Jjtxaz24
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Posts posted by Jjtxaz24
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5 hours ago, BK said:
This is from pulling the box out last year to change a clutch on the white 32. Zoom in and youll see how its bolted to the flat bracket on the left to stop it rotating or slipping off.
This jack and bracket combination has removed and reinstalled GTR boxes on this section of concrete more times than I care to remember, nothing fancy required.
Got any other pics of this bracketry? It looks like you just boxed up the bottom of the trans so it doesn't roll using the trans mount bolt holes and those on the rear.
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8 hours ago, BK said:
It's actually quite easy once you've done it a few times and have the right gear. It's all about having the correct upward angle on the floor jack mounting, you don't need to rotate anything. You need to make up bracketry to bolt the transmission to though, do not rely on it sitting on the jack as that just won't work.
One thing that is a must is to undo the engine mounts so the engine tilts rearward to suit your upward jack angle.
No friggen way I'd ever do that.
Awesome, do you undo the engine mounts off the block or is from the frame so the engine can rock back?
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Hey guys, I was looking to see if you all could shed some light on installing the R32 GTR. I currently don't have any help available and all the videos I've seen is how to remove it.
I had to replace the clutch and I have been having a hell of a time getting it back in. I am doing this in the garage and the car is on jack stands so that alone makes it harder. I do have a transmission jack and another low-profile jack.
I have read that you have to rotate it clockwise for the starter bump to clear the firewall then once it slides in you can rotate it back and tighten it up (writing that out sounds a lot easier said than done, lol)
Appreciate any help you can give. Frustrated seeing it on jack stands and not having the motivation to get it done because every time I do I end up failing at it.
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On 7/4/2022 at 10:47 PM, Duncan said:
Mantic are totally legit, they are a performance sub brand of one of the big Australian manufacturers (clutch industries perhaps? I can't remember). I've also found them good for questions if you have any
Why pay GTR tax if you don't need to?
Awesome. Thank you Duncan. I'll be ordering from them. They got some good prices.
Edit: Went ahead and ordered their stage 2, gonna need the rest of the "while I'm in there parts" free shipping so thats a plus.
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On 6/30/2022 at 7:38 PM, BK said:
I have an NPC push sprung centre ceramic single for sale now from the white 32 that holds over 400kw if you want.
What's the price with shipping to 40121?
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On 6/30/2022 at 7:41 PM, GTSBoy said:
Why are you hesitant? Have you heard the bad things about their clutches?
'Twere me, I'd just do what I actually did do, which is buy a suitable upgrade clutch from ACS/Xtreme. There are other Ozzie options too.
Hesitant because of the price (its very well priced). I haven't heard anything bad about them, but I just wanted to ask you all since it was recommended here and you've had these cars around way longer.
I have seen ACS/Xtreme and that was another company I was leaning towards. Their price is about what I've seen other clutches priced at.
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On 6/30/2022 at 3:04 PM, r32-25t said:
If leaving it stock is your intention either fit a stock clutch or at most a heavy duty organic
Well stock isn't the intention, I'd like to eventually add some power adders, but at this time it is relatively stock due to the GTR tax 😆.
I checked out mantic and they got some good prices, but I'm hesitant.
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On 11/24/2020 at 12:57 AM, oktaytrz said:
Hey mate,
Mantic does pretty good clutch packages for Nissan's now days.
Sorry to kick up an old thread, but I'm in the market for a clutch now. Went through this site and I saw the stage 2 was cheaper than stage 1. Overall the prices are really good and I just wanted to know if the company is legit.
I was looking to get some what of an OEM+ clutch. Power is near stock and don't forsee me putting more into it.
Appreciate the response and assistance.
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On 6/17/2022 at 5:58 PM, Duncan said:
Anyway...I've not seen/heard that before but something is pretty unhappy there.
Have you changed the oil lately, and were there any metallic flakes? Also, if you push the clutch in with someone watching under the bonnet, does the harmonic balancer move back and forward at all?
