Jjtxaz24
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Posts posted by Jjtxaz24
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Those "spider assemblies" on the front can go either way right? There's not a particular direction they slide in?
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3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
New wheels may well sound different.
As to the leak tester.....just block both turbo inlets as you would on a single. You can't leak test from the MAFs inwards, because there's a lot of connections between the turbo inlet pipes and the crankcase.
I think that may be it. Bit paranoid never had a turbo car before. Always NA with nitrous, I wanna make sure I tidy her up and get her tuned. Shes ideling at a 15.6-15.8 when shes warm. Thought that was a little high.
1 hour ago, Duncan said:The traditional japanese method involves a 1kg fire extinguisher in one inlet at the AFM, and an oil filter with no internals and a hole drilled in the top for the pressure source
Those japs are crazy. I'm gonna see what I can whip up to do the same.
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I looked online and couldn't find a way to make a boost leak tester for the stock RB26 turbo layout.
I was thinking caping one of the MAFs and using the other as the one to allow me to pressurize the system. Trying to make sure I'm good before I go and dial her in on a dyno with a tune.
Another question... I rebuilt the internals on the stock turbos and had em balanced and I do build boost as I was before but now I hear them spool up inside the cabin. Sounds kinda like a jet engine type sound. That normal? Just making sure.
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I have a spare harness that i will be using to get the new one that i ordered set up to make it a plug and play. I get the main harness is the coils and power, what is the 2nd one on here for (circled in red). On the current loom that's in the car. it looks like a black wire, which I'm assuming is Ground and 2 white wires. On this wiring specialties harness below it only shows 2 wires... I tried to look it up in the Manual and didnt find anything relevant to what it is.
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20 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:
I would check when you can in Nistune to see the AAC Valve live value at warm idle, make sure you have some range both above and below or you might have idle issues.
As the documentation suggests you want to change the dwell vs voltage values and not much else. In theory you could probably leave them stock but you won't realize the benefit from them.
I read and looked through the documents for Nistune but unsure as to what to change the values to to get the recommended 3.4 sec change.
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On 1/30/2020 at 10:48 PM, joshuaho96 said:
Generally speaking you should only adjust the idle adjustment screw if you have Consult readout to log the AAC valve duty cycle. I believe recommended target is 35-40% in warm idle.
Looking through the manual it states 950 so that's what I left it as.
Any of you guys ever use the LQ9 coil upgrade kit from CX Racing. Picked that up this weekend and it isnt a plug n play harness. I sent em an email but they wont respond till during the week.
Also, need help in changing the dwell time to adjust for the new LS2/LQ9 coils. Havent installed it yet. Might order the plug and play harness that wiring specialties sells for that conversion.
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2 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:
The ECU sets the idle target. If you haven't disabled this function in consult the ECU will be fighting you the whole way. The manual spec is 950 so it will open up the AAC and adjust timing to get to 950 rpm.
Ok, so 950 it is then. I just felt like it was idling to high.
I havent made any changes to it just yet.
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Ok, little update. I ended up ordering a kit that will remove the ignitor and bring my coils to modern times. They are the LS2/LQ9 coils.
I have a Nistune ECU and it was advised through articles and forums to change the dwell time down to a 4.3. I looked through the nistune software guides and all I found was this:
Also, I tried to bring the idle down threw the screw located in the passenger side think it's called the AAC. it's the idle adjustment screw. I tightened it and lowest idle I got it down to was 925-950 rpms. The manual says the RB idles at 950 but I've read through the forums it likes to be at 600-800. That's why I tried to lower it.
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16 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
New genuine (not fake!) OEM coils are a good choice. Splitfires are the only aftermarket same-form-factor coilpack that I would consider.
But seriously - these days, Audi R8 (or equivalent) coils or R35 GTR coils are the way to go. If you need to replace coilpacks it is foolish to stick with 35 year old tech when 1 year old tech is available, 11ty times better and only slightly more expensive to put in place. Good coils are only $50 each these days, whereas the stockers and Splitfires are still up around $100 each.
Then you can get rid of the ignitor too.
Put the effort into making it better, not same.
As to the rest of the ignition system. You probably need to put a scope onto the CAS signal to see if it is messy or not. The Nissan ECU at least manages to punch through a lot of the crap that the CAS puts out (better than most aftermarket ECUs seem able to), but there is still a limit. At the least you should make sure that the bearings aren't stuffed, the wiring connections are good, etc.
A high rpm miss can also be a shortage of fuel. What do you know about the health of all that stuff?
I see your point. The maintenance I'm doing is to upgrade to new tech and also allow me to drive it, it is not a daily driver but I enjoy using it. Being the only source of income makes that a bit difficult. Not to worry though, it makes sense on upgrading the coils and getting rid of the ignitor. It was a route I had considered and was looking more into I just wasnt there financially yet.
As I was rebuilding the turbos I cleaned out the coolant and oil lines, replaced all the gaskets both cooper ones and for the piping as well as cleaned out and in some instances replaced some banjo bolts cuz they were just old and had tons of build up. My coolant temps stay much better now as before I was pretty high, higher than normal.
Point being, as far as I know the fuel system is decades old, OEM and probably needs a refresh. I could rerun new fuel lines, replace the pump, and clean out the injectors and replace the pigtails as well. I was honestly thinking the cutting out was a fuel issue. Maybe clogged injectors or a few pigtails acting finicky.
Your feedback is appreciated.
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9 minutes ago, BK said:
It's almost a knee jerk response now isn't it, "it's the coils". Most of the time it's true though.
