Jjtxaz24

Dam that is a good catch. I wasn't sure if that mattered or not but I feel that you are right. I can see if I can rework it. The guy at the shop built the lines and that's how he set em up i just gave him a diagram of how everything should be routed. He said he would bleed the brakes manual. So I'm assuming 2 people. One pumps the brakes and holds pedal down, the other cracks the line, fluid pushes out then bleeder is closed. Rinse and repeat.

Duncan, Here are a few pictures of the current changes and set up. I never had an ABS module on it when I got it. Let me know if this helps. Break down (hope it's not too confusing) They are color coded to the description.

Hey guys, I hope you are all doing well. Seeking your wisdom on something that has me puzzled. The OEM brake booster on my GTR was bad. So I decided why not clean up the bay and get something new in there in place of it. I replaced it with a Wilwood Brake Booster Delete Kit (PN 260-10375) - I looked up the stock specs on a r32 GTR (non SpecV) and found that it is a 25.4 mm (1 ") bore size. I sourced a STAINLESS STEEL 4 WAY BRAKE UNION and STAINLESS STEEL 4 WAY BRAKE UNION to put it all together. There we some fittings that were needed as well but overall it is installed and front and rear have been bled. No matter how many times I bleed it and make sure there is no air in the system. The brake pedal is soft, if I pump the brakes it'll get firm but then go soft again. Definitely not able to drive around at all at regular speeds. The guy at the shop that installed it and has my car (I been really busy with school and work and decided to have someone take a go at it) cant get it to work. He suggest to find the stock brake booster new or have my old one rebuilt. At this point I agree. I don't know what else it could be. You all have any info or insight? Pending your advice and help.

Still need some help guys cars been sitting and I never figured out the issue, also got busy with school and work. I went through and found a pic of before I put it back together. I thought maybe I f**ked up the rear vacuum lines and I scoured the internet for some references found a few and they seem right. As well as this vacuum line diagram. Im more worried about the rear lines as they would be a little more difficult to reach with the intake on. Here's how I think they go using the diagram... Initially I did have the front green and blue lines crossed. I flipped em and I still had the same issue. That's what made me think I flipped something in the rear of that coolant return/vacuum tube.

Built a boost leak tester and happy to say that I don't have any leaks. I was kind of wishing I did and fix this issue. Got around to cleaning off any dirt and grime from the coils. I also did the ohm test to see if they are good. When I ohmed them out it read 0. I checked all 6 and they all said the same thing. FSM says .6-.9 ohms is ideal. Mine read 0. I changed the plugs to brand new ones and plugged everything back up. Fired it up and I pulled the pig tail off the coils individually. I can hear the RPM drop so thats a good indicator the coils are working. I put my ear on a long screwdriver to the injectors and I can hear the clicking. Went for a drive and same issue. It feels and drives terrible. Things I did was change all the coolant lines, replaced the vacuum lines. I had previously blocked the lines off that led to charcoal canister. I went over my vacuum lines and I had these circled ones crossed. I undid them and got em right. Same issue. Car ran and drove fine before I yanked the intake off to replace the coolant lines and while I was down there vacuum lines I did also clean up the AAC valve. I didnt take off the brass plug i just used the electric cleaner through the little hole and shook that out, and screwed out the idle adjustment screw to clean that out then out it back. Not sure what else to do guys. Need your help.

I swapped back my stock coils, ignitor and same issue. When I pulled the plugs they looked like the car is running rich (it is). Tomorrow I'm gonna look into building a boost leak tester. I was thinking removing the MAFs, cap one and use the other to feed air and pressurize the system. Will that work? Found this link here: https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/gtr-boost-leak-tester-diy.174597/ but unsure where hes feeding air into from the compressor. Is there a relearn these cars need to go through once you change the gaskets out? Any help is appreciated, I'm at my wit's end with this car. Its always something.

Got it all buttoned up, and I think I may have used a little to much throttle coat. Throttle feels a little sticky. I didn't mess with any adjustments at all so thats the only other variable. Other issue I'm having is that under load around 4k (so when I'm in boost) it feels like it hits a wall and it just falls on its face, and bogs down to almost dying and then gets back up to the idle of ~950 Prior to tearing it apart I'd have break up in the upper RPMs like around 6-7k but nothing how I'm feeling now. I was told by some buddies it could be a tune issue. I have the LS coils in it. I could swap back to the old coils. I havent checked the plugs yet but I'm assuming they're gonna show the cars running rich, cuz it is.

I was able to figure out where it went. Hope I did the Throttle coat right, we'll find out soon. Hoping to get it started this week.

I was able to get the throttle coat and applied it. Started to assemble it and ran into this here. Its the water bypass tube. I can't find in the manual where the nipple with the coolant hose goes to.