I have not driven it enough to change the oil, but I can. Short answer. No, I haven't. I will need to give the harmonic balancer a once over.
I'm confused as well, it idles fine. Only when I press the clutch init drops RPMs like that.
If it helps any I have now deleted both the brake booster and clutch booster, and both vacuum sources have been plugged.
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Hey guys, just recently started having this issue where I press the clutch in and my RPMs drop. I thought the clutch booster was old and the diaphram inside it was torn so I did a clutch booster delete, swapped in a new clutch master and slave and plugged the vacuum source that came off the intake plenum that the clutch booster was using.
Car still bogging when I press in the clutch.
Aside from that I also have a "chirping" noise at idle, but it wasnt as bad as it is now. It was just every once in a while. I suscpect its the throw out bearing, and of course the "clutch chatter" when the clutch pedal is fully engaged, but I've had that ever since I got the car.
Here's a link of what it does when I press the clutch in.
Any help is much appreciated it. Thanks in advance.
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On 10/23/2021 at 8:48 PM, GTSBoy said:
I would suggest that you stop doing what you are doing and take the car to an auto-electrician. I don't think replacing the alternator was likely to be the correct response to what appears to be a wiring problem elsewhere.
The likelihood that we can diagnose what the real problem is across the internet is, on all previous evidence, f**k all.
The alternator was replaced because I've had another Nissan do the same thing. Dash and all accessories go out, but car still turns over and runs. Verdict was a bad alternator. I took the same approach with this one only instead of sticking with the same 80-90 amp alternator I upgraded it to a 140 amp.
That's the problem with owning pre-owned cars. You never know what the previous owner did/hacked up.
I figured this would be the along the lines of the replies I'd get though. Thanks for the help.
I'm open to other suggestions or recommendations. I appreciate the help in advance.
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Hey guys. I got a question. My old alternator (stock 80 amp) I felt was going out (dash cluster, lights,windows, mirrors would all stop working - car still turned on and worked just no accessories intermittently) I replaced it with a 140 amp alternator and the black wire on my fusible link got super hot and seemed to be melting the wire so I immediately shut it off.
I ordered a stock replacement, shown below but it won't be in for a little bit (coming from Japan)
in the mean time I replaced that highlighted wire in the first picture (fusible link) with a 10 gauge (30 amp) wire. It still feels warm to touch but not hot like the old smaller wire (IDK what size gauge it was maybe a 16 or something)
My question is is the fusible link feeling warm to touch bad? What size gauge is the stock wire? I read that a fusible link is supposed to be smaller to protect the main wire it's linked too.
Appreciate the help.
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On 10/8/2021 at 2:42 AM, GTSBoy said:
No-one ever expects the Spanish Inquisition!
Lol. Sure don't.
On 10/8/2021 at 2:52 AM, Duncan said:well...I did say it wasn't plugged in....
Yes, yes you did. Appreciate it.
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On 10/7/2021 at 11:41 PM, BK said:
FFS, Are you kidding me ?!!!!!
They shoved the vacuum line onto the throttle return spring retainer rod didn't they - in the top left. Correct ???
Was they actually you ? 😁
Always good when fixes are easy and just stupid shit.
Lol. Yeah top left... They did and I swear it wasn't me. It was me that assumed they knew what they were doing and trusted they clamped it to the balance tube. (I knew where the hose needed to go, just didn't check to see if it was actually there, it wasn't) it was driving me crazy because there was only one way it works. That's probably why Duncan stopped replying, lol.
Anywho, all is well and she is good to go. Still got some other little maintenance stuff to take care of but I want to be able to drive her for a little while before winter gets harsh around here so no major upgrades any time soon. Need to save up money for a haltech and some cams. I have a nistune but no one here can tune me up with that.
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Ok so I will be the first to admit that I made an ass of myself for assuming someone else knew what they were doing.
