Jjtxaz24
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Posts posted by Jjtxaz24
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1 hour ago, Old man 32 GTR said:
When I did my head the shop upgraded the cam cap studs to Tomei items. Might be a good idea since one has let go.
and yes, Rams head service are a reputable shop, they are the ones that serviced my headI saw the tomei ones, but I didnt wanna spend that much on them and I feel OEM should be good enough. After talking to some friends and stressing over this I feel that one bolt may have been over torqued.
We have a shop here in the USA and its know for having cheap "affordable" tools. I used a torque wrench I got from there. That is the only thing I can think of as to why that one bolt would snap near the head.
I'm gonna order another torque wrench only this one I'm looking for is gonna be in inch lbs not foot lbs and hopefully have a better accuracy. The current one I had was a +/- 4% tolerance on the accuracy.
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https://www.ramsheadservice.com.au/product/nissan-rb26-genuine-cam-cap-bolts-kit-nis001/
Is this a legit company out there in Australia? They seem to have OEM bolts for a good price, but it seems to good to be true sorta speak.
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I used as thin,paper clip and checked it I could rod the oil squirter and it slid in and out. How deep are they supposed to be? It did go in 25.5mm. I guess I can take off another cap end and check that one.
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16 minutes ago, Duncan said:
Cam cap bolt is 13058-56E00.
however....it's probably not that simple. #6 valves were closed when the pistons were going uppy downy. there is an oil feed all through there that will have shredded steel and aluminium in it, the cam's tunnel is probably damaged/worn etc etc
I would chuck a cam in, do an oil and filter change and see what happens but I don't like your chances
I will put the stock cams in when I extract that broken bolt out.
14 minutes ago, Duncan said:Oh, also, why would 1 bolt snap and was it the cause or effect of an issue. Best reason for a bolt to snap is that it was over torqued which means every other cam bolt is suspect. I'd replace the set, ARP do aftermarket that may be cheaper than Nissan (not sure, I've never checked). Alternatively, if there was an oil feed problem to the back that could seize and therefore break the cam.
At least post up a pic of the journals under the broken cam.
I promise they were not over torqued. I triple checked em and went in torque sequence. I know for a fact they were at the torque spec they were supposed to be.
Let me take a picture of that for you.
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Started doing a leak down test and decided what the hell, let me take off the valve covers. Here's what I found:
A bolt snapped off:
And both together:
So I still have my stock cams. I'm gonna take the bolt out and replace it. My end cap still seems good. Then toss the stock cams back in till I can replace them with better cams or just leave em stock.
Any idea what the bolt PN is?
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6 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:
No. Just need to put it in neutral. If you put a wire on the starter solenoid you may (or may not) be able to inch the motor around. If you take all the plugs out you may (or may not) be able to turn the engine by the fanbelt if you can hold it on the fan. Otherwise yes, spanner.
Alright, I'll give it a try tomorrow.
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2 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:
If there is a straight line from the plughole to the piston you can try this: Remove the plug and put something in the hole that will stick out of the top. Turn the engine over by hand until you observe tdc and then see the piston starting to go down again. Then use a strong (probably wooden) stick and try to push the piston down. If it moves appreciably without the engine turning you have a problem.
I can try that. It takes me like 5 minutes to take off all coils, wiring harness and plugs.
I'll need to take the fan off and out the way to have access to the crank bolt and I can turn it over by hand and see if that works. I'm assuming (brains not working anymore) I need to jack up the car on all 4 corners? Havent done that yet.
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1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:
Ok, so.....ponder how the gudgeon pin might be f**ked, or something else that permits the piston to jump up further than it is supposed to and contact the plug (and simultaneously make a noise!)....etc.
Guess the only way to figure out is to pull the engine out and tear it down. Not something I wanted to do but most of all troubleshooting has been exhausted on my end and it keeps pointing to pulling the engine.
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9 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
The question will be, if the current plug tip is black, why is the piston crown carrying fresh, shiny witness marks?
That is a very good question. I got a little close with the camera trying to gauge the distance I was at. Not enough or hard enough to remove any carbon or anything though.
So if the plugs have just been fouled, not missing any pieces.
