Jjtxaz24

So clutch is installed and it's all up and running. Issue: car shifts into gears no problem when it's off. When it's on, it wont go in. I got it to go in but it was a struggle. Didn't try again. Any advice.

Got any other pics of this bracketry? It looks like you just boxed up the bottom of the trans so it doesn't roll using the trans mount bolt holes and those on the rear.

Awesome, do you undo the engine mounts off the block or is from the frame so the engine can rock back?

Hey guys, I was looking to see if you all could shed some light on installing the R32 GTR. I currently don't have any help available and all the videos I've seen is how to remove it. I had to replace the clutch and I have been having a hell of a time getting it back in. I am doing this in the garage and the car is on jack stands so that alone makes it harder. I do have a transmission jack and another low-profile jack. I have read that you have to rotate it clockwise for the starter bump to clear the firewall then once it slides in you can rotate it back and tighten it up (writing that out sounds a lot easier said than done, lol) Appreciate any help you can give. Frustrated seeing it on jack stands and not having the motivation to get it done because every time I do I end up failing at it.

Awesome. Thank you Duncan. I'll be ordering from them. They got some good prices. Edit: Went ahead and ordered their stage 2, gonna need the rest of the "while I'm in there parts" free shipping so thats a plus.

What's the price with shipping to 40121?

Hesitant because of the price (its very well priced). I haven't heard anything bad about them, but I just wanted to ask you all since it was recommended here and you've had these cars around way longer. I have seen ACS/Xtreme and that was another company I was leaning towards. Their price is about what I've seen other clutches priced at.

Well stock isn't the intention, I'd like to eventually add some power adders, but at this time it is relatively stock due to the GTR tax 😆. I checked out mantic and they got some good prices, but I'm hesitant. https://www.manticclutch.com/nissan/skyline/1989/2-6-ltr-twin-turbo-rb26dett-208kw/r32-8-89-2-93-gtr?make=1820&model=1946&year=1991&y_id=3052&engine=2.6 Ltr Twin Turbo, RB26DETT, 208kw&e_id=3241&series=4284

Sorry to kick up an old thread, but I'm in the market for a clutch now. Went through this site and I saw the stage 2 was cheaper than stage 1. Overall the prices are really good and I just wanted to know if the company is legit. I was looking to get some what of an OEM+ clutch. Power is near stock and don't forsee me putting more into it. Appreciate the response and assistance.

I have not driven it enough to change the oil, but I can. Short answer. No, I haven't. I will need to give the harmonic balancer a once over. I'm confused as well, it idles fine. Only when I press the clutch init drops RPMs like that. If it helps any I have now deleted both the brake booster and clutch booster, and both vacuum sources have been plugged.

Hey guys, just recently started having this issue where I press the clutch in and my RPMs drop. I thought the clutch booster was old and the diaphram inside it was torn so I did a clutch booster delete, swapped in a new clutch master and slave and plugged the vacuum source that came off the intake plenum that the clutch booster was using. Car still bogging when I press in the clutch. Aside from that I also have a "chirping" noise at idle, but it wasnt as bad as it is now. It was just every once in a while. I suscpect its the throw out bearing, and of course the "clutch chatter" when the clutch pedal is fully engaged, but I've had that ever since I got the car. Here's a link of what it does when I press the clutch in. Any help is much appreciated it. Thanks in advance.

The alternator was replaced because I've had another Nissan do the same thing. Dash and all accessories go out, but car still turns over and runs. Verdict was a bad alternator. I took the same approach with this one only instead of sticking with the same 80-90 amp alternator I upgraded it to a 140 amp. That's the problem with owning pre-owned cars. You never know what the previous owner did/hacked up. I figured this would be the along the lines of the replies I'd get though. Thanks for the help. I'm open to other suggestions or recommendations. I appreciate the help in advance.

