after I ordered the 515. I've already drained the transfer case, and ran a bead to let it cure. Did it Friday and went out of town so hopefully when I get back I can fill it and top off the ATTESSA reservoir in the trunk and bleed the system. Also replaced those hoses.
I took off the shifter boot and replaced it with a new one. What if that was where it was leaking from too? Boot was torn and worn out. The new one fits snug and I put a zip tie around the bottom to hopefully keep it secure and the ATF fluid in.
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6 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:
When I searched up that part number it was literally a tube of Loctite 518 in a Nissan box. I'm just not sure what the difference is between 515 and 518. Both are anaerobic sealants with similar methacrylate base. As far as I can tell it's just a color difference and 515 needs a longer cure time.
That's good to know. Ordered the 515 should be here Thursday so I'll get it done this weekend. Then I'll wait for the next problem to come up...
Anyone on here know how to tune with NISTune by any chance? Lol.
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5 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:
AFAIK the OEM sealant is actually Loctite 518, listed as p/n C133531X25 if you buy it from Nissan. Checking online I do not see any paper gasket or anything like that for the actuator: https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bcnr33/3935-rb26dett/trans/333/30570X/
Sounds good. I'd assume like Duncan suggested that loctite would be very similar if not better to the nissan flavor. I also searched and didn't see a gasket required
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Awesome. Thanks guys.
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12 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
That's a "gasket maker", which you would use in place of a gasket. Examples would include sump or cam cover flanges, in metal to metal contact, where no paper gasket was intended to be used.
That will likely work on the ATTESA actuator, if the metal to metal contact surfaces are really nice and the insertion depth is not critical. If the insertion depth is dependent on the thickness of a gasket, then it is better to use the correct gasket.
Note I am not all that familiar with the actuator.
I can say with confidence that the actuator is a metal on metal surface and flat with no indentation to run a seam. I don't believe depth is critical. It sits flush against the back of the transfer case and then it gets torqued down to like 50 ftlbs (can't remember off the top of my head at the moment)
Here's a picture of it.
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39 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
RTV is not for sealing gaskets. Use a proper gasket compound.
Noted. I'll look one up and see what the local parts store got, otherwise I'll order it. Don't plan on working on it until the weekend.
Edit: this is the one I got. Would this not work? It's what came up when I googled "gasket compound".
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16 minutes ago, Duncan said:
Right, that makes sense. Yes you can just remove the line from the actuator instead of removing the whole actuator. That has the downside of losing your boot ATTESSA fluid and having to rebleed (unless you can block it some how) but the benefit you've found of not stuffing with the actuator gasket.
I can't find anything in the manual about Actuator re-assembly, so I'd make a gasket from paper and add some of that dark brown gasket harder stuff, then re-assemble. If there is an old gasket stuck to the actuator flange, definitely remove that
I'm not worried about the fluid in the reservoir. It's pretty low that a flush is required anyways and when I change those hoses out for new ones I'm sure I'll loose the rest. I'll have to refill and bleed it anyways.
Ok so I'll make a paper gasket and use some RTV to help seal it. Got both on hand. I was curious about that as well.
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59 minutes ago, Duncan said:
Yeah the line into the back of the transfer case is for the ATTESSA actuation, it is fed from the reservoir in the boot. It is unlikely to be coming from the transfer case itself (same fluid but separate areas) and won't be gearbox fluid back there.
There are 2 common leak points:
1. Where the actuator connects to the transfer case, it is a flange with 2 bolts (from memory) and a gasket. This could leak, if so remove the actuator, replace the gasket, tighten to spec and it should be fine.
2. More common the threaded fitting and angled seat is leaking. Sounds like you have been undoing the line there so that is most likely the issue, I'd remove it again, clean both the threads and actuator with brake clean then retighten. No point adding thread tape / teflon sealer there as the sealing is in the flange not the thread.
90% I'd guess it is #2, and an easy fix. You might have to bleed the ATTESSA afterwards.
As always Duncan, thanks man. You always come in clutch.
Ok so I removed and reinstalled #1 a few times. After looking through the service manual I found out this was the actuator that is fed from the reservoir in the boot as you mentioned through a few hoses and a high pressure one. When I removed it, there was no gasket. Once I looked into it and through the forums I saw the actuator has a built in gasket in the actuator itself.
Side question: the metal rod in there. Is there a specific way it goes? It's rounded on both sides and I'm sure it's what the actuator pushes on to engage the transfer case to transfer the torque to the front wheels.
In regards to #2, the threaded fitting and angle seat. Which is this? Is this what connects to the actuator itself? If it is a line that connects to the actuator, I never undid it but I can double check it's tight, it could have come loose when I unbolted the 2 bolts off the actuator that connects it to the transfer case those couple times.