This problem is driving me insane. I still gotta rule out the boost/vacuum/pressure leak.
I really dont wanna pull the intake and turbos off to get the head off. I'm moving in a few months so if it's an extensive fix it's just gonna sit on the back burner till I relocate and get settled in the new house.
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24 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:
The only sure way to eliminate boost leaks is by pressurizing the system . You can't tell if a joint is leaking just by looking at it and often boost leaks occur out of sight.
Ok so I'll have to get a hold of a compressor and try to do that boost leak test.
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9 minutes ago, BK said:
Yes, yes it does. I've had 2 failed engines in the past from losing the spark plug ground electrode and it did exactly this.
Ever lost one of the plug tips in the past ?
The last plug I changed on cylinder 6 was still in tact, since owning the car I've never had this issue till now and when i pull that plug (about 2 weeks ago) and this one one now they were still in tact just really black.
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Alright update time.
Installed the split fire coils and fired it up - same issue.
Installed his injectors and left the spitfires installed - same issue.
I took off coils and took out plugs and took a look inside the cylinders:
That's what it looked like inside the cylinders.
The plug in 6 was black again, I read I could gap em at 1.1 (oem gap size) when I put em in new so I did that and it drove fine. I brought em in closer to .8 just now and fired it up. Same issue - The plugs I'm running are BCPR7EIX.
I downloaded a vacuum diagram for the RB and traced my lines. They are still on and none are lose. I used some soapy water and sprayed down the rubber lines and no bubbles. I don't have a compressor though so I cant pressurize the system.
Here's another a video as it sits with the troubleshooting listed above: when I unplug cylinder 6 coil ticking stops, if the vacuum line is not hooked up to the balance pipe it's a lot louder. All plugged up its fairly quite but still misfiring.
here's my boost gauge and wideband at idle:
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I was able to source/borrow some splitfire coilpacks and stock injectors that I'll use tomorrow to see if my set up is garbage and toast.
If my friends known working Injectors and coils still produce the same issue then I guess we chase down vacuum leaks. After that I might just LS swap it and be done with it. Lol.
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9 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Externally venting? You know we're going to point to that as a significant risk to the satisfactory running of your engine. The factory ECU can only handle so much shit done against it.
Yeah it's an HKS BOV. It doesn't get recirculated. The engine is pretty much stock other than some tomei pon cams. I installed em about 1k miles ago and hadnt had any issues with the car aside from some early on (last year) bad coil, ignitor and wiring harness and overheating (bad thermostat and fan clutch and radiator) lot of maintenance has been done to get it as a good DD.
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13 minutes ago, Duncan said:
Right back to the start of the thread, I think you've just got a boost leak.
Check all the big hose clamps between the airbox and the plenum including under the front bar, and also the medium sized stuff in the BOV fittings and their return line. Also check the BOV return (plastic) for big cracks. Potentially but less likely, you may have other smaller vacuum line problems
I've got an aftermarket BOV in there. I'm sure the small plastic piece that runs behind the intercooler I blocked it off and removed the stock twin BOV.
I'll check the clamps to make sure they're all seated.
I appreciate the help. I'm really at a loss and this gives me some direction.
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13 minutes ago, Duncan said:
Big red arrow to square box is the factory MAP sensor, just runs the factory boost gauge. Small red arrow thing on the right is aftermarket but probably for aftermarket boost control.
yes, green arrow should plug into back of manifold balance pipe, if it was off that is a problem. It is a crappy hose on a crappy fitting with no lip so it is easy to blow it off under boost, small cable tie can help
Ok, well that helps. Thank you.
When I plugged that hose to the manifold balance pipe it quite down the clicking but it was still there and still misfiring. I'll clean that nipple off and slide that back on and zip tie it.
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I cleaned all the injectors out and placed them all back in. Im still having the same issue. I found a hose that I think goes plugged into the back near where the Fuel rail is. I looked over the vacuum diagram and its not on there. Here's some pics. I tried to make it as clear as possible as to not get you all confused:
I plugged in the hose while it was running and it seemed to lower the sound of the clicking but I can still hear it and it is still misfiring.