So in the event I am not able to get this from overseas is there a good alternate? Bought from 1 spot in the UK and they said they wont ship to the US because customs dont like to allow these type of products to cross, so they refunded me the money. I ordered from an Australian company (high octane racing) and waiting for them to send me the shipping quote, but I already ordered the Throttle coat. Shits expensive for what it is and the 1 use I'm gonna get out of it.

Will do.

Yeah, I used the electric cleaner, a micro fiber towel, and a soft bristle tooth brush. Nothing crazy, but I would hate to have to take this all off again to fix this. I saw a picture on the tomei site it coats the butterfly valve outer surface.

Anything posted in the last 30 years no longer has valid links or pictures lol.

When I posted this I started searching and found that some who cleaned them and rebuilt engines had zero issues while others had a high idle. I ended up ordering it. So well see when it comes in. I didn't use a carb cleaner I used a cleaner thats safe on electrical connections since its all I had on hand. I dont see any current tutorials on applying that coat do i just open the butterfly valves and coat the sides with it then let em close?

So I got around to cleaning up the intake side because I had to replace some coolant hoses, and I asked a buddy if he cleaned his throttle bodies when he replaced his gaskets he said he didn't and you're not supposed to because of a seal nissan puts from the factory around the butterfly valves. Well, I cleaned em and now what? I don't wanna slap it together and have idle issues.

Shit, my bad. Its for a 91 GTR.

Yeah, not looking for OEM. I was just gonna order bout 2-3 feet or so of various sizes.

Hey guys, pulled the intake plenum off to replace some coolant hoses and ended up having to replace a coolant tube located under the intake. While I'm in there I ordered a starter, the coolant hose kit, and the intake gaskets and such. Looking to order the vacuum lines as well. Looked through the FSM and didn't see any sizes on the hoses. Looked on google and ran into a variety of em ranging from 4mm-8mm. Any info is greatly appreciated.

Awesome, thank you. I saw the paper gaskets. ended up just ordering some Tomei gaskets. $20 for the intake manifold and $60 for the others ones that requires 6. i will use that to order some gasket i need for one of the pipes on the turbo thought. great site. bookmarked.

Just ordered that kit, thanks Duncan. It makes me feel better about doing this 1 time. Now I gotta find some gaskets for the intake manifold.

I'm trying to find a heater and coolant hose kit so I can replace them all at once and be done with it. I found a kit by HPS but the black is out of stock and I dont really wanna do red or blue color. I've seen this Autobahn88 kit around but unsure if I were to do all the work to swap em and replace em if I'll have to redo it cuz the quality would be garbage. I dont wanna order each hose individually cuz I feel that would be expensive and time consuming to find each hoses part number. Appreciate the help guys

I made some calls and after a couple of days of trying to find someone local to do it for me I had no luck. I ended up using a dremel to flatten the previous progress I did (it was drilling kind offset), and ended up ordering some reverse drill bits, then used the ez out previously and bolt came right out. I took my other bolt, and it screwed right in and was able to torque it down. Heres a pic of the bolt that's snapped with a regular one: I tried to line them up as best as possible. The threads seem good on the head so I dont think I need the helicoil kit (I'm still waiting on bolts and I did order the helicoil kit just in case). The manual says to use 6.7-8.7 ft lbs of torque and I think the first time I did it around 8 ft lbs. I'm gonna be doing it around 7lbs maybe 7.5lbs to allow for that +/- 4% variable. What you guys think? I'll be going back to my OEM cams.

I looked online in my area for a mobile thread repair guy cuz that was a great idea and I didn't find one. I'll make a call to a friend and maybe he can help me out. If it goes south, I think this kit will work. It's an M6 x 1.0 bolt. https://www.google.com/shopping/product/296852226159252192?q=m6+helicoil+kit&client=ms-android-verizon&biw=412&bih=718&tbs=vw:l,ss:44&sxsrf=ALeKk01qXpOSKB90LjEsZI0_MzuiZwJFwg:1589439191304&prds=epd:16865377650706785995,cdl:1,prmr:1,cs:1

So as you guys know nothing's ever easy on this f**king car, started to try and take out the broken bolt and having no luck. I tried to center it with a punch as best as I could and drilled into it to use an EZ out and not going well. Ended up off center and I got frustrated so I stopped. In the event I end up f**king it up. Do you guys know the the thread pitch these bolts have. I think it's an M6 but unsure what pitch it has. Pre planning the next step. Have you all used a helicoil?

I think slapping in the stock cams will get her up and running which makes me happy. My next question is what's the easiest way to get my cams off without taking all the front belts and accessories off. I read through a thread that said to ziptie the belt and cam gears up and slide the old cam out and new ones in. I'm assuming I'd have to loosen the timing belt tensioner and to reach that I have to take off the lower cover and pull off the balancer.