Issue is fixed. Guy never plugged the vacuum line to the balance tube nipple. It was in the general area (on the throttle body rod assembly, in his defense it does look like a nipple lol) unplugged everything in frustration and realized it was never plugged in.
Issue is resolved. GTR is good to go. Thanks for your help guys. Sincerely mean that.
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Any other advice? Still haven't figured this out.
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On 10/4/2021 at 4:31 PM, Duncan said:
Not plugging it in ......there's your problem!
The vacuum hoses is plugged in. Car runs great now. Only issue I have is the no boost gauge.
Not sure which one you're referring to when you said not plugged in.
I followed GTSboys advice and unplugged all the vacuum lines that I showed in the picture and only left the blue one (from the balance tube) to the stock boost gauge sensor. Didn't get any feedback on the gauges when I was in boost on a drive.
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I removed all the vacuum lines (to the stock and aftermarket boost gauge) and left the one from the back of the balance tube (blue line) and plugged that in directly to the stock sensor. Nothing. Stock gauge stayed in the middle. I unplugged the pig tail from the stock sensor and in doing so it let the stock gauge turn off as if the car was off and the needle dropped. So there is a signal going to it.
It has been sitting for a little while, and before it went down I was able to get a signal/read out on both gauges. Issue was I forgot to plug in the vacuum line in back of the balance tube and couldn't figure out why i was hitting a wall (oversight on my end.)
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On 10/2/2021 at 9:54 PM, GTSBoy said:
Diagnostics 1 0 1.
Unplug all those lines.
Run one line from the plenum source to ONE of the sensors.
See what happens.
Rinse, repeat.
Check. Will do tomorrow. It's pretty late here and I called it a night.
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On 10/2/2021 at 7:55 PM, Duncan said:
Where does the black line from the bottom of the 2nd t piece go?
That runs into the back of my greddy gauge on my A pillar.
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This one stays at 0
this one goes to zero when I start it.
Here's the stock boost sensor and an aftermarket one. The aftermarket one isn't hooked up so I'm not worried about that. The blue line goes to the balance tube where the boost signal is grabbed from.
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On 10/2/2021 at 6:59 PM, joshuaho96 said:
Are they pinned at the minimum level or are you saying they read atmospheric? If it's the first then I would trace the power and ground. If it's the latter make sure the vacuum line is hooked up properly.
Gauges just read 0/neutral spot where they land if the car is off. They don't move at all. I found a torn vacuum line leading to my aftermarket greddy analog gauge. And just replaced it ziptied and made sure all lines were tight and good to go. Still nothing.
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Good news is I was able to bleed the system, used a vacuum bleeder and took about 10-12 minutes on both rear calipers, There was lots of air. Fronts were good to go. I had speed bleeders on the brembos so took like 3 pumps and they were good.
Current new issue is my stock and aftermarket boost gauges aren't reading anything. They stay at 0 at all times.
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On 9/29/2021 at 7:51 PM, Duncan said:
Yep, so the reason I asked that is vacuum and pressure bleed can be more reliable, manual bleed you can make errors (eg allowing pedal to retract before bleeder is closed, or not using hose to ensure only fluid gets pulled back in, or simply not flushing enough fluid through to clear out all bubbles because it is such a painful process......)
Maybe I can try and vacuum/pressure bleed them before I redo the line to make sure there is no. I ordered a brake line kit to rework that main line so it is lower than the master cylinder fluid but it wont be here till next week. I wasn't able to source one locally.
The front Brembo's have speed bleeders on them so theoretically it should allow air out and not let anything back in. I will rebleed the system and when the kit shows up I will redo that line. **fingers crossed** hopefully it works.
R32 GTR Trans install
in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Posted
So clutch is installed and it's all up and running.
Issue: car shifts into gears no problem when it's off. When it's on, it wont go in. I got it to go in but it was a struggle. Didn't try again.
Any advice.