You are right, luckily both are accessible and don't require me to drop the trans or anything crazy. I need to make some time this weekend to knock it out.
Again I appreciate the help.
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Recently did a clutch install and noticed a leak that seems to be coming from the rear of that transmission where the actuator is.
I can tell it's not my transmission fluid because I used the redline shockproof and that was a thicker, more pinkish color. I filled the transfer case with ATF and that is bright red. That seems to be the fluid I am leaking.
My question is, would I be able to use RTV to help make the seal on the actuator? I know these actuators have a built in lip that act as a gasket/oring and considering the cars 30+ and I had to remove it on and off a few times it might be due for a new one (hopefully it's not).
Prior to the clutch job, there was no leaks from.
I'm waiting for some replacement hoses to change out the lines for the ATTESSA canister in the trunk leading to the actuator and address another leak that I've had from there for a little bit.
Appreciate your advice and thanks in advance guys!
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21 hours ago, Duncan said:
Great to hear that is back together and being enjoyed.
So is the difference that you removed the original clutch kit and installed a new one? Looks like the new kit had a different height with the flywheel/pressure plate stack and came with a different throw out bearing?
I'm excited to be driving it again and my boys are too.
Yeah, I removed the mantic and used the xclutch twin.
I honestly think the throw out bearing sleeve being 18mm is what was causing the problem. The original one I snapped is 15mm, when I ordered the new one that was "OEM" I measured it and it came to 18mm. I didn't measure the mantic kit to the xclutch.
The one that came with the new clutch kit is 15mm. I reused my OE fork, and pivotball (just a new one) everything else is what was in the kit.
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Well there's a saying round here that goes "third times the charm." Removed and installed the trans on Friday (had a day off and kids were at day care) in about 7 hrs with some breaks for lunch and sanity checks.
Bled the clutch today and topped off the tranafer case (still gotta figure out how to get the 4WD light off on the dash - I vacuum Bled the actuator, but it's still on) but she drives perfectly. Clutch feels good and it's nice to have her out of the garage in time for some summer cruising...
Maintenance never ends and still got little things to do but for now it's good.
Learned some tips to get that starter bolt on/off and the top bell housing bolts.
Thank you all for all your help!!
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40 minutes ago, TurboTapin said:
This sounds like an incorrect release bearing length/travel or clutch pedal adjustment issue to me. If your transmission is still on the car, remove your slave cylinder and by hand pushing your clutch fork, how much play is there before the release bearing touches the flywheel?
If your transmission is off, better yet; ask your clutch OEM for a clutch release bearing checking guide. I can supply you one from ACS that more than likely applies to any clutch if needed.
I do think the release bearing is to tall (now that I installed it and ran into the same issue) for this clutch set up and that's why it's running into issues. I reached out to mantic and they didn't have any specifics to tell me as to what release bearing to use, all they said was its OEM compatible. Original that was in the car was 15mm I broke it and ordered a new one and that one was 18mm. That's what's in the car. Didn't work.
I ended up just ordering a whole new kit that comes with everything. I looked at this when I first started to look for clutches and I should of just ordered it when I saw it. I would have saved myself the time and money from the get-go.
Silver lining to this is I have the removal and install of this heavy ass transmission and that top starter bolt down so I can get it done in an evening instead of over a few days on the weekend. Lol.
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Alright well I had some free time and it's all buttoned up. Still not working.
Mantic warrantied out the clutch and I threw that in there. Dropped it on the ground and didn't go anywhere.
I made sure to bleed it right. Pulled up the FSM and found I need to bleed the master, junction box and slave. Done.
I guess I just need a whole different clutch set up. I don't know what to do at this point. 😕
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4 hours ago, r32-25t said:
Side a faces the pressure plate
That's how I had it. Company confirmed too. Figired I'd ask befor I put it all back together again just in case. I'll hopefully have the trans in today and see if that fixes my issue.
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I emailed the company and waiting for a response, figured I'd see if you guys got any idea.
Which direction does the clutch disk go? It's not labeled nor does it indicate a specific way.
A:
B:
I had it in the car as "A".
Here's 2 other pics of them side by side.
As always, I appreciate your help.
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3 hours ago, Duncan said:
Good of them to confirm.
I've never had to do it so don't know the procedure, but you can also measure the height to ensure you have the right carrier and bearing size
That was my next step. I asked if they had a particular height I needed to have In order to instal it. The one I have is 18 mm and the one that was fitted on the car before is 15mm. I had to replace the carrier group after I broke the old one (pressed on the bearing and snapped on the ear where the fork sits -oops).
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Got a reply back from mantic... bearing was installed correctly.