Hey guys. I got a question. My old alternator (stock 80 amp) I felt was going out (dash cluster, lights,windows, mirrors would all stop working - car still turned on and worked just no accessories intermittently) I replaced it with a 140 amp alternator and the black wire on my fusible link got super hot and seemed to be melting the wire so I immediately shut it off. I ordered a stock replacement, shown below but it won't be in for a little bit (coming from Japan) in the mean time I replaced that highlighted wire in the first picture (fusible link) with a 10 gauge (30 amp) wire. It still feels warm to touch but not hot like the old smaller wire (IDK what size gauge it was maybe a 16 or something) My question is is the fusible link feeling warm to touch bad? What size gauge is the stock wire? I read that a fusible link is supposed to be smaller to protect the main wire it's linked too. Appreciate the help.

Lol. Sure don't. Yes, yes you did. Appreciate it.

Lol. Yeah top left... They did and I swear it wasn't me. It was me that assumed they knew what they were doing and trusted they clamped it to the balance tube. (I knew where the hose needed to go, just didn't check to see if it was actually there, it wasn't) it was driving me crazy because there was only one way it works. That's probably why Duncan stopped replying, lol. Anywho, all is well and she is good to go. Still got some other little maintenance stuff to take care of but I want to be able to drive her for a little while before winter gets harsh around here so no major upgrades any time soon. Need to save up money for a haltech and some cams. I have a nistune but no one here can tune me up with that.

Ok so I will be the first to admit that I made an ass of myself for assuming someone else knew what they were doing. Issue is fixed. Guy never plugged the vacuum line to the balance tube nipple. It was in the general area (on the throttle body rod assembly, in his defense it does look like a nipple lol) unplugged everything in frustration and realized it was never plugged in. Issue is resolved. GTR is good to go. Thanks for your help guys. Sincerely mean that.

Any other advice? Still haven't figured this out.

The vacuum hoses is plugged in. Car runs great now. Only issue I have is the no boost gauge. Not sure which one you're referring to when you said not plugged in. I followed GTSboys advice and unplugged all the vacuum lines that I showed in the picture and only left the blue one (from the balance tube) to the stock boost gauge sensor. Didn't get any feedback on the gauges when I was in boost on a drive.

I removed all the vacuum lines (to the stock and aftermarket boost gauge) and left the one from the back of the balance tube (blue line) and plugged that in directly to the stock sensor. Nothing. Stock gauge stayed in the middle. I unplugged the pig tail from the stock sensor and in doing so it let the stock gauge turn off as if the car was off and the needle dropped. So there is a signal going to it. It has been sitting for a little while, and before it went down I was able to get a signal/read out on both gauges. Issue was I forgot to plug in the vacuum line in back of the balance tube and couldn't figure out why i was hitting a wall (oversight on my end.)

Check. Will do tomorrow. It's pretty late here and I called it a night.

That runs into the back of my greddy gauge on my A pillar.

This one stays at 0 this one goes to zero when I start it. Here's the stock boost sensor and an aftermarket one. The aftermarket one isn't hooked up so I'm not worried about that. The blue line goes to the balance tube where the boost signal is grabbed from.

Gauges just read 0/neutral spot where they land if the car is off. They don't move at all. I found a torn vacuum line leading to my aftermarket greddy analog gauge. And just replaced it ziptied and made sure all lines were tight and good to go. Still nothing.

Good news is I was able to bleed the system, used a vacuum bleeder and took about 10-12 minutes on both rear calipers, There was lots of air. Fronts were good to go. I had speed bleeders on the brembos so took like 3 pumps and they were good. Current new issue is my stock and aftermarket boost gauges aren't reading anything. They stay at 0 at all times.

Maybe I can try and vacuum/pressure bleed them before I redo the line to make sure there is no. I ordered a brake line kit to rework that main line so it is lower than the master cylinder fluid but it wont be here till next week. I wasn't able to source one locally. The front Brembo's have speed bleeders on them so theoretically it should allow air out and not let anything back in. I will rebleed the system and when the kit shows up I will redo that line. **fingers crossed** hopefully it works.