Any good coils that dont require me upgrading the whole ignition system (harness, coils)
14 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:Missing at revs under load should usually be blamed on coils before anything else, and then after that, on just about everything else in the ignition system (coil loom, ignitor, CAS).
The loom is new, so is the ignitor. I did have to replace one coil (company I got the car from sent it out for me and it worked so I've left it)
CAS is OEM on the car. Never changed it. My pig tails on my injectors could use some love.
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Yesterday when I let the car idle after sorting out all the little issues I didnt really hear the "lopeyness" in it. I was expecting it to sound something like this:
I have the same cams and seems like the same mods. Im pretty stock internal wise only mods that i have done is the 3" exhaust, rebuilt the stock turbos with better internals and had them balanced, the Tomei Poncams 262* 9.15 car came with mushroom intake filter, and I added the HKS BOV. not much else engine wise.
Also, I mentioned in my prior post that it seemed like it was breaking up on the higher RPMs, i'm hoping its something as simple as just some fouled plugs so Im gonna change those out today, if not what else do you guys think it can be. I do have a Nistune and can log data if that would help anyone help me.
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Putting it back together sucked, rebuilding the turbos sucked too.
I fired her up and she stumbled at first but once it got going she idled good and sounds good.
Here's turbo 1 after the rebuild:
Here's turbo 2 after the rebuild, I was just using a shop vac to see if had any shaft play or whatnot :
We had to leave my house and go up the street to bleed and burp the air out of the coolant neighbor started complaining it was too loud. The timing belt is a gates so it was a little whiney when we started it. It seems good now
Here's a little backfire:
I'm getting some cut outside when I hit the higher RPMs. I have a fuel filter so I'm gonna change that out, then I'll go to updating the injectors and fuel rail and fuel pump. Another project for another time. I'll enjoy this for now.
Still got more to do on this. Having the front brake calipers powder coated to match the engine bay valve covers and cam cover. I have the rear pads and rotors as well as front pads and rotors.
Need to get new CV boots on there. The other ones popped off that I just replaced not to long ago. I might have not clamped em down tight enough. I'll check it out tomorrow.
Thanks for all the help.
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Im pretty confident the other one is still in there. I did not remove the crankshaft gear and if I had I'd have seen it. I only removed the harmonic balancer.
So when I install it, its gonna be the woodruff key (making sure its firmly in place), then the plate that sits against the crankshaft gear, balancer, spacer and bolt then tighten to specs.
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1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:
There's another key for the gear
Well shit. I dont remember it having one when I pulled the balancer out. I bagged everything as I took it apart and labeled it.
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I just want to triple check. This woodford key doesnt need to slide into the gear sprocket on the camshaft right?
It's just the woodford key, a backplate that will push up against the gear when I slide the harmonic balancer on. If I recall the woodford key holds the harmonic balancer on this slot here.
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8 hours ago, r32-25t said:
The bolt is for the idler, the stud is for the tensioner
Yeah. Ordered both. Tensioner stud is the one I couldnt remove.
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1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:
I wouldn't say they are prone to snapping. They are prone to guys overtorquiing them when changing timing belts then they snap. It's not like a Design flaw or anything
Well in that case. I'll leave it be. Appreciate it. I wont overtighten em. Got a torque wrench and the FSM for bolt specs.
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1 hour ago, Duncan said:
It's just a stud in a thread, but it could be seized. Couple of tricks
-spray well with penetrating oil over a day or 3
-heat often loosens these things, eg a 15sec with a blow torch
-with a nut just protruding, give it a firm hit with a hammer to loosen the threads.
if it is the lock nut coming undone from the 2nd nut you need to tighten them. If you think there is too much force and they still are not turning, try those 3 tricks
I'll give that a try.
53 minutes ago, r32-25t said:Why are you even trying to take it out?
I was advised to change it. So I ordered the bolt and wanted to have it out before the new one got here cuz I guess these are prone to snapping.
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1 hour ago, R.3.2.G.T.R said:
Whilst you at it, change to adjustable cam gears
Ive thought about it. Havent pulled the trigger on em yet though.
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I was advised to change the tensioner bolt and I cant seem to get it off. I tried using 2 nuts to lock one in place with the other and turn it that way and it didnt work.
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So how do I get this tensioner stud out. Tried the 2 nuts on there and things tight. Dont think it's coming off.
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I wanna replace the coolant lines with these. What's the longevity or experience if you all have had any.
If I could replace the hard lines for vacuum, oil and coolant that run to the turbos thatd be cool too. Any recommendations?
These look like a better buy: https://www.ebay.com/p/2274087840
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10 minutes ago, BK said:
Just a tip make sure you are checking with 2 sets of feeler blades from each side as per the manual. A lot of people check just from one side, which is sort of fine, but I have noticed different reading between measuring from one side vs from both sides.
That is correct, that is the method I used/using (feelers from both sides).
On the intake side it is a bit more difficult due to the fuel rail etc still being on.
Exhaust side was a lot easier.
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I checked the ones I can check. The feeler gauges fit just right and slid in. When I tried to go up to the next size up I was forcing it in and it was bending the feeler gauge.
The instructions say to turn the crank. I'm assuming this valve clearance is to be checked when the timing belt is on to make it rotate in firing order and that's how they get checked.
When I tried to rotate the cam itself it felt difficult so I stopped and just set it all back to being timed, guess I have to wait till I get the timing belt on rotate it as a whole with the crank, then I can check em.
R32 GTR RB26DETT
in General Maintenance
Posted
What's the normal ideling AFRs for a pretty stock R32 GTR. It's got intakes, tomei poncams and the rebuilt stock turbos with stock dumps, and 3 in down pipe and exhaust.
Its sitting around 15.4-15.8 at idle when warm.