I also check the clutch disk and everything else and it's also installed properly, lol.
So, guess I'll be installing the original fork and new (original length) pivot ball and hope that was my issue.
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Alright, so I pulled the trans back out and will be putting in the oem length pivot ball, plus side is it took me 2 hours to drop the trans and 40 minutes of that was to reach the top bolt on the starter... thing is a pain in the ass!!
Issue/concerns: The original pivot ball (longer one) requires me to use the old fork. I don't have an issue with that. I think that's what I'll do and will hopefully fix my issue.
I'm pretty sure the throwout bearing is installed the correct way, but I have my doubts. I will email mantic to see if they can confirm it's right or that I have installed it backwards. Thoughts?
Front towards engine/clutch forks:
Towards rear of car:
Side view with original fork that was in car:
I'd appreciate any assistance on this. Not sure what else would have caused my issues.
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17 hours ago, Duncan said:
Highly unlikely to be a hydraulic issue, even before bleeding it, your first vid clearly shows the slave cylinder working correctly. Also, the fact that you can get 5 forward gears at idle but not reverse is consistent with the clutch not disengaging
From there it gets trickier, my guess is you have some problem with the throw out bearing or carrier's height. From the side by side pic the bearings seem to have a very different height (and so does the pivot ball but I'm not sure what effect that will have).
I've never had to sort this myself, maybe someone else here can suggest how to check the engagement/bearing height is correct
It went into 1st, 2nd, 3rd and I didn't force it into 4th, 5th and you can hear it grind as I tried to put it into reverse. Putting it in 1st, 2nd and 3rd takes some effort though so something is definitely wrong.
I do get all gears when car is off and no load though. The throwout bearing I used came with the kit and the TOB carrier is the stock height, I measured it and inspected it before installing it. I did replace the old one because it had stress fractures so I assumed it would go out on me.
The pivot ball (smaller one) came with the kit and idk if that's the culprit or not, it's a leverage point so it might be what's causing the trans not to disengage when it's on. The reason I used the smaller one over the longer one is it came with the fork upgrade kit. When I tried to screw in the pivot ball though it was a smaller thread size. Which in turn caused me to order a front trans cover to be able to use the short pivot ball. I'm assuming the old cover some one tapped and drilled to fit the one I had before (longer one).
Previous clutch was a twin disk and its dated 1/11/18, not sure on brand or anything here's some pics. You can see where the clutch forks were getting grinded on by the TOB and I'm guessing it's from the pilot bushing being a little ate up. This was causing the engine to bog to the point where it would almost stalling out. I ended up changing out the clutch master and slave thinking it was a vacuum leak.
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Went in and bled the clutch, and adjusted the clutch pedal...
Here's a picture of the clutch master.
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6 hours ago, Duncan said:
I take it that it just crunches if you try and put it in gear with foot on clutch? Have you taken it for a drive to see if it changes without the clutch (with correct revs)?
Well, you can start by confirming the slave cylinder is moving the fork properly, it should move a cm or 2 when you put foot on the clutch.
From there you kind of need to know what's happening in the bellhousing. Is the fork clipped into the thrust bearing OK (assuming this is a push clutch) and is it also clipped onto the pivot ball OK?
If all that is right, it might be the wrong height carrier/thrust bearing.
The clutch is a push clutch and it does move when I press the clutch in. I have not taken the car off the jack stands but it is hard to put into gear when it is on, I don't know if I'd say it crunches.
I am using a mantic clutch and it came as a kit with the throw out bearing so I used the one they provided. I also upgraded the forks. The clutch master is not a stock GTR one, it is a s15 master because I took off the clutch booster before removing the clutch thinking I had a vacuum leak (car would bog down when I pushed in the clutch bad to the point it was almost stalling when I pressed the clutch. It turned out pilot bushing and clutch plate were toast).
The one on the right is from a company down here and it's meant to replace the oem GTR kit with a beefier set up. It's kind of a moshposh of parts but I didn't use that TOB, I used the one in the clurch kit since I figured it's the one they'd want to me to use.
Haven't bled it yet but this was yesterday trying it out to see if it worked.I'm going to try to bleed the system and adjust the clutch on the master today. I didn't do those yesterday because it got late. I really hope I don't have to drop the trans again, putting it back on and putting the starter on were a bitch. I don't wanna have to do it again.
R32 GTR actuator leak...
in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Posted
That's good to know. I just wanted to double check. I left the 4WD fuse in and left it as if it was good, before I lowered the car off the jackstands I actually ran it through the gears and it was transferring the torque to the front wheels. Unfortunately today after driving it around it still seems to be leaking. I made sure all bleeder locations were tight before I brought it down. I'll have to lift it back up and check again. Car drives me insane sometimes lol.