What is the little block on the firewall (has the red arrow pointing at it) that has the vacuum lines tee'd off to my boost gauge and (what i think is) the boost sensor (it did have an after market boost controller, currently unplugged).
Im hurting here... lol, cant seem to figure this out and its kicking my ass. I dont just wanna start throwing parts at it.
The LS COILS and harness is not on, Im still using the stock harness and coils.
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On 4/25/2020 at 11:27 PM, Ben C34 said:
That ignition code comes up when there is an ignition issue obviously, but it also comes up when you change to ls coils. The error needs to be turned off, but it doesn't cause any problems at all.
Still havent had time to put the injectors back in. I tested them all and they are reading at 2.7 ohms, then i put power to them I can hear them clicking. I was going to make a DIY injector cleaning thing but I havent. Im pretty sure the injectors are good.
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Didn't have much time to troubleshoot but I got the fuel rail off and checked the Injectors. I did an ohm test and all 6 were at 2.7 ohms, before I took em out I checked all 6 with a stethoscope and I can hear them clicking.
I need to rig up an injector system to clean them out. Minus well since they're already out.
Anything else I can check?
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8 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:
That difference doesn't look enough for bent valves.
In case you haven't already looked it up 21 is ignition signal and 22 is fuel pump.
Have you thought of swapping the no 6 injector to a different location?
No, it's a good difference between cylinders. Car was compression checked cold so maybe after a warmup itd be a little higher.
I hadnt been able to find the codes. I got frustrated and gave up on it. Tomorrow I'll swap that injector to another location and hope I dont break em in doing so.
*apologize for the pics being so big I came back to repost a better picture of all 6 in one but it didnt let me edit the post anymore.
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On 4/14/2020 at 10:25 PM, GTSBoy said:
Take the coil and plug out and look for evidence of arcing. You could have a spark leak in there, which could make that click, and of course would feel like a misfire. Clean it all up and maybe try swapping coil to another cylinder to see if it follows.
It is VERY unlikely that you would have bent a valve. The cam profiles are reasonably gentle, the valve springs are good for very high revs, and there isn't a history of it being a problem on stockish RB26s.
If you have done any damage that has "dropped a valve" it would be more likely that that you had a lean event or pinging that damaged the valve or seat, leading to noise and misfire.
I got around to taking off the coils and harness. replaced it with the LS coils and the harness. the issue was the same. The old plug in cylinder 6 was all black. The other 5 were nice and clean.
I ran a compression test and I had the following numbers:
I ended up swapping back to the stock coils and wiring harness and the issue still persisted. I connected to Nistune and there was an error to check my CAS. I cleared it and it popped up again. Cleared it once more and clicked on Self Learn on Nistune and it hasnt come back but the car is still not running as it should.
there was I think 21 and 22 in there as faults. I cant remember as I cleared them and they havent come back up.
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So I think I might have bent some valves. I havent troubleshooted it yet but I wanted to get your thoughts on it. Happened later in the day and I leave out of town for work tomorrow.
The video isn't much of a visual more of a sound clip. When I unplug cylinder 6 I can hear the clicking stop. When I plug it back in it comes back. I can feel it by the throttle cable.
I was merging onto a road and got on it. Nothing different from other days. Went from 2nd to 3rd and then I felt it lose power, I didn't wanna force it so I limped it home and stayed out of boost with cylinder 6 coil unplugged. Felt and sounded like a misfire (something I've been working on and off with [bad coils]) I had it sorted it out before all this and it was running good. I was gettin it tuned this week.
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3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
If you have Nistune, then just look at the feedback gauges. O2 sensor needs to be flicking between nearly 0v and nearly 1v every second or so, to be in closed loop. If it's not, then there is probably something wrong with your O2 sensor, or a moron has turned off feedback!
Sounds easy enough. I'll give it a look later today.
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It had and I changed out the coil a fixed the issue.
I have some ls2 coils but havent put em in yet because I dont know how to change the dwell time.
How do I check it's in closed loop? I do have a nistune, with software and the cable to look at the ECU.
R32 GTR RB26DETT
in General Maintenance
Posted
Then the bolts were just old? Either way damage is done. Trying to prevent it from happening again.
So new OEM bolts and use a different torque wrench. I guess.